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Like the topic, which one should I go for my EH9 Civic? I will mainly use the car for daily duties, cruising and the occasional motorkhana/ wet skidpan. All of them are within my price range (3.5k give or take), am wondering which to do?
Btw, I want to retain PS and aircond; am looking at a H22A kit that can allow me to fit all that.
i think h22a or b18c.
might be pushing it just a tad bit withthat budget but i think its do-able, depending on how much DIY is involved.
all do-able if you do all the work yourself and can source all the parts you need at the right price.
keep your eye out in the parts forum as i will be posting up a complete h series swap kit for eg by this weekend, includes powersteering :)
With the B18C, B16A or turbo D can keep p/s and a/c. b18c turbo if you like turbo if you like na b20vtec or b18cR7
Yeah, but I've been looking at H22A kits where they allow you to keep p/s and a/c. I don't want to spend anymore money on the engine so if I go turbo/h22a/b18/b16 I'll do it once and be done. Currently I don't think I will go for the B16A because I like the torque pushing you back into the seat, hehehe.Quote:
Originally Posted by blabla
Turbo d, an u will b smiling pass all the B series swap guys :D, trust me, B16a2 aint all that... an torque?? what torque man??? hahahahaha, if ur aim is power dont look pass a turbo D16, a turbo d will pull much harder than a B16a2... an plus the torque from B16a compared to d isnt that much differance, mayb like 10-15nm, so i really doubt u will feel the g-forces....
B20VTEC!!!!!! check out the byp's motors, Protune (Chris), Toda, Belsgarage have a look at NVDVTC he is selling his motor thats seems pretty HECTIC from the specs.. You wont have the same amount of torque as a turbo. but if ur into na's like myself b20vtec. I have looked into s/c and turbo's i would rather s/c then turbo charge. Personal preference... The sound from a s/c and vtec yummm...
I will be doing a b20vtec in the near future with Protune
turboing a d-series engine you will soon become a mechanical engineer in the amount you will learn (which isnt a bad thing, know plenty of people building more bizzare things locally with alot less r&d out there for them)
forget the d. start off with a better platform ;)
future proof, go k20, bit dearer when you first punch in the numbers, but buying a blown k20 engine or gearbox with exceptional wear is alot less likely than say a b18cr that was made in the late 90s...
No AC and no powersteering; both features which i want in my daily!Quote:
Originally Posted by EK1.6LCIV
You can retain K20 with P/S Air-con in the DC2/R just need to relocate it as far as I know.
I'm not too sure whether you can still retain it in a different shell.
The K20 will be over your budget regardless if you do the work yourself or not, unless you're a fabricator.
Depending on which H22 you go with you can possibly fit it in that budget.
B18 half cut sourcing it out will be about roughly around ~5000 mark. (Can get it cheaper depending on sources and condition)
Your budget of 3.5k will most-likely get you a complete B16, or any of the MOTOR alone you posted up.
Here's a list of what I think will cost you the most in order:
K20 Swap
H22 Swap ~
B18 Swap ~
B16 Swap.
Then again its all about having the right sources, and how much you can DIY.
Good luck with the swap!
B18C in my opinion; simple, cheaper and ample aftermarket support. Though obtaining the motor + GB +wiring harness + drive shafts etc for $3.5k might be hard (but then again, it also depends on who you know I guess)
Parts are interchangeable with other B-series motors, fuel will be cheap as a daily and the ease of doing the installation whilst maintaining a/c and p/s. Pretty much plug-and-play.
H series, you may have to worry about drift shaft issues + poor gearing (from what I've heard)
Goodluck.
Djbinh is selling complete h22a motor + conversion parts to fit eg\eh for 3k, bargin I say, check it out
h22 ftw cuz
torque monster
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...=1#post2762452
ac lol (this isnt nevada or dubai)
ps steering isnt too much to fix up
I'd much rather an engine with a chain also, and for the price of most of the swaps up I can get brand new assembled heads and complete assembled blocks new (bseries), find a busted gbox at a wreckers, rebuild most of it, get some shafts ethier made up or new CDM, rest of the parts are pretty easy to find floating around
but if I was spending 6-8k for conversion bits for a b18c I'd be more inclinded buying a k20a as it's newer
B16a or b16b prob my fav engine. Cant get a more aggressive vtec changeover. Or perhaps k20z1, I saw ek9 with k20z1 with a violent vtec engage
put a 3" mendrel bent pipe and filter with a short ram on any vtec engine and it will give you that nice engagement "bite" lol
best of the lot is the b16a2, such a loud refined bite that makes people look wherever you are (fk I miss that em1 leighton lol)
to the above post about drivesahfts being 3.5k, that's oem, when you start talking of billet ones with removable abs rings they're about $1500 landed (these will run your 10s cars though and last for a long time)
Ill go for the B18cR if you have another 2k
LSD box, better engine, better gearing
b18cR all the way!
B18C OR B16B, H22a is pretties good but u get no aircon and also the parts for h22a is kind of hard to find. but as if B series it's ezy to get parts for.
yeah about D-series, they are not to bad with turbo, but that if u have the budget to do it up. i have a mate who Turbo his D-series and he spending 30k on the motor + parts. but in the US, D-series are the KILLER...........
some of the best build threads I read are with d-series in the usa, so well talked up threads, oil pumps are a great topic of discussion :)
For $3.5g I'd consider B16A swap or turbo D. H22 maybe, but it's a little more stuffing around I think.
i got a jdm sirg b18c swap for 3000... 500 for any other costs that might show up
I'd get a good condition second-hand turbo setup for your D-series, and if I could afford it a set of Suzuki Vitara pistons and the required kit to make it work.
It's pretty much this simple:
- Power
- Reliability
- Cheap
Pick 2 of those 3 things. You can't have all 3.
A violent crossover typically means a crap tune or a cheap vtec controller that's set wrong.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nairda
If I didn't already have a B and was starting over I'd go the H22. And down the line do a H2B conversion. Either that or build a B20 like I'm currently planning.
There's no replacement for displacement.