Confused DC5S owners: Done the research on mods for you ..

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what if your a hero and a wannabe

^^ LOLOLOL

This is one for the king of DC5,TIMMY!

waht type of fujitsubo?

Fujitsubo RM01A ftw.

modding your car you should follow one rule


Do it once, do it right.

so spend the extra cash so it wont haunt you later on. Trust me its worth it

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Originally Posted by burak213

modding your car you should follow one rule


Do it once, do it right.

so spend the extra cash so it wont haunt you later on. Trust me its worth it

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Thats a better write up than the OP.

:thumbsup:

What about tyres, rims, stiffer sway bars, camber kits?

Personally if I was starting my Integra all over again I would go
- Decent coilovers (Tein SS as a minimum, but have heard good things about Tein Basic)
- Thicker/stiffer sway bars front and rear (24mm whiteline)
- Lower offset & wider rims (17x8 +35 as a minimum)
- Wider profile tyres (With 17x8 you can run 225/45)
- VERY good tyres (To many to mention)
- Rear camber kit (You'll need it to fit the tyres in the guards)

And that’s before you even start to worry about any form of engine/intake/exhaust work. If you drive the car right (Into a corner, mid corner, out of the corner) you'll have more then enough power. I’ve found that intake and exhaust mods have more of a placebo effect… in that you can actually hear that the intake/exhaust is louder, so you think that your going faster… when in actual fact you’ve probably only made 1-2kw at the wheels, and its probably no faster then stock.

Personally I found that the above mentioned suspension/wheel modifications gave the best instant results out of everything I've done to the car (Except for K-Pro). The coilovers stiffened the ride, and the swaybars did so even more. Having the wider track, and wider rims/tyres meant that I could hold a higher speed mid corner, and exit the corner faster. I’m currently running Kuhmo KU36 tyres, and I was amazed with their grip, it was truly one of the best mods I’ve done to the car.

Basically, there is no point in having heaps of power, if you can’t get it to the ground.

But like Burak said

Do it once, do it right! If this means you have to save up that extra $1000 to but a decent sent of coilovers (so you can be a “hero/wannabe”), do it. Burak and I use to actually run Eibach springs on stock shocks, we have both changed to coilovers, and both of us agree that there is light and day between the two. When I changed to Tein SS the results were well worth the extra money.

Edit: Also forgot engine mounts as an awesome mod. The inserts work a treat, and for ~$100 they are an awesome mod as the get rid of all axel tramp, meaning you can launch from higher revs!

nice post from the OP, interesting info and good research

what sort of gains do you expect with the headers and exhaust?

having gone that route with a non-Honda car i have to agree that exhaust/intake probably have a larger placebo effect than an actual performance gain. however i have been led to believe by various ozhonda-ites that on a type-r v-tec engine breathing mods can *actually* net a significant performance gain? :confused:

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Originally Posted by Lucas

If you're a hero or a wannabe:
JOIN THE AUSTRALIAN DEFENCE FORCE, that'll straighten you out guaranteed :)

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SATAN wants U for his Army!

Kill someone and your a murderer,kill someone in a war and become a hero :confused:

Good luck with that one bro.

U can be ordered to kill,a servant for your master.

Beeza, if we didnt have these "servants" Australia would have been claimed by the Japanese over 60 years ago.

Anyway, i agree with the guys who believe learning how to drive and correctly set up your suspension is the right plan of attack.

Why have a car that accelerates harder if you still only holding the same cornering speeds as pre-modification? :P

This is well said!

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Originally Posted by RoryAlexander

Beeza, if we didnt have these "servants" Australia would have been claimed by the Japanese over 60 years ago.

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Originally Posted by Lucas

45SET: thanks a lot for the info, but that's why I said Im after STREET fun not full on track performance unless you really need an extra speed "Into a corner, mid corner, out of the corner" while driving on the streets of Brisbane .. !

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I think 45set was just saying that if your driving on the street (solely), your not going to be pushing your car hard enough to notice the gains from I/H/E + piggyback system when compared to the gains given from a good suspension set up. Some of the fun on the street is trying to take certain corners at the speed limit (give or take a little ;] ), and I/H/E wont change your cornering speed..

Each to his own of course, personally i quite like making noise. But how fast i can go in to and out of a corner is very important, in street terms.

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Originally Posted by Lucas

Lithium: up to STEP 3, you get 20KW according to someone we all know.. been working on HONDAs for YEAAAARs.. no need to mention his name because Im not sure if he minds or not.

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ah, thanks - 20kw is an ok gain. what does it do to the torque curve?

having gone that way myself previously (and now knowing better), as you are after a street setup, i think killer wasps probably aren't what you're actually after. for city driving torque is king! sacrificing low to mid-range torque for a free flowing top end will actually make you slower in every day driving :) that said if the factory design is crap, you can occasionally find a set of aftermarket headers/exhaust that can indeed boost torque throughout the rev range. if you've already bought it all i hope the TODA ones are doing that?

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lucas

45SET: thanks a lot for the info, but that's why I said Im after STREET fun not full on track performance unless you really need an extra speed "Into a corner, mid corner, out of the corner" while driving on the streets of Brisbane .. !

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Do you have any mountains near where you live? Go for a drive through the mountains with your car, and "chase" a car with well sorted suspension (Even if its a EK4). It'll pull away from you in the corners, and be able to carry more speed out of them. Even though it might not have anywhere near as much power as your car, because it can carry a higher speed through the corner, It'll be faster.

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Originally Posted by Lucas

RIMS? for the street what's wrong with originals?
TYRES? for the STREET whats wrong with Adrenalines ?
Sway bars? again... the originals are OK for daily driving ..

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Rims: Stock rims are 17x7 +45. The rims I am recommending would be 17x8 +35.

So, for starters the rims are 1' wider then stock, so you'll be able to have a wider tyre on the rim... meaning more contact with the ground. A lower offset pushes the rims out closer to the guard, means that the car actually has a wider track, which means you'll get better traction through corners.

Not sure on how good the Adrenalines are, so I'm not going to comment, but I'm certain there are tyres out there that are better.

Sway bars. The stock ones are hollow, so aren't as stiff as a solid one. I know with the DC5R the sway bars are 22mm stock, and the whiteline ones I have are 24mm. I didn't think there would be much of a differace, but it just made the car that bit more stiff.

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Originally Posted by Lucas

what you're talking about is absolutely correct, but a "next level" upgrades.. track upgrades.. where microseconds count..

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you'll be quicker then a microsecond with the above mods I've suggested... I would hazard a guess at +5 seconds on a track

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Originally Posted by Lucas

AND I said Im NOT an XPERT which means I dont know it all, and I might be all wrong... and Again I appreciate the info..

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Not trying to be rude, but if your not an expert at this, then why are you giving people advice on how to modify their cars? Sure, giving advice is always a positive, but you've come onto the forum, told people that they are "wasting" money (Being a hero/wannabe) by doing certain mods to their cars.

You also say you are moding your car for "Street"... what does this mean? What is your end goal with the car?

Orrrrr instead, you could just not mod your type S cause there sweet as they are and spend the extra money on stuff that gives you more excitement like wakeboards, snowboards, surfboards and dinners out with girls...

But ey whatever floatsyour boat. Speaking of boats....those coilovers you didnt buy could get you 20% of the way to a boat.

Honda machine, im guessing you recently got your S?

you get bored after awhile and need to change it up to keep the fire alive with your car

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Originally Posted by burak213

Honda machine, im guessing you recently got your S?

you get bored after awhile and need to change it up to keep the fire alive with your car

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+1
Got bored with my R
Started with a gearknob..
Its gotten really bad from then on LOL

Naaa ive had it for over a year easily. Its fun to drive, no need for all the other shit.

Balance it out and get a thrill from other things, ive ridden in cars that are rediculously fast, its good for a day but you get over it pretty quick. Theres other stuff to give you a higher thrill around!

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Originally Posted by Lucas

45SET:
Mate relax.. I said its just MY OPINION.. take it easy ..

You do your thing, and I do mine..

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45SET hasn't fired up at all champ, so there is no need to tell him to relax ;). He is just giving his opinion.

I am inclined to agree with the guy, he suggests a very good alternative. The parts you have recommended are a nice beginning but none of them are near the best, and they certainly aren't for everyone.

A car modified in the way you suggest would in my opinion handly poorly, be too quiet, and be inconsistent on track. Completely unsuitable for me :).

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what would be next for me?

i got wheels and coilovers

what should i do for handling mods?

also i got a cai would a header be worth it?

You're forgetting we are all Honda drivers.
So it's all ABOUT the VTEC.

Geeze, why else did we buy the car?
Certainly not for the light weight chassis, awesomely engineered motor from factory or great economy with a pinch of performance.

Noooo, it's all about the noise and fancy brand name parts.
So spending $5,000 odd dollars for louder VTEC sounds perfectly normal.

Fark corners, it's a FWD car.

/sarcasm

Confused DC5S owners! : should of bought a typeR

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Originally Posted by GSi_PSi

Confused DC5S owners! : should of bought a typeR

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hahahaha :p

In the area of suspension, take a look at Tanabe Sustec Pro 5's. If I had a DC5 I'd be getting a set of these. I found them when looking for new coilovers for my EG. My mate ended up getting a set for his DC5R and thinks they're better than his old HKS Hypermax 2's. And similiarly priced to the (overly expensive) Tein SS's. Win-Win situation.

JDM Concept sell them too.

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Originally Posted by beeza

SATAN wants U for his Army!

Kill someone and your a murderer,kill someone in a war and become a hero :confused:

Good luck with that one bro.

U can be ordered to kill,a servant for your master.

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:thumbdwn:

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Originally Posted by Lucas

Give me til xmas, everything will be installed and I'll give you the honest verdict :)

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best of luck and i hope it gives you the result you are after :)
actually i somewhat agree with those saying go suspension rather than power. you can spend a bucketload chasing straight line speed on your integra but at the end of the day - it's an N/A 4-banger, and you'll still get burnt easily by factory standard V8s, modern V6s and various modern turbo cars.

the area your car already excels in, straight from the factory, is turning corners and low weight. spend some money in those areas and it'll become second to none in handling :)

if you do nothing else for suspension i suggest - upgrade the rear sway bar (eg. whiteline one). by far the best value for money mod i've ever done to a FWD car

hopefully im getting my N+ installed this week. Im only going to get a toda header and exhaust - only if the price is a good buy. Dont really want speed, as i reckon the car is fast enough for sydney speed limits.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lithium

best of luck and i hope it gives you the result you are after :)
actually i somewhat agree with those saying go suspension rather than power. you can spend a bucketload chasing straight line speed on your integra but at the end of the day - it's an N/A 4-banger, and you'll still get burnt easily by factory standard V8s, modern V6s and various modern turbo cars.

the area your car already excels in, straight from the factory, is turning corners and low weight. spend some money in those areas and it'll become second to none in handling :)

if you do nothing else for suspension i suggest - upgrade the rear sway bar (eg. whiteline one). by far the best value for money mod i've ever done to a FWD car

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I'm also planning to buy a rear sway bar for my DC5R and i got a few questions;
1.) What brands should i look for?
2.) How much would it set me back?
3.) Where can i purchase it? If you could point me to the right direction...
4.) What sort of changes/improvements should i expect once i get it installed (In terms of control, ride comfort going down the drain?, stiffnes, etc)
5.) I was also gonna buy a Beaks tie bar, would it have the same effect? Was thinking its one or the other...or both?

Need some pro advice bro

I need to know if anyone has researched this one:

Are engine mounts REQUIRED when purchasing a header? I've heard you at least need inserts or you risk cracking your header from engine movement/fouling on the sway bar. Does getting an EP3 sway fix this or should you still get inserts at least?

Im not sure dude. But my car was owned by a 60 yo grandmother before i purchased it.. and after two months of driving. i had to replace the front engine mount 9 loving the extended warranty).... im gonna get innovative mounts sometime in 2010.

Lol your car has engine mounts already. That's what holds the engine to the chassis. I think you meant solid mounts? No they aren't required. Your exhaust will have a flex/donut join to allow slight movement. You'll need an aftermarket or EP3 swaybar to clear the aftermarket headers too.

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Originally Posted by Zinyo

I'm also planning to buy a rear sway bar for my DC5R and i got a few questions;
1.) What brands should i look for?
2.) How much would it set me back?
3.) Where can i purchase it? If you could point me to the right direction...
4.) What sort of changes/improvements should i expect once i get it installed (In terms of control, ride comfort going down the drain?, stiffnes, etc)
5.) I was also gonna buy a Beaks tie bar, would it have the same effect? Was thinking its one or the other...or both?

Need some pro advice bro

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i should mention i don't have a DC5R - the sway bar was installed on my Barina SRi. therefore disclaimer: my advice is hardly pro advice or even specific to your car :eek: that said i can try to answer your questions based on what i've done :)

1) Whiteline is the big name in Australia
2) you'll have to find out but usually they aren't more than about $300 for the kit
3) http://www.whiteline.com.au/. or if you feel uncomfortable ordering online you can ask your nearest repco/supercrap to order it in for you :)
4) ride comfort does deteriorate but it's quite acceptable - mostly you'll feel the bumps come through more, especially when you go over one-rear-wheel bumps (as the swaybar reduces independence between the two sides of your suspension). in terms of improvement i felt:
a) less body roll
b) the car will feel less 'front heavy' in corners (it won't want to lean on it's front outside wheel as much when turning, it seems to want to lean on both outside wheels instead)
c) the car doesn't want to understeer as quickly
d) as there is less body roll, both the front wheels remain in contact with the ground in a corner, so it's easier to put the power down coming hard out of a corner
if you get an adjustable rear bar you can even choose your balance between comfort and awesomeness :)

sounds sweeet.. i'll prolyl invest in front and rear sway bars soon then.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 02gzm

Lol your car has engine mounts already. That's what holds the engine to the chassis. I think you meant solid mounts? No they aren't required. Your exhaust will have a flex/donut join to allow slight movement. You'll need an aftermarket or EP3 swaybar to clear the aftermarket headers too.

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Yeah no shit mate. I assume that most know what I mean when I say "mounts" considering everyone on here is an expert.... but anyway.

I think I'll still end up with inserts, but it's good to know I don't need them. Tah.

[QUOTE=lithium;2575179]i should mention i don't have a DC5R - the sway bar was installed on my Barina SRi. therefore disclaimer: my advice is hardly pro advice or even specific to your car :eek: that said i can try to answer your questions based on what i've done :)

1) Whiteline is the big name in Australia
2) you'll have to find out but usually they aren't more than about $300 for the kit
3) http://www.whiteline.com.au/. or if you feel uncomfortable ordering online you can ask your nearest repco/supercrap to order it in for you :)
4) ride comfort does deteriorate but it's quite acceptable - mostly you'll feel the bumps come through more, especially when you go over one-rear-wheel bumps (as the swaybar reduces independence between the two sides of your suspension). in terms of improvement i felt:
a) less body roll
b) the car will feel less 'front heavy' in corners (it won't want to lean on it's front outside wheel as much when turning, it seems to want to lean on both outside wheels instead)
c) the car doesn't want to understeer as quickly
d) as there is less body roll, both the front wheels remain in contact with the ground in a corner, so it's easier to put the power down coming hard out of a corner
if you get an adjustable rear bar you can even choose your balance between comfort and awesomeness :)[/QUOTE

Thank brother:thumbsup:

Ne one here with first hand experience (DC5R) can point me to the right direction on which rear sway bar i should look into? Worth getting a BEAKS tie bar instead?

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Originally Posted by Waggy

Yeah no shit mate. I assume that most know what I mean when I say "mounts" considering everyone on here is an expert.... but anyway.

I think I'll still end up with inserts, but it's good to know I don't need them. Tah.

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Calm down cranky pants. Wtf is with people being so angry today.

Polyurethane inserts are a good cheaper alternative to solid mounts for a street car. An even cheaper alternative is filling them with Sikaflex. But they'll need good preparation and some time to dry.

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worth getting a BEAKS tie bar instead?

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Straight up answer - No.


Not worth the price. Not worth the installation hassle. Felt no difference to the car.


If you have money to burn, then buy it for the bling.

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Originally Posted by burak213

Straight up answer - No.


Not worth the price. Not worth the installation hassle. Felt no difference to the car.


If you have money to burn, then buy it for the bling.

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Thought so..rear sway bar it is

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and???

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was it worth it?

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Originally Posted by GSi_PSi

what if your a hero and a wannabe

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:thumbsup: LKOLOLOLOLO

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Originally Posted by burak213

was it worth it?

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Geek, it might only seem like a 20-30kw increase in power, but the torque/power you get across the entire rev range is awesome.

As Lucas (And anyone else with Hondata on a K-series) will tell you, it's well worth the money.

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Just get some semi-slicks. :D

wow.. k pro for type s is a waste ofmoney, if u gotta get a type r ecu lol

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can i ask why you didnt do the other mods planned in ur first post b4 you got the kpro?

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Originally Posted by Lucas

Keeping traction @ wot 1st gear is almost impossible with my current tires atm :) I always have to go part throttle then increase gradually ..

Im going to get new tires soon.. I know getting traction wot 1st gear in DC5 once the power is increased is one of the weak points in those cars launches , but if anyone got any advice let me know. :)

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Refer my first post I made in this thread...

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Originally Posted by lithium

best of luck and i hope it gives you the result you are after :)
actually i somewhat agree with those saying go suspension rather than power. you can spend a bucketload chasing straight line speed on your integra but at the end of the day - it's an N/A 4-banger, and you'll still get burnt easily by factory standard V8s, modern V6s and various modern turbo cars.

the area your car already excels in, straight from the factory, is turning corners and low weight. spend some money in those areas and it'll become second to none in handling :)

if you do nothing else for suspension i suggest - upgrade the rear sway bar (eg. whiteline one). by far the best value for money mod i've ever done to a FWD car

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Hahahaha. I don't agree with your first paragraph in the least. 2nd Paragraph is they are not low weight, a CRX, MX5, and Lotus Elise are lightweight 4 bangers. I need another Jim Beam.


Anyway, back to the main topic. Thats some good mods you have made. Seems to be working well. If you are having problems with traction, you can try the Toyo Proxes R1R's. They work well for mine on the street, and it has a little more power, so should work for you. They come at a good price too. Just check the treadwear on what you buy in tyres too. The lower the number the more traction, but the quicker they will wear out. R1R's i have are TW140. 180 is usually the start for a good performance tyre. Semi's are 100 and below.

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Originally Posted by r3ckless

wow.. k pro for type s is a waste ofmoney, if u gotta get a type r ecu lol

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You really know what you're talkin about there!!??

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Originally Posted by Lucas

to get the best output after step 1 mods ( i/h/e ), I have to tune.
But how am i gonna tune if the K20Z1 ecu can not be tuned .. that's why I got Kpro ..

+ Im not going sc until Kraftwerks release the sc kit Im waiting for.. (where you keep your ac). they'll release it very soon.

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That kit should be pretty good :thumbsup:

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Originally Posted by Nepolian

You really know what you're talkin about there!!??



That kit should be pretty good :thumbsup:

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What i meant in that, is, IMO, if i was chasing power from a DC5, i would personally get a DC5R, and work from that.

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Originally Posted by r3ckless

What i meant in that, is, IMO, if i was chasing power from a DC5, i would personally get a DC5R, and work from that.

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umm why?



also, are you aware that the k20z is more powerful than a k20a2?

its only wat 7 or 8 kw?

Maybe i jsut being a tightass and seeing that teh k20z ecu isnt compatible with Kpro also lol.

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Originally Posted by u mad?

umm why?



also, are you aware that the k20z is more powerful than a k20a2?

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Please,
Type R over S anyday.
You want more a race feel, the R was always the better option.
7kws i believe, big deal??
Start doing mod's on a R and that quickly changes, also correct me if im wrong,
Doesn't the R respond much better to mods then the S or am i wrong ? (correct me if i am seriously)

Thanks.

^^ Plus the R has LSD, is lighter and has a stiffer chassis.

But leather and a sunroof in the S is always a nice bonus :)
All depends if you're after a racey sports car or a luxury sports car. Pro's and con's to each.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 02gzm

^^ Plus the R has LSD, is lighter and has a stiffer chassis.

But leather and a sunroof in the S is always a nice bonus :)
All depends if you're after a racey sports car or a luxury sports car. Pro's and con's to each.

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Thats it, im gettin a sunroof in my R eventually cant wait :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 02gzm

^^ Plus the R has LSD, is lighter and has a stiffer chassis.

But leather and a sunroof in the S is always a nice bonus :)
All depends if you're after a racey sports car or a luxury sports car. Pro's and con's to each.

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True that, and also i think OP has got springs for his sussy setup?

I would rather go around a corner with speed, rather than going ina stiraght line with speed.

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Originally Posted by WATAJK

Thats it, im gettin a sunroof in my R eventually cant wait :)

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If you're going down that route do a full roof transplant.
i.e. drill out the welds and swap the entire panel with a DC5 roof that already contains a sunroof.

Aftermarket sunroofs are never good in the long run.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 02gzm

If you're going down that route do a full roof transplant.
i.e. drill out the welds and swap the entire panel with a DC5 roof that already contains a sunroof.

Aftermarket sunroofs are never good in the long run.

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Well there guys that will be doing my sunroof are recommended by honda and offer me a lifetime gurantee so i don't think it'll give me dramas.
Down side its going to cost $3500.
Lifetime gurantee can't go wrong

as far as i see.
dc5R - recaros, crashy ride, poor bracing and rigidity, noisier, lighter by a slight margin. add a/c and the car is nearly 1250kg... oh and a helical lsd. :D
dc5S - better comfier seats, leather, sunroof, more bracing (honda quotes 21% torsional rigidity front and 25% rear.) more deadening, thicker sway bars, more power, more torque, more linear.

DC5R - boyracer image.
DC5S - Gentle refined touring car.

having driven both. i find the DC5S quicker, heavier, more comfortable, but lacks an lsd.

also the finish and feel of the DC5S is far superior to the DC5R

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 02gzm

^^ Plus the R has LSD, is lighter and has a stiffer chassis.

But leather and a sunroof in the S is always a nice bonus :)
All depends if you're after a racey sports car or a luxury sports car. Pro's and con's to each.

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I don't really see the attraction to leather at all. In the summer its hot as hell and burns your skin, In the winter its cold as hell too. You slide around so much more on the leather and the seats don't hold you in at all on the S

Nice read Lucas:)

Good to see some people are happy to share there personal mods/taste on their own ride:thumbsup:

BTW, great result on the dyno, was that at the wheels or hubs?

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Originally Posted by markis

as far as i see.
dc5R - recaros, crashy ride, poor bracing and rigidity, noisier, lighter by a slight margin. add a/c and the car is nearly 1250kg... oh and a helical lsd. :D
dc5S - better comfier seats, leather, sunroof, more bracing (honda quotes 21% torsional rigidity front and 25% rear.) more deadening, thicker sway bars, more power, more torque, more linear.

DC5R - boyracer image.
DC5S - Gentle refined touring car.

having driven both. i find the DC5S quicker, heavier, more comfortable, but lacks an lsd.

also the finish and feel of the DC5S is far superior to the DC5R

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u joined a month ago/4 days ago...each to their own...do u know wat ur talking about?

if only we got the JDM DC5R... 162kw+ brembos + etcccc

Nice Mods and Nice Gains btw.

Mind posting the Dyno charts?
Would be interesting to see the torque curve.

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Originally Posted by Zinyo

u joined a month ago/4 days ago...each to their own...do u know wat ur talking about?

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you joined over a year ago do you know what you're talking about?:thumbdwn: yes i can search and read, and if you step back and look at it. the DC5S is the series 2 of the DC5.