What mods to start with, CL9

Hey guys, first post :), i hope its in the right section.

I got a 04 manual euro 5 months back. The previous owner added a few mods:

Suspension lowered (dont know with what springs)
Cusco Strut bars (front and rear)
17' rims
I think the Japanese version body kit (as different from aussie version)
Changed the gear knob.

Now im just considering (as wont be able to do anything financially for couple months) to mod it a bit more for performance.

What i have been reading, best to start with a cold air intake. Any thoughts on that, or any other mods?

I would for sure consider DIY, as im pretty handy in opening stuff if i have a tutorial or some guidance (have worked a bit on a corolla and honda city in the past).

Just looking for your thoughts at this stage, cheers :)

intake / headers /exhaust

A bigger rear sway bar is, without doubt, the best modification you can do to the Euro. Improves the whole driving experience of the car immensely.

If you want power; then start with your header and cat, then intake, then catback exhaust. If you want more power after that then you can swap to a larger throttle body and port-match the stock manifold to it. (If you're interested in any of the power mods, shoot me a PM)

Depends on how much you got to spend and if you're after more power, performance or looks.

Since power and experience have been covered, looks wise you can think of new wheels and lowering the suspension with some coil overs, grill , body kit, etc..

Thanks for the replies guys. Sorry, not too sure with some terms, so will take me more research to know what the parts are as im new to this game.

Rear sway bar, how can i identify myself what i have already installed? cause according to the dealer i got it off, he said it was a strut, but who believes what they say.

edit: maybe i could take a photo and show

edit again: well i looked at some pics online, and well i believe i actually have a rear sway bar already, as its located on the bottom of the suspension. Have a front strut bar too. I really have less body roll on fast cornering.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by djpro1

looks wise you can think of new wheels and lowering the suspension with some coil overs, grill , body kit, etc..

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Im pretty happy with the overall look, dont want something too flashy. The suspension is already lowered, but i dont know what springs are used. Already has a body kit. Happy with the 17 rims.

Headers,intake,cat.Please post pics.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tony1234

Headers,intake,cat.Please post pics.

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i will take some pics over the weekend and upload. ta

Japanese version bodykit eh? interesting.. as most others have said, go for a cold air intake (CAI) or rear sway bar first! :D

To start with:
For more power - headers + high flow cat
For better handling - rear sway bar

rsb + dump it + +40 18x8" rims

Quote:

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Originally Posted by roony

Thanks for the replies guys. Sorry, not too sure with some terms, so will take me more research to know what the parts are as im new to this game.

Rear sway bar, how can i identify myself what i have already installed? cause according to the dealer i got it off, he said it was a strut, but who believes what they say.

edit again: well i looked at some pics online, and well i believe i actually have a rear sway bar already, as its located on the bottom of the suspension. Have a front strut bar too. I really have less body roll on fast cornering.

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Yeah, the car comes stock with both front and rear anti-swaybars. But by changing to a bigger, thicker rear one the car is much better to drive. The stock rear I measured to be just shy of 13mm - while the generic aftermarket thickness is 18mm, or you can run an even thicker one (like I am) @ 22mm.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by integral90

Yeah, the car comes stock with both front and rear anti-swaybars. But by changing to a bigger, thicker rear one the car is much better to drive. The stock rear I measured to be just shy of 13mm - while the generic aftermarket thickness is 18mm, or you can run an even thicker one (like I am) @ 22mm.

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Can you recommend any good brands ?

Or doesn't really matter ...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by elitee

Can you recommend any good brands ?

Or doesn't really matter ...

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Mine's a Comptech (now known as CT-Engineering or something) and is the only 22mm RSB I know of. There's also Whiteline and Neuspeed. I'd check Heel'n'Toe to see what brands they list

Quote:

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Originally Posted by integral90

Mine's a Comptech (now known as CT-Engineering or something) and is the only 22mm RSB I know of. There's also Whiteline and Neuspeed. I'd check Heel'n'Toe to see what brands they list

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Yeah i was looking at the comptech one on heal n toe, Will properly purchase it !

Quote:

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Originally Posted by integral90

Yeah, the car comes stock with both front and rear anti-swaybars. But by changing to a bigger, thicker rear one the car is much better to drive. The stock rear I measured to be just shy of 13mm - while the generic aftermarket thickness is 18mm, or you can run an even thicker one (like I am) @ 22mm.

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22mm sounds good, but have you had any issues with ripping your end links or anything else out?

Whiteline is good for a RSB (rear sway bar). bang for your buck.
If you want JDM, try and source SWIFT RSB. Rarer, and $$$$ but its a solid sway bar, compared to whiteline which I think is hollow? Cant remember...Comptech (CT engineering or whatever theyre called now) made some good RSB's too...dunno if they still sell them?

Im assuming that you have a CUSCO FRONT strut bar and CUSCO LOWER ARM bar? Euros dont have REAR STRUT Bars.

Adding an intake will give you a growl every time you rev it at WOT (wide open throttle).....it will definately sound nice, but in terms of performance, prob next to none if you dont have complimenting mods, such as a 4-2-1 header, high flow cat and a catback exhaust........but even THEN, performance wont be that great.

fact to the matter is, to get power from the NA block costs a lot of $$$$ if you're doing normal NA mods to it. the gains wont be as much compared to the amount of money you'll be spending.

In my opinion, if you're happy with the looks of the car (exterior, i.e bodykit) and the stance (how it sits currently with the springs), then just get a rear sway bar first. Get the suspension right first before you look at power. You'll get more bang for your buck tryin to get the cars handling right than trying to extract power from the K24 engine.

See if you can try and find out what springs you have and if theyre currently on stock shock absorbers. Because if you just upgrade the springs and leave the shocks as OEM, the stock shocks wear out quicker. Thats why when people upgrade their suspension, they either go for a good spring/shock combo like for e.g koni adjustable shocks + eibach lowering springs. Or if they can afford coilovers, they go with something like TEINS.

But before ANY of this, work out your budget and how much you have to play with. That way, you have a better idea as to what mods are feasible and which mods arent.

And remember, modding is about doing things right the first time around. Thats what I believe anyway. So if you're on a budget, work out what that budget is and work out what mods you want on the car. If the mod you want is expensive, look for another good quality alternative but dont skimp on the quality of the mod. For e.g, if you want, say, a fujitsubo catback exhaust, then save up for it and get it once, rather than buying a cheap alternative and buying the real thing later. u waste more money that way.

my 2c

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SL8512

Whiteline is good for a RSB (rear sway bar). bang for your buck.
If you want JDM, try and source SWIFT RSB. Rarer, and $$$$ but its a solid sway bar, compared to whiteline which I think is hollow? Cant remember...Comptech (CT engineering or whatever theyre called now) made some good RSB's too...dunno if they still sell them?

Im assuming that you have a CUSCO FRONT strut bar and CUSCO LOWER ARM bar? Euros dont have REAR STRUT Bars.

Adding an intake will give you a growl every time you rev it at WOT (wide open throttle).....it will definately sound nice, but in terms of performance, prob next to none if you dont have complimenting mods, such as a 4-2-1 header, high flow cat and a catback exhaust........but even THEN, performance wont be that great.

fact to the matter is, to get power from the NA block costs a lot of $$$$ if you're doing normal NA mods to it. the gains wont be as much compared to the amount of money you'll be spending.

In my opinion, if you're happy with the looks of the car (exterior, i.e bodykit) and the stance (how it sits currently with the springs), then just get a rear sway bar first. Get the suspension right first before you look at power. You'll get more bang for your buck tryin to get the cars handling right than trying to extract power from the K24 engine.

See if you can try and find out what springs you have and if theyre currently on stock shock absorbers. Because if you just upgrade the springs and leave the shocks as OEM, the stock shocks wear out quicker. Thats why when people upgrade their suspension, they either go for a good spring/shock combo like for e.g koni adjustable shocks + eibach lowering springs. Or if they can afford coilovers, they go with something like TEINS.

But before ANY of this, work out your budget and how much you have to play with. That way, you have a better idea as to what mods are feasible and which mods arent.

And remember, modding is about doing things right the first time around. Thats what I believe anyway. So if you're on a budget, work out what that budget is and work out what mods you want on the car. If the mod you want is expensive, look for another good quality alternative but dont skimp on the quality of the mod. For e.g, if you want, say, a fujitsubo catback exhaust, then save up for it and get it once, rather than buying a cheap alternative and buying the real thing later. u waste more money that way.

my 2c

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strongly agree, sounds like you hv got a bit of handling mod, one of the best mod to start will prob b a mp3/bluethooth headunit