B18C2 Issues - Again

Hi All,
I'm back again with some new funky issues I can't seem to solve by searching on these forums.

The issues started back on this thread: http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...0-B18C1-Issues


Current Issues:

• Car won't start if engine is warm
• Car cuts out/stalls while driving and accelerating
• Car Idles at 500 once warm - Too Low

The car has cut out three times in the past month while I've been accelerating - (Very dangerous on Main Roads).
The car won't start if it has been used and then turned off. I carry a can of "Start Ya Bastard" in my car now and use it 1-2 times daily.

I had it serviced by my normal mechanic - and hasn't been able to find any problems. I've also take it to a Honda specialist (Pulse Automotive) however they can't seem to ever get the car to play up like I've been experiencing.

To try and get this fixed I've done the following:

• Replaced Fuel Pump
• Cleaned IACV
• Checked Thermostat - OK
• Repalced Distributor
• 2x 100 point services

I've spent almost the car's value on trouble shooting and fixing and replacing suspected faulty parts, and I am about ready to give up.
I'm taking it back into to Pulse Automotive for another look over on Friday, but I'm not holding my breath.

Any Ideas?
Any one in Adelaide know a DECENT Honda troubleshooter?

There are plenty of "repairers" but none are able to ever experience the issues to trouble shoot them... Yet I experience these issues daily!!!

sounds alot like the problems i had when i got my chipped ECU - would cut out and stall at low revs after the car had been running for a while - sux if your in the middle of the highway and your scrambling to swap over ECU's just to get the car off to the side of the road =/

was the dizzy new or used ?
when its not starting check if you have fuel going thru and check if you got spark

is the car drinking the juice quickly ?

Thanks for the replies so far.

TheSaint - It's not an aftermarket ECU - stock as a rock - could this still be the issue?

dc3r-0636 - Dizzy was brand new, had to sell a Kidney for it... Excuse my noobness, where do I check to see if there is fuel going thru? I can see the throttle body moving when the accelerator is used. I'm adiment that when it's having problems starting, there is a lack of fuel (the new fuel pump fixed the issues for a week). It turns over nicely but just never seems to get enough fuel to start until I spray some Start Ya Bastard in the air intake hose, where the RAA showed me. Also, where do I check the spark - it turns over as per normal every time, the engine just doesn't start. I'm sure out of the two services I had they would have looked at the plugs, but I'll tell them to check it on Friday. It's not too guzzly - I had a look around on the Forums for normal mileage and I'm getting on par (350kms p/tank).

check your compression accross all 4 cylinders

your ecu could possibly not opening the injectors..
replace your fuel filter if not done already. release the banjo bolt on the top to depressurize the fuel pressure.
if the fuel filter is clogged it prbz isnt letting fuel pass, but highly unlikely

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZceAZgZBn9E - checking for spark

Main Relay?

Thanks dc2r-0636.

dougie - brilliant, I've done some googling and from what I can see this could be potentially causing the issues.

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainr...ion/index.html
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainr...mainrelay.html

Any idea on prices for new relays? (googling has told me around the $100 mark)

give this easy diy ago

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...diy+main+relay

Great, thanks all. I've printed these articles all out and brought them into the mechanic along with my car. The good news: They went to move it into their workshop.... AND IT WOULDN'T START - finally!

Will let you know how I go by the end of the day.

hate when the problem isnt there when you show them the car.
good that its not starting that its their so they can pin point it

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by SHARPiE

Great, thanks all. I've printed these articles all out and brought them into the mechanic along with my car. The good news: They went to move it into their workshop.... AND IT WOULDN'T START - finally!

Will let you know how I go by the end of the day.

---

main realy controls fuel pump/prime so I wouldnt be supprised

I'll laugh if it was the main relay. TBH if I saw your old thread I'd have suggested it first LOL. Rep me yooooo :D

OK, in short they have no idea what is causing the issues.
They've inspected and tested the main relay and this is all fine and the solder is as it should be.
Spark plugs - fine
Thermostat - fine

On monday they're going to isolate the fuel pump and give that a test... It was installed as "brand new" not too long ago, so I doubt this is the problem unless something is causing it to fail.

I have to sum up my options:
- keep throwing money at the car in hope that they find the fault (the car also has body damage which will be around $3000 inc. re-spray)
- possibly have a look at selling the car as complete but not working?

Thoughts?
Is there any thing else to have a look at?
Does anyone know a Teg guru in SA?

Spoke to the mechanic this morning.
It turns out the person I spoke to on Friday afternoon was the owner, and not the mechanic working on my car (he had left for the day).
The mechanic took the Main Relay into a specialist over the weekend and here's the good news:
"He has confirmed there is dry and cracked solder on the Relay".

dougie_504 - I've rep'd you :)


Now to wait for an update from the mechanic later in the day to see if it's fixed...

Nice!

I was thinking the ICM..

awesome thats a good outcome

• Car won't start if engine is warm
• Car cuts out/stalls while driving and accelerating
• Car Idles at 500 once warm - Too Low

1st two points are dead set giveaway main relay, don't know about low idle though.

The person they took the relay to has removed the bad solder from the faulty terminals and has re-soldered it back up.
They are about to start testing.

The news continues to get better!
Mechanic has now installed the main relay, they've tested it cold start and warm start, and all is working as it should.

I'll be the judge of that :)

Thank you all, I'll report back.

brilliant :)

Update: car seems to be running a lot smoother. The car starts when it's warm, but the idling on warm start is around 700-800, which is bearable. Looks good. Thanks again!

700-800 is fine, isn't it?

Yeh it says idle should be 750 +/- 50 on the owners manuel

Awesome - 2 days and no issues, I think I'm ready to call this one busted!
Thanks again.

Anytime dude

How much did this all cost you?

The recent fix, or the total troubleshooting?

Trouble shooting.

Total has been like $1500 since I first noticed the issue - but not all of this cost was related to the issues I had.
I took it in to 2 different mechanics for major services ($300 each)
And have the following new parts:
- Fuel Pump
- Dizzy
- Clutch Slave Cylinder (unrelated)

Excellent!