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Hey guys
after driving my boys for a night out in town in my EG5, i realised how
sluggish the b16a is with a full load of passengers.
so my question is how hard is the conversion to a b18 when my car is already running a b16.
Is it just swap over the bare engine and use my b16 harness or is there more to it..
many help appriciated.
(cant afford a H series let alone a K series)
slap a b20 bottom end dude.. best upgrade u can do to a B16a
AgreedQuote:
Originally Posted by GSi_PSi
Quote:
Originally Posted by GSi_PSi
x3 its also cheaper to do rather then a b18c... you get extra torque and a 2L displacement rather then a 1.8Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeForce
it is a straight swap using all your b16a parts
it is very easy to do
all you need is a complete b18c
b20 would be another level as to been cheaper thats a grey area
depending who you know ,how much you pay etc
yep as the guys above, might need to extend a wire or two to account for sensors in different positions compared to the b16
be warned though, my b18 is sluggish with a full load too(start to notice it after having more than one passenger)
honda's are just slow
oh ive driven an b18c with a full load, im satisfied with what is puts out compared to the b16a
fair enough, guess it just comes down to weight
my mates were big tall aussies 100+kg each, no idea how they fit on the front seat let alone the rear hehe
hav u considered h2b?
Quote:
Originally Posted by NSPYRE
i think he is on a budget
b18c can be had for 800-1k
yeah, he hasQuote:
Originally Posted by NA-tastic
Spend the little extra and start with the b20vtec
ah k, my bad. i assumed b18c wld be around the $2.5k - $3k mark.. didnt kno they can be had for only that much
yeah a bottom block is about $500 or so
B20 Kit about $300
SO if you do all the work could be had for less than $1k
if he is asking this q's i highly doubt he can do the labour himselfQuote:
Originally Posted by Limbo
and tuning cost too
have you thought about turbo?
wow complete b18c for 800-1000 bux? were? ill start to question the condition at those prices...
LSVTEC then.... with B16a pistons, that would be torquey
yerr ls/vtec..
b18b block 100-300buxs
ls/vtec kit 200-300buxs
use your b16a head, cams, gears, valves blahblahblahb
use your box aswell add lsd
big tube headers 800-1k
and your set
to the OP: i presume this is your daily driver?
back wen i had a DA9 i was kicking around the idea of LSVTEC. i didnt go thru with it becos there were numerous concerns i had:
- the rod to stroke ratio on a b18a/b block is not suitable for the revv's that a b16a head can reach
- no oil squirters on b18a/b blocks
i dont kno much about the oil squirters, but its something along the lines of the b18c block has an upward facing nozzle under each piston that sprays oil onto the underside of the piston. it assits with keeping the piston cool or something like that..
Rod Stroke ratio is for a B20/LSVTEC is 1.54:1 , a B18C is 1.58:1 there isnt that great of a difference.... again people are fed poo by the internet... tell me this.... how come no one ever talks about the K24 Engine and how shit the rod/stroke ratio is?... because they have the same 1.54:1
what do u mean by the Revs a B16a head can reach lol?
Run a PCV breather system your frank conversion will be fine.
I think the BYP B20 have shown how reliable/quick a Frank engine can be
LS/Vtec are a sweet engine make nice torque and are very cheap to buy and as Zeforce has listed you can use any of the B16a/B18c style pistons
Rough Comp Ratio's
PR3 Piston in 81mm has 11.9 to 1
P73 JDM Piston in 81mm has 12.2 to 1 these will give you the best quench
P30 JDM Piston in 81mm has 12.2 to 1
P72 Piston in 81mm has 10.5
All you need is a set of ARP rod bolts the B20/LS/Vtec conversion kit just use a B18B as most of the B18a engines will need a bore which adds to the cost
and the pistons listed you can land from an Ebay seller for around $200-240aud.Gsi-Psi Zeforce are all on the right track dont listen to most of the crap on the net
about oil squirters and rod/stroke ratio keep revs to around 8200-8400 and you will have an engine that gives you alot of fun and lives
I think there is a little more than just a quick slap together than most of you are mentioning.
There is a lack of a few things from a quick browse of the thread, a tune, a chipped ecu, new clutch, machining work, head servicing if need be, gasket kit, fluids, misc work for install, breather setup, etc
What is with the internet nowdays and talk of rod ratios? I always see this come up. Yes it matters, are we circuit racing? no, is it going to make much of a difference if you drive like you should and maintain your car? no. When your building a motor with high goals for power, then come talk about rod ratio's and its effect on engine longevity and power.
Piston squirters - I dont run them, I don't see a point unless the car is seeing extended RPM's for a long time. Even then, in a motor with that purpose, it will have forged pistons which can handle the heat and abuses of such work.
I think best option is find a B18 and rebuild the bottom to freshen it up.
In my opinion it's hardly worth the hassle. If you want power when you're lugging around passengers it's probably best to just upgrade to either 6 or 8 cylinders.
The most fun in your car is probably had with just yourself or one passenger anyway, right?
^and then have to deal with the fuel consumption? :p
exactly.. so your best and bang for buck bet is ls/vtec.. learn more about the frank setup its been done like a million times on h-t.
pm zeforce or gsipsi or fatboys39 and Benson even tho they didnt do lsvtec conversion and did b20vtec like myself they would like an allround knowledge about the setup
I know of 2 LS/Vtec setup that where done over the last couple of years 1 had PR3 pistons STD P72 head ITR JDM header 2.5" exhaust tuned on Crome made 126kw it was in a DC2 VtiR the other had P73 81.75mm ebay pistons ported P72 head BC Spec4 cams DTR custom header made 140 something kw on Insights dyno also tuned on Crome the 2nd engine was sold less head not that long ago for $1500 which I think was not bad for what was done to it.These engines are very good even in a race car there is one in the Phil Parsons rarely seen EG IPRA car i know they make very good power with that one and it is very reliable.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chr1s
b16a redlines at 8,200rpm.. b18a/b redlines at 6,750 or so..Quote:
Originally Posted by GSi_PSi
peak power is at 7,600rpm for b16a from memory..? i just dont think the b18a/b were built to handle that sort of rpm WITHOUT replacing parts. the OP stated he doesnt want to spend a whole lot so i imagine he doesnt have the budget to do that..
Rod bolts and maybe head studs is all you really need
nah its just my daily driver so i dont intend to build a monster BXX engine...
Determining how hard a motor can spin isn't by where it makes its peak power, it's the geometry/fixtures of the bottom end internals.Quote:
Originally Posted by NSPYRE
I know where you are coming from though and you are right, I would be replacing the rod bolts and headstuds, the rods will be fine for an acceptable RPM limit.
These B20 threads always get out of hand, if you guys want answer or a discussion, make a new thread and we'll have a ball :).
When your converting an LSVTEC/B20 if you half the brain of knowing how to convert them to vtec, then you should also know to change the appropriate rod bolts (maybe even freshen it up with new rings,bearings etc) as they are the weaklink in the bottom ends...
Let me just summarisee..
Sounds like the OP doesnt wanna mess around with frank conversions has around 3 grand to spend this will net you a healthy VTiR B18C2 along with ecu, oils, lil parts , installation labour etc Thats a realistic figure
selling off ur old B16a with gearbox should lower the cost.
wouldnt it be more around the 5k area fitted & drive-away GSi?????
^ yeah bordo ur probly right, if the dude gets jippped on labour then it will come to that
Which he prob might
and what would be an acceptable rpm limit for stock rods & sleeves?Quote:
Originally Posted by Chr1s
you can take it to about 8,500rpm, depending on your cam profile safely...with changed rod bolts properly pressed in
b16+b20 and you got a weapon
^^^
Tis what I'm doing this year :D