DC5 Type R/ Type S Modification Review

Hey Guys!! Just wanted to start a thread on what mods people have done to their DC5 Type R's and Type S's. Just a quick review on what modifications you have in your DC5 Integra and what everyone's opinions are on them. Hope this can become our DC5 bible on OZHONDA!:honda:
Here, ill start first!!

Car: 2006 Integra Type S
Vtec Engagement Window: 5800rpm - 8500rpm
MOD1: HPS Short Ram Intake
Country of Origin: USA
Approx Price: 250 AUD (posted)
Pro's: Reasonable price for an off the shelf SRI.
Really brings out the i-Vtec crossover you get with the B-series engines.
Slight power gains in vtec zone.
Better throttle response.

Con's: Heat Soak (same issue with all SRI's).
Slightly flimsy feeling, the bolt that holds the pipe to the engine is not quite perfect, so had
to do some slight changes to get it fixed on properly.

MOD2: Fusion Headunit (internal iPod docking)
Country of origin: New Zealand
Price: 99 AUD from Repco on special (RRP$299)
Pro's: Very convenient.
Great iPod User Interface on Headunit.
Charges iPod while playing.
Sounds Great!
Con's: Havent found any yet, will update if i find out.

MOD3: Genuine MUGEN cat-back exhaust system
Country of origin: Japan
Approximate Price: 1800 AUD (brand new)
Pro's: Not too loud.
Nice drone, acceptable but not annoying.
Increased mid end power and torque.
Cops dont even notice i have an aftermarket exhaust system on my car :honda:
Silent when you're just commuting, Loud when you're racing!
Perfect fit, no dramas at all.
Con's: Not much notable gains in VTEC zone.
Not quite as loud as other systems (e.g. Fujitsubo RM-01A), noticed that the SRI + Engine noise
was still overwhelming the sound of the exhaust.
Stock is 2" piping, Mugen is 2.15"

Hope this thread will help give all DC5 owners a slight idea of the variety of brands for our car around the world. And also a rough idea of what they will be expecting from different brands and products.

Have a great day!

DC5-S

you have a Type-S ? congratulations!, thats already a finely tuned street car.

Heatsoaks arent really an issue with SRI's. There are threads here about CAI vs SRI.

ive done a rear muffler swap with xforce cannon. i ended up losing torque in the bottom end :(

Yeah righto im bored lol

Car: 2002 DC5R
Mods:
-Buddy Club race header
-J's Racing 60RS catback exhaust
-ORC single plate clutch with light flywheel
-Hasport 60a billet engine mounts
-Buddy Club N+ coilovers
-Buddy Club adjustable rear camber arms
-Whiteline rear sway bar
-Mugen cold air intake
-Cusco type OS front + rear strut braces
-Nardi deep corn steering wheel with NRG short hub adapter + NRG quick release hub
-Hondata K-Pro ECU, tuned to 145kw at the front wheels

Cost: something ridiculous, not game to add it up

Future mods:
-JUN camshaft upgrade
-RBC intake manifold with larger throttle body

^^ take me for a spin i want to see what the ORC and good tune feels like :p Also how do you like the NRG Hub products?

as for me:

Stevan
DC5-S
- CRSX Header
- GruppeM intake
- Fuji Powergetter

Review: these three components give a lovely deep tone with a high distinction during Vtec Crossover without any raspiness whatsoever. According to Dyno runs they have added somewhere around 8kwatw to my untuned motor with the potential for a lot more. Car is running rich with this setup.

- Innovative 60A mounts

Review: Replaced my torn OEM ones, much more direct control of the car with no laginess in braking and acceleration/clutch work. Dont even notice the Vibration anymore but there was an increase in cabin noise from the engine.

- AST 5100 Monotube Dampers

Review: Ill let you know when i finally get my new rear dampers fml

- Exedy HD clutch, Wavetrac LSD, JDM flywheel

Review: HD clutch is a little firmer then stock with a bit more aggressiveness in bite, JDM flywheel makes revv matching lots of fun and the car feels more rev happy with it considering its about 2kg lighter then the standard one. Wavetrac LSD is the best thing i have spent money on so far, exponentially more grip in cornering, i know know what carrying some exit speed feels like :). Operation is completely silent and OEM maintenance.

- Enkei RPF1 with Dunlop Direzza Z1 star specs

Review: light, cheap great looking wheels, tyres are also leagues above Re001, they are getting quite worn though after about 8 months so the wear isnt the best, its hard to go back to harder tyres after becoming used to the performance. Wet grip is the best in a tyre i have seen and they have a great stiff sidewall for predictable turn in.

- Hardrace RCA, PCI offset bearings, Buddyclub camber rear arms

Review: PCI has the only real affect to the feel of the car, the front is a hell of a lot stiffer and holds its alignment much better during hard cornering. More harshness from bumps is felt t hough as there is no longer any compliance in the LCA assembly.

Mods yet to arrive:
- SWIFT springs
- Sparco fixed back seat W low rails

Cost: >$12k not including labour :(

Favourite mod: LSD, don't leave home without it :p

Ive paid for them, the short hub is here but the quick release is still on its way from the states. Should be here in the next few days though, ill post some pics when theyre on the car. The quality looks good, I just figured you pay twice as much for an equivalent Works Bell part, and i hardly ever track my car so couldnt justify the price. Wish i hadve gone the Gruppe M back when i was looking at intakes :(

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Nuci

Ive paid for them, the short hub is here but the quick release is still on its way from the states. Should be here in the next few days though, ill post some pics when theyre on the car. The quality looks good, I just figured you pay twice as much for an equivalent Works Bell part, and i hardly ever track my car so couldnt justify the price. Wish i hadve gone the Gruppe M back when i was looking at intakes :(

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thats true i have wanted to get the NRG kit for a while but more important expenditures always take precedence. Considering you have the Mugen intake 145kwatw is fantastic power, who did your tune? Also you should come to the CITR Annual photoshoot this weekend :)

Had the tune done at Hipower Racing up here in Brisbane. Where abouts is the CITR photoshoot? Sydney im guessing... :( damn

Only mods I've felt that have been well worth the money are:
- Stiffer engine mounts
- Lightweight flywheel
- K-pro + Tune
- Front and rear sway bars

I've found that everything else doesn't really work to it's full potential unless you've got the above mentioned mods.

Once I've got the mods that are sitting in my cupboard/shed fitted... I'll update again.

Just a word out for you guys. How much did you end up paying for KPro-installed + tuned + reprogramming? Or did you have your ECU chipped?

My mods:
- Mugen Sports Suspension
- JDM Flywheel
- FN2R Clutch

Clutch is softer than DC5 but grabs very strong. JDM Flywheel is a dream to drive with. Very free revving. Mugen Sports is nice and firm on the street. Feels like Koni/Eibach combo on my mates CL9.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by munkaii

Just a word out for you guys. How much did you end up paying for KPro-installed + tuned + reprogramming? Or did you have your ECU chipped?

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Just depends if you buy new or 2nd hand and what mods you have done to the car.

You can get a 2nd hand K-pro for around $1200, for a full tune (Intake, headers, exhaust) you are looking at around $800... again this depends on the tuner.

But at a guess, the cheapest you could get away with for a tuned K-Pro is around $2k.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Nuci

Had the tune done at Hipower Racing up here in Brisbane. Where abouts is the CITR photoshoot? Sydney im guessing... :( damn

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yeh its in Sydney, didnt know you were in Brisbane :( I will have to organise a meetup when i visit 45SET to do our reverse facelift swap :p

lol i prefer the facelift dc5. but yeah meetup sounds good :) annual ozhonda meet is coming up soon, first time ill have taken the car out for a cruise.

As for the Kpro yeah you can buy one for 1200-1400, but however you buy it id recommend that you have it installed in a different ecu other than your own. That way if you ever sell the car you can ell the kpro ecu seperately as they are highly sought after. That way you can just whack your old one back in.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by stevanbonic

yeh its in sydney, didnt know you were in brisbane :( i will have to organise a meetup when i visit 45set to do our reverse facelift swap :p

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fark yeahhhh!!!

How did u pay for the Mugen Sports suspension? and where

Cheers

Quote:

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Originally Posted by munkaii

Just a word out for you guys. How much did you end up paying for KPro-installed + tuned + reprogramming? Or did you have your ECU chipped?

My mods:
- Mugen Sports Suspension
- JDM Flywheel
- FN2R Clutch

Clutch is softer than DC5 but grabs very strong. JDM Flywheel is a dream to drive with. Very free revving. Mugen Sports is nice and firm on the street. Feels like Koni/Eibach combo on my mates CL9.

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Came with the car. It is quite expensive though @ almost $2000 from JDMYard. If you're after a budget coilover, maybe BC racing as they may have something soft enought.

2002 DC5R
Previous Owner
Lowered springs
Some real ugly 18" rims

Personally
-Hasport Billet Engine Mountsl
Definatly remove axle tramp and created a much meaner rumble at idel, vibration increased alot
-Toda Lightweight Flywheel
Seems to rev easier and smoother
-Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket
-AirBox Mod
EP3r Rims running PIRELLI P7 215/45/17 atm
smoother ride that the 18"s Pirellies are new but they are making more noise and not as good in the wet as my old adrenalin R001's will be buying them again next time.

by all means review some parts
but jesus don't go around listing all your mods.
it's not a competiton of whos got the biggest
u are just making it easier for the thieves to decide which cars to steal n strip
and it doesnt take a rocket scientist to get an address from an ip...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by l__i__l

by all means review some parts
but jesus don't go around listing all your mods.
it's not a competiton of whos got the biggest
u are just making it easier for the thieves to decide which cars to steal n strip
and it doesnt take a rocket scientist to get an address from an ip...

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was thinking this thread got a little sidetracked haha, im updating my post now. In all seriousness though everyone here pretty much has a build thread so your comment is a bit redundant, do you suggest we shut down every car forum to stop this risk?

Should also add that ive got a viper alarm system and a chair next to my car which i sit on while holding a cricket bat, some low **** wants to try steal my car they can be my guest. God what has the world come to.

^hehe very good!! I has a very large German Shepherd which sits on a chair in front of my car holding a cricket bat....... :p Now its a competition to see who has the most secure DC5 in Aus rofl....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by stevanbonic

was thinking this thread got a little sidetracked haha, im updating my post now. In all seriousness though everyone here pretty much has a build thread so your comment is a bit redundant, do you suggest we shut down every car forum to stop this risk?

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The thing is y make it easier for them. U dont even need to sign in to see this thread
thieves can just come to this thread choose which parts they want then off they go to get them
Its also a bonus the costs are listed so they know which cars will get them the most money
But hey its only when ur shit gets stolen thats when u learn.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Nuci

Should also add that ive got a viper alarm system and a chair next to my car which i sit on while holding a cricket bat, some low **** wants to try steal my car they can be my guest. God what has the world come to.

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lol viper alarms r useless, coloured wiring with 1 point immobolization ROTFL!
u need a shotgun not a cricket bat

So what is carsales then? A thieves dream? Im not going to sit here quivering thinking oh no if i have a car thieves will just steal it. I have an alarm, the car is securely garaged, I have insurance, plus I know exactly where my car is at all times, and i always park in in a safe place. Not much more I can do. But man i would hate to be the guy who tried to steal my car.

hey i have a dc5 type r 2002 model with aem cold air intake and looking to put in toda headers. i just need to kno if its any good to get those headers with custom 2.5 inch exhuast and cat with hks silent hi power muffler. also looking to get kpro done. Or is it better to get a branded exhaust system. everyone is telling me different things.

Tell you what, I hear this question asked every week. The reason why you're hearing so many different answers is because half of the people on here think that they're experts just because they've bought an exhaust before. What you need to do is speak to someone directly who specialises in your model of car. They are going to give you the best advice. Call/email Adrian from toda, ask him. He will give you the best advice. Not trying to be an ass, but you have to ask yourself how credible the advice is that you receive on forums. I know there are a few gurus on here, but there are plenty of people with no idea as well. Just bear that in mind.

Imo the top three
Mods to get for a dc5 are billet mounts/esmm inserts, suspension - shocks/springs or a full coilover replacement, and an intake.

Mounts - for strength and durability. Dc5 mounts are weak like me
Suspension. Kills two birds with one stone. Lower is always better for looks and increases handling also
Intake. K series engines , you cant hear vtec crossover, an intake will solve that!

Need to beware of maxxing out tie-rod ends though. DC5 when lowered makes suspension geometry bad when you go down too low.

What do people think about front and rear swaybar upgrades for DC5?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by r3ckless

Imo the top three
Mods to get for a dc5 are billet mounts/esmm inserts, suspension - shocks/springs or a full coilover replacement, and an intake.

Mounts - for strength and durability. Dc5 mounts are weak like me
Suspension. Kills two birds with one stone. Lower is always better for looks and increases handling also
Intake. K series engines , you cant hear vtec crossover, an intake will solve that!

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I runa an EP3R front sway bar anda Whiteline 24mm rear sway bar. The rear sway bar definiately makes a differnce. Witha FF car, you want a thicker sway bar for the rear, so there are alot of mixed opinions when people talk about running no front sway bar, or even have an upgraded front sway bar.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by r3ckless

I runa an EP3R front sway bar anda Whiteline 24mm rear sway bar. The rear sway bar definiately makes a differnce. Witha FF car, you want a thicker sway bar for the rear, so there are alot of mixed opinions when people talk about running no front sway bar, or even have an upgraded front sway bar.

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I hane only an upgraded front sway (rear is still stock) its a 24mm whiteline. I must say from my experience its well worth the money. just by changing the front it makes it very difficult to under-steer your car. even in the wet the front wants to grip. I havent tried a rear sway so i cant comment on the effects of that paired with it. But i will say the front is definatly worth the money for the increase in corner handling. :)

I have an ep3 front sway to clear my header, but i do have a 24mm whiteline sokid sway bar. That helps me turn in better. I was thinking of running a whiteline front seay, but it would reduce the effect of my rear seay bar. Ten again my mate ran both frint n rear akthough he was on lowered springs.