DIY Ignition Control Module (ICM) Replacement. Lots of Pics!

Disclaimer: The following are provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself. nor the original writer, nor Ozhonda
take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!

DIY Ignition Control Module (ICM) Replacement
By specialst

Firstly. this guide is written specifically for the DC2/4 Honda Integra with a B series engine. May also apply to others as well.

This guide will purely focus on how to replace the ICM

If this guide has help you, please acknowldge it by leaving a comment and rep point.

Ignition Control Module 101-
The ICM is a component inside the distributor.

Has your ICM failed?
Before concluding that your ICM has failed, it is best that you follow the Honda Service manual for diagnostic tests:

Refer to section “23-95” of the 1994 Honda Integra service manual for instructions to test your Ignition Coil. Note: vehicles with failed ignition coil wont ever start up. A coil is either working or failed unlike the ICM.

Refer to section “23-96” of the 1994 Honda Integra service manual for instructions to test your ICM. Also have a read of EdgeAutos guide which has some nice photos as well. It can be found here: http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=56224

www.Team-Integra.net also has an awesome article on the “Distributor Anatomy”. It can be found here: http://www.team-integra.net/forum/di...g+Common+Topic

Do not automatically assume your ICM has failed. Other common causes of engine cuts include; the main relay and fuel pump. These will not be discussed here. The search tool is your friend!

These failing parts are becoming a victim of age as well as normal wear and tear. A failed ICM usually occurs when the engine is HOT. It often results in the following symptoms:
• Engine cut while driving. You will still be rolling with little or no power
• Engine fails to start after engine cut. But drives fine once engine is let to cool.
• Tachometer gone crazy and/or unresponsive and/or jumping

Next is a peek at my replacement ICM.

The Replacement ICM
I am sure that there are other brands out there but for this session I have:

Brand: Tridon
Part: Ignition Control Module
Part No: TIM032
Application: B18B2
Origin: Australia
Warranty: Lifetime (The OEM part is made by NEC and OKI which only lasted 15 years =P)
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...h_Picture1.png

Next is a guide to replacing the ICM.

Replacing Your ICM

What You Will Need:
Replacement ICM
8mm, 10mm and 12mm spanner
Impact Screw Driver with Bits
Hammer
Phillips Head Screw Driver
Solvent & Rags
Thread Locker
Probably other stuff I have missed


Getting to the ICM:

1) Disconnect the battery at the negative terminal.

2) Remove Distributor Cap by undoing the three 8mm hex bolts. Do not use a screw driver despite the look! You will end up rounding them off!
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...izzy3Bolts.png

3) Remove the rotor. Use an Impact Screw Driver to remove the screw holding it on. You will need an Impact driver because its on damn tight!!
NB. If you cannot see the rotor screw behind the dizzy - its because the motor + pistons arnt in the "correct position"
I dunno if its TDC or what but to get around this:
Replace and screw on the rotor cap and briefly crank the engine by turning the ignition key. This will change the rotors position (BYM's way lol). Repeat until you can see the rotor screw (rotor will be in the identical position as the photo).
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...RotorScrew.png

4) Squeeze off the dust cover by its sides.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...verSqueeze.png

5) Hello ICM!!!!
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...zyHelloICM.png

Removing the ICM

6) It is imperative to note the position of the wires and terminal connections!!! Take many photos if needed. Take the wires off.

7) Remove the two screws that hold the ICM and slide the ICM out.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...yICMScrews.png

Preparing the OEM Heat Sink for Re-Use

8) Remove the screws attaching the heat sink attached to the OEM ICM. Put the OEM ICM aside.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...DizzyICMHS.png

9) Clean the heat sink thoroughly with an appropriate solvent and rag! I used Methylated Spirits. Ensure the surface is clean and free of all contaminants.

Preparing the new ICM

10) Clean the ICM thoroughly with an appropriate solvent and cloth! Again I used Methylated Spirits. Ensure the surface is clean and free of all contaminants.

11) Spread a liberal amount of Conductive Grease onto the heatsink. Covering the entire surface.

12) Re-attach the greased Heat Sink and ICM using the same screws. Clean any excess grease away.

Note: You MUST use conductive grease between the Heat Sink and ICM. The same way your PC’s CPU and Heatsink have that conductive paste.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...MAssembled.png

Re-Assembling
13) Slide the ICM back into the distributor housing same way it came out.

14) Screw the ICM tightly bak into place. Use medium blue Thread Locker to ensure the screws stay nice and tight. You do not want the ICM coming loose whilst your revving it the motor to a heavenly 8200 rpm!!! Did I mention; USE THREAD LOCKER!

15) Attach the correct wires to their terminals (you took photos... right?)
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...sOnScrewed.png

16) Put the dust cover back on firmly into place.

17) Put the Rotor back on the same position it came off.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...ustCoverOn.pnghttp://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...zzyRotorOn.png

18) Affix Rotor Screw. Again USE THREAD LOCKER and do it up nice n tight. A dizzy rotor coming loose at 8200 rpm is sure to make you CRY! You ain’t in heaven anymore mate! Welcome back to reality.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...RotorScrew.png

19) Bolt the dizzy cap bak on. This one just needs normal tightness. Do Not Over Tighten!
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...M/th_Dizzy.jpg

Congratulations! You have changed your Ignition Control Module and also saved yourself from buying a new $700 dizzy from Honda.

PDF: http://www.megaupload.com/?d=OVTKKV03

Good Job!

thanks mate.

please comment if u like it (and if u dont like it) and feel free to leave comments and questions.

Great job mate, very detailed DIY, should make it easy for alot of others to do this job too

Thanks man.
Much appreciate the positive feedback. I try to do as many write up's as i can.

would a car stalling randomly but can be fired back up first go without troubles be a sign of a failing ICM?

Yes,exactly what happens!

Stupid ICM!!

Noob question, does a DA9 have an ICM

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Irinkanji

Noob question, does a DA9 have an ICM

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It does.

i finally got around to changing my ICM, it wasnt as easy as this one though, i had to remove the whole distributor!!

Damn,so U had to set the timing yeah?

nah i just marked all 3 distrubutor mounting points with a permanent marker, then i took it out for a spin and came back with a big :) because now my tacho works properly

Oh sweet,too easy!

it was much easier than i though it would be, if u have a pen and paper and make note of where everything goes then u cant go wrong!

Too easy!! :)

Im glad it worked out for you grifty - many other fellow honda owners will start needing to replace their ICM's purely due to age.

Fortunately I was able to do it all on the car and didnt need to remove the dizzy.

Out of curiosity - Did u remove the dizzy due to engine bay space being an issue?

Also folks. I forgot to mention that if you cannot see the rotor screw behind the dizzy - its because the motor + pistons arnt in the "correct position" (I dunno if its TDC or what but...)

Simply replace and screw on the rotor cap and briefly crank the engine by turning the ignition key. This will change the rotors position (BYM's way lol). Repeat until you can see the rotor screw (rotor will be in the identical position as the photos).

Added to the original article.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by specialst

Im glad it worked out for you grifty - many other fellow honda owners will start needing to replace their ICM's purely due to age.

Fortunately I was able to do it all on the car and didnt need to remove the dizzy.

Out of curiosity - Did u remove the dizzy due to engine bay space being an issue?

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i had to remove the dizzy because the bolts holding in the ICM heatsink were outside on the bottom of the dizzy, if they werent done up that friggin tight i could of taken out the ICM without removing the dizzy.

Hey grifty what do you mean you used a permanent marker? I replaced mind but it didnt fix the porblem, but the ICM supplied was wrong as it didnt have the 3 mounting holes. Ive ordered a new one, but to me it seems weird that fter replacing the ICM, even with a wrong one, I have the exact same problem

Quote:

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Originally Posted by saad

Hey grifty what do you mean you used a permanent marker? I replaced mind but it didnt fix the porblem, but the ICM supplied was wrong as it didnt have the 3 mounting holes. Ive ordered a new one, but to me it seems weird that fter replacing the ICM, even with a wrong one, I have the exact same problem

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well the dizzy can be moved to either side to advance or retard the timing. I did not want to screw up my timing settings so i just marked where the dizzy's position was in relation to the head so when i removed it i knew where to put it back after i had finished working on it. ill get some pics for u in a min.

here you go

the green lines are the marks i made

http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/4309/image0230.jpg

Oh damn, didnt know that changing the distributor position side to side changes the timing! Damn! I somehow need to get the timing fixed now...

Also is it possible that the tacho feed wire is just loose, so when we hit high rpms, the tacho signal is not being sent, causing it to go crazy

Quote:

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Originally Posted by saad

Oh damn, didnt know that changing the distributor position side to side changes the timing! Damn! I somehow need to get the timing fixed now...

Also is it possible that the tacho feed wire is just loose, so when we hit high rpms, the tacho signal is not being sent, causing it to go crazy

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i dont think the tacho signal could be loose, if it wasnt connected then you wouldnt get any rpms on your cluster. I think your best bet is to try and possibly borrow an aftermarket tacho and see if it does the same thing.


have a look on your dizzy if u can see the markings of where the bolt used to sit before you removed it, if so then just move it back untill they all line up.

Anyone know what ICMs are compatible across Honda engines? My B18C is hesitating when it is hot and on a light throttle load and I have a spare Concerto distributor (it was on my wreck DA9!) which I know is working and I have removed the ICM.

In the service manual the B18C and the B18B have the same distributors but when I looked up parts on the Supercheap website they have a different ICM part number listed for the C and B? the B18B has the same part number as the D16A8, D15Z1, D16Y1, B18A and costs around $70-$110 but the B18C part is over $250!

So can I just use the Concerto ICM? will it screw anything up if I just test it? Visually it looks like it will fit, although I haven't taken out the ICM in the B18C yet.

I am going to post this in the Technical section as well just in case people who are 'in the know' dont check how to do things they are already experienced with!

BTW a loose connection on the ICM will cause a crazy tacho, I had to fix mine on the DA6 recently, simply pulled off all the connectors, tightened them with some pliers and put them back on, voila! no more bouncing tach and the car runs smoother too.

before changing around the ICM i suggest you remove the old thermal paste from you B18c ICM and put some new thermal paste on and try it out. The common problem that happens with ICM's is that the thermal paste over years dries out which causes the ICM to overheat and cause problems.

Also be sure to have a long enough bit on your impact screwdriver as mine was a little too stubby to fit between the rotor and dust cover.

where did you buy conductive grease?

you can get it from PC stores, its called thermal paste.

It basically transfers heat from the ICM to the heatsink.

I still got a tube somewhere, 10 years old though, any good still?

should be as long as it hasnt dried out.

Use proper automotive thermal paste which comes with a new ICM. Computer thermal grease is definitely not the same thing in the long run. Just buy a new icm. Not worth rattling around especially with summer coming around the corner.

how did you guys take off the heat sink from the icm?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by nugget

how did you guys take off the heat sink from the icm?

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i have taken the screw out but the icm seems stuck to the heat sink..

Just a question if any1 knows, my car still runs sweet(dc2r) even after 180k kms, now i dont know if the icm has been replaced in its life or not.... brand is hitachi and looks stock i removed the icm from the heatsink and it doesnt have any thermal paste on it so i will proceed to put some on, but my question is how often should the ICMs be changed?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dc2r-man

Just a question if any1 knows, my car still runs sweet(dc2r) even after 180k kms, now i dont know if the icm has been replaced in its life or not.... brand is hitachi and looks stock i removed the icm from the heatsink and it doesnt have any thermal paste on it so i will proceed to put some on, but my question is how often should the ICMs be changed?

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when they fk up

Thanks for the write up! Car died randomly one afternoon and ending up being this issue, wouldn't have guessed it without this.