guys,
need a new clutch fopr my euro, want an aftermarket one considering i only got 40 k out of my honda one....anybody know where i can get one or even if they have them yet?
thanks
coco
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guys,
need a new clutch fopr my euro, want an aftermarket one considering i only got 40 k out of my honda one....anybody know where i can get one or even if they have them yet?
thanks
coco
send Exedy an email, the website is www.exedy.com.au
What the - is this not covered by warranty? How much is the replacement Honda one? Is there anything you do that impacts clutch life (eg at a stoplight do you have the clutch depressed or when you slow down to a stop do you gear down 4 to 3 to 2, etc?). This is crap news.Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueAccEuro
Do u mean 40Kms or 40000kms? That is fast for a clutch to wear out.. have you been sliding and dumping it in high RPM??
You are beginning to worry me now ........
Clutch should be covered under the warranty...
I know mine was covered under warranty when i burnt the clutch on my euro... They replaced the clutch plate under warranty and gave me a warning if i burnt it again it won't be covered under warranty...
My car smelt of burnt plastics for like 3 weeks...
it is so strange to have a clutch go so quickly on a Honda.
Pum[Z] - how did you kill yours?
Which is a better way to slow your car down? I just push the clutch in...
Quote:
Originally Posted by yfin
See red light - push clutch in, change into neutral and coast to a stop - use your brakes to slow down to a stop - rather than the engine. Also don't sit at the traffic lights in gear with your foot on the clutch pedal - sit in netural. Then put into first as lights are about to change green. :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by splunk
I know this is different to what most driving instructors in Victoria teach for those going for their P plates. They say you must always be in gear otherwise you are not in "control" of the car. Nonsense. They also say you should gear down to a stop - ie 4 to 3 to 2 to 1. :thumbdwn:
err...I disagree.
you should always slow down in gear, when before reaching to a complete stop (around 5-10kph) you can change it to neutral.
Lots of different views on this so I doubt we will reach consensus. It also depends on the circumstances - eg I will not coast on long hills, etc. I would prefer to replace brake pads than clutches and gearboxes. My dad, a mechanic of 35 years also advocates the method I describe above.Quote:
Originally Posted by baboo
Long complicated story.. It was raining, the VSA was turned off, there were 4 ppl in my car, loud music in the car, and i was giving my car a bit of stick...Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdongers
When i was changing to gear 2 due to the combination of 4 ppl in the car, loud music, vsa turned off and it was raining, my car could not get any traction and kinda did a burnout for a bit of a while...
In the end thats what burnt my clutch.. I only had done a tad more then 4000km on the car... Luckily it was covered by warranty.. Got to be more careful now with the clutch...
Let me try and get this... Effectively, your wheels were spinning due to the water on the road, but how does that burn out a clutch if it's already in and on the drivetrain unless your foot is planted halfway on the clutch and that would explain the clutch burning out because it's sliding under load... :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Pum[Z]
If you can be bothered doing heel and toe to use engine braking, I presume that's better than just letting out the clutch fully when gearing down I suppose. But different times calls for different techniques used.
I am with you - but I think even if Pumz was slipping the clutch at high rpm I don't think it should have burnt so easily. There are plenty of crappy manual drivers out there who slip all the time and rest their foot on the clutch pedal day in day out. I would be very dissapointed if my clutch went on the Euro - even if I did what Pumz did.Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroAccord13
*ECU-MAN EDIT* i wasn't too sure if my second gear was totally in or what.. All i know is that when i dumped the second gear in it was hovering at 3500-4000 rpm and staying at that rpm till i took the accelerator off.. By then the burnt plastic smell of the burnt clutch could be smelt...Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroAccord13
Geez. Are you sure you don't have to go back to driving school?
From what you said, I think you should before you burn out the new clutch again.
*ECU-MAN EDIT*
Hehhehehee...
No i don't think i need to go back to driving school.. It was a accident for me because i wasn't particularly paying attention...
Makes me wonder if the clutch on the Accord Euro is strong enuf when going for track days...
Makes me wonder too.. but I've had the car on a good workout and it is still going strong.. Maybe you really did left your foot on the clutch? :p :D :p :D
*WORRIES BADLY NOW*
Pum[Z]
Been on a few track days, the clutch felt fine afterwards.
Maybe you got a dodgy clutch or it was incorrectly installed at the assembly line.
Don't know but watever the deal is the second clutch is now fine and i don't have any problems with it.. done more then 7000 km on this clutch and it still feels good but i just don't turn my VSA off just in case....
Could be that the first clutch was dodgy don't know... Honda rectified it anyways....
Hey baboo when going for track days did u find that ur brakes faded easily afterwards?? I have to put a lot of brake force now because i find that its harder for me to stop with 19inch alloys...
As many Euro owners will know, the Euro brake fade easily.
The cheapest option is to get better brake pads and brake fluid.
U got any knowledge on what better brake pads and brake fluid are available in the aussie market for the Accord Euro??Quote:
Originally Posted by baboo
ENDLESS, talk to Steven @ www.centraxauto.com.au
they are the distributor of Endless brake pads and fluid.
Hey Baboo, do you have the Endless brake system on you euro? how are they and what was the damage if u dont mine. Im thinking of upgrading.
LOC888,
I just have the pads & fluid replaced with ENDLESS NA-R pads & RF650 brake fluid. totally transformed the car braking ability. No brake fade, more brake feel, generally just more control and feel under hard braking.
Price is not cheap. you are looking at $450 a pair for NA-R. But it's little price to pay for peace of mind.
if you want to go hardcore, you can opt for Endless 4/6 pot caliper system with Zeal slotted discs.
So u using the circuit/race endless brakes for ur normal driving baboo...Quote:
Originally Posted by baboo
Did u get for all four brakes or just ur fronts?? so its around $1100 for all 4...
I wouldnt mind getting this system, but r u sure this caliper system is CL9 Compatable. Didnt mention it on the Endless website....Quote:
Originally Posted by baboo
Anyway did they give u a price for this system baboo, let us know.
Thanks....
Yes NA-R is circuit/race pads but is not that hardcore, they don't need warming up like the CCX, MA22. Drive on the street with NA-R pads are perfectly fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pum[Z]
But if you don't do track work, you can use pads suited for streets.
I'm sure Centrax people will find that out for you, I'm pretty sure CL7 & CL9 braking components are identical therefore any aftermarket parts are compatible.Quote:
Originally Posted by LOC888
I don't know the pricing, but should starts from $3000+...you get caliper, discs and pads.
we are kinda off topic, should stay with the Clutch topic.:D
Sorry, thanks anyway
no problem at all, just hope the moderator don't mind.
Other option you could look at is Spoon caliper, brembo. but tell you the truth the stock Euro calipers & discs are big enough.
BlueAccEuro - you have not posted since starting this thread above (in fact you only have 3 posts at Ozhonda and use 2 different names - coco and josh). We need some more info as I am a suspicious kinda guy who thinks you may work for Mazda and want to bring down the reputation of the Honda Euro by saying you hvae a blown clutch already! hehe :DQuote:
Originally Posted by BlueAccEuro