Another Euro Oil Topic Again! Need Advise!

Been reading past thread's about oil that each of you use in your car.

I now want to ask your opinion on this.

I currently have Repsol according to the sticker on my car windscreen its 10w-40. Not sure if its Semi Synthetic or Synthetic ?

Should I stick with it or go with something along the lines of Mobil 1 0w-40 or Pennzoil 5w-50 as it has long life protection.

I am a personal who does very very short journeys during the week home to work is less then 2.5km! Thus not giving engine oil time to heat through the engine.

But when it comes to the weekend normally give the engine a good work out (i.e. get stuck in city traffic, have air con on etc...)

I want to protect my engine! as much as possible so further more should I change oil at every 5000km not 10000km ?

I await your thoughts.....

Cheers

REV888

Stick to the Honda oil, you'll find that it is stated in the manual that you have to use Honda's oil in order to keep the warranty valid. I don't think it is worth using Mobil 1 in your case, it is much better to change the engine oil more often (follow the severe condition service schedule) than to use a more expensive oil.

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Originally Posted by aaronng

Stick to the Honda oil, you'll find that it is stated in the manual that you have to use Honda's oil in order to keep the warranty valid. I don't think it is worth using Mobil 1 in your case, it is much better to change the engine oil more often (follow the severe condition service schedule) than to use a more expensive oil.

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Honda Oil Is good but made for colder climates not really for hot and humid conditions we face here in Australia.

But will look into the severe condition service schedule thanks ;)

Honda FEO oil is good enough.
Some say they are Caltex oil, just packaged as honda oil.

If your home to work is only 2.5km, why not walk to work? LOL.

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Originally Posted by aaronng

Stick to the Honda oil, you'll find that it is stated in the manual that you have to use Honda's oil in order to keep the warranty valid..

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Where does it say that? My dealer puts in the oil I asked him to put in - no problem with warranty as long as it meets the honda specifications in your manual.

yeah any good oil is OK. won't void the warranty. doesn't really matter if you put Mobil 1 or just honda oil.

It's more important to change oil regularly like every 5000km if possible.

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Originally Posted by baboo

Honda FEO oil is good enough.
Some say they are Caltex oil, just packaged as honda oil.

If your home to work is only 2.5km, why not walk to work? LOL.

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Some time I do ;) But most of the time I dont as later on usally have to drive to a client's office.

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Originally Posted by baboo

yeah any good oil is OK. won't void the warranty. doesn't really matter if you put Mobil 1 or just honda oil.

It's more important to change oil regularly like every 5000km if possible.

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Is that how often you change your oil ?

A full synthetic shoud last longer than 5000kms. I am using Shell Helix Ultra - i think it is 5-40 or something close to that. Not an expensive oil - $44 or something like that for 5 litres.

The Shell oil doesn't seem to put out as much power as the Castrol Formula R I used previously - yet the Formula R was semi-synthetic and cost around the same.

I might give the full synthetic Castrol Formula R a go next time - it is more expensive though - around $65

Formula R shouldn't cost more than $45 for the 5w-30 stuff.....thats the most I've ever paid for that oil.

Formula R is some pretty good stuff especially the 10W-60 truly fully synthetic, run specifically at targa tasmania on some cars, mainly wrx's. motul is also a good one turbo light 4400, that what i am going to use, good personal reviews from lots of owners , oil compound does not break down so can be changed every 10000km instead of 5000km, had a member on another forum get the oil tested. But all in all if you get your cars oil changed every 5000km you can't go wrong, it will looked better on your log books and when you sell you car you get more for it.

you don't really take you car to track on put it under much stress a decent synthetic oil will do, no need to go overboard unless you want to.

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Originally Posted by REV888

Is that how often you change your oil ?

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Yeah, but it's personal preference really...

Like yFin said, full synthetics lasts more than 5000km. But in your case, you only travel short distances, oil don't even gets to warm up properly. The oil gets blacken & degrade quite quickly.

Stick with Honda Oil and change every 5000km that's what I'll do.

In my case, I do trackdays once or twice a month, so I change it every 5000km.

In my last car I used Castrol 10w-60 it worked wonders could I use that in the Euro or do you think it to high specs ratings ?

What do you think guys

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Originally Posted by REV888

In my last car I used Castrol 10w-60 it worked wonders could I use that in the Euro or do you think it to high specs ratings ?

What do you think guys

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If its good enough for the subaru rally team in australia, it's good enough for your Euro.

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Originally Posted by Lowenhart

Formula R shouldn't cost more than $45 for the 5w-30 stuff.....thats the most I've ever paid for that oil.

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Yes - that is the stuff I have used - it is semi-synthetic and I paid around $40. The full synthetic Formula R - i think it is 0-40 or something like that is over $60

You get what you pay for!!

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Originally Posted by Catcha

If its good enough for the subaru rally team in australia, it's good enough for your Euro.

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What do you use in your Jazz ?

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Originally Posted by REV888

What do you use in your Jazz ?

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I'm going to use motul turbolite 4000 when i do my 10000km service or castrol R 10w-60. If i still had my WRX i still only choose between these two. these are good enough for me.

I personally if i had a High performance car again i would still only use turbolite 4000, unless i was racing and doing drags and track days then 300v chrono would be the choice but at that price everything starts to very expensive. but if your racing your car in track days you would want maximum protection $80 for 4 litres i think for 300v chrono is nothing compared to a whole engine rebuild...


In the end you want to ensure maxium protection service it every 5000km. and you can't go wrong whatever decent oil you use.

Castrol have 3 grades of Synthetic oil in their range 0W-40, 5W-30, 10W-60. Running 10W-60 in a road car that is used for daily driving is a waste of time really, it will just use more fuel and rob you of peak power compared to 5W-30 or 0W-40.

The 10W-60 is designed for highly stressed engines ie race engines as they spend most of the time on peak revs. 5W-30 is designed for high revving four cylinders and 0W-40 is for large luxury cars, but this is the grade I have been running in my car the last 6 months.

You can find the 5W-30 for around $45 and 0W-40 for around $70 at supercheap, but if you look up the yellow pages for a local Castrol Distributor, you should get the 0W-40 for $50.

Dont kid yourself the synthetic oils are far superior to the honda Mineral grade oil. You get a longer life, smoother idle and power delivery, more power, an improved fuel economy etc etc Dont be fooled thinking oh but hang on the Honda Handbook states I need 10W-40 etc not 0W-40 will this be harmful to my engine. The answer is generally no, the synthetic oils can be of a lower viscosity due to the fact they dont break down as easily as a mineral oil (burn oil)

By far the best oil I have used is the Fuchs Titan GT1 0W-20, it last 15000 kays with no sludging evident, and still remained within the viscosity specification after 15000 kays. The RRP is around $120 for 5L, but when this stuff is used and reccommended by Porsche for the GT3 etc uno its da shit.

At the end of the day you will notice an improvement in using a synthetic oil as soon as you turn the key, with a smoother power delivery between gears, and the synth oil should offset the initial cost outlayed by using less fuel then a min oil.

0w-40 is good for getting the maxium power output for your car, but because its thin, it may not lubricate enough more power but at a cost of wearing out the engine more. 10w-60 may rob you a bit of peak power , but it's better than spinning a bearing in you engine or lessening the life of it , and it will give you a bit of safety and assurance, the all rounder is 10w-30 what most factory recommends. If you in a humid part of australia 0w-40 is not a good grade, like where i am, was told by technik tuning in melbourne to use 15w-50 cause of the conditions up here hot humid and harsh, even honda dealers here recommend every 5000km intervals , 15w-50 is the grade of oil down southern parts use when they take there cars on track days and really hammer it for a few laps.
before i was using mobile 0w-40 but seeked advice, but for maxium power you have more wear and tear on the engine. was it worth it, not in my opinion,i'll rather reduce that few kw's. Don't think it would have the much of a affect on a n/a engine but for a turbo cause the oil flows through it, having a thicker oil increases spool up time for the turbo, but having a thinnner grade will increase it giving it better response

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Originally Posted by Catcha

0w-40 is good for getting the maxium power output for your car, but because its thin, it may not lubricate enough more power but at a cost of wearing out the engine more. 10w-60 may rob you a bit of peak power , but it's better than spinning a bearing in you engine or lessening the life of it , and it will give you a bit of safety and assurance, the all rounder is 10w-30 what most factory recommends. If you in a humid part of australia 0w-40 is not a good grade, like where i am, was told by technik tuning in melbourne to use 15w-50 cause of the conditions up here hot humid and harsh, even honda dealers here recommend every 5000km intervals , 15w-50 is the grade of oil down southern parts use when they take there cars on track days and really hammer it for a few laps.
before i was using mobile 0w-40 but seeked advice, but for maxium power you have more wear and tear on the engine. was it worth it, not in my opinion,i'll rather reduce that few kw's. Don't think it would have the much of a affect on a n/a engine but for a turbo cause the oil flows through it, having a thicker oil increases spool up time for the turbo, but having a thinnner grade will increase it giving it better response

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Im no petroleum engineer, but I have to disagree with you. Fuchs Titan GT1 is rated up to just over 60 Deg ambient air temp. I cant think of anywhere in Australia reaching those kinda of ambient air temps?!?

The 0W-40 should have no problems in 99% of australian conditions.........

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Originally Posted by smoknhothonda

Im no petroleum engineer, but I have to disagree with you. Fuchs Titan GT1 is rated up to just over 60 Deg ambient air temp. I cant think of anywhere in Australia reaching those kinda of ambient air temps?!?

The 0W-40 should have no problems in 99% of australian conditions.........

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Your Fuchs Titan GT1 would handle it...i don't know enough about that to comment on that oil.....

and your right 0w-40 would have no problems but at the expense of more wear on the engine is what i am saying, because it's thin it just doens't lubricate enough compared to a thicker oil or give that extra protection....


but everyone has there own oils they stick to so it's an argument that will go on forever ...

Guys,

Thanks for all your input I have decided to go with Fuchs Titan GT1 0w-20 if its good enough for a PORSCHE GT3 its good enough for my Euro ;)

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Originally Posted by REV888

Guys,

Thanks for all your input I have decided to go with Fuchs Titan GT1 0w-20 if its good enough for a PORSCHE GT3 its good enough for my Euro ;)

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Um, hang on. That is very thin - even the Honda spec is 5w-30. Personally I wouldn't go thinner - thicker is ok for harsh climates - but thinner for Aust? The 0w doesn't worry me too much - but 20 weight at high temp?

Good oil for one car may not always be good for another, I can't really stress enough about this point. Ok, subaru team use it, porsche GT3 uses it, but engine of these two cars compared to the Euro is very different, so why use the same oil??

Anyway, my dealership used Castrol Magnatex FMX, which is 10W30, and I find it pretty good. If you look at the manual you'll find that 10W30 is perfect, or if you want some thicker, 15W40.

I used MagnaTec on my old car last time and it worked great... it's a 10w-40.. Wonder if I should try it..

Right now I am using Shell Helix Ultra...

One thing we have to note is that Australian conditions are harsh and I still think that 10w-30 isn't good enough for our conditions....

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Originally Posted by yfin

Um, hang on. That is very thin - even the Honda spec is 5w-30. Personally I wouldn't go thinner - thicker is ok for harsh climates - but thinner for Aust? The 0w doesn't worry me too much - but 20 weight at high temp?

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Comparing a 5W-30 MINERAL oil with a SYNTHETIC oil Is like chalk and cheese mate.

With a synthetic oil you can getaway with a lower viscosity because the polymer properties are different (they are synthetically engineered)

In Case of the GT1 it is a Double ester oil, so at 150 Deg C for example it will still remain at the same viscosity rating as 50 Deg C. But if you were to measure the viscosity of a MINERAL oil at 150 Deg C the oil would become 'thinner' due to the higher tempurature. So basically the mineral oil starts to break down at higher temps (the polymers) this is why you will never see a OW-20 0W-40 Mineral oil etc.

geez... the issue on which oil to use seems like a black hole and never ends... lol
i think it will be a good idea for a sticky poll at each model specified sections... like in accord --list out oils members are using and everyone votes for oil brands....

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Originally Posted by Catcha

0w-40 is good for getting the maxium power output for your car, but because its thin, it may not lubricate enough more power but at a cost of wearing out the engine more. 10w-60 may rob you a bit of peak power , but it's better than spinning a bearing in you engine or lessening the life of it , and it will give you a bit of safety and assurance, the all rounder is 10w-30 what most factory recommends. If you in a humid part of australia 0w-40 is not a good grade, like where i am, was told by technik tuning in melbourne to use 15w-50 cause of the conditions up here hot humid and harsh, even honda dealers here recommend every 5000km intervals , 15w-50 is the grade of oil down southern parts use when they take there cars on track days and really hammer it for a few laps.
before i was using mobile 0w-40 but seeked advice, but for maxium power you have more wear and tear on the engine. was it worth it, not in my opinion,i'll rather reduce that few kw's. Don't think it would have the much of a affect on a n/a engine but for a turbo cause the oil flows through it, having a thicker oil increases spool up time for the turbo, but having a thinnner grade will increase it giving it better response

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Please explain this one. I've been using Mobil 0w-40. And i floor the damn thing. How is the wear any greater than any other 0w-40 oils... assuming relatively they're similar. I know its a thin oil, but if it doesn't break down, and it covers all surfaces, then what's the fuss? its not like there is no lubrication.

And if it was too thin, i would be burning it out the exhaust, but to this day, have no oil loss, or very little.

As mentioned in the last thread about synthetic oils a few weeks ago, I started to use Mobil 1 10w-30 from the first service after checking with Honda re the warranty. The answer from Honda was that provided the same grade of oil was used as recommended in the handbook there would be no warranty issue's.

I think anyone that is thinking of using any 10w 60 oil or anything else too far out of the recommended grades in the Euro should really think again. Stick with either the genuine Honda mineral oil, my dealer uses a Castrol blend or use Mobil 1 10w-30 or something very close like the Castrol R 5w-30. You will have piece of mind that you are using the oil grade recomended by Honda & that you will have no issue's with the vehicles warranty should something go wrong.
I am very happy with Mobil 1, get great fuel economy & the oil always remains very clean. :thumbsup:

I used to use the 300V crono in my prelude. Now that is some awesome Sh*t.. but its so damn expensive.

Well its very very smooth stuff, runs well under extreme conditions. Definitley lets the revs run free without sounding loose. When I had it on my prelude, I changed it every 10000kms.

I mean you'd be crazy to change it every 5000kms at around $90 per change.Anyway there was an article on a test done on Mobil 1 sythetic oil, and they did not change it for over 100,000kms, just changed oil filter. They said it got better with age. I'm not sure whether the article was on this forum or another.

I'd stick to whats in the service book. If you're feeling rich then do whatever you want. But seriously, unless the oil feels gritty, to thick or you just can't see through it when you wipe it on white cloth, I dont' think you need to change the oil in too much of a hurry.

Can you change you oil yourself? I mean if you drop the oil out is there a sensor which will not let the car start until it has been reset? I would be interested to know. By the way 0-20 is far too thin for Australian climate. Go for a synthetic 10-40 or 5-40 or even a 10-50 if you drive your car a bit harder.

Regards,
Steve

Love to Love the Legend

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Originally Posted by HondaLegend89

Can you change you oil yourself? I mean if you drop the oil out is there a sensor which will not let the car start until it has been reset? I would be interested to know. By the way 0-20 is far too thin for Australian climate. Go for a synthetic 10-40 or 5-40 or even a 10-50 if you drive your car a bit harder.

Regards,
Steve

Love to Love the Legend

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If you have really run out of oil, you will get a oil pressure warning light.
The car will still run and start, but the engine probably won't last long without any oil in it. I had it happen to my old Prelude once when the sump plug came off and I lost all oil. by the time I got home, there was nothing in the sump. it wasn't good.

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Originally Posted by coladuna

If you have really run out of oil, you will get a oil pressure warning light.

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I thought it was already almost empty when the light comes on and was advised to find a place to add more oil straight away. :confused: