HARDRACE Rear Camber Kit Install on EM1

Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!

This is my first DIY, so there is always room on improvement :) C&C would be great.

Aim: To Install "HardRace" rear camber kit into a 99-00 Civic EM1, This will also be same as if you were to install on "EG, DC2"

Required:

- HardRace, or other Camber Kit, Supplied by Yonas ( JDM YARD)
- Breaker Bar + extension
- Ratchet
- 14 mill Socket
- 2x Car Jack
- Gloves, because your hands can get pretty dirty !
- WD40

http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/9162/img0664gh.jpg

Making sure the camber kit is for your series car

http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/6446/img0666nh.jpg

Steps to install

We will start off by jacking the vehicle up, and taking the wheel off the car, ( im quite sure every ones knows how to take a wheel off :P), with my wheel i like to put it under the side skirt, just incase for some reason the jack was to fail the car would slowly fall on the wheel.



http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/7899/img0668m.jpg

Step 2 : once we have taken the wheel off the Rear camber arm is now exposed to us and we can start working on it, there are only three bolts we have to worry about, nothing els!

http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/986...q21111copy.png

Step 3 - To make the process alot easier i use a regular jack with you can find in your boot, if not there very easy to source, put it directly under the rear, Lower control arm, and slowly wind it up, The reason why you do this is to ensure that we will not be forcing anything to fit.

http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/6779/img0671u.jpg

Step 4 - If the Camber arms have never been changed before, then the best thing to do is use some WD40 just to give it that little bit of lubrication.

http://img851.imageshack.us/img851/4579/img0674fv.jpg

Step 5 - Once you have done "Step 4" then grab your breaker bar + 14mill Socket, and slowly undo the bolt until it becomes easier to undo,

http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/5754/img0675ws.jpg

Step 6 - Do the same as "Step 5" to the two rear bolts.

http://img809.imageshack.us/img809/609/img0676eo.jpg

This is just a comparison photo from the old to the new.

http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/2016/img0678jg.jpg

Step 7 - The new camber arm is about 10 mill shorter then stock so when installing make sure to not screw the to back bolts in fully, so we can allow for some movement with the new one.

Once the new camber arm has lined up, then you man tighten the bolts
in the example photo below you and see it has perfectly lined up.

http://img846.imageshack.us/img846/6439/img0681te.jpg

Step 8 - Once you have tightened the bolts, put the wheel back on and lower the car back onto the ground.

http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/4548/img0684ff.jpg

Step 9 - Once you have lowerd the car back onto the ground, some people tend to neglect this step, jack the car but up take the wheel off again and get your breaker bar and tighten it for the last time.

Why we do this is because there may have been a slight change in the camber arm position, so this will insure that the bushes will last longer.

http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/8742/img0686sc.jpg

Step 10 - Your done ! but u still gotta do the other side.. :D

Other Comments

*** REMEMBER - Running to much negative camber will result in uneven Tyre wear, Rubbing against springs, shocks etc.. Not a good idea for your safety and your wallet.. ***

NOTE : My wheels had slight natural camber from when the car was lowerd.
After taking the "After" shot i have adjusted my camber.

Any Question's, im more than happy to answere.

BEFORE

http://img546.imageshack.us/img546/6986/img0665dv.jpg

AFTER

http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/2567/img0685ok.jpg

Thanks for viewing and hope it helps you guys out there.
Regards Alex

Great DIY mate!

Nicely done and can tell the different between before and after.

+1 rep...

Very nice mate, would this be the same process to do this even in a DC5? Curiously, how do you make the adjustments in camber :|

epic write up bro :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by WATAJK

Very nice mate, would this be the same process to do this even in a DC5? Curiously, how do you make the adjustments in camber :|

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Thanks buddy, the process on the DC5 im not quite sure about, never done a DC5 before i can get back to you on it, but adjusting the camber is done like this, in the picture below you will fine i have circled two area's a bolt and a nut, first off we undo the bolt to the desired location, as we are undoing the bolt the nut will follow, once it is at the position your after, you will have have to twirl the nut down and tighten it.

Remember if you are doing lets say a 10 mill adjustment make sure you do 5 mill on both side's so it can even out the load on the camber arm, adjusting the other side is exactly the same.

Thanks for your comment :)

http://img814.imageshack.us/img814/7015/img0637copy.png

Quote:

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Originally Posted by louie

epic write up bro :D

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Thank you :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Foxx

Great DIY mate!

Nicely done and can tell the different between before and after.

+1 rep...

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Thank you, and thanks for your comment also the rep point, yer it does make a huge difference !

Good stuff mate. Recently installed an adjustable camber kit in a Euro which had 2 arms instead of one like yours. Had to get a wheel alignment after just to be safe.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Banana_hammock

Good stuff mate. Recently installed an adjustable camber kit in a Euro which had 2 arms instead of one like yours. Had to get a wheel alignment after just to be safe.

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Nice, post up a tutorial :) my brother got a Euro, we installed it but others may not know how to install, yer getting that wheel alignment was a good idea, for the front its a need because it throws it off badly

But thanks for the comment buddy :)

Getting my Hardrace camber kit soon.......fronts an rears

How do u exactly adjust the camber arm itself? Im not gonna do it myself, gonna get a wheel shop to do it, but curious to know how its done :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AlexK

Thanks buddy, the process on the DC5 im not quite sure about, never done a DC5 before i can get back to you on it, but adjusting the camber is done like this, in the picture below you will fine i have circled two area's a bolt and a nut, first off we undo the bolt to the desired location, as we are undoing the bolt the nut will follow, once it is at the position your after, you will have have to twirl the nut down and tighten it.

Remember if you are doing lets say a 10 mill adjustment make sure you do 5 mill on both side's so it can even out the load on the camber arm, adjusting the other side is exactly the same.

Thanks for your comment :)

http://img814.imageshack.us/img814/7015/img0637copy.png




Thank you :)

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by mugen_ctr

Getting my Hardrace camber kit soon.......fronts an rears

How do u exactly adjust the camber arm itself? Im not gonna do it myself, gonna get a wheel shop to do it, but curious to know how its done :)

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^^ thats how lol, yer i have the fronts too but cbf making diy for it atm, + my cars in the panel shop lol

will a place like bob jane adjust them to a desired spec for you when you go in to get a wheel alignment?

This DIY applies for most 90's hondas and some earlier ones too

erm so after dowsing the shit out of all the bolts with penetrating fluid i used a breaker bar on the bolt connecting the arm to the chassis and it pretty much stripped it straight away. there *might* be a slight chance that an impact gun could grab on to the remnants of the bolt head, but i'm not confident. any ideas?

are you using single hex or double hex socket?

if you are using double socket that's your first problem.

if it hasn't rounded off yet try using 9/16 mm single hex socket tap it on with hammer and use a breaker bar and undo it.

if it hasn't rounded off yet try using 14 mm single hex socket tap it on with hammer and use a breaker bar and undo it.

if it hasn't rounded off yet try using 1/2 mm single hex socket tap it on with hammer and use a breaker bar and undo it. ( if you are using 1/2 you have gone way beyond it and would probably best using a chisel and hammer ).

also if you have a cheap set of spanners you are best off trying to use them as the cheaper sets a usually out of accuracy which will usually fit over well! hope that helps!

I was using a double hex, found one of my dad's single hex ones from an old expensive toolkit - it seems to fit way better. It is rounded when using the double hex, but the single hex seems to fit way better and gets a lot more purchase, it doesn't feel like it's going to strip when I put pressure on it. Just needs some more penetrating oil and to sit overnight I think. The single hex socket managed to undo one of the other ones that was seized but not stripped - works way better than the double hex ones!! Thanks a lot for your help!

all good, just remember single hex use single hex socket, double use double, fundamentals, only use double hex when you're stuck! wd40 helps great, but it only needs to penetrate for a few minutes not hours or days!

the wd40 will make its way through the threads, if you know how wd40 works you will know what i mean,,


hope that helps,

ok now im completely fcked. its nearly stripped using the single hex socket, nearly broke my arms in the process. and to make it even worse, the other bolt next to it which i thought i managed to get out (i broke the seal on it) isnt actually coming out of the hole, its just endlessly spinning. it goes half a turn, gets a little tighter, then looser, but never actually proceeds to come out. this goes for trying to do it up as well. help :( wish i never even started this..

if its getting tight then looser, tight then looser, chances are whoever installed or mucked around it before you did might of stripped the bolt putting it in!

if you can get a pair pliers on the bolt apply force and at the same time try undoing the bolt, this way it sort of forces its way out!

Had to get the next door neighbour in he used to be a panel beater we cut a small hole in the boot floor where the encapsulated nut is welded to the chassis, sure enough I managed to use enough force to break the weld on the frame so we are going to get an impact gun and hold on to the nut with a spanner but it also seems to be cross threaded. as for the one with the stripped head the neighbour said he can weld a socket to the bolt head and use an impact gun or big breaker bar

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rubixcube

Had to get the next door neighbour in he used to be a panel beater we cut a small hole in the boot floor where the encapsulated nut is welded to the chassis, sure enough I managed to use enough force to break the weld on the frame so we are going to get an impact gun and hold on to the nut with a spanner but it also seems to be cross threaded. as for the one with the stripped head the neighbour said he can weld a socket to the bolt head and use an impact gun or big breaker bar

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yer i been raeding my thread and seeing this.. okay well u need go out and get urself these rachet/braker bar sockets, what they have is little teeth inside them which lock on the bolt, and allow you to undo them no matter how bad the damage is, if u got a sydney tools near u then they got em and there also a great help, but just chill out, cos freaking out about it only make things worse trust me lol let me know how u go :)

Well thanks for all the advice guys, i got my neighbor over to help he was a panelbeater for 40 years so he knew exactly what i was talking about and how to approach fixing it, we have tried everything including a professional grade impact gun with grabtite fluid which didn't work so we have cut 2 small holes in the boot floor, and also taken out the fuel tank, so we can get a blowtorch in there and heat the shit out of it. Then going to use a welder and resecure the nut I managed to break the weld on. Fingers crossed!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rubixcube

Well thanks for all the advice guys, i got my neighbor over to help he was a panelbeater for 40 years so he knew exactly what i was talking about and how to approach fixing it, we have tried everything including a professional grade impact gun with grabtite fluid which didn't work so we have cut 2 small holes in the boot floor, and also taken out the fuel tank, so we can get a blowtorch in there and heat the shit out of it. Then going to use a welder and resecure the nut I managed to break the weld on. Fingers crossed!!

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are u trying to get a rounded off nut off ?? because if u are...lol... your going to a bit to much trouble lol

more than just simple ruined bolts, both bolts are seized in there the worst i have ever seen in my life, and since i broke the welds on the encapsulated nut behind one of them, which the bolt also seems to be cross threaded, we didnt have much choice but to go to extra trouble lol.