Printable View
hi im looking for a few guideline pictures on spraying fenders.
im looking for a picture that shows that
-the acrylic paint coat is too 'dry' as im unsure how it looks like
- the ideal first and second paint coat before applying another coat.
also, is it recomended i initiate sanding with 120 gritt sand paper
then move to 600
and to finish off before clear coate using 1200?
thanks in advance
Forgive me for saying this, but if you're post reflects the level of your experience then you should not be attempting to paint your own car without getting some experience with setup, paint mixing, gun control and technique on scrap panels first.
Peter
Too true Peter!
are you doing it with cans??
sounds like it.
It will feel like fine sandpaper under your hand when you rub over it and will lack any shineQuote:
Originally Posted by cheapdouchebag
The first coat is usually just a skim, not much coverage and you can still see the underlying layer. This will allow it to dry quickly, usually 10 minutes, and then you apply another 'wetter' coat but still leaving some underlayer. Apply at least two more coats that should have a natural 'shine' to them. When the solvents evaporate the paint is dry. Allow at least 2-5 days before wet sanding with 1200-1500 W&D and then buffing. That's it in a nutshell but, as I said previously, there really is more to it than that for a top job.Quote:
Originally Posted by cheapdouchebag
Many people think having your car sprayed is expensive and they look for cheaper alternatives. The cost of spraying is in the expertise of the sprayer not the consumables required to do the job, although when you add up the costs (typically below) it can be a false economy.
Compressor and spray equipment $300 - $1000 depending on size of compressor and quality of spray gun
Wax & Grease Remover 4L $25
Paint (primer, colour coat, top coat) 4L each $200 - $300
Sandpapers different grades $10 - $20
Masking tapes $30
Paper or plastic $10 - $50
Respiratory Equipment (mask, filters, etc) $200
Cutting compound, swirl remover, polish and wax $100 - $200
Rotary Orbital Sander $150
Photos
http://i38.tinypic.com/4h7adu.jpg
From this ...
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s...h/IMG_0068.jpg
to this ...
http://i34.tinypic.com/nz4p6g.jpg
off the gun finish (3-5 coats, no clear coat) ...
http://i33.tinypic.com/dp8zth.jpg
to finish with this (sanded, cut, buffed and polished) ...
http://i36.tinypic.com/9a1gk6.jpg
Hope this helps you
Peter
just a quick Q peter...is there a clear coat on there in that last pic? or is that just properly rubbed out colour coats?
hit up honda-tech,
there are plenty ofpictures of DIYer's with a broad spectrum of experience(or lack of to)
To be honset. ive never painted a car before.Quote:
Originally Posted by jdm_b16a
but i have contributed to it. and im not planning to respraying my whole car, just my rear bummper and left fender to B63P.
but i have used the paint gun before, and mixed the paint with thinners etc.
What i haev ready to use is everything besides the gravity feed paint gun, and the consumables. I'm going to hand sand my parts rather than use orbital sander.
I have a orbital bufffer, will that work when im cutting or will it be too weak? I as i said am going to paint it B63P (oem eg blue) and i have a green acrylic cutting compound that hasnt been used (one of the random things my old man has) will this do the trick or is a different one advised?
what is the best way to avoid this feeling when painting? is it helpful to overlap each spray with half the length of the paint spray that feeds out from the nozzle?Quote:
Originally Posted by jdm_b16a
EDIT: P.s those pictures are extremely helpful thank you! only one more question, with the primer coat, when u rub firmly on the primer, should some come off? is that an indicator that the prime coat is too thick?
It has two coats of clear (maybe three) but has been wet sanded with 1500 W&D, then I used medium swirl remover on the ROS to cut it back (flatten it), then light swirl remover, then the glaze, then final wax.Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonGilholme
http://i38.tinypic.com/5155hi.jpg
http://i38.tinypic.com/4q6fyd.jpg
From my build thread ...
- Meguiars Medium Cut Swirl Remover on the white pad
- Pinnacle Medium Swirl Remover on the white pad
- Pinnacle Light Swirl Remover on the black pad
- Pinnacle Final Glaze on a new black pad
- Meguiars Hi-Tech Yellow Wax
Peter
Is it a Rotary? Does it have a variable speed function? If no, then don't use it, you will cut the paint real quick. If yes, then ...Quote:
Originally Posted by cheapdouchebag
Apply cutting compound to the pad (not a lambswool pad but a foam pad as in my photos), rub it into a small area then turn the ROS on at "3" and slowly work around the panel. Don't be tempted to go too far. You can also do this by hand but it will take longer. Avoid the edges as you will definitely cut the paint away. Move up to "5" on the ROS but watch the surface.
If it's Septone Cutting or Buffing Compound, and it has been sealed (still soft inside) then it is good stuff. When you buff by hand you'll know when you have a good 'cut' when you're hand that is doing the buffing starts to slip over the surface (no resistance - surface is polished). When using a ROS be careful and watch the surface so you don't 'burn' the paint.Quote:
Originally Posted by cheapdouchebag
Yes, you overlap but you have to have the right combination on the gun (fluid, air and nozzle opening for spray pattern) so the paint is 'wet' on the panel without being too much so that it runs. It's a fine balance and you only achieve it with practice.Quote:
Originally Posted by cheapdouchebag
Some will come off when you wet sand, but use lots of fresh water and some mild detergent in the bucket to make the W&D slippy over the paint (removes clogs in the paper from the painted surface). No its not necessarily as sign that it is too thick. Three coats of primer is only microns thick anyway. If you make the primer (or paint) too wet it will run - it it doesn't run then everything is sweet but it will take longer for the solvents to evaporate. The biggest mistake is putting the subsequent coats on too early. This doesn't allow the underlayer to dry and causes all sorts of problems later. Allow sufficient time for each layer to dry.Quote:
Originally Posted by cheapdouchebag
Peter
That's the Harvard Blue Pearl paint isn't it, same as was on my EH9 sedan when I bought it.Quote:
Originally Posted by cheapdouchebag
Harvard Blue Pearl Clearcoat B-63P 92-95 Civic
Much more difficult than a flat colour. You have to apply a clear coat over the pearl (it's what they call "clear over base") and do lots of cutting and polishing to achieve a good result. Good luck.
Peter
Its me again.
ive gotten ahold of some paint, and prepsol and some thinner from my automotive paintshop ''paintmobile''. is the pearl already in my colour? is it not just prime, colour, clear (with inbetween sanding of course)
Also, the unopened cutting compound. not sure if its septone or not.
it goes ''MAX CUTTERS - Green acrylic compound (cutting compound machine grade).'' is it advisible to use this one? price says its $7.95 for a tub about the size of a large vegimite container. will that be enough for one sedan bumper and a left fender?
thank you sooo much you have clarified alot of grey areas for me Peter.
Yes, pearl is in the colour.
Yes, that should be heaps for cutting back.
Peter