I have a few plugs in my boot where the previous owner had an amp and subwoofer installed so was wondering if I'd be able to just pretty much plug and play now?
Printable View
I have a few plugs in my boot where the previous owner had an amp and subwoofer installed so was wondering if I'd be able to just pretty much plug and play now?
More details needed.
What do you mean by 'plugs'?
What gauge is the wiring? What are you intending to put in? (more specifically, details of amp/s & sub/s. plus, fuse ratings of the amp/s.)
I'll have to get a photo of them but I'm really not sure yet. Whats the best way to pick a setup? Just bought a new headunit but have plans for a subwoofer and amp soon.
There's no 'best' way. Just come up with a budget and work from there. Speak to Marty at FHRX about a proposed system. Also, ask if the current wiring in your car will be compatible with it. Hopefully your new headunit will provide enough RCA outputs & competent processing without the need to get another...
Not sure what you mean by 'plugs' but don't worry about taking a picture, as Marty will know if they're necessary or not.
www.fhrxstudios.com
If you're lucky it will be plug and play. I always like to replace all my cables to new ones but to each their own. You should still do some tracing to make sure you know what you are connecting to what. Last car I bought the guy ran ground with red and black as positive..........................
Good luck!
Not sure when I'll be able to get out that far unfortunately, may need to find somewhere local. And yeah I see where your coming from, fresh new install may be the best idea.
Any thoughts on this setup?
Headunit: Pioneer DEH-2350UB (Installed already) http://www.ryda.com.au/Pioneer-DEH-2.../deh2350ub.htm
Amp: Pioneer GM-3500T 2 Channel Car Amplifier $118 http://www.ryda.com.au/Pioneer-GM-35...-p/gm3500t.htm
Sub: Pioneer TS-W309S4 12" Subwoofer $152 http://www.ryda.com.au/Pioneer-TS-W3...p/tsw309s4.htm
Bumpin'
Just a lil guide for you. Only use Pioneer for headunits, that's it.
Not reading between the lines or noticing little details again nightkids? he already has a head unit installed.
Btw, IDV8, by 'plugs' did you mean the RCA's? Did the previous owner leave behind any power wiring for you or only these 'plugs'?
Other subwoofer options may be an Alpine Type-S or JL W1.
Amps, with that budget you'd definitely have to stick to a 2 channel (that one in your link will be fine). Just make sure when you get a sub that it gives a final impedance of 4ohm (so svc 4ohm or dvc 2ohm) as that pioneer 2-channel isnt 2ohm stable.
Quote:
Originally Posted by arverson
I think he was trying to say disregard the pioneer sub and amp.
ahhh fair enough. my mistake. in that case id agree.
Am I going to notice any cons with the setup above? As for wiring I'm unsure so I think my best bet is to have the car re-wired with the new wires that come with the amp. Guessing I'll have to mark the current wiring so they don't say they've swapped it over when really they haven't though.. lol :P Any specific reason for Alpine sub > Pioneer sub? I'm hoping to get the best "bang for buck" out of the system purely for better quality audio when I drive.Quote:
Originally Posted by IDV8
Glad u were able to read between the lines this time =)Quote:
Originally Posted by arverson
hahah touche. that makes it nightkids:1, arverson:34556745 :p just joking buddy
idv8, try to save up a little more. nothing worse than having to upgrade simply cus the 'cheaper deal' doesnt cut it. you'll be much happier, and save more in the long run. but its your money so your call.
What would you consider an ideal 'bang for buck' system? Headunit is already down so I'm guessing just a subwoofer and amplifier for now, new speakers after a while (although there were 2 Pioneer speakers already installed when purchased)
And why Alpine > Pioneer when it comes to the amps/subs? I know Alpine is one of the priciest but I always thought Pioneer made quality audio products?
The Pioneer TS-W309 is a good choice for a bang for buck system; provided you put it in the right ported box. Not an accurate sub by any means, but good for filling the car with bass. The pre-fab ported box it comes in is'nt too bad aswell.
I would recommend the Mach5 line of subs, but their out of stock at the moment.
The amp on the other hand, can't recommend. Had an old version of the GM-D7500M, gutless and not enough juice to get it moving like it should.
If you gotta shop Ryda, look at kenwood: http://www.ryda.com.au/Kenwood-KAC-9...p/kac9105d.htm
500W@4ohms RMS will move that Pioneer nicely, and 900W@2/1ohm RMS if you ever decide to upgrade to a second sub (it always happens!)
With regards to the whole Alpine VS Pioneer thing, both brands are simply shells of what they were 10yrs ago. In fact, most mainstream brands are, most just rely on name and reputation to keep selling. Don't get me wrong, i LOVE Alpine headunits, but for half the price you can grab a JVC or Eclipse with similar features.
The speakers and subwoofers are far surpassed by the specialist stuff coming from the states & europe: Morel, Arc Audio, FI, Hertz, Image Dynamics etc.
Doesn't need to be Ryda, just had the specifics I was looking to compare :) I'd also consider a custom box that a shop in Liverpool make, its for any 12" sub and fits in the corner of DC5 boots. Guess a plus side when it comes to saving some $$ is that I'm not looking for anything "showy" but I also don't just want a huge box sitting in the middle of my boot if I can avoid it. Or would I be better off with something listed here? http://www.ryda.com.au/Ryda-Car-Audi...Store-s/65.htm - Thanks for the reply :)
lol so basically that means averson: 1 , love for Marty Price: 34556745.Quote:
Originally Posted by arverson
How come ur always directing everyone and everything to Marty? Are u actually Marty with a fake nick and fake location?
In response to the op... none of those subs are good. JL Audio W3s are pretty good, if you got the bucks then go for Image Dynamics!
I'd direct everyone to Marty because I've had lots of experience with him back when I was competing in SQ comps
If he was closer I'd consider it :)
This is the custom enclosure I was considering for my DC5, it holds a 12" sub and fits snug in the corner and can be attached etc
http://i.ebayimg.com/00/$(KGrHqYOKkI...rkpg~~0_12.JPG
IDV8, perhaps i should ask you, what do you want from your sub setup? deep bass, a sub that will play everything nice, a small enclosure, or a ground pounding SPL setup? Choose your goal first i suppose.
I'd say a sub that'll play everything nice, good quality sound but not an annoyingly deep bass where everything rattles etc I guess - best I can explain it I think :P A small enclosure would be good too as I use my boot from time to time. Right now with the stock sound have to have it up pretty loud to hear any solid bass to a song so it always just seems like somethings missing.
For an nice, accurate sub that plays well in a sealed box you can start cheap (under $200): Orion Cobalt, Arc Audio KS, Clarion SRW, Kenwood XW122(2/4).
Step it up to roughly $400, you get subs that rise above the chainstore norm such as Image Dynamics IDQ, Morel Ultimo SC, Hertz HX300, Arc Audio ARC12.
Not a definitive list, but just subs i've installed/listened to that work well in a sealed enclosure.
alpine for quality
Kickers for performance
Pioneer for bang for buck
JLW same boat as pioneer
sony cause u didnt look at the other subs on the market
Those are my what i think, though other may think other wise ;)
Ur best bet is to go into jbhifi or some car audio an listen to what they are like, and decide, or ask ur mates with subs lol...
Im running a alpine type-R sub, cant go wrong with them but thats way out the price range, but u do get what u pay for, only flaw is that the box was almost impossible to fit in the boot of the civic coupe! but other wise, id go alpine over pioneer anyday! the quality of the bass and low range frequency compared to other subs is much better
Alpine is pretty damn expensive though :\ I was hoping to keep it under $500 (1 sub and 1 amp)
Nah im not Marty himself. I bring them up cus most of the time the OP is from Sydney. Every time theyre in Vic ill point them towards Sam @ Phatt, Mark @ FCA or Michael @ Riverside Customs. Im well-aware of each of their work, and more importantly, the high quality & standards they adhere to. If i point an OP towards one of them then ill know they'll be looked after with exceptional customer service & invaluable advice. I cant say the same for JB and other boxmovers.Quote:
Originally Posted by NightKids
Im sure many here can testify how happy they are after dealing with any of those specialists above.
Anyway...... agree with RADS recommendations of the Ultimo SC, IDQ 12, Arc 12 & Hertz. Definitely a step up from 'entry' subs. Tho if theyre simply out of budget, other considerations may be an Alpine Type-S or JL w1/w0 series.
Wouldnt say Alpine is expensive, they have something to cater to different budgets, like every other brand.
Personally i love their source units, processors and accessories. They allow you to easily 'expand upon' if you wish. Gonna have to generalise a bit here, but their speakers & subs are overrated IMO. Plenty of other brands (a few of which RAD mentioned) who actually specialize in speaker drivers and perform much better. Their entry-level amplifiers are ok and decently priced for the average person but at the same time there are plenty who make great/better amps. But of course, the more performance you ask of, the more its gonna cost. You really pay for what you get in car audio.
Now, considering the budget, probably best to stick to an entry-level sub and a 2-channel bridged. That way when it comes time to upgrade you can use that amp for the front speakers, and get a dedicated monoblock for the sub. Second-hand could be an option but obviously no-ones gonna know everything thats out there..
Me thinks its bout time you actually go or speak to a store..
Always point the VIC guys towards Riverside Customs ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by arverson
But yeah, time to go to a store and have a chat, they're not gonna laugh at you or try to sell you $$$$$ in gear.
Thanks for the replies :) Gonna save a bit more $$ then go for it, will probably check back here if I choose to go the route of used/near new Alpine setup or something though
Hahah dw if theyre from the west or even northside Riverside will be mentioned, and i have many times on here :)Quote:
Originally Posted by RAD
Have to sneak Phatt or FCA in tho, cant let you have all the fun :p
Go where?
seems to me your trying to do too many things at once.
chillax ayyyyyyyyy
I was just reading thread titles, I'm confused.Quote:
Originally Posted by CRXDEL501
im talking about the op lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by newpaddy3
suspension
servicing
stereos
theres a billion threads.
I wish I could rep you again.Quote:
Originally Posted by CRXDEL501
hahaQuote:
Originally Posted by newpaddy3
all good.
i havent really shared any information as such thats worth the rep point. too tired to give any good information lol
No I mean I'd have to rep a whole lot of people before I could rep you again, and well, I just can't be bothered.Quote:
Originally Posted by CRXDEL501
ive got an amp forsale that is strong enough to blow any subs away ... PM
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...20-d16-d15-wtf!
yeah.... your ads not exactly true... it's only 1000rms at 1ohm... unless your birth certificate says 1500rms.. which is a shitload. Usually an amps actual power is only <100 more than quoted...Quote:
Originally Posted by XB-16-AX
and aside from that, it wouldn't blow 'any' sub away... it'd blow away the cheaper, less power hungry ones... the more expensive, more power hungry ones, it'd have trouble.
But yes, it'd suffice for a basic install.
Its not my add with regards to power claims, its jaycars.
IMO they dont put out that much power anyways,
Unless u own one of these puppies,
Soundstream tarantula, hifonics, PPI - precision power.
PPI are competition amps! And they are proven output power!!
Cant wait for my PPI monoblock to arrive.
Yeah where did you get 1500 from?
Found a source on the net bout jaycar amps spec.Quote:
Originally Posted by trism
Could be tru or claimed outputs.
Ill dig up the specs when i get to work. Its somewhere.
I dunno if it was that one but.
I'm sure that the previous generation which were silver not black where rated at 1500, but when tested only made 1200.
So they dropped the rating to 1000
your probably right champ!Quote:
Originally Posted by trism
jaycar are not a bad amp.
if you want the continious RMS @ 14.4v you will need a farid cap. as it tends to heat up and drops it power eventually. (depends on how loud your subwoffa is turned up!)
fully sikk yuleh!
Gonna disagree on the capacitor.
Just run a nice big battery with thick power wire and upgraded engine bay grounds.
im running massive power/gnd/speaker/remote cables and my battery is a 660cc 15plates for commodore v8s and i still loose power if i crank up the volume to midway - the cars power seems like it wants to shut down. Then i bought a farid capacitor and eliminated the current/voltage drop issue and got to pump it up hard!Quote:
Originally Posted by trism
i noticed without the farid, the voltage dropped to 12.4v supplied power to the amp which caused it to overwork and heat up too quick. Once the farid was in - continuous 14.4v without any voltage drop supply to the amp! win!
im using soundstream tarantula monoblock PCA-2000D. matched with Soundstream X3-122 5000W X3 Sub -Dual 2 Ohm
http://www.getprice.com.au/images/up..._1892747-1.jpg
rated at: 1 x 2000RMS @ 4ohms (14.4v)
you can feel and hear the bass from a street away ..LOL
full SPL comp setup!
In my old car I was running Alpine PDX series. I had a monoblock that was birthsheeted at 1300wrms. A 4 channel that was sheeted at 4x180wrms and a 2 channel that was 2x180wrms.
2380 wrms all up, I was running an optima deep cycle marine battery. The d31 blue top. 900cca
With a single 0ga running to the back, and a single 0ga earth I never had any problems with headlight dimming or power shortage. And you could hear it from blocks away.
wow that battery is a monster... is that the gel/cell type odyssey type batteries? u knw the maintenance free ones?>Quote:
Originally Posted by trism
man i need to get one of those batteries :)
yeh it must be my battery or alternator not being able to keep up with the huge supply/requirement of the amp.
the farken amp weighs like 10kgs - and the sub alone is like almost 20kg.. lol wtf
def my ride is just for sounds and not for JDM rice or racing etc.
yeah it was the cell type.
I've got a single amp that's like 1600wrms (it's a 5 channel amp) running off a tiny century battery, 0awg wiring to the back, 0awg ground... I have no dimming issues... Engine noise is another story (it's just sitting in the boot atm.. I have yet to properly install it)
good shit.
your engine noise is related to a poor amplifier ground.
Or u can install a noise suppressor unit.
thats a bandaid fix.
its like putting tape around a radiator hose to stop a leak rather than just replacing the hose.
You will go and spend 20 bucks on a suppresor, when it might just take sanding down some paint where the ground point is, and a 5 minute job.
I think it's more the fact it's just sitting in the boot, which is all metal, and has like a few mm thick rubber mat in there... that and the headunits ground is pretty terrible... >.> might send a wire all the way back to the battery, to be safe.. or unscrew the carpet and attempt to find a spot to ground it >.>
so the cause of engine noise is nothing more than what is called a "ground loop"
Its caused by a few things.
1. the amplifier ground isnt very good, so it actually tries to ground back through the RCAs up to the headunit.
2. If the amplifier is screwed/bolted to directly to the chassis/boot/metal/ it causes the ground to feed straight back from the wire, to the body of the amp. So what the best thing to do is, get some sickaflex, and glue a bit of 16mm mdf to the floor, and then screw the amp to that.
haha, I really should make a temporary false floor... It's not bolted down xD
But yeah, I need to find my sandpaper, or buy some more to fix up the ground properly... I did scratch off some paint for the ground, but yeah.. I do need to fix the amp ground a bit better, and fix the headunit's ground too...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drifter995
Yeh make sure it aint a rusted area or is not prone to moist or wetness
That helps too
Yeah, it's a bolt that holds the brake light cover in place... bolted directly to the body of the car. hells yeah old cars.