b18c5 Turbo in Civic

Ok guys just lettin you all no, YES i have searched for this topic in the forems and i cannt find the answers to the questions i seek

Ok this is the situation

early next yr after i pay off some debt i have lined up a new motor, its a b18c seriers out of a type R integra. (not sure weather its a c5 6 or 7 yet..)
Im planning to work this motor for all next yr and hopefully drop it into my civic 94 4 door this time next yr. The mods will include a T66 turbo and all the bells and whistles to go with. What i need to know is...

A) what internal work should i do so this motor can safely and daily drivable handell 15 - 20psi, what else should i do besides a decomp gasket and low compression forged pistons + rings (Je 9.0:1), do i need any other components forged?

B) what external mods should i shop for cooler size?, zorst size?, injector size?, fuel pump size etc etc... (i have an engine management system so dont worry about mentioning it)

B) can you buy off the shelf mounts for this conversion or is it custom?

C) to increase the capacity of your motor by boreing, is that getting overbored pistions to the capacity that you want or can you still *bore out your car with the same pistons

i want everything necessary but nothing unnecessary

are you sure you searched?

a) you have a basic idea of it already.. if u want your engine to be bullet proof, have alot of money ready.

b) cooler size is up to you. exhaust size = 3inch (standard these days). bigger injector/fuel pump = better.

b) <--wtf? anyway, are you talking about engine mounts for b18c into a civic?

c) is that a question?

A) Ideally you'd want to re-sleeve the block. The stock sleeves would be fine for the power levels of 15psi but 20 will be pushing it i reckon. You dont need a decomp headgasket...just get the compression right with the pistons.

B) exhaust would be minimum 3"...to work out injector size work out the power level you'll be looking for and use one of the only calculators. Normally 720's or even 880's are safe with no side effects. Have a think about the fuel pump...if you wanna track the car a surge tank with external pump might be the way to go otherwise an intake should suffice. An aftermarket FPR is a good idea, may as well upgrade the fuel rail even though the stock one flows quite a lot simply because rails arent expensive. Again that depends on how much power you are looking at

B) mount kits are available (HA sports among others will have them)

C) the pistons will have to match the bore size, you cant use the same pistons as you would with a standard bore

ok mate yeh i know it will cost alot but i really enjoy doing bit projects like this, and i know there is alot of money and hard work, but the longer you wait the more you look forward to.

At the moment i have a
3inch zorst system
255l/hr fuel pump
10:1 riseing rate fuel pressure regulator
microtec lt8 standalone management

Will this gear i have at the moment be sufficient??

Yes i was wondering if you can buy the mounts for a b18c5 motor into a civic engine bay off the shelf from newhere.... or do they have to be fabricated custom? would 440 or 550 injectors be a sufficient size?

does neone know if there are places in brisbane that sell these mounts?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by joyride

are you sure you searched?

a) you have a basic idea of it already.. if u want your engine to be bullet proof, have alot of money ready.

b) cooler size is up to you. exhaust size = 3inch (standard these days). bigger injector/fuel pump = better.

b) <--wtf? anyway, are you talking about engine mounts for b18c into a civic?

c) is that a question?

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800cc + size injectors you will need for that kinda boost...
replace that fuel reg also with a 1:1

Regards James

my msn address is Ldraper_85@hotmail so if neone could add me and give us some advice or if someone who has done a similar conversion could give us some advice it would be really appreciated
cheers

anmore reply from neone?

how much u have in yr warchest? try to be as honest and realistic as possible

forget about getting a type R motor if your going to boost it. get a VTIR integra engine for half the price. Your going to be replacing everything in the engine anyway if your going to boost it. the type of stuff you are talking about your not going to get much change out of 10k if not more.

I agree with CTR coupe. If you're gonna change compression and internals, you're better of getting a vtir engine from an integra. it'll work out cheaper.
Beside pistons, i think you should also change the con rods to stronger ones and while you're at it, strengthen the crank.

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Originally Posted by imashy14u

strengthen the crank.

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how do u propose to do that?

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Originally Posted by tanghy

Quote:

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Originally Posted by imashy4u

strengthen the crank.

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how do u propose to do that?

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with super glue - derhhh!!!! :D

knife edge crank

Dont think its as easy as A,B,C if you wanna do such things to the engine.
Prolly need to have:
- eagle H/billet connecting rods
- For your type of boost, ermm ... two pumps and an additional injector can allow some leeway for advancement in future
- Bore size, I think 85mm is the max you can go, and your water jacket might suffer?? But reinforced new sleeves will be needed
- Will prolly need metal gaskets
- Injectors, go for ready made RC injectors. Prelude injectors cant match your requirements
- Boost?? Some might say block guard is good, some not. Depends on you
- ermmm ... pardon me for my ignorance but isnt the stock mounts on the B18 a direct bolt (7mm+/-) on to the chassis frame on EG? aftermarket ones, prolly Hasport or similar
- Shitloads of money, unless ya gonna DIY most of the internal parts.

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i'm also doing a similar one next year when i come back from holiday =)

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Originally Posted by fried

with super glue - derhhh!!!! :D

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heeh ... :D

there's something like a polishing type of machine with millions of small pellets vibrating (sorta like a major big vibrator), dump the stuff inside, the vibration sorta act to modify the molecule and strengthen it ... Also do polishing :!:

Not sure if it applies to a strengthen crank though :confused:

Get a big budget...
Shit can the Turdbonetics T66 idea & aim for something a little more modern.
TRUST T67 / HKS GT3037S / Or something bigger

Any B18 will do... Get yourself a B16 head & a Type R crank, you're going to have to change the rest anyway...

Use forged pistons - good ones... JE are ok, not top shelf though.
(Remember, you get what you pay for)

81.25 should be considered your maximum bore size.

Do not use a block guard. This is just plain dumb. (Big-time)
Posting your block is even more stupid.

Use good rods, Eagle are fine, Crower are better...

Do not let anyone modify your crank...
Ie: Do not knife edge, do not balance, only micro polosh if nessesary.
The factory does a fine job of balancing... Don't let some retard f%#k it up.

Use OEM engine bearings... They are the best...

Steer clear of so-called "turbo" grind cams... Total waste of money...

Cooler core - 300 x 600 x 75 minimum
You can fit 470 x 600 x 114 behind the front bar of a DC2

Exhaust - depending on noise level tolerated & power chased...
3 inch is as big as you'd ever need. 2.5inch will most likley do the job & quieter.

700cc/min injectors minimum... 1000cc/min better.
Intank Walbro pump minimum... Bosch motorsport -044 better.
Us a linear fuel pressure regulator... Eg: Sard

& best advice I can offer...
Never let someone who's never built an engine do any of the following...
Offer you parts combination advice...
Offer you machining process & assembly advice...
Tune or be involved in tuning your engine...
You have been warned... ;)

Quote:

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Quote:
Originally Posted by imashy14u
strengthen the crank.


how do u propose to do that?

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Shot-peened or Cryogenic. If you don't know what it is, do a search on google. I'm suprised how many people have never heard of these processes:confused:

Strengthen the crank WTF?????


Here is a good template to follow.

http://www.fastfoursvip.com/articles....aspx?view=199

By the way how big is the warchest?

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Strengthen the crank WTF?????

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Stregthening the crank happens alot with people looking for very high power outputs. Dunno what the big deal is.:rolleyes: It's just a suggestion to bullet proof the engine. By doing this, you also upgrade/change the main bearings to ensure these do not get stuffed.

If some of you don't know what strengthening the crank will do or how it works, look up google and all shall be revealed. Like I said, it's just a suggestion.

im getting the type R engine off a mates bro for around 2k...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CTR Coupe

forget about getting a type R motor if your going to boost it. get a VTIR integra engine for half the price. Your going to be replacing everything in the engine anyway if your going to boost it. the type of stuff you are talking about your not going to get much change out of 10k if not more.

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Lyle, obviously you havenet searched that much to realise your turboing the WRONG engine to start with.
You will have a better set up with a LS engine.

i disagree, since he is getting the engine for so cheap its a good base...internals will be changed anyway and he gets a higher flowing head

as for strengthening the crank, the OEM crank will be fine...no need to waste money

Toda ..
whats wrong with a knife edged crank and block guards ?

Also, Lyle, get some gears which allow you enough spooling time and enough rpm space to use that power. I just laugh so much at the clouns who do big turbo setups and install close ratio gearboxes only to find out the have to change gears as soon as the puppy starts spooling up. I see it all the time. revv revv revvv getting there 6000 start spooling hard then 1500 rpm later its gear change. lol. U just lost all of that T66 power ;)

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Originally Posted by poid

i disagree, since he is getting the engine for so cheap its a good base...internals will be changed anyway and he gets a higher flowing head

as for strengthening the crank, the OEM crank will be fine...no need to waste money

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The B18c spec R engine is set up for the best NA applications.
now since you are getting it cheap, sell it and get a better engine suited to your turbo project. The key is compression. Im sure im not the only one to tell you that ;)

ok fair enough, yes i know that this is a high compressed motor but wouldnt it be better getting a type R as it revs higher then a vtir.
Also it wont be hard to get the compression down to say 8.5:1 from 11:1
and i wont be getting my parts from oz, i import from us (much cheeper) oz parts are rip off.
Also guys i ask these questions because i am interested, so if you are going to post negative comments or comments that make me sound like an idiot just dont bother because they are not appreciated. Just answer my questions if you want but dont pay me out or call me a fool. If you dont like my thred then dont post in it
cheers

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Civic Type R

The B18c spec R engine is set up for the best NA applications.
now since you are getting it cheap, sell it and get a better engine suited to your turbo project. The key is compression. Im sure im not the only one to tell you that ;)

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Thanks mate for answering the exact questions that i origionally asked.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TODA AU

Get a big budget...
Shit can the Turdbonetics T66 idea & aim for something a little more modern.
TRUST T67 / HKS GT3037S / Or something bigger

Any B18 will do... Get yourself a B16 head & a Type R crank, you're going to have to change the rest anyway...

Use forged pistons - good ones... JE are ok, not top shelf though.
(Remember, you get what you pay for)

81.25 should be considered your maximum bore size.

Do not use a block guard. This is just plain dumb. (Big-time)
Posting your block is even more stupid.

Use good rods, Eagle are fine, Crower are better...

Do not let anyone modify your crank...
Ie: Do not knife edge, do not balance, only micro polosh if nessesary.
The factory does a fine job of balancing... Don't let some retard f%#k it up.

Use OEM engine bearings... They are the best...

Steer clear of so-called "turbo" grind cams... Total waste of money...

Cooler core - 300 x 600 x 75 minimum
You can fit 470 x 600 x 114 behind the front bar of a DC2

Exhaust - depending on noise level tolerated & power chased...
3 inch is as big as you'd ever need. 2.5inch will most likley do the job & quieter.

700cc/min injectors minimum... 1000cc/min better.
Intank Walbro pump minimum... Bosch motorsport -044 better.
Us a linear fuel pressure regulator... Eg: Sard

& best advice I can offer...
Never let someone who's never built an engine do any of the following...
Offer you parts combination advice...
Offer you machining process & assembly advice...
Tune or be involved in tuning your engine...
You have been warned... ;)

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Yes Mate OBVIOUSLY i dont have all the information needed to complete this project yet... but thats what i am doing now is researching and getting ideas i dont need u to tell me, and i come to these forems for help thats what they are for right.... not to be told, "you havnt researched" or a story about something off topic...
to ask questions and get them specifically answered.

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Originally Posted by Civic Type R

Lyle, obviously you havenet searched that much to realise your turboing the WRONG engine to start with.
You will have a better set up with a LS engine.

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You dont need high revving engines for high HP turbos. It doesnt work like that. You need gearing to fully maximise the use of that power. High rev engines = high compression. High compression is your enemy here. Just because its a perfect built engine for NA. That doesnt mean its suitable for your intentions.

Come on my forum and post this topic and speak to Jake. [RaceCivicman]
Tuning hondas and turbos is his job. If he can run a B18c5 in his EG hatch and record a 12.75 NA than i wouldnt take his expertise with a pinch of salt.
We are here to help. But you are looking at a very serious setup that will set you back atleast $10k AUD. There are no shortcuts you can take. If you do, BANG !

i never said i wanted the motor high compressed, i said it wouldnt take much to get the compression down to safe levels (8:1 or so)

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Originally Posted by Lyle_Style

i never said i wanted the motor high compressed, i said it wouldnt take much to get the compression down to safe levels (8:1 or so)

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yeah i know but i am just saying this is the wrong engine to start with. Its been purposely built for high compression and revability.
You will get better power and strength with a B18B or B18A.
The compression u need is 8.7:1

sif adam :P lol

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Originally Posted by Civic Type R

The compression u need is 8.7:1

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why is that the magic number?

because pornstar said so :D