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Idle Control Valve for a k20... I heard you can get block off plates and just loop the hose for the coolant or block it off.... is this true?
Would also like to know if the ICV(idle control valve) is needed if the car is going to be tuned with a hondata k pro? and will it effect the engine, idleling or performance etc???
Thanks
Would also like to know if the ICV(idle control valve) is needed if the car is going to be tuned with a hondata k pro?It's there for a reason, to give a smooth stable idle. If you remove it & the idle is shiite, be sure to blame yourself, not your tuner :p
Performance no, idling yes. The t/b blade is usually completely close and idle is control through "idle control valve". If removed you'll need to adjust the t/b blade and then re-calibrate the tps to suit.
Thanks for the reply, although being a experienced tuner yourself adrian, if it was in your hands could you get it to idle nice and smooth just like normal and not have any problems at all if you adjusted things and used your skills and knowledge??Quote:
Originally Posted by TODA AU
Its true,its true.
http://www.karcepts.com/shop/product.php?id_product=40
Calibrate the tps:
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...age-on-the-TPS
Then do this :)
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...-more-air-flow
What do U think of that DIY Adrian?
Thats pretty awesome beeza.
Why did you needed to remove the idle control valve anyway?
The idling is gonna be all lumpy. Not suited for daily driving.
Yes & No... You're always going to have issues with cold start & high engine loads at idle... A/C, heater, Head lights, Stereo etc...Quote:
Originally Posted by damo46
You can get it spot on when the engine's up to temp & there's no unusual loads... But when that changes, so will your idle.
Now you can get bye a little relying on the thermostatic idle up valve found on most K-series, combine this with ignition advance when cold instead of the factory retard & the cold start will be acceptable.
& if you have a K-Pro or Platinum Pro, you can change the mapping to TPS & yes, it'll be acceptable for a race car, but I wouldn't rate it for a daily driver. For a roadie, you need to keep the idle motor.
Why are you removing the IACV ?
(Are you having trouble getting a new on cause yours is busted & you have a crappy US throttle?)
Honestly....Quote:
Originally Posted by beeza
Epic Fail....
haha,Love ya Adrian!!!!! I LOVE U!!!!!
And the reason is?
Well??
Come on ya big hero!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by beeza
Okidokie… Got time to waste for a minute…
Normally I see stuff & say nothing… But since you insist
Attachment 14191
Apart from being ugly & just plain stupid, anyone who cannot fabricate this product themselves, really aught not be working on cars in the 1st place.
That said, why would you want to remove the idle speed motor?
All that will be achieved is poor cold start & idle.
Re DIY: Calibrating the Voltage on the TPS
The OP is talking about a K-series & deleting the IACV
To do this & get it to work, common sense tells you he’ll have an aftermarket programmable ECU.
That being the case, all you do is select TPS setup…
Kick the throttle to snap it shut, press enter, then select WOT, put your foot down & press enter…
Seems a bit easier than your method…
Further, the shear nuts in the OEM TPS can be removed easily with a pair of side cutters & a deft hand with zero damage to the sensor. (The angle grinder is overkill – big-time)
FWIW - For B & D-series, a real DIY technique that actually works…
You only need the following…
1 long flat blade screw driver (approx 8~10inches)
+ that which you would ajust the TPS...
(minimum requirement is 6 inch 3/8 extension & a small hammer)
Start the engine,
Once warmed up, put the blade of the screw driver on one injector
Put your ear against the other end.
Rev the engine & listen…
A clever person can now adjust the TPS to where it needs to be to within 0.1V of 4.5V without the use of a multimeter…
This’ll have you wondering for a while…LOL…
Upside is when you figure it out, you’ll have learnt something. :thumbsup:
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...-more-air-flow
This is just appalling. :thumbdwn: (It's not right & I don't like it :p)
The natural course of things in this world is to evolve, to adapt & become better.
But it seems you march to the beat of a different drum… LOL
I follow my intuition.
ROFL @ "Epic Fail" !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.....its been a while since i heard that word.
yahahahaha Homebrand mod (no offence)
Another tosser,joy.
Brett , be the bigger man and don't make stupid directed replies like that.
The point is , removing said idle control valve on any car will
remove your stabilized idle. So it won't idle properly. There in no point, unless you want your car
to sound like a old carbies v8 or a rotor !
Are you sure about that?Quote:
Originally Posted by bennjamin
Both my race and road car has no idle control valve. Idles perfect once at operating temperature. The only issue is cold start. Need to keep on the accelerator until it gets abit warm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benson
Yes , I'm sure of that. No cold idle control = it won't idle properly ( like oem - don't care if it idles perfect once it's warmed up !)
we are drifting off topic here - it's of no benefit
to remove. Unless every gram in weight matters ?
What do you mean doesnt idle properly? Hunts? Engine sounds different?
Yup,ya right!Quote:
Originally Posted by bennjamin
Cheers benny.
just making the point that removing said cold idle control is ofQuote:
Originally Posted by Benson
no real point and that it alters your cold start -
Sorry you are right to assume I could
of meant anything - this IS the Internet and it's hard to take things at the level which the op actually
meant.
Leave the idle valve on jony for the street, stop being tight. if you want it to run like a green valley race car then take it off
Listen to da MAN...
If you dont have one or find it hard to get one, you can run it without for the meantime. Can be easily made out of >1.6mm alloy and drill holes match up. But for street/daily duties it would be ideal to have one for cold starts and etc.