CU2 Brakes

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03-02-2010, 09:26 PM
MKI4EVA

CU2 Brakes

Hi Guys,

Our manual lux has now clocked up 2,000km and I'm still not happy with the brakes.

The initial bite is pretty poor and twice now I've had to hit the ankers with very slow response.

At 1,000km service we asked for the handbrake slack (dealer can do this for you) to be taken up hoping that might reduce the travel on the rear brakes so that the front brakes would take up more of the brake pressure but it hasn't changed by any noticeable margin.

Anyone out there feeling the brakes are pretty weak?

I haven't establish whether the pads work better at high temp but I suspect not.

I guess it could be due to the extra weight.
04-02-2010, 07:18 AM
Type R Positive

Yeah mate, I've always had that feeling about the brakes. I've got over 40k kms on the clock now with no real improvement, but you do get used to it.
I'll be getting some decent pads when the time comes.
04-02-2010, 08:41 AM
MKI4EVA

I've got abit of experience with moding and working on brakes with older cars and I honestly feel theres something amiss with it.

I find the pressure isn't very progressive. I need to get an understanding of the hydraulic system in the euro to find if theres anywhere you can pre-load pressure to the fronts. (doubtfull as the newer stuff is all auto adjust).

It's such a shame because the car does go/handle quite well at the limit.
04-02-2010, 08:56 AM
revolution

I don't see what you are complaining about. I own a CL9 and driven a CU2. The CL9 brakes are way worse (Not to mention OEM CL9 rotors warp). The Euro is not a sports car afterall and the OEM CU2 brakes seem quite decent for normal driving.
04-02-2010, 04:21 PM
tony1234

Nothing a set of decent aftermarket pads won't fix
04-02-2010, 05:49 PM
Type R Positive

Quote:

Originally Posted by revolution

I don't see what you are complaining about. I own a CL9 and driven a CU2. The CL9 brakes are way worse (Not to mention OEM CL9 rotors warp). The Euro is not a sports car afterall and the OEM CU2 brakes seem quite decent for normal driving.

Blah blah blah.
Keep this to the CU2 guys hey?
04-02-2010, 11:04 PM
chikaboom

My car's handbrake needs 8 clcks to hold still on easy hills... and feels loose too. I asked the dealership bout this but they told me if they adjust the handbrake to make it feel tighter, it is going to wear out the rear brake lining. Is this true? shaits...
05-02-2010, 01:46 AM
billy118

It seems that u do need to apply a fair bit of pressure to the brakes to actually feel it but i guess it might be cuz the cars heavy or probably because i don't do much heavy braking and the brakes have not yet settled in yet...might consider aftermarket pads once the originals are worn out...anyways does anyone know how long the factory pads might last approximately considering that a conservative driving style is used most of the time??

As for the handbrake i usually only go 6 clicks and that even feels loose on flat surfaces...i read on some posts in this forum that its bad for the hand brake brake spring or something if you go over 5 to 6 clicks...i once drove the car for about 20 meters before i realized my handbrake was still engaged because the warning noise came on as for some reason it didn't feel like the handbrake was even engaged.
05-02-2010, 07:21 AM
Type R Positive

I've actually noticed VSA (anti lock braking) kicking in a few times, something I never really did with the CL9.
It's certainly the pads, but zero dusting is good I guess.
05-02-2010, 08:51 AM
MKI4EVA

guys i strongly recommend getting the dealer to take the hand brake slack up........it was insane before where you do a decent amount of clicks and the car rolled abit before halting.

True I find very little brake dust...........
05-02-2010, 11:36 PM
revolution

Quote:

Originally Posted by Type R Positive

Blah blah blah.
Keep this to the CU2 guys hey?

*Rolls Eyes* Yea keep on blahing.

OP: Slotted rotors should make a hell of a difference and probably your best bet if you want more stopping power.
06-02-2010, 09:02 AM
MKI4EVA

Quote:

Originally Posted by revolution

*Rolls Eyes* Yea keep on blahing.

OP: Slotted rotors should make a hell of a difference and probably your best bet if you want more stopping power.

isn't slotted rotors more to dispurse heat than increase braking power on std pads.
09-02-2010, 05:32 AM
MrHeeltoe

Just FYI, the CU2 and the CL9 and CL7 all use the same front rotors and pads (at least the same sizes). They also have the same master cylinder spec. The pistons in the rear calipers on the CU2 are larger by about 4mm one source tells us.
09-02-2010, 06:14 AM
limleong

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrHeeltoe

Just FYI, the CU2 and the CL9 and CL7 all use the same front rotors and pads (at least the same sizes). They also have the same master cylinder spec. The pistons in the rear calipers on the CU2 are larger by about 4mm one source tells us.

This is not true. What you have said may be true for some markets only.

For NZ:

- 2006 facelift CL9 has 300mm Front Ventilated Rotor and 300mm Rear Solid Rotor.

- 2009+ CU9 has 320mm Front Ventilated Rotor and 305mm Rear Solid Rotor.

In theory CU2 has better brake specification but that may be offset by its weight increase over the CL9.
09-02-2010, 07:25 AM
Type R Positive

Quote:

Originally Posted by MKI4EVA

isn't slotted rotors more to dispurse heat than increase braking power on std pads.

Slotting increases the bite from the pads, as well as de-glazing them. New pads are a much cheaper way to go.
09-02-2010, 09:52 AM
MKI4EVA

Quote:

Originally Posted by Type R Positive

Slotting increases the bite from the pads, as well as de-glazing them. New pads are a much cheaper way to go.

hahhaha after you mentioned about the brake dust I've been noticing and your absolutely right.........even after a hoon session theres no barke dust.

man the CU2's really move when your on an empty tank. It's like it was built to run on empty : ).