radiator filled full, overflow correct level.
When it gets to operating temperature, coolant flows to overflow.
When it cools, coolant stays in overflow, doesn't go back to radiator.
Radiator level is down.
what is the problem?
changed cap already.
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radiator filled full, overflow correct level.
When it gets to operating temperature, coolant flows to overflow.
When it cools, coolant stays in overflow, doesn't go back to radiator.
Radiator level is down.
what is the problem?
changed cap already.
changed both small hoses....... the one inside the overflow and also the one from the overflow to radiator.
I can see the problem, but don't know how it's occurring.
Overflow bottle and pipe are a little bit clear and i can see there is a break in the coolant flow. Can see the blue coolant going into the bottle but out of no where there is air.
It breaks the flow of coolant back to radiator.
Just 20 minutes running and its missing several hundred ml from the radiator.
Just doing my head in trying to figure out how and why......
going on a long trip tonight, need it fixed.
Can't see leaking coolant anywhere.
What radiator is it? ( stock or aftermarket)
Is it def the correct cap?
Is the thermostat opening?
Is the overflow OEM and in the original location?
yes.Quote:
Originally Posted by markismaximus
Koyo dc2 radiator, tried 2 caps, correct caps, definitely.Quote:
Originally Posted by TODA AU
thermostat opens. bottom hose can be felt cool then later hot.
one cap is cpc one from supercheap, other is denso one that came with radiator.
should i buy another cap again?
with the koyo rad does the cap sit at the same height as the original rad? not sure if a difference in height could cause issues
Is the small hose in the overflow cut at an angle so the pipe isnt being blocked?
Possibly try lifting/lowering the overflow bottle to see if a change in height makes any difference
I'll cut it now, doubt it would make difference.Quote:
Originally Posted by markismaximus
small hose diameter was 8 or 9 mm. new hoses are about 5 or 6 mm.......
make a difference?
height shouldn't be an issue, was working well for a while. but really can't tell because it has always had some leaking issue unrelated to this. so the coolant level was never stable.
Now I've fixed everything i can think of and this happens.
inside where the cap goes, it has turned black, the silver alloy has turned black where the cap seals.
will this cause sealling issue?
i wanna buy another cap but if i'm wrong, i waste more money.
Are you 100% sure there are no leaks?
Is the amount of coolant going into the overflow approximately the same as the amount your losing from the rad?
Drain your coolant into a container and flush the system for 5-10 mins with a hose, see if any crap comes out.
How old's the thermostat? Just because the bottom hose gets hot doesn't mean the thermostat is fine, could be opening only slightly.
possibly. decreasing the size of the hoses will make it more difficult for coolant to pass through them. As more vacuum/pressure is needed to move the same amount of coolant.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bludger
Has this only started happening since changing hose size?
I see, so it was working previously with the same setupQuote:
Originally Posted by Bludger
as long as there is no gunk or buildup around the seal the blackening of the alloy shouldn't cause any sealing issues.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bludger
thats just the way diagnostic repairs go unfortunately. you'll spend money on new parts purely to rule them out as the cause
F it, I'm just gonna buy a new cap and leave it at that till i get back.
Coolant capacity is about 9 liters and I'll carry a spare bottle of coolant with me.
Highway driving, the fans never get to turn on anyway with the Koyo being so efficient.
I'll check back with results...........
Such a pitty cos since the rebuild, the c2 has been nothing but a charm to drive, lovely power, smooth delivery.
Just small little BS issues, been dealling with them ever since the rebuild.
If anyone got a very good condition dc2 vtir overflow setup that is unloved, please post here so i can love it.
maybe minute crack in the plastic.
the hose size itself doesnt matter. as long as its clean and not bent.
now by saying its missing coolant. can you see coolant in your radiator when you open it ?
go to one of your mates garage and pressure test your system, if that comes back alright , then it would be your lid.
a cpc lid does the job, its costs 8 bucks.
now you say its letting the coolant out but not back , are you filling right to the neck then running the car then running it.
but my main question is when you say its not coming back, your looking inside the radiator and what do you see exactly, any coolant.
edit, worse case would be a crack somewere in the head. btw does your car always smell like coolant ?
lol i hate cooling problems, my s13 had plenty of them. used to chew more coolant then fuel~
I hate them too. drive me up the wall.Quote:
Originally Posted by hisoka
they are never as simple as diagnosing other problems. any other thing and i will have an answer, but coolant just shits me.
bought another cap, see how we go tonite.
how easy to pressure test?
never had 1 done.
dont you need that special tool?
saw it in service manual.
Did you re-use the old head bolts?
Friends car, not sure if reused.
Pretty sure everything was new.
You tuned this car Adrian. First had OBX cams but bad build, then purchased toda cams off you and then you tuned it, remember?:)
LOL...Vague memories... Sorry, I tune a lot of cars :p (It's easier to remember with faces & names rather than internet nic names - I never remember who is who through that)Quote:
Originally Posted by Bludger
If they're new, I'm barking up the wrong tree...
If they're re-used, there is a chance there is seepage past the head gasket.
The magic blue liquid will tell the story.
& the fix could be a simple as swapping out 1 head bolt at a time & replacing it with a new one & a magic tablet for insurance ;)
Magic tablet (powder) - http://www.seallock.com.au/seal_tabs.html
Magic Liquid - http://www.vektools.com.au/lisle-com...or-p-2725.html
If I'm wrong on that,
Pressure test the cooling system & confirm there are no leaks.
If no leaks, you may have an air bubble in the head/engine & you need to burp it.
You can do the with a cut down 1.25L Coke bottle, a roll of electrical tape & a bottle of water.
A slight slope helps too.
Park the car nose up, cut the bottom out of the coke bottle, tap up the cap end with elsectrcal tap to increase the diameter to fit in the radiator neck.
Fit & fill with water well above radiator height, (approx 5cm from full)
Hold in place & start car(run)
Be sure to have the heater on too so the water flows through the heater core too.
if you can still see coolant in the radiator then its okay , just keep driving it, and checking the top up tank and the radiator when its not hot.
you only have a problem when the level of the coolant drops below the fins.~
and by experience even then you can drive around.
infact i drove my s13 for about 15 minutes drifting with no coolant... worked good forever, pretty bullet proof.
just keep checking it, and use ure new lid aswell
went melb and back.
went fine.
I think its head gasket, will check back soon.
^ any white smoke from exhaust? iirc it'd be blowing some white smoke if the waters burning in the cylinder
also oil or coolant milky at all? that'd happen if water/oil is mixing from the bhg
just another theory
are you using premix or concentrate?
perhaps theres not enough coolant and the water's boiling off forcing it into the overflow and out
when it cools down the pressure drops and so does the water level in the cooling system itself(and obviously sitting inside the overflow bottle and on the road)
oil is fine, coolant is fine.
using Honda coolant.
will check back.
I'll check the smoke.
May I please get a bit of your time and others as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by TODA AU
Lets just say I pressure tested the system and there is a small leak.
Assuming it is the head gasket, I would like to replace it myself.
I've replaced a head gasket on a mediocre Colt engine and also a 6 cylinder Cressida engine before.
They were back in the day, didn't really matter if they blew up in the end.
This B18c has had a lot of money spent on it and I would like it done right by taking all the right steps.
I'll ask the person who assembled the engine, if the head studs were re-used, I'll replace them with ARP items.
If the head was secured with ARP head studs, can I re-use the ARP head studs?
After I take off the head, does it need resurfacing before being installed again?
I've never resurfaced heads before, just always put them back on. Want this done right.
Anything else that I have left out or is it just take head off, new gasket and head back on...... ????
Any information is appreciated.
Thanks
your inbox is full bludger
what do you want to pm me?
My pm doesn't work...
Quote:
Originally Posted by TODA AU
Before you throw in the towel on the head gasket, you need to confirm it is the issue & not just a small leak somewhere in the cooling system. (Seeping joint, pin-hole in a hose etc)Quote:
Originally Posted by Bludger
As above, use the magic blue liquid to confirm the G/K is the issue.
If it is, befoe you pull the head, seriously, try what I said & change the bolts 1 at a time & add a seal tab.
If that fails, then look at pulling the head .
To do the job righ the head should be serviced. (Not all head services are equal either)
Stone the deck of the block as a minimum & use all new gaskets.
ARP studs should be checked for length before re-use, but realisticly it's not a bit expence to use new std head bolts or ARP studs. To be frank, there's nothing wrong with the OEM head bolt when new.
Re leak...
Did you see where the leak is or is it an asumption it's the head gasket casue the source of the leak couldn't be located?
throw some chemiweld in there..use as described u have to run it then flush n blah blah...if that fixes the problems and it doesnt loose problem then hello headgasket then uc an dig further into getn new hedstuds etccc...i used chemiweld in my d16y8 n it worked a treat till the new owner thought hel b a madkunt and thrash the car in 30 degree weather meh :)
Chemiweld won't fix a leaking hose ( eg: heater hose) which it may well be.Quote:
Originally Posted by najdi
The approach to the problem should be logical & methodical.
Other wise you risk making a mistake & wasting both time & money.
The sealtabs are also about 200% better than Chemiweld.
Thanks very much for your information Adrian. Appreciated. Sometime in the distant future, I'll contact you for prts regarding my car.:)Quote:
Originally Posted by TODA AU
dont use chemiweld, unless you absolutely need the car, for a track day or something.
i used to use it alot mind you, and the tectaloy one works great. just pour it in your radiator and thats it, sealed up every leak i knew i had and even some i didnt know.
it also does show you were coolant is coming out from if it cant seal the area, there will be a fluro yellow green crust around that area.
i seriously having hard time trying to understand your post. derp.Quote:
Originally Posted by najdi
Bludger did you solve the issue yet ? what was the problem ?
nah, car is in Sydney and been working in Melbourne.
Get back early Feb so will get stuck into it then.
was BHG.
what the fuk am i readingQuote:
Originally Posted by mocchi
damn, you re-do it yourself?Quote:
Originally Posted by Bludger
not my car, owner didn't trust me.
lmzooo
but I have done it on another b18c BHG, same situation.
if youve changed the cap id be inclinded to change the thermostat as it may not be opening 100% then if that doesnt fix it headgasket
^ don't people go past the first post these days? was a blown headgasket in the end
yeh ..
same issue i have, its leaning towards a BHG
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...-returning-WTF
dude, this is old, i linked it for you for some reference.
Ik.. But sum1 else reborned/undead the thead.. LolQuote:
Originally Posted by Bludger