I spray my car and want to cut and polish it soon.
Which compound do you recommend?
If you got any tips on doing it post please.
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I spray my car and want to cut and polish it soon.
Which compound do you recommend?
If you got any tips on doing it post please.
their are numerous compounds out there all depends on personal preferance really im a painter by trade and i usually like to you farecla g3 liquid compound first to burnish the paint up to a gloss first then followed by a swirl remover/glaze then lastly a liquid hardwax ontop for protection. I use autoglym products for polish and wax as they hold up really well and are easy to apply.
When cutting and buffing break down the panels into small sections
try not to stay in the same spot when buffing spread the pressure over an area of 30-40 cms otherwise you can heat the panel up and it can warp or you can buff through the paint and mark it.
hope this helps
Was your repaint a professional respray with 2-pack car paint? Or was it a home DIY spray?
why does it matter? urethane is still urethane whether sprayed at home or in shop. if question was using urethane or acrylic?Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
It's home Diy, 2pack paint.
Is this good polisher
is this alright ?
Is it alright polish ? or i should use white compound ?
I'm not sure if you can use Autoglym paint renovator (abrasive polish) with a random orbital. But that stuff works pretty good
if you hav never used a rotary buffer before i wouldnt practise on your new paintjob
@Mochhi, the reason why Aarronng asked if it was done profeesionally or not was the gauge the amount of work required or maybe even to suggest her go back to the guy who did the job to get the cut back done
any compound will do, you need a pretty fair abrasive then will need to go through subsequent stages with a finer polish to remove any marring from the original cut back
Thanks a lot guys
Any recommended compound ?
I have done some researches on how to use buffer, will see how it goes.
It matters because if it is done at home the finish can be a bit coarser which means a compound may be insufficient as the first step. Instead, a wet sanding step with a 1500 grit wet abrasive paper wrapped around a foam block is used before going onto the compound.Quote:
Originally Posted by mocchi
Is the finish smooth or does it look like it has severe orange peel? You might find that a compound as the first step insufficient in leveling the paint surface if the orange peel is strong. In that case, wet sanding with a 1500-2000 grit wet abrasive paper may be required. It is more difficult than using a compound with a rotary, but you can practice beforehand on a baking tray.Quote:
Originally Posted by hmetro24
A random orbital does not provide enough cutting action. Even to remove regular swirls on a car's original paint, I need to use a medium compound on a medium cut pad on a rotary. Using the same compound and pad on a random orbital did not do much, even after 8 passes! The surface was shiny as, but the swirls still remained.Quote:
Originally Posted by charliebrown
to clear up using just compound alone on a paints surface is not going to flatten it no matter how or where you put the paint on the only way for a flat finish is to cut it with 1500-2000 grit sandpaper.
Followed buy a compound dont confuse compound with a polish either. A compound has a fine abrasive in it its only to burnish the paint back up to a shine, to remove scratches polish then a glaze (or swirl remover)
Avoid anything from supercheap.
Invest in good quality compounds and polishes. I use Menzerna PG1000 for heavy cutting, 3M step "A" for lighter compounding. Menzerna IP2000 to remove finer compound marks if needed (especially black, or from PG1000) Menzerna PF2500 to polish, Ferro's Zero swirl to finish.
You also need different pads for compounding, polish and finishing. Unfortunatly, to compound you'll need a rotary buffer, very easy to make mistakes with.
Most, almost 80% of panel shops here use Farecla. Its very good and quick.
Any cutting pad will do but it depends on the method you use.
If doing full cut and polish here are very brief and simple steps.
1. Rub back full car in 2000 paper removing all peel and avoid cutting through the clear
2. Clean and dry full car
3. Use Lambs wool cutting pad with coarse cutting compound. This is to remove the sanding marks
4. Clean all left over cutters on the car.
5. Repeat step 4 until all 100% of sanding marks are gone.
6. Use very fine cutting compound with a white foam cutting pad to remove swirl marks left from lambs wool.
7. Repeat step 6 until all swirl marks are gone.
8. Use Polishing/Glaze with a black foam pad to remove any minor marks left from cutters and/or cloths.
During each step rinse and clean your microfiber cloth. Be sure to use a brand new cloth after polishing.
Note: If your car is black.....Do not do this as it is virtually impossible to cut a black car without marks left on it.
any specific tips for black cars?
I dunno mines black. i havent even wanted to test it out. Even when i run my rough hands on the car it leaves scratch marks. so im thinking....just respray
sanding with 200 grit? are you sure?Quote:
Originally Posted by chauster
All the colour sanding methods I have seen are no where near that course
OPSSSS mistype. 2000 lol. fk
ty for correction.Quote:
Originally Posted by Red_EG4
haha just imagine if this poor guy did a 200 grit block sand to remove peel
GG chauster he'd be hunting you down
alot more than just peel coming off that panel
You have such a big imagination dude ;). lowest for sanding is 1200-1500-2000 grit. also there is no 200 grit if i am not mistaken. 40-80-120-240-320-400-600-800-1200-1500-2000Quote:
Originally Posted by Red_EG4
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...0030_large.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by chauster
http://i.imgur.com/NsJee.jpg
it will take ages to sand it to the metal with 200( which doesnt exist)
i've seeeen 8> 24>36>40>80>100>120>180>240>300>320>400>500>600>80 0>1000>1200>1500>2000>3000 and cutting compound is rated about 3000-5000 grit...