Cold Air Intake - DIY DC2 stealth intake < $150

Hey Guys,

Quick disclaimer, I'm not pro at this or fabrication and definately not photography, so don’t take my word for anything and don’t expect much from the pics:) I have been building my CAI over the last couple days and I just thought I'd document it in case there are any other DC2 peeps who have been wanting a washable pod in their ride. My aim was not to add Xhp or YNm, the purpose was to fit a washable K&N pod to the vehicle and improve induction sound for the driver without affecting roadworthy-ness for the silly modification laws that we have to suffer on the east coast ;) The vehicle is my newly aquired 1999 DC2 VTi-R.

Sooo here goes...

STAGE 1 (Install pod filter and remove stock resonator):

1) Obtain supplies! All I needed was a pod (I am loyal K&N fan after my last car) and some stuff from bunnings to build the adaptor. My dockets looked like this:
Supercheap Auto: K&N RR3002 ------- $ 80 (obviously that wasn’t all I bought, supercheap is awesome during sales:p)
Bunnings Warehouse: Sandpaper ---- $ 1.53
Jenco Joiner-Rubber 65mm ------------ $ 18.13
Spray Paint ------------------------------ $ 3.15
PVC Bend 65mmx45 -------------------- $ 6.75
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-------------------------------------------- $ 109.56 (read, bargain:))
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Obviously the paint and sandpaper are optional, the rest of the stuff can be found in the plumbing isles (at Oakleigh South, its close to the drainpipe and sewage piping).

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/...1_supplies.jpg

2) Assemble adaptor! First step was to cut the Joiner-Rubber thingy in half, otherwise it’ll be too long to fit nicely in the stock airbox. I used my dremel which I DO NOT recommend – it makes a massive mess and I had one cutting disc explode on me. If you are going to use something like that, use eye protection – if it wasn’t 10pm last night I would have gone for a thin hacksaw. Sand it afterwards to remove any rubber filaments that could get into the engine. Then, after masking the section of the pipe that you want the (halved) joiner to go on, sand it back and spray it up (optional)!

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/...tor_pieces.jpg

After the paint is dry (or before if you don’t mind some finger marks and you’re impatient like me) the fun begins. It was a bit of a struggle to get the joiner on but with some patience and strong fingers you can “walk” it down the pipe, I took it over the drying paint a little to super seal it:) You can also use a table and push down gradually letting your weight do the work. Now your adaptor is ready and you can install the pod!

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/...03_adaptor.jpg

3) Installing the pod is not rocket science either. I put the adaptor in first, after taking off that springy thing that’s on the stock airhose. Afterwards you can stretch the springy thing back on, my technique was to use two screwdrivers to stake it in the groove that it lives in and work my way around the pipe. I added one of the clamps from the joiner for good measure (and cos it was shiny). The pod slips onto the painted end of the PVC pipe no worries, replace the airbox lid and that’s the filter installed! Mine is a very tight fit but I wouldn’t worry – I’m not a pneumatics engineer but I reckon the K&N flows much better than the standard paper filter and even though it is touching the sides, there are gaps to allow air around and through the upwards facing sides of the filter (circle in a square kinda styles). In fact I’d suggest that some restriction on the intake is good, seeing as the standard restrictions have been removed…

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/..._installed.jpg

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/...rboxisfull.jpg

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/...rboxclosed.jpg

4) Removing the standard resonator is free and good for induction noise. I didn’t take many photos of this – its bloody hot out there today and I was struggling just to get the work done:) First step is to turn the front wheels all the way to the left (hot tip). Then its not hard, you only have to partially remove the inside guard trim and the forward splash protector. I think it was 3 screws (one in the front underneath, two on the inside of the wheel arch) 2 funny Honda fasteners (they look like bolts but screw into plastic “expanding bevels” and are required to pull back the forward splash protector) and one different Honda fastener (a lil plastic pin in an expanding bevel, for the inside fender guard).

Then you can gently bend the guards out and get to the resonator bolts – there are two. Once these are out, you can pull the resonator down, it requires a little bit of jiggling but should come fairly easy. Finally, there’s an intake “scoop” that goes back into the engine bay, one more bolt out and your sweet!

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/...steofspace.jpg

STAGE 2 (CAI ducting)

1) Shopping list:
Bunnings Warehouse:
Gutter Outlet 75mm ----------------------- $1.98
Gutter Access 80mm Dropper Outlet ---- $2.95
Airflex Rangehood 100mmx3000mm ----- $ 28.79
30cm cable ties ---------------------------- $2
(and i used a teeny length of old vacuum hose ~0.4m and some cable ties I found)

2) Assemble adaptor! Soooo to get the pipe into the airbox, (the pipe is 100mm, the airbox opening is a wierd oval) I decided to use the PVC pipage. I cant remember which one from above but yeh the picture makes it obvious. The ducting is not fun to work with, next time (or when it breaks) I'll be trying a rubber equivalent (as someone has mentioned below). Drill a few small holes in the PVC bit and then cut slots to allow the rectangular flange to slot into the ally ducting. Take some care with this, the ducting can cut u up and tears a little too easily. I started with a slot, then guess the position of the next one, make a small hole and work your way around. It might take a few gos but dont worry, the 3m of pipe allows for lots of mistakes (you only really need a 1-1.5m length).

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/...irboxinlet.jpg

3) Then get it in the car! I jacked the front up as high as my baby trolley jack would go and took off the driver side inner fender guard and front splash panel. For the front splash panel, just taking it half off it really enough, it depends on you:) (will post pics from under the car soon). The mouth of the adaptor you built above should be forced into the bottom of the airbox (it goes a little oval shaped). Then the other PVC part slots in from above and forms a press fit. I think the press fit should be enough to keep it all in place - but I've only done a couple days testing up until now.

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/...sideairbox.jpg

4) Fix the duct opening. I just used 2 30cm cable ties from the 2buck shop joined together and bound to the splash panel. You need to carefully push the circular opening into a bit of an oval to ensure that your ground clearance is OK. As long as its 10cm above the ground, its legal. I also used some vacuum hose, split down the middle as edging for the ally opening so that no people or cats could end up cut on it.

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/...nletmunted.jpg

Since stage 1, I've had the thermostat fixed and the car is running better. I had been driving around with the paper filter back in so that I didnt get busted by warranty (paranoid! :)) and now, with both the pod and ducting, the sound is definately improved and I have subjectively felt a definate improvement in throttle response. No dyno results but I dont believe in them:p All I care is now I can wash my filter and my car goes vrooooom without a stupidly loud zorst. yay!

Toix

Is that the stock dc2r airbox? I never knew a pod filter like that fits in there LOLS.
I wonder if the 3A racing one fits in the stock airbox =/ I dont want an exposed pod.
Too much hassle.

Rep to you with useful info on what item is needed for this DIY.

cheers mate :thumbsup:

hehe thanks:) I was a lil frustrated after a lot of searching so I thought a detailed description might be useful! thats the stock airbox in my vti-r (as far as i know:)) to be honest I was suprised I could cram the filter in there hehe

not sure of the dimensions of the 3A filter, there was a calibre one at supercheap that looked like it would fit better but i dont go anything other than K&N :) If you want send me the dimensions of it (lengths from intake and "barrel start" to end, intake diameter and max diameter) and I'll check them against the one I've got:)

im positive the K&N make a pod specifially for the dc2 that directly replaces the stock 1.

title is wrong. this isnt a cold air intake. its factory airbox with a pod

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tct

im positive the K&N make a pod specifially for the dc2 that directly replaces the stock 1.

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Yes you are right.

GSi_PSi is right too, LOL.

Sorry Toix I know this was a lot of effort, but this actually does nothing special. You could have simply bought a K&N replacement filter. It's a pod to begin with, and just replaces the stock one without modifying the hose. Then if you want just go under and remove the resonator.

Cant you just buy one of those metal connector pipes for like $10.

Anyways, good to see ghetto domestic market is back in town.

all u had to do was break of ur old air filter and stick the pod to the end of it or buy the replacement k&n

hehe thx for feedback, i might have searched a bit harder for that k&n drop in had i known about it and not wanted this on the car immediately... regardless, this is just the kinda thing i like to do in my holidays :p

@tct - where do you get this from, i didnt see one anywhere (admittedly i did not look vey hard)? if its not at supercheap or repco its a moot point, I didnt want to have to wait for shipping etc

@GsiPsi - a cold air intake by definition is an induction system that recieves cool air from outside the engine bay and directs it into the engine. the presence of the factory airbox does not change this fact (and has been included to comply with draconian laws in a cheap and easy fashion). granted, until "stage 2" when I get the ducting in, it is not a true CAI but the first post clearly stated STAGE 1 - i mean all the other CAI products out there are just tubes with a pod arent they? :p

@imratedpg - i considered this first off. however i could see a few small issues with this, namely; the inside diameter of the factory air filter is larger than the k&n inlet, not guaranteeing airtight seal, gluing plastic to the rubber/polyurethane pod is not ideal and finally, the height offset of the factory filter, to put it lower in the airbox would probably mean the pod would not fit. Lastly, it would look s&^t and it was a major requirement that this looks factory on inspection by any pigdog...

interested to see how u go about designing the ducting. what type of duct r u using?
i had a look at using semi rigid aluminium ducting
kinda cheap at $50 for 3m
http://jpmark.com.au/uploadedFiles/1...02144-0275.jpg

what are you guys all have in your what's the best air intake to buy or material. i've been looking i was thinking of getting AEM V2 but people say its better to make your own and cheaper. so this DIY intake will not improve any performance. where will you be able to purchase these steel pipes or allumium ones and anyone keen on taking pics of how to make one :D.

buy an injen or fujita cold air intake, dyno proven performance,

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GSi_PSi

buy an injen or fujita cold air intake, dyno proven performance,

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any injen? cause i know my mate has a V2 sounds good on his EG but who cares lol i want more performance then sound, sound i can use an ehxaust yeah? kinda hijacking the forum but, you people seem to know what your on about here thats all.

havent had no experience with the aemv2 , the fujitas are pretty cheap on ebay us
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FUJIT...Q5fAccessories
Make an offer aswell, it doesnt hurt and you can get an even better price , like i did

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GSi_PSi

havent had no experience with the aemv2 , the fujitas are pretty cheap on ebay us
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FUJIT...Q5fAccessories
Make an offer aswell, it doesnt hurt and you can get an even better price , like i did

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for a vti-r here, its gsr in america right?

vaccuum cleaner style Intake ?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FUJIT...item3a52537267

yup ^ for VTi-R owners

Quote:

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Originally Posted by yellows2k

interested to see how u go about designing the ducting. what type of duct r u using?
i had a look at using semi rigid aluminium ducting
kinda cheap at $50 for 3m
http://jpmark.com.au/uploadedFiles/1...02144-0275.jpg

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Havent had time to do more than a 10 minute check in bunnings, new yrs celebrations and recovery time..

i have found another pvc drainpipe part that fits nicely in the bottom of the airbox and has a 70mm id which should be ok, but ive also got a 90mm one im planning on modifying. just to get all geeky... here's how i'd start thinking about it from a numbers point of view

1.8L n/a engine consumes 1.8L of air every 4 revolutions, call it 2L to account for leakage, so at 8000rpm (my redline) the engine needs 4000L of air (per minute) or 240Kl/hr. To roughly calculate the intake area required, V=A.v which says that for a 90mm pipe opening perpendicular to the airflow at 40km/h (igoring friction losses and any intake funnel effects) enough air will be entering the airbox to satisfy the engines demand. For a 70mm pipe this speed is more like 65km/h.

All I've found at bunnings so far is ally 100mm kitchen ducting... If i can find a way to mount it, access cool air without major bends then i will use that with an adaptor to fit the airbox, with that kind of intake area, I doubt there will be much air drawn in from the engine bay, instead it might provide some additional cooling to the ABS unit :p

by the time uve finish buil this up it will be close as any generic CAI system.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by toix

Havent had time to do more than a 10 minute check in bunnings, new yrs celebrations and recovery time..

i have found another pvc drainpipe part that fits nicely in the bottom of the airbox and has a 70mm id which should be ok, but ive also got a 90mm one im planning on modifying. just to get all geeky... here's how i'd start thinking about it from a numbers point of view

1.8L n/a engine consumes 1.8L of air every 4 revolutions, call it 2L to account for leakage, so at 8000rpm (my redline) the engine needs 4000L of air (per minute) or 240Kl/hr. To roughly calculate the intake area required, V=A.v which says that for a 90mm pipe opening perpendicular to the airflow at 40km/h (igoring friction losses and any intake funnel effects) enough air will be entering the airbox to satisfy the engines demand. For a 70mm pipe this speed is more like 65km/h.

All I've found at bunnings so far is ally 100mm kitchen ducting... If i can find a way to mount it, access cool air without major bends then i will use that with an adaptor to fit the airbox, with that kind of intake area, I doubt there will be much air drawn in from the engine bay, instead it might provide some additional cooling to the ABS unit :p

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LOL i have no clue what your talking about but im a noob soo yeah :(. sounds good im intersdted man

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GSi_PSi

buy an injen or fujita cold air intake, dyno proven performance,

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:rolleyes: For the extra few hundred tbh i'd prefer something else personally.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lil_foy

:rolleyes: For the extra few hundred tbh i'd prefer something else personally.

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LOL that would be what i was think of getting a j's racing style intake

jezza, im no engine person so i dont really understand it either, i just had an idea that you could use physics and some assumptions to put some numbers to what is really required of a cool air duct and use them to choose the correct diameter ducting:)

as i kinda said before, there are a few reasons i decided to do this myself - the main one being i cannot justify spending too much on CAI (my budget is 100-150, id rather spend the extra hunj on stereo gear). This isnt a race car, its to get to work in:) hence i want to play with it and get a growl and maybe some throttle response but not spend zillions for 1.45hp (or whatever the dyno said). BTW we have rolling dynos at my work, I have used them in the past to assist with fuel map cals and everyone knows that dynos only show relative differences, not absolutes. A small error in the setup can really mess up the results (or make them look awesome if you're trying to prove something)... only engine dynos hooked up to the flywheel can really be trusted. finally, i like building stuff and ive got the time cos im on holidays:) once im back in the grind, my spare time is all gone :(

i understand where you going lol. i anit no drug dealer or a rich mothfkr hahah. so yeah i wouldnt mind doing a dyno either but cbf spending money on it :D

life of a doll bludger

the fujita costs about 270 , the injen 300 or so.....
for an extra hundred what may i ask you prefer?
the j's intake isnt better than CAI system.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GSi_PSi

the fujita costs about 270 , the injen 300 or so.....
for an extra hundred what may i ask you prefer?
the j's intake isnt better than CAI system.

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K&n filter, oem box, cut the down section off the resonator so it feeds into the guard and remove rest.

Spend rest on other aspects of the car.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lil_foy

K&n filter, oem box, cut the down section off the resonator so it feeds into the guard and remove rest.

Spend rest on other aspects of the car.

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:thumbsup::thumbsup: FTW.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lil_foy

K&n filter, oem box, cut the down section off the resonator so it feeds into the guard and remove rest.

Spend rest on other aspects of the car.

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a lot of ppl love this mod... but honestly, i had this on my car (although it was a trust/spoon drop-in filter in stock box) and my resonator was gone... it was okay... but then i put on a Mugen CAI and it just kills this DIY mod...

so much response... yes i know its an expensive CAI but i have never regretted getting it. next best thing is probably the Injen due to its bang for bucks feature...

and if u can't afford it coz ur a dole bludger... too bad? haha! get a job, save up, and get a mugen... as they say, do it right the first time!

the only reason i would see people rocking that mod is either they are scared to get defected or they are just cheap.....

im not a dole bludger lol, im a professional automotive engineer. i can afford one but why should i? note all reasons already listed above, plus i get cheap blaupunkt gear so a hunj or two is not a small saving in terms of audio gear. got meself some ducting today, planning a 100mm intake under the front bar:) should be nice weather, i'll try get some wicked doco happening... I am planning not just CAI now but also a degree of rammage. I drove down my street holding the ducting out the window hehe theres some decent flow at 40-60kph:p

just spent the start of the evening researching and it seems that k&n pods are indeed illegal in victoria - only dry element pods are allowed... it also seems that there is NO legal requirement to house the filter in an airbox for an efi engine (but if it is hidden, there's a good chance mr plod wont see your illegal oil based filter and less chance of needing a "its just a dry filter" excuse). havent yet found a reg that says you can't strap a massive duct under your front bar:p only ground clearance requirements....

the legalities are important mate, but viewing what you have done to date you arent going to get pinged for the K&N, because they wont open the box! paint it all black and you wont have a problem!

hehe yeh, i just thought i better do the "right" thing and find out for myself exactly what is ok... also i had a quick go at fitting the ducting but it was getting dark so i stopped and reassembled the car - just looks like im going to want it directly under the bar/splash tray and it looks kinda obvious so i thought i better suss it out.

you're right tho, i doubt they can ask/demand that i open the airbox on the basis of a silver duct nor could they really issue a defect without seeing the pod (i want to leave the duct silver for heat reasons, and practically itl be hard to paint)

having said that i have had a fair bit to do with the police and cars in the past, especially when i was a teenage hoon menacing the streets of perth, and i know that if they want blood, theyl get it - one of my canaries on the mr2 was for a "dirty engine bay" LOL

Quote:

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Originally Posted by toix

im not a dole bludger lol, im a professional automotive engineer. i can afford one but why should i? note all reasons already listed above, plus i get cheap blaupunkt gear so a hunj or two is not a small saving in terms of audio gear. got meself some ducting today, planning a 100mm intake under the front bar:) should be nice weather, i'll try get some wicked doco happening... I am planning not just CAI now but also a degree of rammage. I drove down my street holding the ducting out the window hehe theres some decent flow at 40-60kph:p

just spent the start of the evening researching and it seems that k&n pods are indeed illegal in victoria - only dry element pods are allowed... it also seems that there is NO legal requirement to house the filter in an airbox for an efi engine (but if it is hidden, there's a good chance mr plod wont see your illegal oil based filter and less chance of needing a "its just a dry filter" excuse). havent yet found a reg that says you can't strap a massive duct under your front bar:p only ground clearance requirements....

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oh yeah, i didn't target u as the dole bludger, i just mentioned it coz someone else proclaimed to be a dole bludger...

but its true, ppl can't justify spending so much for a Mugen CAI... all i can say is, if u buy one and see the difference first hand, it will be justified for you.

and good job having a go at DIY... wish i could do that stuff...

interested in pics of how ur planning on setting up the ducting

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lil_foy

K&n filter, oem box, cut the down section off the resonator so it feeds into the guard and remove rest.

Spend rest on other aspects of the car.

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i have tried this diy and i feel that removing the cut resonator pipe much better as the pipe is blocking most of the cold air, opposed to having k&n filter+airbox and free flowing air

Quote:

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Originally Posted by imratedpg

all u had to do was break of ur old air filter and stick the pod to the end of it or buy the replacement k&n

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yeh you should of rip the old filter of the adapter, so the k&n filter can connect to it. otherwise you will have a large gap behind the airbox where cold air can escape and hot air to enter

yeh jezza sed this but im happy to help a dole bludger with cheap cai n tax $$ :p no offence taken heheh but my reasons arent only cost:) sorry if i sounded a lil snappy, not completely over new yrs just yet :p

im not yet blessed with a garage, all my mucking around in the carpark definately amuses the neighbours... last year i pulled the rack outta the mr2 and carried it upstairs to my apartment for a rebuilt/adjustment on the kitchen table:p il do the work and take some pics when i get time and no rain - my bros visiting from wa so a bit busy at the mo...

what i did this evening tho was put the ducting down from the air box then (looking at the car), about 90degrees left under the left lil inside fender guard, turn it around right under the headlights, infront of the radiator and ac cooler and then straight down through the splash guard (a bit tight but a lil bendyness) and then 90degrees facing front. my only concern with this location is attention and water in the rain, the alternative is to find another way a bit further back and maybe higher but il definitely post it all up:) my final choice of ducting was the semi-rigid ally kitchen ducting (looks exactly like yellows2k post) at bunnings, just under 30bucks - the only alternative there was much thinner and more flexible but didnt look too promising

xQuizit - didnt wanna cut the stock resonator, wanna keep it so i can restore the car to stock if required. Nice pick up on the lack of sealage at the rear of the airbox, ive got two ideas on how to manage this. First one is this massive rubber seal that I found at bunnings that looks easy to modify to fit in the lip that the stocker sits in - i forgot to grab it today cos i got there 10mins before closing :(. The other alternative is do nothing - refer to my (intoxicated) post i made this morning in bed, it seems that a 100mm duct pointing directly into the oncoming air might push enough cool air into the airbox (when the car is moving) to stop any suckage of engine bay air from that part of the airbox...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dc2r

a lot of ppl love this mod... but honestly, i had this on my car (although it was a trust/spoon drop-in filter in stock box) and my resonator was gone... it was okay... but then i put on a Mugen CAI and it just kills this DIY mod...

so much response... yes i know its an expensive CAI but i have never regretted getting it. next best thing is probably the Injen due to its bang for bucks feature...

and if u can't afford it coz ur a dole bludger... too bad? haha! get a job, save up, and get a mugen... as they say, do it right the first time!

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I have plenty of money to spend on the car and I had a cai previously, which i sold to go back to stock.

Honestly it's like the boyracer exhausts, just because there is sound doesnt mean you're going faster.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GSi_PSi

the only reason i would see people rocking that mod is either they are scared to get defected or they are just cheap.....

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I have no worries of getting defected really, i'm allowed a cai in qld.
Or I could spend $300 on bushes and be faster around the track?

Think what you want to, doesn't bother me the slightest.

Quote:

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what i did this evening tho was put the ducting down from the air box then (looking at the car), about 90degrees left under the left lil inside fender guard, turn it around right under the headlights, infront of the radiator and ac cooler and then straight down through the splash guard (a bit tight but a lil bendyness) and then 90degrees facing front. my only concern with this location is attention and water in the rain, the alternative is to find another way a bit further back and maybe higher but il definitely post it all up:) my final choice of ducting was the semi-rigid ally kitchen ducting (looks exactly like yellows2k post) at bunnings, just under 30bucks - the only alternative there was much thinner and more flexible but didnt look too promising

xQuizit - didnt wanna cut the stock resonator, wanna keep it so i can restore the car to stock if required. Nice pick up on the lack of sealage at the rear of the airbox, ive got two ideas on how to manage this. First one is this massive rubber seal that I found at bunnings that looks easy to modify to fit in the lip that the stocker sits in - i forgot to grab it today cos i got there 10mins before closing :(. The other alternative is do nothing - refer to my (intoxicated) post i made this morning in bed, it seems that a 100mm duct pointing directly into the oncoming air might push enough cool air into the airbox (when the car is moving) to stop any suckage of engine bay air from that part of the airbox...

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ill take pics of my setup i dun 6 months ago pod inside box with cold air feed using drain water pipe cost me about 15bucks?, why did i do this setup cause i was bored

For the people that run a duct where the resonator was. How do u collect air as the radiator and fan etc is blocking good airflow. I have an ek with b18c and if I run it directly down it won't get clear air. That's why the injen cai runs into the hole so the pod can collect air better from the front bumper with no obstructions

Quote:

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Originally Posted by yellows2k

For the people that run a duct where the resonator was. How do u collect air as the radiator and fan etc is blocking good airflow. I have an ek with b18c and if I run it directly down it won't get clear air. That's why the injen cai runs into the hole so the pod can collect air better from the front bumper with no obstructions

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no the ducting sits in the same place as where the pod wud be for an injen behind the bumper, the radiator wont even be in the way,this is my setup looking from the front indicator on a dc2

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...IMG_0304-1.jpg

Quick question, is a one piece or two piece fujita CAI better? Im looking at getting one, but they stock a one and two piece. I thought a 2 would be easier to install?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by waffelhead

Quick question, is a one piece or two piece fujita CAI better? Im looking at getting one, but they stock a one and two piece. I thought a 2 would be easier to install?

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2 piece wud be easier to install and they wud both be the same performance wise ,2 piece wud be better as u can run short ram and long ram

Quote:

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Originally Posted by imratedpg

2 piece wud be easier to install and they wud both be the same performance wise ,2 piece wud be better as u can run short ram and long ram

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Thanks :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by waffelhead

Thanks :)

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performance wise and price. is it good?

they may show you a two piece design. but they will send you a one piece like they did with mine. i even asked them if it was 2 or 1 piece they said 2. i recieved 1 piecee...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jezza10

performance wise and price. is it good?

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havent got it yet, considering to get.

toix: Don't know if this helps but I did this mod to mine a few years ago
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...+resonator+dc2

nice mate, that looks awesome! very similar to what I'm trying to acheive, probably better going with the rubber duct for heat conduction, but i might stick with the ally duct for now and see how it goes in... no time today but im going to try and make time tomorrow:) im hesitant to modify the airbox too, i really dont need 2 cars that could be defected - the mr2 is heaps bad enough (its just got a pod hanging straight off the tb a straight through 2.5" zorst, measured when new at 93db (6yrs ago or so:p) - not to mention a zillion rwc issues hehe)

im not 100% happy with the duct opening behind the indicators, im sure there is still heaps of cold air, but i want it facing forward into the breeze with as little in the way as possible:) it will definately suffice for a backup plan and really there is probably not much difference between rammage and not, i just like the idea of a positively pressurised airbox (no matter how marginal that pressure might be hehe)

http://www.team-integra.net/forum/di...PagePosition=1

mine is similar to this setup same material just different size

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lil_foy

I have plenty of money to spend on the car and I had a cai previously, which i sold to go back to stock.

Honestly it's like the boyracer exhausts, just because there is sound doesnt mean you're going faster.



I have no worries of getting defected really, i'm allowed a cai in qld.
Or I could spend $300 on bushes and be faster around the track?

Think what you want to, doesn't bother me the slightest.

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When it comes to the Mugen CAI, it is not just "louder means faster" concept that you refer to. The major point of the Mugen is the response of the vehicle. Revs much quicker than stock or even with removing-the-resonator-and-drop-in-filter-mod.

Plus I also got it dyno proven and made a 5kw atw gain. Yeah it sounds crazy but compared to my older 'stock' dyno, I gained 5kw with a Mugen. I was expecting just a response gain, but was happy when I also got a power gain.

not too sure if it will suit you as well but for my dc2r I had the comptech icebox with the standard K&N filter with no issues... comptech was 180 if I recal correctly

dc2r - as i said above, unless you dynoed the car on the same day, with the same tires and the same dyno set up, you cannot be sure that there is a particular increase or not... for eg, the dyno needs to be set up with rolling radius, if the tires are not at precisely the same state of wear, this will affect the results (i know it sounds crazy but its true:))

regardless, the mugen crew probably do a very comprehensive job designing their intake. in exactly the same way that the intake runners on the vti-r engine work, the length and shape of the intake can be designed such that at a particular rpm, there is a passive "ram" effect (like well designed extractors). the engine sucks at a particular frequency, not a smooth suck... this sets up a waveform in the intake tube. just like you can get a bottle to hum by blowing across the top of it (this sets up a standing wave of the note you hear in the bottle) an air intake does the same thing. an expensive, fully engineered intake is designed such that, in the power band, the waveform that is generated is NOT standing, but slowly moving down the tube towards the engine. This reduces the intake resistance and passively forces air into the cylinders. As well as sucking cold air, this effect can also increase air density in the cylinder and hence increase power:) shorter, wider intakes will do this at higher rpm, longer thinner intakes at lower rpm. this is complicated (and is what you are paying for, hopefully!) and without some serious tools, you cannot do this at home:)

actually i just did a quick google, some bloke reckons hes done the calcs for his cam and his prelude: http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1963201 anyway thats kinda what im getting at:)

yeah toix... i know that dynos should be done on the same day for best comparison, but my whole point for lil_foy is that, just because my mugen cai made louder noise that i think it also goes faster... that is not true in my case as i know that it does go faster. the response is certainly quicker... i got the mugen cai not for noise, bling, or power, but mainly for response. getting extra power is a bonus, as i said. although 5kw extra may sound like a lot, on a later date i also did dyno tests when i added header and exhaust and again it improved power. so the proof is still there, even if the dyno was not done on the same day, that my car at least made more power than previous times. figures aren't too important for me... all i want to know for myself is that i gained kw and that's all that matters.

ultimately, its the feel of the drive that i get that is important. if i had the same DIY mod on stock box and put on a mugen cai and did not feel any difference, then i would say mugen is crap... but the fact that i felt for myself there was a huge difference is what is important to me.

yep, i dont doubt the mugen gear works :) not really a honda boy just yet but they do have a good reputation! do they also run an oiled filter?

yes they do

lol at lil_foy.. yeah i bought the cold air intake for the hectik vtec noise...
i didnt buy it for the increased airflow, smoother revs, and noticable torque increase at high rpms...

may i ask what CAI did you sell to go back to stock?...

bump - stage 2 completed.

IMo you could have done beta

lol so show me how its done

i reckon rubber is the way to go, my driveway is munching it

seems a bit low if u place it under there... don't ppl usually place the feed close to where the radiator is? the corner of the mouth of the front bar?

yeh but it wont get any ram fx behind the indicator assembly... im chasing positive pressure in the airbox

no, not behind the indicator...
feeding out of the big mouth in the middle of the front bar where the radiator gets the air... ppl feed the opening of the piping there so it gets direct air from the front... the opening of the piping is not behind anything...

ahhh sorry mate i getcha:) im pretty sure i tried to get the 100mm ducting in there but couldnt package it without touching the radiator which wont help the cool air any! im seriously thinking about redoing it with rubber which should be a bit more robust. also wanna find some kind of funnel to widen the opening

bigger priority at the mo is stereo & alarm, going to try get that done soonish. going away for a work trip soon so it might have to wait until i get back but il def keep this thread up to date with whats on the car :)

injen 4tw??or nah

this has probably been mentioned already but u may aswell get a K&N or Spoon replacement filter n ITR intake arm to make matters easier n better... but it'll cost ya!

I have a very similar 100mm setup in mine with a Spoon filter, decided to go behind the indicator tho, otherwise ur airbox fills up with sand n flys pretty damn quick.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by toix

lol so show me how its done

i reckon rubber is the way to go, my driveway is munching it

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http://www.team-integra.net/forum/di...PagePosition=1

thats how its done mine is exactly the same as the 1 in the link plus after market pod in box :cool:

link dont work, please tryagain, i want to see how its actually done

Quote:

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Originally Posted by yellows2k

link dont work, please tryagain, i want to see how its actually done

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woops broken link

http://www.team-integra.net/forum/di...PagePosition=1

diy ice box

ok, cool, looks nice, my problem is that im running the b18c in an ek, so i dont have access to any forward "air" like that