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My friends just bought a Integra GSI 1994 with 162000ks, he got a Rev check at it ended up being a First month 1995 Model. He was told by the Owner it was Imported from Japan. Just checking it the Jap Spec has a diff engine, cause it feels like it has Vtec power when revving high.
Any ideas?
All Honda's are imported from Japan. They are made there.
The GSi model is an Australian delivered vehicle. Meaning it was sold to the Australian market.
You should have been able to see the date of manufacture stamped in the engine bay.
Yeah i found it, it Says 1/1995, and help about the Engine, or are the GSI stock engines just naturally Zippy, it revs out to 7000 rpmQuote:
Originally Posted by Vvvtec
Yeah, sounds like my teg. Build date is December 97 but it's a facelifted model and registered as 1998.
What's the engine number on a JDM GSi? Wait have we actually worked out if it's an import? DC4's weren't badged as 'GSi' in Japan, were they? If there is no number after the last letter on the block stamp, it's a Jap motor. Ie: 'B18B' rather than the 'B18b2' that we get on Aus delivered motors.
Anyway, it's no B18c. It will still go hard for what it is, it's really not a bad motor. Main thing that I feel let's the GSi down is the gearbox... It's pretty lame.
GSI's are normally non-vtec.
integras's are a high reving car.
check the engine number.
Gsi's redline at like 6900. They don't have V-tec but you still get a little boost in the higher rev range.Quote:
Originally Posted by sneakygreek
It doesnt have a GSI badge at all, and wasnt debadged. Next time i see the car i will try Locate the Block stamp, where is it normally? is B18B Vtec at all or just revs good? I noticed that about the Gearbox aswell
b18b is NON vtecQuote:
Originally Posted by sneakygreek
from wikipedia
B18B1
* NON-VTEC
* Found in:
o 1994-2001 Acura Integra "RS/LS/GS/SE" (DC4/DB7)
o 1992-1996 JDM Honda Domani (MA5)
o 1993-1994 JDM Honda Inta (DB7)
o 1996-1999 JDM Honda Orthia (EL1)
+ Displacement: 1,834 cc (111.9 cu in)
+ Compression: 9.2:1
+ Bore: 81 mm (3.2 in)
+ Stroke: 89 mm (3.5 in)
+ Rod Length: 137.01 mm (5.394")
+ Rod/Stroke Ratio: 1.54
+ Power: 142 hp (106 kW) @ 6300 rpm & 130 ft·lbf (180 N·m) @ 5200 rpm
+ Redline: 6800 rpm (7200 rpm on JDM Domani)
+ Rev Limit: 7200 rpm
+ Transmission: Y80/S80
+ JDM version is marked B18B on the block without any number.
+ JDM version has a compression 9.4:1 where the usdm version is 9.2:1.
+ JDM versions higher comprsion rating results in higher hp and tq levels than the usdm version.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_B_engine#B18B1
To the left of the headers and down a bit on the block. I'd post a pic but I'm at work on my iPhone sorry! Can't miss it really.Quote:
Originally Posted by sneakygreek
All i know is that it goes damn hard, even with me and my friend, who weights 94kg, Number Plate is 725-LUI if any1 sees it around
Lol you'd love a B18c if you think a GSi goes hard :D
Ist not breathtaking, but for what he paid, and its stock apart from a cannon, goes well for what it is.
Good to hear :) I have a friend who owned a DA9 teg, with the same engine that your friends GSi has (just an older model) with I/H/E and that thing hammered aswell.
Yeah my friend is going to Get Extraxtors, CAI and Straigh Through exhaust aswell, should make it sound nice and mean
GSis do go hard, for what they are. They're quick enough.
Yes i have now learnt that are not bad, is it worth him getting a ECU for it, or not worth it?
Not really worth it. I'll pass on some good advice. Get a good gearbox. Or even better, tell your mate to save all his cash on modding this engine and drop in a stock B18c2.
What's his budget? How serious is he?
Well he Paid $5500 for it, White, King Super Lows, 15 Enkei racing Wheels, Cannon and MP3 Player, Sunroof. He just wanted a cheap nice car for his First Car. I think a B18C may be out of his Budget, how much and what gearbox wdo u recommend
Lol a b18c2 swap is very minimal these days and I owned a vti-r on my first car and I honestly loved those days
B18c2 is a great engine! You should be able to pick one up around the $3k mark.
As for gearbox, something with better ratios than the B18b one. Ie: any VTEC B-series. Best option is a B16a gearbox, out of an ek4 VTi-R Civic. Aslong as it's running a hydraulic clutch (first gen B18b's ran cable set ups).
OR
Stick to just the basic bolt-on mods and be happy with it. I'm guessing this is your friends first car?
He doesn't need power. Spend money on some good suspension instead. A car that handles well is a car that's fun. Not only will it be more fun and enjoyable to drive, it will feel quick too.
Ill speak to him about it, how much would a good gearbox cost?
Here's an example:
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...t=b16a+gearbox
You'd be looking at roughly between $700-1000.
For half that price you could get some DC2r shocks and LCA's... Depends what he wants out of the car.
^^^ save your money. I had a GSi and i know that squeezing power out of them is very hard. Dont muck around with the motor as its just a wate of maoney. Get it looking n sounding good and then if the wallet allows drop a B18C or K20/24. Its pricey but well worth it.
I also used to think my GSi was a weapon haha... actually not much slower than a stock B18C2 so prob not worth the conversion unless u pick up a motor for peanuts... cheapest way to get power is prob LS/VTEC or B20 (in which case its worth looking for a B16 box or shorted final drive) but lots of stuffing around compared to a straight swap.
IMO leave the motor alone n if in the future the budget allows for it n ur keen do a swap. My 2c.
I used to think my D16Y1 Civic was super fast...even scared me a little!
In my opinion do the intake, header and exhaust because they're nice. My brother's DC4 has a generic CAI, XForce 4-2-1 header, Magnaflow cat and Fujisubo Power Getter - goes very nicely indeed. I've tried to convince him to do an LS/VTEC swap and not too long ago I had a spare complete JDM B16A head but he didn't want to spend the money on it.
I wouldn't bother with a B18C2 when for only $2000 more you can get a B18C7, which has a better gearbox and produces better power.
Anyway, any intake/exhaust modifications can be used on another B-series engine later if a swap is done.
LS vtec head swap ... much cheaper
all honda engines rev hard - they love it =)
Boost it! If your mate just wants a nice car, then there is no point in modding the engine. Play to its strengths which are its looks and sounds. As others have said if he is able to then he should do an engine swap or a turbo setup. Its a really under rated car in stock form imo.
I agree fully. I spoke to him and hes only gonna get a CAI, Extractors and Full exhaust, he isnt interested in performance that much so doesnt need a Vtec, just wants a nice Cruiser that sounds nice, Its a First car FFS gotta get experience and it will get little dints and shit anyway
I wanted to do LS/VTEC on my brother's DC4 but he wouldn't cough up the money :(
I/H/E should be fine though
He just got a New Cannon yesterday as the other one was very old. 2 Inch inlet, 6 inch Barrel and 4 inch tip, sounds quite nice now, very droney around the 4krpm zone.
He is playing on a CAI, Extractors and Full exhaust system soon. What is Best a 2 or 2 and Half full exhaust system?
Full engine swap or just vtec head? I wouldn't mind a full type r engine swap.Quote:
Originally Posted by dougie_504
Who wouldn't! ^^
:)
Edit: LS/VTEC = Head swap.
isnt the australian ones made in thai?Quote:
Originally Posted by Bludger
nope.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bulbasaur
I see. But yeah, been looking at prices, decisions decisions.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vvvtec
Go with a 2.25" it will still leave some torque for down low but will def improve the top end too, dont be expecting any amazing power. U will also need a decent high-flow cat for best gains.Quote:
Originally Posted by sneakygreek
Only some of the new Hondas (i believe the FD Civic and the V6 Accords) are made in Thailand.. moving the manufacturing to Thailand was pretty recent.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bulbasaur
2" would be too small for a 1.8, VTEC or not. 2.25" minimum, or go 60mm (technically 2.37" but normally referred to as 2.5") max. If he's planning head work later down the track then go 60mm. My brother uses generic CAI, XForce 4-2-1 header with 2" outlet, Magnaflow 60mm high-flow cat and Fujitsubo Power Getter 60mm cat-back. The car sounds awesome and feels a lot better under throttle :)Quote:
Originally Posted by sneakygreek
I think the 1998 Accords were the last made in Japan. Pity...Quote:
Originally Posted by Tegzieboi_BAR
So minimum of 60mm for B18? I'm planning on cams later on down the track in my B18c2... Want to make the right decisions now though.. Is your bros car droney/loud/annoying?Quote:
Originally Posted by dougie_504
If u look at all (well, majority) Japanese manufactured exhaust systems for B-Series Hondas they are 60mm. This gives you the best of both worlds... low niose and low-end driveability... as well as decent midrange and top end. However on a track car you will find that 70mm will be more efficiaent as the car spends most of the time in its upper RPM range and obviously the slightly larger diameter yields better results in that regard but will be more sluggish down low.
Ive been running 60mm Fujitsubo RM01-A on my (internally standard) B18CR and i absolutely adore it! Perfect exhaust for street! I do intend on going up to 70mm on the new project car i'll be building as it will be track orientated and will have mild head work.
Ive read lots of US forums where the guys claim to get best results out of their B-Series motors with 3" (76mm) exhausts but i dont think im quite willing to try that, would not be able to start the car up without waking the neighbourhood.
Just remember that the cat-back wont perform at its best if its not supported by a good set of headers and a high-flow cat.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vvvtec
B18 - no head work = 2.25"
If you're going to do head work go 60mm
The Fujitsubo Power Getter isnt droney or loud, but screams a fair deal when getting a squirt :)