Advice on buying an EK GLi

I've been shopping around for an EK GLi recently, and would like some advice on buying.

What are some things with this model that I should look out for?

What is the average price for one? (Should I spend over 6000?)

Is it more important to get a late year (99', 200+k) or low km (150k, but 97)?

Also, I'm torn between the EK VTi (coupe) and the EK GLi at the moment. For the same price, which one should I go for, and why?

My preference is the GLi purely because it's a hatchback, but if there are way more pro's with the VTi... then yeah.

Any advice is appreciated, thanks.

get a coupe like me if u want more practicality.... more room, and isnt as common as the hatch back... its also US built car, not JDM built car :D

The one coupe I saw (VTi) has been sold unfortunately...

Look for a VTi Coupe (1996-98). They have all options (- sunroof) and a perkier engine (93kw vs. GLi 88 kw).

The Coupes also keep their value better.

Also, they have body-coloured bumpers, which other '96-98 Civics didn't have. It gives the car a more modern look.

With the Civic coupes look out for slow power windows, squeeky clutch, worn rear trailing arm bushes as well as other things to look out for on any used car.

You can source one for $6K. I sold mine with 183,000km on the clock last year in Aug. It went for $6.5K within a week of advertising.

I'd prefer VTi because of the VTi features over the GLi and because it's 1.6 instead of 1.5. Low KMs is always something I look for but ultimately doesn't mean anything.

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Originally Posted by dougie_504

I'd prefer VTi because of the VTi features over the GLi and because it's 1.6 instead of 1.5. Low KMs is always something I look for but ultimately doesn't mean anything.

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Actually Dougie, all EKs are 1.6L.

Unlike the EG, which came in a variety of engine sizes.

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Originally Posted by Mikecivic78

Actually Dougie, all EKs are 1.6L.

Unlike the EG, which came in a variety of engine sizes.

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For real? The EK GLI is 1.6?

Learn something everyday...

only down fall with civic coupe (EJ8), and biggest id say as well, the rear drum set up... big let down by honda.... but other wise,coupe has airbags for both, and abs an all, good features for first timer.

i can't seem to find a good priced coupe at the moment.

I've found a few ek gli's (hatches) for 5000 to 5500... what do you mean by the bumpers though? I've noticed they all have the same body colour bumper.

side mouldings around the bumper =) u have the option of getting bumpers from pre-existing honda civics that have no mouldings to be put on

LOL make sure its a gli, disc brakes power windows, colour coded mirrors

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Originally Posted by na-118

LOL make sure its a gli, disc brakes power windows, colour coded mirrors

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The only thing mentioned there which I don't know how to check, are disc brakes.

How do I make sure it has disc brakes?

Also, I've found 3 at the moment.

Please tell me which one you'd pick.

1) 1997 GLI, green, 150000 km, w/ roof racks. $5500

2) 1999 GLI, black, 200000km, $5000.

3) 1998, GLI, black, 214000km, $4700.

Thanks.

check the rears if it looks like the front or not

jus check the rear brakes, if they look the same as the fronts, its Disc brakes, if its a grey/black round thing, its drums
Dont always go by Kms, its the overall condition you should be looking out for, low kms maybe a bonus, but it could be in a crap state

Ask the seller for "1) 1997 GLI, green, 150000 km, w/ roof racks. $5500" if he would reduce the price if he sold them without the racks

If not probably go for the "2) 1999 GLI, black, 200000km, $5000". The others are right, it really all depends on the paint, bodywork and engine condition though.

Don't be scared to give the seller a much lower offer (maybe $1000 less than the asking price, as long as you can back it up)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by japa_VTEC

Ask the seller for "1) 1997 GLI, green, 150000 km, w/ roof racks. $5500" if he would reduce the price if he sold them without the racks

If not probably go for the "2) 1999 GLI, black, 200000km, $5000". The others are right, it really all depends on the paint, bodywork and engine condition though.

Don't be scared to give the seller a much lower offer (maybe $1000 less than the asking price, as long as you can back it up)

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Don't go for number 3? I thought that one would be good due to low price, but slightly higher km...

The roof racks are a bit of a put-off for me, as they're not removable (even if they are, they'd leave pad marks on top).

Number 2) is enticing purely because of the year, but I haven't seen any pictures yet.

Thanks for the advice on the disc brakes though, will definitely check that out.

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Originally Posted by Doriya

The only thing mentioned there which I don't know how to check, are disc brakes.

How do I make sure it has disc brakes?

Also, I've found 3 at the moment.

Please tell me which one you'd pick.

1) 1997 GLI, green, 150000 km, w/ roof racks. $5500

2) 1999 GLI, black, 200000km, $5000.

3) 1998, GLI, black, 214000km, $4700.

Thanks.

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Not sure if you're in Sydney but there was a good Civic for sale in Friday's Daily Telegraph - was a white one for around $7k with what I think was less than 100,000 on the clock - it would have got snapped up pretty quick tho for that price. Option 1 sounds best to me without seeing any pics.

FYI to your question below

Disk brakes:

http://a.imageshack.us/img688/3185/b1c2b0200.jpg
By civica at 2010-08-01

Drum brakes:

http://a.imageshack.us/img838/5593/brake27.gif
By civica at 2010-08-01

Quote:

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Originally Posted by japa_VTEC

Ask the seller for "1) 1997 GLI, green, 150000 km, w/ roof racks. $5500" if he would reduce the price if he sold them without the racks

If not probably go for the "2) 1999 GLI, black, 200000km, $5000". The others are right, it really all depends on the paint, bodywork and engine condition though.

Don't be scared to give the seller a much lower offer (maybe $1000 less than the asking price, as long as you can back it up)

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What should the price be for an EK GLI these days?

Are you saying it should be around $4000? Or is that just your bargaining advice?

If $5000/5500 (not willing to budge), is that still a decent price?

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Originally Posted by Doriya

What should the price be for an EK GLI these days?

Are you saying it should be around $4000? Or is that just your bargaining advice?

If $5000/5500 (not willing to budge), is that still a decent price?

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Like has been said depends on engine, bodywork, how the car has been looked after (you can tell if it's had any love or not), has it been garaged, extras (tint, alarm, wheels - if it has mags get them to put stock rims back on to further get price down) - and find out if the car due for a major service because if it is you have good grounds for a price drop, check out rego expiry as well.

BUT most importantly do a REVS check to see if any money owing or stolen (happened to a friend of mine)...

http://www.revs.nsw.gov.au/

Good Luck

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Originally Posted by Alvis

Like has been said depends on engine, bodywork, how the car has been looked after (you can tell if it's had any love or not), has it been garaged, extras (tint, alarm, wheels - if it has mags get them to put stock rims back on to further get price down) - and find out if the car due for a major service because if it is you have good grounds for a price drop, check out rego expiry as well.

BUT most importantly do a REVS check to see if any money owing or stolen (happened to a friend of mine)...

http://www.revs.nsw.gov.au/

Good Luck

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Just went to go inspect one.

Here is what I found. 1997, dark green hatchback, manual GLI.

Here are the rest of my findings:
1) Front bumper has cracked paint here and there, owner said it was due to small bumps (people with tow bars reversing into car, etc. looks to be only cosmetic damage)
2) passenger side of front bumper is hanging SLIGHTLY (seems to be a bit loose).
3) roof racks on top aren't removable (if removed, will still have the pads on there)
4) long key scratch on passenger side door (25cm)
5) slight bump on rear of roof (on the spoiler ish thing), due to bicycle being mounted there in the past. (width of a bicycle wheel)
6) muffler looks very "stock". Not sure how it should look, but should a GLI have a chrome muffler tip? or just a normal pipe?
7) accelerator was unresponsive for the first 0.5~1cm. Not sure if this is common with all civics, as I haven't driven one before, but i found the tacho didn't move until I pressed it a bit more than 1 cm down.
8) front number plate is bent (see point 1)).
9) interior is very clean, looks well maintained.
10) gear's shift well, car seems responsive and quiet.
11) very slight rattle when i broke or went over a bump (not sure what caused it), but it was very minor.
12) 153000km approx.
13) service records, serviced by honda.

Based on the above report, what should I do? He wanted 5500, I said 5000? and he said ok. I'll be taking it to the local mechanic to get checked out (which will cost $99).

Should I get it checked out? Should I offer a lower price first?

Please advise on this car.

Will be looking at my second one on Saturday, and possibly make a decision after that.

Thanks.

bumping this because it's on the 2nd page now.

Wanted your thoughts on this car.

1998, EK, GLI.
214xxxkm

The owner said it "had" a broken pulley or something, which caused the timing belt to break. He has since repaired this.

Is this a major worry when purchasing a car?

If so, what should I look out for when inspecting to ensure there are no issues. (Noise, engine oil colour, specific sounds?)

Thanks.

yes its a major thing, lol, if the timing belt broke, while the engine was running, its a disastrous thing, whole engine would need rebuild, ask the seller for more info about the timing belt snapping.... id be very cautious about that, ask as much q's as u can

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Doriya

Wanted your thoughts on this car.

1998, EK, GLI.
214xxxkm

The owner said it "had" a broken pulley or something, which caused the timing belt to break. He has since repaired this.

Is this a major worry when purchasing a car?

If so, what should I look out for when inspecting to ensure there are no issues. (Noise, engine oil colour, specific sounds?)

Thanks.

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Sounds dodgy mate. :\ Obviously it wasn't very well mainatined if the timing belt snapped.

Keep looking, and aim for a car with <170,000km with service history.

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Originally Posted by Mikecivic78

Actually Dougie, all EKs are 1.6L.

Unlike the EG, which came in a variety of engine sizes.

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EK9 Type R. Not a 1.6L.
You can get EK's in 1.3 (UKDM EK2 with D13B) and 1.5 (JDM ferio ViRS) as well.

anyway OT,
These GLi's you keep looking at have such high km's surely thers lower ones around, mines only got 137

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Originally Posted by Raztaz

EK9 Type R. Not a 1.6L.
You can get EK's in 1.3 (UKDM EK2 with D13B) and 1.5 (JDM ferio ViRS) as well.

anyway OT,
These GLi's you keep looking at have such high km's surely thers lower ones around, mines only got 137

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Yeah... but I can't find any with lower km's. Especially for my price range...

The one with low km's I found was a bit battered here and there...

Personally I'd get an EG VTi rather than an EK GLi - I like the look more, better features, good engine etc.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dougie_504

Personally I'd get an EG VTi rather than an EK GLi - I like the look more, better features, good engine etc.

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Can't seem to find one though...

Can you give me advice on what to look out for when checking the civic which has had a busted timing belt?

He says he has the mechanic report/receipt/invoice, so what should be on there to make sure the car is ok?

Head reco. Mostly what happens is the valves get smacked to feck and the head is pretty much rooted.

Personally I'd just stay away. If the timing belt snapped there's a fair chance the car wasn't well maintained.


I'm not the best re: timing belts though

i got my 1999 cxi for 6.5k, had 100,000km and service history, it was advertised for 8k. Engine was going hard and no leaks around and the paint work was all pristine except for a few light scratches that i easily polished out. Interior was all good no scratches except where the seat belt thing is on the sides, had some scrapes but nothing major. Didn't wanna go for the gli cause i hear people having trouble with window motors and crap, figured manual windows would be less hassle maintaining. The car as owned by a lady, probably why the engine was in good nick and roared once you pushed it past 3k rpms. I saw a dodgy civic before i put a deposit on my car, my bro noticed it was recently resprayed and was crashed on the side, owner said only front was hit, engine didnt even roar, was so ****ed. Lucky someone put a deposit on it same day phew :D might have gotten a piece of shit dead civic LOL. But ye just look at the paintwork for swirls, quick paint jobs tend to leave the flow of scratch marks from damage and looks glossy but dull at the same time. Check engine doesn't sound screwed like a weezy sound. Also if your looking at a manual, and the owner comes with you for a test drive, ask if u can floor first gear a few times to test if clutch is in good order and isnt slipping. Will cost u 300-500 to replace depending on brand/quality if its on its way out. First gear top speed is 52km so you wont break any speed laws xD. Rev-limiter is at 7200 rpms and red line begins at 6800 rpms. Good luck mate.

lol, well good luck in tryna convince the owner to let you "floor it"....be sensible, the window problem is found in all Ek, and with regards to rev limiter, geez its not like the streets are the track again, be sensible, theres a good reason as to the short gear ratio...

True but at least try get 5k rpms or so b4 shifting to 2nd xD.

If you're serious about buying a car you have the right to floor it and redline it IMO. You need to know that the power is there when you need it and that the engine is healthy.

yes, but if u were the seller, would u let some random redline your car? dont think so... if u wanted to see the health of the motor, theres alternatives, comp test,leak test....

Same thing. If you're selling the car then I think you should be prepared to let people test it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Raztaz

EK9 Type R. Not a 1.6L.
You can get EK's in 1.3 (UKDM EK2 with D13B) and 1.5 (JDM ferio ViRS) as well.

anyway OT,
These GLi's you keep looking at have such high km's surely thers lower ones around, mines only got 137

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I was talking about Aussie Eks, not imports. And EK9 is 1.6.

But if ur test driving a car, you should have the right to wind it out at least once IMO. How else can u test the limits of the car? You can easily do it on a highway on ramp without going over the speed limit.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mugen_ctr

lol, well good luck in tryna convince the owner to let you "floor it"....be sensible, the window problem is found in all Ek, and with regards to rev limiter, geez its not like the streets are the track again, be sensible, theres a good reason as to the short gear ratio...

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what's up with the window problems in the EKs? Never heard anything on this - I'm assuming electric obviously... me and my Dad have a 96 and a 98 EK and never any problems...???

and yes agree, IMO you should be able to 'wring it out' with owner's permission at least once - maybe not redline, but a decent whack in the arse for sure

You can do alternative tests but its not gonna decide whether its the right car for you. Initially i thought the d16y4 was slow with 120hp brand new. Didn't realise 120hp was alot, my mums hyundai auto getz has 90ish or 100 out of factory and its not that quick. But that 20hp difference is alot. It had enough power for me, was gonna buy a supra or a 300zx with almost double the power. Couldn't beleive the d16y4 had enough to get me to buy it. You gotta get behind the wheel and test it, no point buying a car thats not right for you.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Alvis

what's up with the window problems in the EKs? Never heard anything on this - I'm assuming electric obviously... me and my Dad have a 96 and a 98 EK and never any problems...???

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Was something to do with the motor, cant really remember it all. Did my research somewhere in feb when looking for civics and other cars =/

i agree that u should be able to test the limits, but at the end of the day, no one seller would ever let you, unless u put done a substantial deposit on the car itself...

Civics are no were as good as 300zx or supra non-turbo (exception of Type-r), sure there two different cars and mayb more wank factor if u get either sports car, but it seem u made the right decision man, lol, either go get a turbo supra/300zx or go home, non-turbos arnt worth the money imho

Window problems were more to do with the motor and railing system, poor design, supposedly honda fixed the problem, but buying the new designed window motors cost an arm and leg from honda em selfs
Me personally, iev had the window fall off the rail once before, took awhile to figure where it went wrong, but was a simple fix, jus realigned it back.

Oh right, I'd never heard of that - but if it happens at least I know why lol :)

And I wouldn't buy a 300ZX IMO they are absolute pain in the back side to work on - ask any mechanic. And they'll charge you an arm and a leg as well. Better of with a Supra which modded properly I think still look like a hot car despite their age. Finding one that hasn't been abused... a totally different story.

300zx turbo, yes, pain in the arse to work on, lol... theres no engine space, once u blow the turbo, its all engine out job, so dont even think about boosting them with stock turbos, but they are torquey motors...non-turbos are fine for what they are, a clean one is hard to come by, but easy to maintain like every other car

Supra on the other hand, toughest motor to ever come out, with toughest gearbox, win win situation.... sure parts are expensive, but the amount of power u can make b4 anything breaks is astonishing! 350kw an stock bottom end :D
Non-turbo supras iev encountered are pretty dam good, engine is very solid, and gear box, love interior, but to heavy for what it is, again same thing as 300zx, hard to find a clean one, and one without re-winded odometer since there all jdm grey imports

Mate fked his supra up LOL, he high pressured hose cleaned his engine bay and i guess forgot to examine where the wires were before hosing off the dust LOL. Missfires n shit now LMAO. I checked where my civics main wires and places to avoid when hosing haha.

IMO just don't high-pressure your bay. I'm afraid of stuffing shit up. If you care about it then get up close and personal with a rag and some product...

I just hosed my ek1, the wires are mainly at back left corner and just behind the engine and then look down below. Plus the distributor is covered. I reckon just examining your engine bay before hosing is pretty safe. I wouldn't start the car till the water is dry and cars been sitting there for a few hours with hood open in case droplets touch the wiring etc.

I've been continually looking around, and people want ridiculous prices for their ek's.

I'm quite keen on the 99' ek's, as they look alot better.

The ones i've been looking at have scratch marks here and there, and don't seem too well maintained.

I can't seem to find one for a reasonable price though. I'm not fussed about performance, I'm happy with it however it comes.

I basically want a 98 or 99 EK, GLI, hatchback, with < 200000km, for 5.5k or less...

Is that obtainable?

You be hard press to find a 2000 model for that price, there usual price is just around 6-7k cause of there age, id say settle for the 96-98 model, theres no real difference, besides the face lift

How scratched.... if there deep it might need respray, my ek came wit a few light scratches at the front bar from rocks etc, i polished them out in like 2mins? Basically you pay for what you get. If u pay 5k for something valued at 6-7k, your probably gonna run into problems. Unless owner really needs money quick aka to pay loans or something. When i searched for eks, i found em from 4k-8k, all with different kms, rims, kits etc. Kms don't mean much if the car was used on the highway, the car would be in better nick then a car used for suburban travel. In saying so finding a civic for 5.5k is obtainable but dont expect the condition of the car to be good. If you want a nice civic save about 6-6.5. I bargained down an 8k civic to 6.5. Just say you gotta pay rego, insurance, the cars close to 100,000 bla bla kms, will need timing belt change and make up bs like transmission etc LOL... The people who u talk to dont even know much. Then they say something like we looking for 7k, give em your number, wait 2hrs and they call you back accepting your offer.

general census of civic owners are old to middle age people, who just use these as there daily commute, so like Ek1 says, play it cool, an bargain it down, doubtful most civic owners would know the difference between Vti-r and Vti models, if u know ur stuff, u should be able to work things out to make it cheaper for u :D

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Originally Posted by mugen_ctr

general census of civic owners are old to middle age people, who just use these as there daily commute, so like Ek1 says, play it cool, an bargain it down, doubtful most civic owners would know the difference between Vti-r and Vti models, if u know ur stuff, u should be able to work things out to make it cheaper for u :D

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I got mine of some late 20 and possibly early 30 couple. They were very nice about all of it, even showed me all the interior features and buttons and what did what. Liked that about them, actually took the time to show me what everything does. Not in that persisting buy my car way, more so the laid back genuine style.

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Originally Posted by EK1 Civic

How scratched.... if there deep it might need respray, my ek came wit a few light scratches at the front bar from rocks etc, i polished them out in like 2mins? Basically you pay for what you get. If u pay 5k for something valued at 6-7k, your probably gonna run into problems. Unless owner really needs money quick aka to pay loans or something. When i searched for eks, i found em from 4k-8k, all with different kms, rims, kits etc. Kms don't mean much if the car was used on the highway, the car would be in better nick then a car used for suburban travel. In saying so finding a civic for 5.5k is obtainable but dont expect the condition of the car to be good. If you want a nice civic save about 6-6.5. I bargained down an 8k civic to 6.5. Just say you gotta pay rego, insurance, the cars close to 100,000 bla bla kms, will need timing belt change and make up bs like transmission etc LOL... The people who u talk to dont even know much. Then they say something like we looking for 7k, give em your number, wait 2hrs and they call you back accepting your offer.

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Thanks for the input... looks like I was expecting too much for the 5.5k pricetag.

I did manage to haggle one dealer car (1999, 160000km), down from 8k to 6.5k...

However, that's still out of my budget :(.

There was a good one in vic for 6.2k or 5.5k had 90,000km and rims. 2000 model cant remember if gli or cxi but it had no kit. It was one of them two prices, was looking for civics for a mate. I didn't like the rims though =/

*EDIT* pretty sure it was 5.5k though