hey guy's have a look at these, before i buy them wanna be 100% they fit my ek d16y4. thanks:thumbsup:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/CIVIC-EG-EK-C...ts_Accessories
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hey guy's have a look at these, before i buy them wanna be 100% they fit my ek d16y4. thanks:thumbsup:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/CIVIC-EG-EK-C...ts_Accessories
hi, i personally havent bought them before but know people that have and they fit perfect, besides worst case scenario you will nee the exhaust shortened or extended 2", but usually they are 100% direct fit
i have them in my d16y7, made a big difference in throttle response, no problems with installing them but you might need a flexi pipe,
and if your cataylic converter is connected to your stock y4 headers, you will need a new cat.
hey strawberry face, if you are getting a set let us know, see if they will do it cheaper for 2 sets.
Ebay headers are a bargain for D-series. They flow better and save weight
Bro honestly I purchased exhaust from Ebay said it would fit EK Civic hatch and when I got to the exhaust place the parts didn't even marry up with each other.
cheap as man BUT hopefully they match up lol
Well if tim says it fits his car then yeah shouldnt have a problem.
But if you have the funds and choice to choose between the ebay one and mugen then id prob go with the mugen. Do it once and do it right.
there 160 deliverd to my door step not complaining man and they should line up nice. how much does something like this cost to install??
i bought this for my eg civic D16A8 direct bolt on to stock cat :)
how much did it cost you too install man?? or you doo it yourself?
yep they lined up perfect same with Wills d16y1 (will13)
it costed me $200.00 but i also did the high flow cat an muffler installed, to install the headers it should be around $50-80
just install the headers yourself, its piss easy. but if it doesnt line up all happy, then you might need an exhaust shop to do some chop & change, and possibly a cat to go in too.
imo, dont waste your money on mugen headers, its just not worth pouring so much coin into a d-series.
its the easiest thing ever , just unbolt ur stock headers and rebolt the new one exact same process but in reverse its DIRECTLY the same but just different set of headers :)
piss easy
yeh ill doo it myself, and wanna buy a high flow cat ek coupe helped me out alot with that cheers again mate. need too find barrel 1 now :)
no worries man, Good luck;)
N*Power is great value for D-series. TheSaint also uses them and has said they're a perfect fit.
For the love of God don't buy anything Mugen for your D-series.
When u mean perfect fit, will it bolt up to stock D series cat directly?
tempted to buy these later on... but im still unclear as to boostin the motor later next year, or swap, so prbs not gonna bother with these
No real neg reviews, my mate has these on his D16y1, says there excellent for what they are, an does increase performance slightly... good bang for buck mod
Mugen parts=wank factor for D-series lol
lol glad i posted these up now fukn cheap as chips for everyone!!! cant wait get mine soon :)
ekcoupe - Where about's did you get your exhaust, cat and headers done?
I want to get mine done but don't know of any good places in Brisbane. Any recommend a place?
I would also get these headers as I have a D16y1
i got them done by Geoff @ Sebrings Exhausts but his on the gold coast right near pacific fair, definally recommend him i have only heard positive feedback about him:thumbsup:
Mugen never made any header for D-series.. they DID make one for the 'ZC' which is known as a D16A8 or something in AUS spec..
Mate of mine has a brand new stainless 4-1 FOR SALE for D16's and it's apparently mugen-spec in terms of quality if nothing else, I was told they were 'made in the mugen factory' but i dont quite buy that.. they're a bit more expensive tahn the eBay 4-2-1, but i've seen the item and the welds etc are amazing !! plus it's a 4-1 so you will have a stronger top-end !!
PM me if you want to find out more.
PS. I'd reccomend spending $20-40 on a NEW OEM exhaust manifold gasket also.
Mugen did toy with D16, but i doubt mugen ever released any to public sales....Sohc as well
Even if they did released it for sale, it wouldnt sell, so its not worth selling
(http://wiki.clubcivicquebec.com/index.php?title=Mugen)
Exactly. WOTAM.
Funnily enough though 'Holley' actually built a 4-2-1 header for the D-series under their sister-brand 'Flowtech' which I found for $199 locally. They were AUS $676 to import and I got the last one in stock. Excellent quality, mandrel bent, stainless steel and ceramic coated :D
Wouldnt expect Holley to be messing with 4 cylinders, lol, but sounds the works, nice find...
I think i will order these in at end of year, given the financial circumstances as well :D, and plus, it does look good
are thous mandrel bent headers?
got the headers guys they look NICE. i went too 4 exhaust shops too see how much instillation will cost the cheapest was $150 most expensive was $250, i am really cbf doing myself at home. In the earlier posts people were saying it will cost between $40-80 how wrong they were.
Any close pics of the headers?
Like the welds and bends?
$150 too install headers that is a bit expensive i got 2 qoutes one was $70 an one was $100
edit: maybe they are including the flexi pipe for it to fit?
Tai- cbf taking photos man but the work is immaculate bro suggest you get it and ekcoupe no man they quoted that saying 150 for straight bolt on and extra if we got to modify it man wtf ay
maybe get a few more qoutes or just diy it;)
Header isn't hard to install. $150 is too much bro. Should be less than $100.
Have you got yourself a cat and cat-back?
negative man its a straight bolt on im buying high flow cat next week man still looking for one and yeh 150 is ridiculous man but soo cbf doing it on the floor. save me the headache.
whats the size when the headers come into one, when it merges for the cat, 2.25, or 2.5
I believe it's a 2" outlet.
@OP: Don't pay for installation until you have the cat and cat-back. Do all 3 at once, otherwise you'll waste $$$ on labour.
thats true guys but my brother juss rang me he asked his old boss if we can use his mechanic shop everything there needed and he said yeh no problem soo installing on wednesday there :) i was juss really cbf doing it on the floor at home. installed a SRI yesterday and love it sounds soo good now cant wait for the headers then high flow cat.
Errr...well if you have a SRI it will breathe in hot residual air produced by your engine, therefore decreasing the concentration of the O2 molecules in the volume of air being consumed by your engine, robbing you of potential power.
Isolating the filter to an area that only breathes cool air away from the engine allows it to breathe in a higher concentration of O2 molecules, increasing the power produced by your engine's combustion. Basic chemistry and free kilowatts.
The temperature that allows for the highest concentration of O2 molecules by volume is 4 degrees celsius.
metal heat shield/ metal air box arnt very effect as well, metal conducts heat, so its not as effective as u may think, plastic air box is only the real way to go, as it insults the air from the engine bay the best, it doesn't absorb heat as much as metal
with regards to heat soak, When summer comes around, u will feel that ur car has lost power and torque, driving in 35 degree heat, best to wack back on that air box, actually, come to think of it, with engine temp, itd be more so 45 plus degrees in the engine bay, so suckin in air that hot isnt the best, an u will notice pinging
Another note, with SRI, u will loose a bit of low end torque/power, as well as fuel economy, so having one is more so eye candy than performance mod
I believe plastic actually absorbs heat faster than metal, but sheds it quicker. Whereas metal absorbs heat slower but retains it for longer period.
Either way, having a metal heat shield with a cold air feed to your pod is effective by comparison to an unprotected SRI. I'm surprised you're even doubting the worth of a heat shield at all mate...
Ah ok, so really, best to keep to plastics id say
im jus taken it from my own personal experience with heat shield, but prove me wrong, im not sayin that it doesnt work, again, just from what iev seen
good points there lads. because of the heat the headers will let off what you's think about heat wrapping them? before installing
beeza did the heat wrap did a good job but it is going to smell for the first few days, but definally recommend wrapping them;) pretty sure it is only $50 an you can diy it
Heat wrapped headers last like 5 yrs. Plus if u do a bad job and leave a hot spot you'll shorten the lifespan further. Its only good for tracking to keep it from heating the oil from memory.
As above.
Just do away with your heat shield, you don't need these things unless you plan to race. One thing I like D-series headers for is their aesthetic value :)
just put some on my 84 SI 3rd gen with a zc didnt fit because its not a eg/ed/ef so i was expecting this made it fit was good very nice..
little hint for people fitting these dont touch them with your bare hands u will leave ur oils on the stainless when it gets hot it will show ur fingerprints use gloves when fit them then use thinners or alcohol to clean them before starting the engine this will make them nice and shiny
good tip Aaron - I use spraycan brake cleaner after installing header - then wipe with lint-free cloth.. then once u drive it - no fingermarks etc mmm..
if you buy a used header that is allready covered in fingermarks and smudges, get some 800grit, 1200 grit wet n dry sandpaper and go nuts.. then give a couple of times over with some metal polishing compound - i use meguiars 'Metal Polysh'.
installing myself on saturday boys cant wait. good tips would have had no idea that the finger marks would have showed up.
You can just wipe them down with a cloth and dish washing detergent if you don't have any brake cleaner etc
Take pictures of the install mate
make a diy;)
didnt know u could polish the marks out of em if they were 2nd hand
thats a good idea
Yeah, use sand paper and work up on the grit. Then finish with a good quality metal polisher. There's a DIY on this forum.
does anyone have a photo of these installed on an EK1? I literally saw these on ebay earlier tonight and thought hey, thats not a bad way to spend $160 but i bet theyre crap but now you guys have me convinced haha
Here is a picture of them installed on my old d16y7 similair to the y4 - http://i562.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/DSCN0632.jpg
They will be a perfect fit, but you will need to lengthen the o2 sensor because it will only be reading 1 cylinder, can take it to an electrician to do that.
depends which ones you buy some have 2 holes for o2 sensors that the one i bought. so if u got a eg or ek it will have either hole...
as you can see this is why you cant see my headers
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._7263797_n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._5010785_n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._6632484_n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._4444031_n.jpg
i have those exact ones on my car - fit like a charm and probably the best value for money mod i have done
http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/p...g?t=1285921828
check out my build thread for more info on installation etc