:wave:anybody had any experience with this brand. cause its cheap does it mean they r crap???
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBX-I...item27a4df2b40
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:wave:anybody had any experience with this brand. cause its cheap does it mean they r crap???
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBX-I...item27a4df2b40
Byp boys used them on their b20 for yonks I think they are good
The boys didn't use OBX on their B-series, they used A-sports of TWM's on their B-series.
They're running OBX on their K-series but I don't know if they're the same quality.
I've only heard good experiences with OBX.
:)
and its cheap, bang for buck.
The rest is on your tuner if you can get its full-potential.
only positive i've heard with OBX is the LSD...
have a go with it, be the pioneer for the rest of us :)
only if u refund my money if its shit all of u guys can chip in:thumbsup:
Yeah we've been using the el cheapo OBX 52mm ITB's. Abit custom work needed to make the OEM tps sesnor work, drill and tap each runner for the vaccum log and get inventive with the fuel rail. Starts and idles in the morning 800-900rpm and idles once warm around 800-950rpm. Not like the TWM which idles around 1.5krpm sticky throttle and etc. Bang for buck ITB's.
It would be good to see how long they last until they need adjustment
Can you get me some pics where the throttle actually bolts to the lower half of the manifold?
i think someone in Sydney is running a set on his/her b series
http://img543.imageshack.us/img543/6831/dsc0846.th.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by Chr1s
^ Life saver.
I'm trying to see if it's possible to fit the 52mm throttles onto the B series adapter.
For b series they need adjusting. For k series, from the obx i've used they didnt need any adjusting.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chr1s
what of the itb's would need adjusting though? throttle plate itself?
Yeah, they can go out of sync and all that.
Fatboyz - Do you know if there is different series of OBX itb's? They claim 48mm for B series, from what I've heard they are actually 43mm or someting at the plate, which is quite misleading and 52mm (for K series) if going by their false info would be smaller again.
What kind of filters would you need to use for these?
Sock filters, or you can use an airbox with a traditional intake.Quote:
Originally Posted by mnc
thanks 4 all the info guys alot of info i can work with wen i get the money or the cars run in i think ill give them a go
ahh thanks! so thats what they are called. Sock filters.Quote:
Originally Posted by geeang
I had to call up 'UNI-Filter' and get some custom sock filters made up for my quads. decided running them in a box all the time is weak haha I don't know how people run them open though. if u happen to drive down a dirt road or on a really wet day, wouldn't there just be too much risk for damage... I guess, not many people would run them open on a daily.
Why is running them in a box weak? It's the best way to run them.
Sock filters over them defeats the purpose of a velocity stack.
Having the sock filters on the trumpets makes little to no difference on the performance compared to running them open.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chr1s
During tuning we did back to back runs with/without sock filters and the difference negligable.
If you ran a box w/ good ducting and a super high flow filter I'd see them running more efficiently though.
I cbf anymore
well i was gonna just have the cf box and run a cai off them would that b good enough i think running them open on the road would attract more attention than i want
We must have been doing somethig wrong then... :pQuote:
Originally Posted by geeang
Without any change to the tune, just removing socks adds 8hp to the wheels.
More found with further tuning.
FWIW, A well though out airbox is best... Done right you get the best of both worlds... Smooth idle, awsome response, excellent top end, solid mid range & quite
(while more powerful than open trumpets)
Quads + resonant plenum + short ram + CAI
An airbox that is not so well thought out generally does the opposite.
Chris, the OBX quad looks to be based (dead copy of) on the old design, now discontinued Toda quad.
Throttles are based on 4AG AE101 43mm, but are not genuine so can stick.
Butterfly is 43mm, intake throat can be up to 48mm
M&M are the only company I am aware of that comercially produced an airbox for this older style of quad throttle.
The plenums they sold were alloy.
(See pics below)
Toda's new quad is a different design & available as 45mm or 50mm throttles
http://www.mandm-honda.com/4thro_4983_011.jpg
http://www.mandm-honda.com/4thro_5349_011.jpg
http://www.mandm-honda.com/4thro_7307_011.jpg
I'm not sure if the M&M parts are still available but at least it'll give you the idea.
(Not too hard to do yourself if you're handy with a tig & a hack saw)
Cheers
Adrian
Thanks for the insight adrian, much appreciate it.
I've decided i'm going to get a set of these cheap OBX throttles and open them up abit/have custom throttle plates made in reach of a 50mm throttle plate, we'll see how thick the casting is on the actual throttles before I make any further statements haha
Apparently, now yes this is the internet :) - the new OBX throttles are 45mm at the plates, so they must be using the AE111 throttles? Which are 48->45mm from memory
Whats your experiance with 45mm throttles on a B series? More in particular 2.0L. Without pulling out the mathematical models and all that and ignoring, further from the port the larger throttle diameter is needed, etc. Lets say the old toda style throttles on a 2.0L, choke the system by far?
If they're AE101 or AE111 either way it's a bad idea... You've been told... LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by Chr1s
Re 45mm throttles... a rough guide is as follows:
45mm throttles for 1600cc~1800cc
50mm throttles for 1800cc~2200cc
The throttle size is also affected by VE, cams, compression, exhaust etc
Further the length play a big part... (Depending on airbox & arm length to filter box)
Without an airbox you need more manifold (quad) length, with an airbox, you get away with some surprising lengths.
Cyl head intake port shape plays a big role too.
& some quad sets are a lot better than others...
would it be worth adding quads if the car was turbo?
the nissan pulsar gti-r has individual throttle bodies and turbo...
i know that, but would their be significant gains in adding a set to a Honda motor which is turbo? Would it increase the mid-range or top-end? or maybe both?
It might be the most efficiant/Legal way to run them, but I want to hear the sound of them all the time :thumbsup: I have been running with the TWM air box (designed for the quads) for about 6 months now and, call me a doosh or wateva, but it just doesn't sound any different than a normal Single throttle/manifold setup. I want to hear it properly. Also doesn't quite look as good when you pop the hood :pQuote:
Originally Posted by Chr1s
I'll run the sock filters for a while and see how the car go's. I will always have the option of going bak to the airbox + SRI setup.
I'll post pics up this weekend hopefully :)
Goodluck with your Quads mate, if u get em working properly you will absolutely love em :thumbsup:
what ecu you running with your quads mate?
I'm using Neptune ECU. seems to be doing the job nicely so far :thumbsup:
this may sound like a silly question, but, if you installed itbs yourself could you drive the car to get it tuned? or would it just not drive properly?
If you got a base map to run it then yes.
If not then no.