D16Y7 to Y8 complete swap - help required

Hey guys, need some help...Tried searching the sticky's but couldn't find what I was looking for. 'ecuman' has helped me out a lot so far regarding the immobiliser bypass, but I'm now stuck...details below:

Car is a 99 civic coupe ls, originally running a Y7, with OBD2B ecu & loom.

Donor Y8 engine, loom & ecu came from a 97/98 sri (I believe). Loom & ecu are OBD2A.

The Y8 engine & 2A loom are both fitted, however...Part of the 2B loom seems to be incorporated with the interior loom, it also seems to control the fuel pump relay, so I'm left with this:

http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/...EDD74-orig.jpg

...an extra ecu plug and a car that wont start. Thought originally it was the immobiliser in the 2A ecu, which has since been bypassed, but still no sign of life from the fuel pump (which I now know is down to the loom).

What are my options?

-Take it all out and just do a mini-me swap?
-Convert it all to obd1?
-Is it possible to convert 2B to 2A?
-How do I incorporate the extra ecu plug?
-What loom/ecu combo do I need to run to keep the Y8 and run vtec?
-Other...lol

Obviously I'm looking for the least time/money consuming option but either way I need to get back on the road, just don't know what to do next...

Any help or input would e greatly appreciated guys!
Thanks,
Nick

Hi Nick

I will stop helping you via PM and add info here as it may help someone else one day

first of all I was not aware your old ECU was OBDIIB, this is infact the reason for that lonely ECU A connector on the cabin loom.

- you should be able to plug your ECU into the 3 connectors that come from the engine loom ( right 3 ECU Connectors ).
- you can ingnore the lonely ECU A connector. If it bothers you that it is there, then you can cut it off and post it to me :)
- all you have to do is get the wiring right at the green connector. You have to figure out what goes where and move wires across to make it all match up. I have no data for you to post up to help you, but I can figure it out from your old engine loom ( OBDIIb ) and an OBDIIa engine loom I think I have. You dont have to cut any wires but simply remove them from the connector and put them in the correct place.

the above would be your cheapest and quickest option.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ECU-MAN

Hi Nick

I will stop helping you via PM and add info here as it may help someone else one day

first of all I was not aware your old ECU was OBDIIB, this is infact the reason for that lonely ECU A connector on the cabin loom.

- you should be able to plug your ECU into the 3 connectors that come from the engine loom ( right 3 ECU Connectors ).
- you can ingnore the lonely ECU A connector. If it bothers you that it is there, then you can cut it off and post it to me :)
- all you have to do is get the wiring right at the green connector. You have to figure out what goes where and move wires across to make it all match up. I have no data for you to post up to help you, but I can figure it out from your old engine loom ( OBDIIb ) and an OBDIIa engine loom I think I have. You dont have to cut any wires but simply remove them from the connector and put them in the correct place.

the above would be your cheapest and quickest option.

---

Excellent John thanks very much for that! So I just need to find the wiring diagrams for each of the green connectors and pair them up? That's a relief!

Thanks!
Nick

Nick/John,

I'm from the UK and am currently at the same situation that you were on the post above. I have a Civic Coupe which had the D16Y7 engine in and i have put the D16Y8 engine and loom in. I have the ECU which matches the engine and loom. I have turned the ignition and lights come on (no immobiliser or engine warning light) and the fuel pump doesnt prime. I presume this is because of the same problem as you were having. Did you manage to resolve? i have looked and there appears to be about 4/5 wires that dont match up. Are these not required? Any help welcome.....

(sorry this is my first post, i was on google and it brought me to this fantastic forum)

Steve

Hi Steve

welcome to OzHonda

well the same advice then applies to you as well. You would have to identify what the exsisting wires do on the green cabin connector then the green engine connector and match the wires up.

you will have an immo missmatch and you will not be able to program it up since they are different immo generations. You will have to disable then immo in you ECU, you can find how to do this in a DIY I made here. search the DIY section.




- you should be able to plug your ECU into the 3 connectors that come from the engine loom ( right 3 ECU Connectors ).
- you can ingnore the lonely ECU A connector. If it bothers you that it is there, then you can cut it off and post it to me :)
- all you have to do is get the wiring right at the green connector. You have to figure out what goes where and move wires across to make it all match up. I have no data for you to post up to help you, but I can figure it out from your old engine loom ( OBDIIb ) and an OBDIIa engine loom I think I have. You dont have to cut any wires but simply remove them from the connector and put them in the correct place.

Thanks John.

The problem i'm having is that i cant find any Data on the Main Dash loom. The colours on that are completly different to the engine harness. I have found loads of information on the engine loom (see attached) the engine is a D16Y8 from a 1997 civic coupe and the car is a 2000 civic coupe which was running a D16y7. Also attached is the colours i have. Any ideas which wires mate up with the engine loom?

on the hand drawn sketch the top image is what the engine loom has and the bottom one is the one to the dash loom...

just noticed that the attachments didnt work. I'll try again....

Cant do that until tom when im in the office. What i need to know what on the second page what each wire actually does ('99-00 model)... for example 21 is RED/YEL (PGM-FI) -what does that actually control? I thought it was the starter signal switch (as per the hand sketch above) but i cant find out what they are. Any ideas John?

(PLEASSSSSE)

ill check my data for the green connector on a OBDIIa looom and you may be able to use that to marry everything up.

Give me some time to check it all out

thanks for postaing the info you have


can you confirm the "Green dash loom" diagram is pin view or wire side view of the connector ?

Iv had a look at my P2K Loom Data and can confirm your " Exactly as Car " diagram is correct.

the unknown is what your " Green Dash Loom" info is. I have an OBDIIb engine loom, this weekend I will find it and perform a continuity test on the green connector to identify the wires on the Green connector to the rest of the loom to help identify the pins. This should work. Unfortuanatly I cant do it any sooner. If you in a big rush to sort it out, perhaps you can do the same to your OBDIIb engine loom and post the info here.

Hi John,

thanks for getting back to me...

its pin view. I have found this in an attempt to find out what the PGM-FI mean: http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/Ho...001943_inj.pdf

but not sure if that right. I seem to have a conflict with the VSS and the STS. Well as loads of others! :( from what i can see pins 1-5 and 11-17 do nothing on the manual Y6 c131 connector. these are mainly for Auto trans and the engine imobb.

If i dont do the immob ecu mod as you show (thanks BTW) in the DIY section will the car not start at all? is that something i need to do first?

sorry for all the questions!

the attached d16y6 is exactly what is on the dash (main) loom Attachment 21124

When ever you get chance John. Everything you have done so far is great. I really appreciate your help!!!

until you bypass the immo in the ECU the ECU will not allow the engine to start. The ECU will kill the Injector pulse.

The info you have posted doesnt help me come up with an exact idea of what you have to do ( at a quick glance ), however with checking out the OBDIIb loom I can use this information to confirm my findings for you.

Ok thanks, Thats the first port of call....

From what i can see i need to find out what the plug No.s on the dash loom (8,9,10,19,20,21,22) actually do. I know what they do the engine loom side.

yes thats correct.

I can use the OBDIIb engien loom that mates to the connector your talking about to find out that information.

Great thanks John, I look forward to hearing from you...

I've just noticed that i said D16y6. For clarification i have:

D16Y8 engine, OBD2A engine loom and ECU (37820-P2P-G01)from a 1997 civic coupe going to - 2000 civic coupe m/t (car was D16y7 OBD2B)

i'll do the ECU immob with your DIY guide this evening.

Cheers (i'll need repay you for all this at some point!!)

Hi John,

I've just tried to send you a PM but not sure if it worked or not. Did you manage to have look this weekend?

thanks

Hi Steve ( and anyone else who plans on using this data )

I have used an EK9 Engine loom and an EK1 cabin loom to obtain this data, I don't see why it would not work on any other looms from different markets however use this information at your own risk. Do not hold me or OzHonda.com responsible if you damage anything. Double check your wiring and confirm my findings before using them.



Original OBDIIb Green cabin connector


http://b16a2.kicks-ass.net/tech/loom..._Connector.jpg



OBDIIb Cabin loom mod to match OBDIIa engine harness

http://b16a2.kicks-ass.net/tech/loom...ine%20_oom.jpg

the above post has yet to be tested and confirmed accurate

John, wow, what can i say? your amazing! did eveything as you said above (apart from C17 went to ecu 31 rather then 32 as there wasnt a 32). started and ran fine! only a few issues:

speedo doesnt work (possible sensor which has had it)
RPM no longer works. now im not sure if this is because im still running the Y7 dizzy (to change tomorrow). OR if i need to plug a wire in? from what i can see the old ECU has an engine speed pulse which was ecu A19. Now the new ecu doesnt appear to have an engine speed pulse. Do you have and ideas?

can i just say that the info above you posted was amazing and i owe you! (pm me your paypal add please)

Hi Steve

did you join C18 to ECU OBDIIa C18 ? if so you need a scope or multi meter that can measure Hz. with the front wheel raised off the ground and when you slowly drive the car ( 25km/h ) you should see a signal at C18 Green connector and at ECU OBDIIa C18 of the ECU. I will update my pics above as C18 says to join to C23 OBDIIb which is incorrect.

re the tacho, to get the Tacho to work you must join OBDIIb ECU A19 to OBDIIa ECU A20

no need to send any payment dude, however old ECU's are always welcome :)

Post #20 updated

Evening John,

to be honest i think its a faulty speed sensor, i already have blu/wht to blu/wht which is the speed sensor. I have changed the Tacho so that now works.

Only issue i have now is i have no revers lights. I think this is down to the fact i dont have a yellow on the C131 coming from the car. I do have two green/blk. yet on the C131 coming off the engine loom i have one yellow and one grn/blk. any ideas on this?

oh i forgot. when i go above 2.5k the engine warning light comes on. I will look into this as i have a diagnostics cable so should be able to investigate that....

send me your address and i'll post the old ECU if you want it?

to start with manually bridge the two pins on the connector for the revers light switch at the gearbox, check to see if they come on, if they do not, then do the same on the green connector and recheck.

let me know what ECU Codes you get.

an EU ECU would be quite interesting to play with, Ill PM you