..........
Printable View
..........
great DIY
just wondering about the cutting part. Are you just using a standard applicator pad? back and forth motion?
I personally used a woolf buffing pad with a orbital buffer, but to save costs, you can do this by hand with as you said, a standard applicator pad.
It would be best to do it in circular motions to get more area.
great write up mate, just wondering where did u get those sandpapers? bunnings doesn't seem to stock those grits you mentioned
you can get all those products from supercheap
I got them from VG Auto Paints.
Google it! (In Sydney)
I suggest getting all of it from VG Auto Paints (if you are close to it ofcourse) as they focus on paints.
nice write up, will definitely give it a go when i get my rideeeeeeee!!
Here is a front lip I did for a member on JDMST aswell:
Before:
http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...e/UNI_1553.jpg
http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...e/UNI_1556.jpg
Sanded back with 380 wet/dry sandpaper:
http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...e/UNI_1560.jpg
Primered with a few coats:
http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...e/UNI_1561.jpg
Then hit it with some colour:
http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...e/UNI_1562.jpg
Using the same steps as above.
Lip installed:
http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/6349/72230113.jpg
And here is my old EG's roof that I did:
Before:
http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...e/UNI_1066.jpg
http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...e/UNI_1072.jpg
http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...e/UNI_1067.jpg
http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...e/UNI_1064.jpg
Process:
http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...e/UNI_1091.jpg
http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...e/UNI_1089.jpg
http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...e/UNI_1090.jpg
http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...e/UNI_1088.jpg
http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...e/UNI_1124.jpg
http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...e/UNI_1183.jpg
http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...e/UNI_1183.jpg
End:
http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...e/UNI_1157.jpg
http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...e/UNI_1167.jpg
http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...e/UNI_1193.jpg
http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...e/UNI_1191.jpg
ALL USING THE SAME PROCESS AS ABOVE.
.......
Damn man sucks you're too busy woulda gotten you to do my respray!
wow....awesome. Reckon its possible to do it with pearl paint? I have a white eg and wanted to do it pearl but was told I would have to bake it? but I was hoping to do a diy cos it'd be heaps cheaper...
Yeah to get best results you will want to bake it if you are going to play with pearls. You can probably get pearls in acrylics and do it at home, I'm not too sure.
The OEM captiva blue has a silver pearl in it, and I got that in Acrylic, so maybe you can, but it wouldn't be as good as you think, and if you haven't tryed it before, I wouldn't be trying to paint pearl straight away, it consists of different mixing ratios that I'm not too fond of.
i was thinking cos its pearl i should get the pros to do it...i'd sand it and prime it all myself...then all they have to do is spray and bake =) then it will be cheaper!
Yeah it will be cheaper to prep it yourself :)
Gluck and show us some pics when your done
i primed my lip with plastic primer, was clear not grey so i decided to change to the grey primer just to be safe since the guides use that.
i sanded off what primer i could but i dont think i did good enough cos i sprayed primer (grey one) and i can see cracks. would the original primer be causing this? or something else?
+ could i have just used paint stripper to get the original primer off or....? thanks in advance
DO NOT USE PAINT STRIPER ON PLASTIC!
What grit are you using ?
Can you show pictures ?
hey mate if the lip had no repairs and new like u would use the plastic primer than paint straight on it with no rubbing need plastic primer works as an adhesive.Quote:
Originally Posted by dvsx
dont not paint strip the lip unless u pick up some plastic bar paint stripper but still isnt all that eats into the plastic still....
if i was u just take it to a panel beater or spray painter to do it, its only a lip wouldnt cost much at all to get done
I wouldn't use paint stripper on plastic ANYTHING.
+1Quote:
Originally Posted by tiksie
Mate if you're keen take your time sanding it, when its sanded properly, after you apply the primer evenly it should be fine..
If you still have trouble then take it to the pros lol
phew lucky i didnt lol i used 240grit i think it was to sand off the original primerQuote:
Originally Posted by tiksie
heres a pic if u can see the cracks. ive just primed it, havent begun sanding yet with 800grit as mentioned in your DIY
and i lied, im painting rear pods and side skirts. figured it would blend in ok if i dont do a great job cos my cars black anyway lol
http://img375.imageshack.us/img375/4607/image0161.jpg
It seems you haven't sanded it properly man.
It's just a paint crack, under the layer.
Just keep sanding it until you get it matte, after that re-apply primer (grey primer).
do some paints require certain colour base colour? i have a dc4 and i just sanded off the clear coat and roughed up the paint coat abit and sprayed back on and the colour is way darker. its that midnight purple / blackcurrent colour
You just painted the exact same colour ?
If you resprayed the whole car, it's normal that it will be darker as your OEM paint will fade from time and look lighter.
yeah painted exact same colour on quater pannel and bumper, some asian guy told me that it needs a white base to reflect the colour properly or something. btw i cant tell if its the same colour until i put the clear coat on.
post up some pics
well done... looks awesome..
question though... how is the acrylic paint holding up over time? ive been reading it doesnt last too long...
not sure how true it is though..
any without clear coat.. doesnt it mean that everytime u polish, you are essentially removing paint and not clear?
Holy fcuk that's good y don't you start doing if for ppl I know a few mates that have have some panels that could do with a good respray
Photos are down :( :(
Yeah my photobucket limit is gone skes lol
I was thinking of using an air compressor like you did for the red EG. Any recommendations on what to get? Air Compressors, guns and what not. I'm planning to do my fenders first as they are shot and even a muck up on them is better then present.
Hence why alot of people are stupid when there car goes for a repair but only a fender and bonnet gets fixed and they notice the difference in colour.. Kinda can't blame the shop because Solid Paints fade easily and need lots of care to prevent them while paints with Clear don't fade as easily....Quote:
Originally Posted by tiksie
To prevent fading on Solid Based paints, regular polish and wax is required weekly especially cause of the harsh aussie sun...
Thought i should add that....
BTW if your spraying Milano Red... Recommended that you don't use clear as solid paints & clear don't work the best...... Don't turn out as great...
Hope this helps you out dude for your article as i've been told this by many detailers.
Hey WATAJK,
It's not exactly a good idea to respray a whole car and not clear coat it.
I clear coated my red EG, and it looked better than the bare paint..More shiney and what not.
If you don't clear coat it, it won't be long until it starts to fade.
So in regards "It doesn't turn out as great" That's right; because it turns out MUCH better :)
Whoever told you that solid paints (Assuming that you mean Acrylic) don't work great with clears, they obviously haven't heard of "Acrylic Clear" or as they would say, Solid Clear.
Im not doubting you at all dude but from what panel shops have told me when i went through the process of getting my car resprayed in Milano Red.. This is what i was told...Quote:
Originally Posted by tiksie
Solid base paints fade as i said and this is the downside, ask any panel shop if you don't believe me dude :)
WATAJK you are talking about 2pac paint as in a solid means you spray the colour and its shiny already and the other system is clear over base which is better as you said last longer when applied properly.
with acrylic paint system which has been used by tiksie, its a clear over base system as well just does not last as long these days because they dont make acrylic paints as good as they used to on the old school cars. just have to buff it after painting and comes up with a reall good finsh but always have to polish it to give it depth or it will just go to shit!!!!
WATAJK,
All good man, I'm not doubting you either, just everyone has different theories that's all - I would rather take advice from my teacher that taught me how to spray who taught spraying for 35+ years.
That's right sxmachine, you hit the nail on the head :) But acrylic doesn't fade as fast as some people say it does.. You just have to put more maintenance into it - But ofcourse; go with 2pak if you can, you can get much much better results if applied correctly and in the right environment.. I just wish I had access to an oven :(
This is something i didn't know... Thanks for that, you learn soemthing new everyday :)Quote:
Originally Posted by sxmachine
+1 Rep to you my friend :)
The only reason i said what i did was because i asked my panel beater to add clear but he said no, because 2Pack Milano Red is a solid base paint which has a clear to bring out the shine which makes this colour so nice but the downfall is that it has no UV protection and thats why i said it's a pain to maintain like i tell other owners because it requires regular wasx and polish...Quote:
Originally Posted by tiksie
But i agree with both your theories..
I didn't remember the fact you sprayed acrylic and mine was done in 2PAK...
Just keep in mind, spraying 2PAK in your backyard is illegal :P
hey guys how much paint is needed for a full respray ?? 2-3coats ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by WATAJK
The fine is between 15k - 30k.
I'm sure there wouldn't have been a problem with your panel beater putting a clear coat over it.. Its more shine and gives much more protection, even in 2K.
DC2R0636,
I highly doubt you are going to attempt spraying anything with a question like that, but for future refference, you will need about 4-5 litres of colour.
Here is milano red ACRYLIC straight off the gun, base, no clear coat on it yet..
http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...e/UNI_0766.jpg
Note that there is NO clear coat on it and it's Acrylic!
where did i say i was going to respray my car? just was curious
He didn't say you were going to respray your car, he said "anything" in terms of anything at all from a lip to a panel etc etcQuote:
Originally Posted by dc2r-0636
;) thanks for the input
Any input is good input :)
The thing what i was told... the reason he didn't put clear was because it's solid and also 2Pak solid paints come with abit of clear in them (SOLID's only)...
My car to be honest, is pretty shiney but then again that's probably cause i always wax and polish her :)
Gotta look after solid based paints more then clear coat paints IMO..
Good stuff with the painting dude :thumbsup:
Post up some pictures of what you got sprayed man :D Would be good to show the difference between acrylic and 2K, 2K is godlike! I love the stuff.
Sweet!
Looks awesome.
how can you make it that shine, if not apply any clear??
how can you do that? what did u apply to make it looks shine
its a solid comes out shiny of the gun. clear over base coat is a different system altogetherQuote:
Originally Posted by wtfalfred
Sxmachine
Hey man I know you do resprays, and I was just wondering like if you could spray my rocker cover for me? I was thinking about going like a really blingy colour, something really metallic and shiny lol was just wondering how much you would charge, how long it would take and if you could refit as well?
Ur inbox is full lols
Hey guys
this might be a stupid question.
but where do you buy proper car paint from? can you get it at autobahn and get them to colour match it?
I got four month off and thought i'll respray my whole car :D
oh and how much would it cost roughly, to respray the whole car (small 4 door sedan) by yourself?
Paint prices vary.
Just search on yellow pages for places that sell automotive paints.
I sprayed my red EG for $150 - $250 from memory.
pm sent and inboxed emptiedQuote:
Originally Posted by pablos8
tiksie, wish you were in melb!
I need a few tips. I've got a front bar (OEM, plastic) and front lip (polyurethane) which I need to strip, sand and prime. I'll then take them to a panelbeater to get the final spray done as I want a perfect finish and don't have a compressor at home.
noob questions (haven't done much spraying in the past):
1) is acetone an alright thinner to be wiping down the panels with before each round of sanding?
2) what sort of primer do I need? these parts are plastic/PU which means the paintjob needs to be able to handle small amounts of flex from bottoming out etc. Do I need to use a special plastic primer, or is the K&H primer from autobarn ok, or do I need to use plastic primer, THEN the normal primer? tips here would be great as I don't want the paint cracking if I scrape the front end on driveways etc.
3) also, do I need to tell the panel shop to use any additives in the paint so that it's suitable for use on the flexible plastic surfaces?
Thanks in advance, and great thread :thumbsup:
bump? plastic primer or not?
ah, i spray my lip today,
i still cant get my paint look like ur shiny.
once after all the paint... should i sand it down with 2000 grit sand paper, and then i polish it, but it still look "matt"
is it because i use spray can, not the compressor??
and how to mix the thinner??
Water and thinner?? or just put the thinner into the compressor?
wtfalfred - Bit of a delayed response but in order to mix your Base Coat or Clear Coat you'll need to follow instructions on the label / suppliers directions. Base Coats for acrylic can vary, usually around 1:1 or 2:1 paint to thinners depending on the brand.
If you are going to do this from home you should buy proper safety gear such as goggles, respirator, disposable overalls & rubber gloves.
For equipment you can use a HVLP gun. Anything with a 1.8 - 2.0 tip is to be used for primer/filler, 1.3-1.4 tip to be used for base coats and clear coats as they are finer. You'll need a decent compressor ideally belt driven with specification to suit your spray guns. It's also wise to get a water / air separator and filter to ensure no water form the compressor is pushed through the spray guns. You get what you pay so ask the supplier and get equipment best suited to your needs and budget.
Make sure you use a paint strainer as not doing so can cause your spray gun to clog up. You need to mix the paint and thinners in a mixing cup and then pour it into the spray pot through the paint strainer which is on the spray gun.
2K paint (also known as 2PAK) consitst of Paint, Reducer and Hardener which should be left to a pro to do. It's very toxic and requires proper ventilation. Do not attempt at all costs.
Spraying from a can won't get you a glossy result, it's just the way it is. The particles don't come out fine like they do in a proper spray gun which uses much more pressure than the spray cans.
SXmachine - you can get your rocker cover sand / bead blasted and then polished. This will give you the best result. No Paint required.
Euroman deluxe - You need to use plastic primer if you are painting directly onto fresh plastic / PU. Once you have enough coats you can use normal paint on top.
Shogun124 - you need to buy all of the equipment and then on top of that the paint. You'll need at least 8 litres of thinners, 4-6 litres of base coat (depending on the car and if you are doing the door jambs), 4 litres of clear, 4 litres primer (depending if you need it), Air Sander, Sand paper, plastic sheets, masking tape and some other bits here & there as required. I spent close to $300 all up on just the paint and thinners just to give you an idea (including Filler & Primer).
Hey guys just confirming, I'm about to have a go at respraying my second hand type R wng I purchased which is fleuro green so are these the right steps to follow?
- Sand back with 380 wet/dry until all green is gone and area is super smooth
- 2 - 3 coats of primer
- 2 - 3 coats of Alpine White (Or until satisfied)
That right? Will I need to add clear coat or ..? Thanks!
Sand it back 380 > 600 > 800 > 1200
Always clean with wax and grease remover.
Add few coats of primer.
Sand back with 600 > 800 > 1200
Apply colour
Then apply clear
Taking proper steps is all you need to do to get good results from spray cans.Quote:
Originally Posted by poweredbyhonda