Amp needed to power 2 x 12 inch subs

Hey Guy's & Girls ..

I have 2x12 inch pioneer subs (below the champion series) its says 1000watt .. but i think per sub its like 300 rms ..

I was wondering if anyone could help me .. and tell me if this would suit my subs to run it .. i dont wanna under power my sub ...

Im looking at the below amps that my mate is offering me. 'Alpine or Cadence'. (Below are the spec's) I have no clue about amps or systems thats why i am asking people for suggestions or help.

Thanks Guy's

Alpine MRP-M450 V-Power Amplifier

- Alpine MRP-M450 V-Power Amplifier specifications
General
Product Type Amplifier
Recommended Use Car
Width 9.7 in
Depth 9.5 in
Height 2.4 in
Weight 6.2 lbs
Audio System
Amplifier signal-to-noise ratio 90.0 dBA
Amplifier continuous power / channel qty 220 Watts x 1
Amplifier output 1-channel
Amplifier high level inputs Yes
Amplifier input signal voltage 0.2 - 4V
Crossover type Active crossover
Crossover low pass frequencies 50 - 200 Hz
Crossover bass boost frequency 50 Hz
Crossover bass boost gain 0 to +12dB
Amplifier / Amplifier Class Class D
Amplifier Output Details 220.0 Watt - 4.0 Ohm - THD 1.0 % - 14.4V DC - 1.0 channel(s) , 400.0 Watt - 2.0 Ohm - THD 1.0 % - 14.4V DC - 1.0 channel(s)
Additional features Gold plated connectors , Subsonic filter , Over current protection , Thermal protection , Gain control
Connections
Connector Type 1.0 x Speakers input ( RCA phono x 2 ) , 1.0 x DC power input ( Screw-type ) , Speakers output ( Screw-type ) , Audio line-in


OR

Cadence zrs 510z car amplifier


SPECIFICATIONS:
4 Ohm RMS Power: 2 x 150 Watts @ 13.8 Volts
2 Ohm RMS Power: 2 x 300 Watts @ 13.8 Volts
4 Ohm Mono RMS Power: 1 x 600 Watts @ 13.8 Volts
Frequency Response: 10Hz - 40KHz
Channel Seperation: >65 dB
S/N Ratio: >100 db
Damping Factor: >200 @ 100Hz
Minimum THD: <0.044%
Input Voltage: 200 mV - 8 Volts
Dimensions: 15" x 9.4" x 2.4"
FEATURES:

High Speed Mosfet Power Supply
Bi-Polar Japanese Sanken Output Devices
Copper Rail PCB Architecture
24 dB Crossover Circuitry
Fully Adjustable Low/High Pass Crossover
High Pass Crossover: 50Hz - 500Hz
Low Pass Crossover: 50Hz - 150Hz
Bass Boost Equalization: 0-18db @ 45Hz
Lucite Encapsulated Large 4 Gauge Terminals
Soft Start Mute & Delay
Adjustable Phase Control

WILL GIVE REPUTATION if correct information is offered =]

if NONE of the amps are correct for the sub .. please let me know ..

there is no point of me buying and amp for the sub .. but it does nothing

whats your "realistic" budget?

like 250-300 ...

but my mate is selling these 2 amps dead cheap to me apparently ..

so in your opinion .. none of theses amps suit my subs?

what are the impedance ratings of your subs? dvc, svc, 4+4ohm, 2+2ohm, etc etc

they both dont offer much power at 4ohm but that might not matter depending on your usage & expectations of loud. out of the 2, id go the alpine.. but really either will run your subs fine. you're not gonna notice any major difference between em anyway.

whatever your mate is offering for cheaper i guess

im not too sure what type of ohms my subs are running on ..

how do i find out?

thanks though

should be written on the subs or use a multimeter to measure impedance

i think its 2ohm ..

go the alpenis then

in my opinion i woudnt buy either especially not cadence, since ure subs are 300rms each go for an amp with 800rms and higher, in my old setup i had a JL audio 400rms 12" sub running off a 1000rms response amp and all that extra power from the amp did help alot.

but u will need atleast $500 to buy a decent amp to power the subs to their full potential

im just after a decent amp costing me about 300-350 ?

any suggestions?

how much did the jbl and the responses cost you each?

matching up the power will be fine. you say 300W each, then get the pioneer GMD8500 mono bloc.
pretty sure it comes with a remote bass controller (depends where you get it from)
might set you back about $400
that'll crank out 600W RMS at 2OHM

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lsvtec

in my opinion i woudnt buy either especially not cadence, since ure subs are 300rms each go for an amp with 800rms and higher, in my old setup i had a JL audio 400rms 12" sub running off a 1000rms response amp and all that extra power from the amp did help alot.

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thats odd, people who have heard my system would tell you differently.

im running about 150wrms into a 10inch and it pretty much shakes the car. they know its a 10inch but cant believe its doing what its doing :)

edit: btw, i play real music through it too not bass discs

edit again: its not ported either

http://www.optionaudio.com.au/amplifiers_oax801.php i got one of those i got one for $280 on special i think there about 350ish

is option audio any good?

apparently they are a no name brand?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 2MPRS

http://www.optionaudio.com.au/amplifiers_oax801.php i got one of those i got one for $280 on special i think there about 350ish

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like most things they are made in china.

are these subs going into an S2000? if so, good luck with the thing sounding any good with any amp.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by adu

is option audio any good?

apparently they are a no name brand?

---

option audio has nice subs. amps well ive only ever experienced 1 and its maddddddd but like .. kickers mad to .. but look at there speakers? there not the best lol.

Every brand has there.. goods and bads.

invest a capacitor if you want to run both sub and you are using nomral heavy duty battery. Alpine will be able to pull both subs...but you will notice the engine is running on low power/headlight flashing...

^^no, just no..

his budget is 250-300. after getting a basic cap that doesnt leave much for an amp.

batterys got nothing to do with anything.

alpine, will be able to 'PULL' both subs?

he wont have problems with low voltage or headlight/dashlight flashing if the electrical system is up to scratch with adequate power & grounding. if the electrical system isnt in top-notch condition already then a cap will just strain it some more.

did i just get trolled?

u only need a capacitor if u have more than 2 amps if their very powerful.

mate you need to see if the subs are dual 2ohm or dual 4ohm if they are dual 2ohm then monoblock is your best option but lsvtec is dead right you need more power the response amp hes talking about the big mono they do is suitable for both dual 2 or dual 4 being that its 1 ohm stable it would definately be the best bang for your buck.

my advise buy the jay car response mono it covers you either way.

a cap is a waste of time for most systems there only good for adding weight to the vehicle there are plenty of things that need to be looked at before a cap is added to the mix most people install caps because there friend saw one in somebody elses car and said they look cool but for the most part can do more harm then good

A cap is like a band aid, it's just covers the problem. If your running equipment that draws high Amps, maybe invest in a second battery in the boot (optima etc...). Also do the BIG 3 upgrade, By earthing the battery and chassis with 0 guage wire and adding 0 gauge wire from the alt to the postive on the battery. This should ensure you won't drop below the 12V mark and also eliminate headlight dimming al together.

Also look outside the square, with brands like DD,Morel,hertz,sound digital, setetsom, MM, atomic. All these brands make really top notch amps and subs. If your gonna buy a system. Spend the money now and then you wont feel the need to upgrade when you feel your cheap set up isn't loud enough.

We have all been there before. Iv'e spent close to what a new getz cost on my system and im not regretting anything.

Also make sure you use the correct guage wire in your install and don't cut corners cause that is when fires start and you can void your insurence

Seriously... Any amp that is around $250-300 AU is going to be pretty much low-end, no matter what you are getting. As has been said MANY times so far, you can't judge anything by saying " 2 x 10" subs" as there's somewhere around 10,000,000 different combinations that they could be, and each different one would be best suited to a different amp, or combo of amps. There's also the question of sound quality vs sound level. do you want it to sound real, or to just thump hard? There's different aps for the two as well.