RSP Manifold on 05' CL9 Euro - Advice?

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10-08-2011, 10:40 AM
beaugus

RSP Manifold on 05' CL9 Euro - Advice?

Hey there OzHonda members, its been literally ages since I've visited on a more frequent basis awesome to see the place hasn't changed greatly on me :P

Just had a question for some Euro CL9 owners who have performed an intake manifold swap on the CL9, I've owned my FN2 Type-R since 08 and have recently finished with all the bolt-ons for it including swapping the manifold over for an RRC which has left me with the old RSP manifold.

I've seen one or two members speak about bolting this manifold on the Euro in older posts or I think it was a build thread can't remember - either way, I was just wondering if anybody knew if it was a direct fit or not.

I've also got an FN2 throttle body to go along with it as well since I upgraded to a Mugen TB on the FN2 so not sure if this can be used on the CL9 as well. By looking at it the RBB manifold has an idle air port or sorts on it?

Anyway if anyone knows of any issues prior to me going through the effort of swapping them over I'm all ears!
10-08-2011, 02:34 PM
shmivic

As far as i know, its a pretty much straight bolt up although you have to add a small vacuum port <------ 98% on that

Looses power and torque from idle to 6000rpm, then you gain around 3whp until redline.

Idle air ports need to be welded and the machined to fit the FN t.b to RBB manifold.
10-08-2011, 06:46 PM
wuism

I have rsp on my euro.... Direct bolt on and even the tb is not an issue... I am using tb from Acura TL and I know another fn2 owner using the same tb.... Shouldnt have idle air as the idle is controlled by the dbw... Only cable tb have this port....
10-08-2011, 11:18 PM
beaugus

Quote:

Originally Posted by wuism

I have rsp on my euro.... Direct bolt on and even the tb is not an issue... I am using tb from Acura TL and I know another fn2 owner using the same tb.... Shouldnt have idle air as the idle is controlled by the dbw... Only cable tb have this port....

Awesome thanks for confirming that man I really appreciate it :), last question - did you have any trouble with cruise control or anything like that?

About to organise a Hondata manifold gasket this week before I go through with the swap now that I know it all fits up but just thought I'd ask if theres any trouble with cruise or not. No check engine lights? stuff like that.
10-08-2011, 11:33 PM
Fredoops

Or a p2r, they all work the same from what I've heard
10-08-2011, 11:36 PM
beaugus

Forgot about them :P probably easier to get hold of a P2R set than Hondata too thanks man
10-08-2011, 11:40 PM
wuism

Umm. Not sure about cruise... I already lost that before I installed the manifold. Just make sure u put all the vacuum hoses in the right spot....
10-08-2011, 11:46 PM
Fredoops

You this is an interesting thread... It reminded me of this I read a while back:

http://www.superstreetonline.com/tec...out/index.html
11-08-2011, 12:46 PM
bennjamin

Please don't bother

Even hi power worked applications in lighter cars should have the manifold / tb as a last resort to make power. Besides , replacing these means a retune is needed to benefit at all.
Just putting one on , with shift power up but your torque will suffer. This looks good on the dyno but in the real world your car is slower everywhere.
11-08-2011, 01:23 PM
wuism

mate, aren't you assuming too much?

maybe he has a means of tuning?

maybe his car will be track only and top end power is needed?

dont believe the intake manifold is the last resort to make power... its the whole combination of cams, bottom end, header etc....
put on big cams, but intake manifold doesnt flow will not make power,
having a very good flowing intake manifold but having mild cams and restrictive cylinder head stopping air flow will not make power either....
11-08-2011, 05:53 PM
bennjamin

Quote:

Originally Posted by wuism

mate, aren't you assuming too much?

maybe he has a means of tuning?

maybe his car will be track only and top end power is needed?

dont believe the intake manifold is the last resort to make power... its the whole combination of cams, bottom end, header etc....
put on big cams, but intake manifold doesnt flow will not make power,
having a very good flowing intake manifold but having mild cams and restrictive cylinder head stopping air flow will not make power either....

Mate , he drives a euro. There is no valid way of tuning - unless JTUNE is full in operation (last i heard no). Highly unlikely he is turning this into a track car. No assumptions here just observations of initial post.

Can you show me a euro CL9 with cams or big work that has an alternative intake manifold too - and that is properly tuned ?

You just summed up what I am saying in your last sentance. In this situation (OP , euro) - its a waste of time putting a different intake manifold on for 3 whp and a whomp less midrange.
11-08-2011, 06:08 PM
wuism

k-tuned dual harness with k-pro? the dual harness from Driven singapore which i'm using with k-pro?

here is mods of my car...
http://forum.clubitr.com.au/showthread.php?t=9853

heres my power with RSP manifold that is properly tuned somewhere in that thread.
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...O-in-my-06-CL9!!
11-08-2011, 09:03 PM
beaugus

Hey guys don't hassle yourselves over my post regarding the manifold and throttle body its not worth getting into a bitch fight over it really just thought I'd ask those who have gone through the effort of swapping there's over for any advice and looks like I got pretty sound advice already so I'm appreciative of everyone's opinions :)

I've actually just finished up building/tuning my FN2 at around 240hp so thats my street/weekender car and I've only just bought my Euro literally last week and based on the success of building the FN2 the Euro is similar in some areas that I know can be worked with.

Basically I'm after further improving the Euro's drivability / low-mid range purely to live with on a daily basis and not much more - I'm probably better off investing the money into handling rather than the full on bolt-on performance since I've got that with the FN2 anyway.

I really appreciated everyone's input but looks like the RSP manifold is not worth the effort especially if its proven to reduce the low end.
11-08-2011, 09:59 PM
bennjamin

Quote:

Originally Posted by beaugus

Hey guys don't hassle yourselves over my post regarding the manifold and throttle body its not worth getting into a bitch fight over it really just thought I'd ask those who have gone through the effort of swapping there's over for any advice and looks like I got pretty sound advice already so I'm appreciative of everyone's opinions :)

I've actually just finished up building/tuning my FN2 at around 240hp so thats my street/weekender car and I've only just bought my Euro literally last week and based on the success of building the FN2 the Euro is similar in some areas that I know can be worked with.

Basically I'm after further improving the Euro's drivability / low-mid range purely to live with on a daily basis and not much more - I'm probably better off investing the money into handling rather than the full on bolt-on performance since I've got that with the FN2 anyway.

I really appreciated everyone's input but looks like the RSP manifold is not worth the effort especially if its proven to reduce the low end.

The only thing i can think of that can help with feel and torque is perhaps a type R gearbox out of a EP3 or DC5R for example - dont quote me but it should be almost a bolt on and instant improvement with shorter gearing and LSD.
No power mods are worthwhile with your car. Too heavy and lack of support sorry.
11-08-2011, 11:19 PM
Fredoops

If you've already done I/H/E on the car.. The only thing can think of is to reduce engine load at lower rpm's.. Something like a lightened pulley set. Or lighter wheels/tyres maybe.
12-08-2011, 06:56 PM
tony1234

Do the intake and headers that's about it.Don't bother with anything else.
12-08-2011, 08:13 PM
beaugus

Alright based on everyone's input I think I may put the RSP manifold idea on hold till another time, who knows maybe more better engine management may come about (unlikely but hey who knows)

Overall I think I'll go with:

Toda Exhaust Manifold, may source a higher flowing cat as well
Either Toda or Fujitsubo Cat-Back
Mugen Intake (have one of these on order at the moment)
Hondata Reflash by Jtune (if they still exist?)

Not sure what sort of power and torque increase that would yield, maybe 20-25hp absolute max?

Again I'm not after torque steering wheel spinning power just looking to get a less lethargic, slightly more responsive drive and maybe be able to get better pull from 3rd gear around town etc.
12-08-2011, 09:00 PM
mocchi

Quote:

Originally Posted by beaugus

Alright based on everyone's input I think I may put the RSP manifold idea on hold till another time, who knows maybe more better engine management may come about (unlikely but hey who knows)

Overall I think I'll go with:

Toda Exhaust Manifold, may source a higher flowing cat as well
Either Toda or Fujitsubo Cat-Back
Mugen Intake (have one of these on order at the moment)
Hondata Reflash by Jtune (if they still exist?)

Not sure what sort of power and torque increase that would yield, maybe 20-25hp absolute max?

Again I'm not after torque steering wheel spinning power just looking to get a less lethargic, slightly more responsive drive and maybe be able to get better pull from 3rd gear around town etc.

where would you buy rsp manifold anyway?
i agree with gearbox change.
12-08-2011, 09:51 PM
beaugus

Quote:

Originally Posted by mocchi

where would you buy rsp manifold anyway?
i agree with gearbox change.

I have the RSP manifold spare left over after finishing building my FN2 project as I upgraded to an RRC on that a while ago so ever since I've just had it boxed away and thought it could be used on the CL9.