Printable View
Quick question to those in the know.. is there a marginal differance between an original fuel filter, or any filter for that matter as apposed to a Ryco unit.
Looking to replace oil, air, pollen and fuel filters this week. (car running bit rough)
on eg of $ difference = Fuel filter Honda $70.00 VS Ryco $42.00
Cheers in advance
Mikk
if it was me i would use OEM filters for oil and fuel. i would use K&N air filter (OEM would probs cost more). Ryco cabin filter
Do you have a pic of the Ryco fuel filter? The Honda one is a custom shape plastic filter, which I didn't think Ryco made.
The only thing that I would use Ryco for would be the cabin filter. Stick to OEM for the rest as they are not that expensive since you replace the air filter every 2 years, 4 years for fuel filter and the Honda oil filter is only $15 anyway.
the fuel filter that autobarn sells is near identical to the oem one and costs not much less
k&n filters/pods pay for themselves in terms of reusability alone
K&N filter = $120 (for life)Quote:
Originally Posted by EK1.6LCIV
Cleaning and reoiling kit = $40
OEM air filter = $50 (lasts 2 years)
So it takes you about 6.4 years to break even. Are you going to keep the car for that long, plus having the hassles of washing, drying and oiling it? If you overoil, then you get a sticky TB and that will need cleaning too.
i just check today and the oil filter is lik 24.95....well that how much the guy wanted to charge me
Go to Hondwreck on Westall rd in Clayton south (or any other Honda wrecker that is better). OEM Honda oil filters are much cheaper there. Shit service but doesn't matter if you are buying oil filters.Quote:
Originally Posted by biee2
Got my car serviced last Friday from Honda.Oil filter $16.97!!Quote:
Originally Posted by biee2
wth....lol oh well 24.95 is more expensive but isnt alot of money....i guess i will have to buy it anyway if i want to replace my oilQuote:
Originally Posted by tony1234
Just call up a different dealer and ask for a price.Quote:
Originally Posted by biee2
Guys,
Most of the time, RYCO / VALVOLINE / OEM filters come from the same manufacturer in china, you think there would be all different facotries for filters?
My after market Ryco fuel filter looked exactly the same as the OEM and it only cost me $35.00.. thats right $35.00!
My OEM one is made in Japan and cost me $55. On something that I change every 80,000km, the $20 extra is nothing for a critical component which, if it fails, allows particulates and any crap into your injectors and have you facing a nice repair bill due to clogged injectors and running lean from a lack of fuel.Quote:
Originally Posted by xxb4xx
So OEM is the go then..
Its goin to save me thinking about it knowing once its done, its done.
Honda in the Gong is a rip off from what i can determine.
Currently It feels like im driving a different car everyday. One day its fine and the next its rough a three day growth!
Going to do fuel filter, oil, oil filter, air filter, gearbox oil, throttle clean and a good early morning highway cobweb clean. Hope that helps fix the problem..
You sure it is not caused by fuel quality?
Aaron, I see what you are trying to say, but in reality there is no difference.
It's all made in the same place, the same garbage just in a different package,
The Euro is no Murcialago LP640 for me to be forking out so much more for all the parts from Honda
Each to their own though
I beg to differ, especially with filters. I work in the filtration industry, and filters are not made in the same place. Our company has filters all made by our own factories in different locations around the world. And the same filter model with same micron rating have different performance characteristics, eventhough all the factories are ours with our specs. So imagine comparing an OEM to a 3rd party made filter. It would be different, either in performance, quality or both.Quote:
Originally Posted by xxb4xx
Also, a $20 difference over 4 years is nothing. I'd pay that extra $5 a year if it means going from 3rd party unknown to OEM. Rather have that than a stuffed up injector.
As I said Aaron, I understand where you are coming from, but still each to their own dude.
Cool cool. Sorry if I am coming on as being pushy for oem. :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by xxb4xx
Iv been using Mobil s8000 on all my cars from the same place and never had a drama but that doesnt mean they didnt get a bad batch..
Iv only had the car for a month and id like to KNOW whats been changed and what hasnt- cant alwasy trust a stamp in a book to tell you its actually been done!
Also, checked the spark plugs, and they show definitive signs of wear. The car has done 67k, so might do them too.
Good idea.Then you'll have covered everything.I replaced my plugs at 60K and noticed a bit of a difference.Quote:
Originally Posted by mikka33
What did it look like that indicated wear? The stock plugs have a needle tip, a gap of 1.1mm and are meant to last 120,000kmQuote:
Originally Posted by mikka33
New age spark plugs have a wear indicator built in.
They will show yellowing on the porcelin to show amount of use.
(thats what my uncle who worked for Champion Spark Plugs told me anyway)
SEE PIC
That is the corona stain and is NOT an indicator of spark plug wear. You can use new plugs and run it for 20,000km in 1 year and get that yellowing eventhough the spark plug is meant to last 120,000km or 6 years.Quote:
Originally Posted by mikka33
http://www.ngkspark.com.au/sparkplug_tech.php
On average you should be changing the platinum plugs at about 80-100k's for maximum fuel economy and performance.. at 120k, the car will still be fine but idle a little rough.
Then again it is all dependent on the type of fuel used and the conditions the car has been put through,
e.g starting the car and switching it off straight away all the time is really bad for platinum / iridium plugs, so is octane booster!
Our plugs are iridium, which is why it goes up to 120k. Platinum goes to 60k and should be replaced every 3 years.Quote:
Originally Posted by xxb4xx
Thank for clearing that up!! :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
Ill pass on that info to my uncle who coincidently, doesnt work there any more... LOL
Might do spark plugs anyway seeing as the previous owner told me she didnt know hoe to check the oil level..
Hmm.. Im sitting on 90k now and the idle is a little rough for my liking.. I'm gonna change them soon and not wait, same as the Gearbox oil I did at 80k instead of 100 or 120 etc..
Here's a pic of a fuel filter after 68k.:o
Glad i changed it!!
HUGE difference in all aspects of the car after changing the fuel filter!!!!
Pics above say it all.
If your car is getting close to 60 - 70k, just change it. Especially if you are unsure of the cars history..
That looks very different to mine. Mine was still white at 80k though.Quote:
Originally Posted by mikka33
looks like she put dirt in her tank instead of petrol LOL!!!!
Same here? And no difference performance wise either, (not that there is meant to be)Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
Holy crap! The colour of that so-called fuel filter of yours looks like my aquarium filter filled with fish crap after a month!? What the hell has the previous owner been putting in it???
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
wrong... my filter at best in oem on a civic wouldn't last 2yrs, as QLD is full of construction, debris from constant road construction/bridge construction/concrete dust, bush fires, polution etc etc. (When you clean a pod or panel you can see why I clean mine every oil change as it's filthy! lol oem filters are 30 and are rubbish, I would change them every other oil change at a min but at 70 for a k&n at the time it has long ago paid itself off
With a k&n for $70 not 120, thats a rip off, ebay is your friend lol (or even $40US now with current exhange for a pod item)
oiling is pretty straight forward, would be pretty hard over oiling even if you didn't read the instructions, haven't heard that bs from anyone out of the hundreds of people I know that use reuseable filter units
Scary isnt it!!Quote:
Originally Posted by nickxau
It didnt look so bad untill i disassembled it and removed the actual filter paper..
I guess if the filter is doing its job of filtering the CRAP out of the fuel if it looks that colour.
Ill be cleaning the injectors too just in case..
i agree :) just one thing though, be careful about cleaning the air filter too often. a little bit of dirt especially on oiled filters helps improve the filtration of the filter. as you say, whether you can realise an economic benefit depends entirely on the quality of the air around where you drive.Quote:
Originally Posted by EK1.6LCIV
though honestly, i think noone buys a K&N primarily for economic reasons. mostly i think it's because we get sucked in by the marketing (i can honestly say my K&N panel filter has done absolutely nothing to the performance of my car :) )
i've never heard of an over-oiled filter making a TB sticky? i've heard of it destroying hot-wire MAF sensors, but whether it was the filter that caused this, or the AFM was about to crap itself anyway, is debatable
I changed my fuel filter at 87,000km. I just saw the old filter still sitting on the shelf, so I cut it open, doesn't look too bad, probably worth changing:
http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/324...2009371.th.jpg
Also found the plugs I changed at 73,000km, these probably didn't need replacing:
http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/1...2009365.th.jpg http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/954...2009367.th.jpg
Unless there is a significant price difference, i'll always lean towards OEM filters.
i replaced the oem auto trans filter with a inline magnefine filter http://www.bossproductsusa.com/products.html , also noticed that the trans magnetic drain bolt had a lot of fines on it after only 10k from new so now will drop the auto fluid every 5k to 10k and clean the magnetic drain bolt and also replace the magnefine filter after 20k.
paul