few Civic '97 questions... thanks

hey,

i'm looking at buying some frontz soon for a '97 civic.

i was wondering what size splitz can i fit in the current holes of a '97 civic, without having to do any cutting??

while we're on the topic of front speakers, can anyone tell him, give me instructions on how to remove the front door panels.
where are the screws located? and where should i run the RCA and power cables from my headunit to my amp?

i have an alpine 9807 headunit and wanted to know which "after-market harness" do i buy to connect the factory stock harness to the harness of the alpine unit, without having to cut any wires, or soldering them.

can anyone tell me also what size sub would fit nicely into the boot of a civic? i'm looking at either a 10' or 12' sub. what box size should i consider?

thanks alot for any help. i know there are alot of questions, i just don't want to buy my civic and have no idea on how to install or where to put any of the stuff

Sedan or hatch?

If its a sedan, you can easily fit a 12" dependinng on the box (probably goes for a hatch also).

I have 93 civic and fit 6" mids in the doors.

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Originally Posted by wynode

Sedan or hatch?

If its a sedan, you can easily fit a 12" dependinng on the box (probably goes for a hatch also).

I have 93 civic and fit 6" mids in the doors.

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6" ay, i would be looking at 6 1/2 inch frontz.
i have been recommended hertz esk 165's
but ppl recommended that i go to a car audio place and have a listen for myself. so i'm going to go and have a listen somewhere and try to figure out which one suits me best.
can anyone recommend certain brands, or size's i should look at that would suit the civic's body?
thanks

Open it up and have a look/take out the stock speakers. Try the lifestyle store in Parramatta/Baulkham hills. There Boston splits are top class.

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Originally Posted by wynode

Open it up and have a look/take out the stock speakers. Try the lifestyle store in Parramatta/Baulkham hills. There Boston splits are top class.

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well the thing is that i have already got my headunit, and amp.

next i will be purchasing speakers/sub within the next few months, as well as wires, and sound deadening.

so i want to get my ENTIRE system ready, so once i purchase the civic, i can pop everything in the day after getting it.

for a sound quality based system, what frontz would you sugguest getting, with 62.5wrms per channel?

thanks

Well if you are going to do it all yourself, take some time figure out how things come off (eg door covers) that way you won't rush things and break anything.

THe hardest part is mounting the amp itself and making it sit nice and straight. The rest of it (wiring) is pretty easy. All you do is take out the door panels, and interior trim and guide to the amp.

The best place to ground the amp is at the seat belt anchor.

Also, you might have a little trouble feeding the wiring from the inside of the car to the splits in the front doors.

Before you get all your equipment, take the car apart and have a dry run, so you can get straight into it when you get everything.

Gluck!

Make sure that when you install the amp, you run the power cable down the opposite side to the RCA's. Otherwise you will get a buzzing sound when the stereo is on.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wynode

Well if you are going to do it all yourself, take some time figure out how things come off (eg door covers) that way you won't rush things and break anything.

THe hardest part is mounting the amp itself and making it sit nice and straight. The rest of it (wiring) is pretty easy. All you do is take out the door panels, and interior trim and guide to the amp.

The best place to ground the amp is at the seat belt anchor.

Also, you might have a little trouble feeding the wiring from the inside of the car to the splits in the front doors.

Before you get all your equipment, take the car apart and have a dry run, so you can get straight into it when you get everything.

Gluck!

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thanks for info. i have already done ALOT of research. and i found a place, that showed me how to pull the dash off to put the headunit in.

but as for the door panels i haven't found any info yet. i don't think it should be tooo hard, cause in my ford, there are little screw covers over the screws.

thanks for telling me where to run the ground for my amp. everyone has just told me to run near the spare tyre.

anyway, where/how do you guys run your wiring from your splitz in the doors? cause i'm going to place splitz in the door. but just curious where to place the wires when it comes to installation. thanks

ok so you are wondering how to get the wires from the under your dash to inside your door? If so there should be a gromit between the door and chassis. Tape your speaker wires to a coat hanger or piece of wire and simply bend/ flex the wire to feed though to the speaker position.

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Originally Posted by Cino

ok so you are wondering how to get the wires from the under your dash to inside your door? If so there should be a gromit between the door and chassis. Tape your speaker wires to a coat hanger or piece of wire and simply bend/ flex the wire to feed though to the speaker position.

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is there any other way?
cause i will be installing a headunit, which i know i have to remove the entire dash.
as for the door panels. i don't know how to remove them, but will have to, since i need to fit my 6' inchs in there

That is the best way. If you find it hard to feed the wires through the grommit which leads into the door, then just squeeze the wire between the grommit and the car body and then run it into the door.

I taped mine up with electrical tape to protect it.

To get the door off, on my EG there were basically 2 screws. One behind the door handle, and one through the coin pocket thingy. After that, there are clips which hold it in place so you can just pop it off.

PS: Remember you will have to take the plastic door handle off which connects to the door open/close mechanism.

Hope that helps.

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Originally Posted by wynode

That is the best way. If you find it hard to feed the wires through the grommit which leads into the door, then just squeeze the wire between the grommit and the car body and then run it into the door.

I taped mine up with electrical tape to protect it.

To get the door off, on my EG there were basically 2 screws. One behind the door handle, and one through the coin pocket thingy. After that, there are clips which hold it in place so you can just pop it off.

PS: Remember you will have to take the plastic door handle off which connects to the door open/close mechanism.

Hope that helps.

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thanks mate.
is it difficult to re-attach the door open/close mechanism?
is it possible to stuff it up so that i won't be able to open the door? lol

LOL do it with the door open :)

Its a small piece of plastic so it is possible to break it. Just be patient and carefull.

The small piece of metal (which actuates the lock) snaps into a piece of plastic, you just have to snap it off (no, don't snap the plastic!).

All this is on an EG. EK should be very similar. Just take your time and go through it.

You will also have to take the widow winder off, unless its electric. To get the winder off, there will be a clip in between the winder and the trim. Simply get a piece of wire bend the tip back with pliers and hook it around the clip and reef it out, but dont lose the clip.

I would recomend that you feed the wires through the gromit, coz you dont want the speaker wire to fray if it gets caught, even if you insulate it with tape there is always a risk of the wire touching an earth and shorting out your system

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cino

You will also have to take the widow winder off, unless its electric. To get the winder off, there will be a clip in between the winder and the trim. Simply get a piece of wire bend the tip back with pliers and hook it around the clip and reef it out, but dont lose the clip.

I would recomend that you feed the wires through the gromit, coz you dont want the speaker wire to fray if it gets caught, even if you insulate it with tape there is always a risk of the wire touching an earth and shorting out your system

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thanks wynode

as for the feeding the wire through the grommet.
do you guys mean to attach the NEW speaker wire, to the wires that are inside the wiring loom, which leads from the door to the dash board side.

like when you open the door you can see it?????

Lets go back a step for the speakers. Are they going to be running off a head unit or amp?

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Originally Posted by Cino

Lets go back a step for the speakers. Are they going to be running off a head unit or amp?

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front speakers: i will install 2 splitz and run off amp
rear speakers: run the stock speakers on the headunit

Ok so you need to run wires into the doors from the crossover. So depending on where abouts you mount the crossover run the wires into the gromit and connect to the speakers.

To install a whole system like this you may need to do the following:
strip the whole car, that means seats and the side of the carpets and door trims and stuff. you might also wanna grab a few friends to help you. and you need a weekend. the wires (power and rca's etc) run under the carpet on either side of the car, depending where your battery is and stuff and also where your amp will be.
I think a 12" sub is good for any car. Have you asked the pros all of these questions? They should be able to help you out. Go to Autobarn or somewhere and they should help you out. If you want, get them to install it if you're really unsure of what you're doing. Maybe watch them do it so that you can learn, so next time, do it yourself :)

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Originally Posted by dc2r

To install a whole system like this you may need to do the following:
strip the whole car, that means seats and the side of the carpets and door trims and stuff. you might also wanna grab a few friends to help you. and you need a weekend. the wires (power and rca's etc) run under the carpet on either side of the car, depending where your battery is and stuff and also where your amp will be.
I think a 12" sub is good for any car. Have you asked the pros all of these questions? They should be able to help you out. Go to Autobarn or somewhere and they should help you out. If you want, get them to install it if you're really unsure of what you're doing. Maybe watch them do it so that you can learn, so next time, do it yourself :)

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thanks,
but i have read up on it and it seems to be clear. a few questions on it though. about where to place teh inline fuse. and if i actually solder it to the wire.

i'm a member of caraudioaustralia. and was going to offer someone $50 - $100 to come out to my place and do it for me.
that is the wiring and the speakers.

Battery fuse: Place it as close the the battery as possible (usually a few CM away
Trigger cable (tells your amp when to turn on) have this closest to the HU (a few cm away).

Hope that helps.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wynode

Battery fuse: Place it as close the the battery as possible (usually a few CM away
Trigger cable (tells your amp when to turn on) have this closest to the HU (a few cm away).

Hope that helps.

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i thought with the trigger cable, it ran from the headunit to the amp.
since my amp is in the boot it won't be a few centimetres away it will be a bit further? is that alright?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by blitz_syd

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wynode

Battery fuse: Place it as close the the battery as possible (usually a few CM away
Trigger cable (tells your amp when to turn on) have this closest to the HU (a few cm away).

Hope that helps.

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i thought with the trigger cable, it ran from the headunit to the amp.
since my amp is in the boot it won't be a few centimetres away it will be a bit further? is that alright?

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LOL I meant have the FUSE a few centimeters from the HU (to protect the HU)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wynode

Quote:

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Originally Posted by blitz_syd

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wynode

Battery fuse: Place it as close the the battery as possible (usually a few CM away
Trigger cable (tells your amp when to turn on) have this closest to the HU (a few cm away).

Hope that helps.

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i thought with the trigger cable, it ran from the headunit to the amp.
since my amp is in the boot it won't be a few centimetres away it will be a bit further? is that alright?

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LOL I meant have the FUSE a few centimeters from the HU (to protect the HU)

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you have me TOTALLY CONFUSED.

so i need two fuses than?

OK we are talking about the trigger wire yes?

What I meant was, you located the fuse for the trigger wire close to the HU. IE:

HU --> FUSE --------------------------> AMP


(Where ---> is the trigger wire)

Cool?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wynode

OK we are talking about the trigger wire yes?

What I meant was, you located the fuse for the trigger wire close to the HU. IE:

HU --> FUSE --------------------------> AMP


(Where ---> is the trigger wire)

Cool?

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thanks for diagram made me understand it completely.
the reason why i was confused firstly, was cause i haven't read anywhere that a fuse is required between the amp and the headunit.
i only read that it is required between the batt and the amp.
within 18" of the batt

Yeahh not everyone says to do it (infact I haven't done it yet) but its better safe than sorry if you short your amp accidentally.

Yeah I've never heard about this fuse between the HU and the Amp. I'm no expert, but isn't that what the fuse between the battery and the Amp is for? So that the Amp will not short? Therefore it will not affect anything else, HU, speakers, etc.??

Given that the trigger wire carries a +5 (I think it was 5) signal, its a just a safety precaution in case it touches the metal chasis of the car (which we all know is a -.ve ground), which could damage your HU.

Like I said, its a precautionary measure and I haven't even done it yet myslelf.

I own a 97 Civic hatchback. I wanna get Boston Rallys or Pro's in the front.
I measured the factory speakers & they are 6 1/4 inch diameter.
The splits are 6.5 inch. would they be able to squeeze in ???

You should start a new thread... ;)

They should fit but you may need to make a spacer to bring the speakers out a bit.

Why?

Cause the magnet will no doubt be bigger than the factory one and it needs clearance for the window. The only problem now is that the door skin may not be a snug fit, so you may either need to jam it back on or make a custom door pod with new covers on the door skins.

Hope that helps...