Hi I should have asked before I purchased 24 litres hahah, but just checking that 5w30 redline synthetic should be okay for use in new Euro for changes between dealer services?
It works out $11-12 per quart shipped to AUS from amazon at the moment when you buy 12 quarts, seems very cheap compared to $20-$30 prices in Australia.
Apparently its quite thick and more like 5w-38, I am in Brisbane so just wondering if this grade will be okay in the heat?
Any input welcome.
Between dealer services? Dealer uses 10w-40 or 5w-30, you will be fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by eurasian
your oil will last twice as long as your crappy dealer oil if not more.
Yes it's Bloody good oil.
Get your dealer to use your own redline instead. Dealer oil = wombat piss compared to what you got.
Yeah was thinking about changing at 5k instead of wating for 10k dealer change. But as you have said I should get them to use it as well. On reading a bit more I am thinking of getting somthing with a lower startup viscosity ie 0W20 to mix with it 3-1 to make the overall starting viscosity lower so less damage is done on starts. I have emailed redline, be intresting to see what they have to say. I am thinking the 5w38 is a bit rough on starting viscosity sitting at around 60 by memory.
Also the oils on amazon only have free US shipping but it only cost $8 shipping for 12 quarts which is basicly nothing, would certianly be under cost. They have bulk royal purple and other brands cheap as well.
Send me the Amazon link lols.Quote:
Originally Posted by eurasian
Otherwise, do not mix it with 0w-20. You only need 0w-XX if you have -0"C starting temps.
Redline would have addictives to aid to the protection, and full-syn oil flows a lot faster/better, so I wouldn't worry about the 60 viscosity at cold start... Considering how warm our climate is.
5k is only 3500 miles or so, redline lasts 10,000miles or more, any more frequent change is just waste of money if you dont so track days IMO.
I had 5w-30 before, it starts just fine. Just leave car warm up for at least 1/2 a 1 min on a cold start before you move, that's all.
Redline 5w30 for $125 US plus $8 us postage to AUS
http://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-5W30-...9226874&sr=8-1
Royal Purple 5w30 5 gallon for $163 I havnt tried but postage may be really cheap as well as from amazon (they have really low postage on some large heavy items, it shouldnt cost $8 to send 11 litres of oil lol).
http://www.amazon.com/Royal-Purple-0...9226971&sr=1-1
..postage comes to $95 thru amazon on 5 gallon
yeah just tried all other oils even redline packs but they all cost $60-$90 for shipping, I just bought two more 12 quart packs from that top link at $8 shipping each, must be a pricing error but they are going through and first order is shipping now.
LoL... Will do the same $5.42 shipping! Purchased :)Quote:
Originally Posted by eurasian
I worked out why, they have postage weight listed as 1 pound, should be 25 lol
sshhhhhhh :)Quote:
Originally Posted by eurasian
How much oil do you need per oil change?
I just clicked place order without thinking..!!!!!!
4.5 litersQuote:
Originally Posted by pitiek
Or approx 5 quarts
Just received notification from amazon that my order has been shipped.. Should I order more????
My CU2 has 3000kms on the clock, when can I start using synthetic oil?
wheneverQuote:
Originally Posted by pitiek
Noob Q: What's the benefit of a good synthetic vs dealer magnatec stuff?
Last longer, freer flowing, better protection, tougher against stress etc etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by I CU2
Better engine response (given the same weight of oil)
So my next service at 10000km I should be safe to use synthetic?
Do I need to put a special request to the service dept to do a proper oil flush or thats a common thing that they do?
It's a new car, so nothing special is needed, just make sure they replace the filter.
Ps: I see your sig you want the modulo grill, iirc if your euro is post facelift, modulo grill might not fit without a whole preface lift bumper
Thanks for the heads up.
I'm now leaning towards stock MY12 grill and paint it black/body coloured.
Let me know if you know someone who has a stock grill for sale.
Only 7 left thats like 260 litres bought by ozhonda viewers, only 7 packs left get in fast! hahaha I cant believe they havnt corrected it yet. Mine arrived today didnt take long. I would buy more but somthing better might be around in 5 years I guess.
How many quart did you ended up getting?
its a fairly high pile, 48 :)
You guys sure the shipping won't involve y'all going to customs and spend another $300 to pick it up?
Ps: 48 quarts?!?!?!?!?! R O F L... That's like 9 oil changes, that's like 90000 km worth of services.... The shelf life on those synthetic oils are usually 5 years. you do the math.
dont rush into fully synthetics... 10k or 20k is fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by pitiek
yeah fred the 48 quarts is alot, i intend to change regularly ie 5 thousand kms (a bit of a waste yeah but at this price it doesnt really matter haha). And im punting on the fact that oil rarely goes off. Apparently it goes milky when this happens (over time water can absorb through container). It can last 15 years and longer without an issue. Im working on around 5 years supply.
I just purchased another lot of 12 quart redline.. It should cover me for the next two/three years..
Now I'm confused...
Is it ok to start using synthetic on my 10k service which is due in July?
People scared of switching because they are afraid it would go into old seals etc and leak.
A farking new car has not old gaskets to leak from....
USDM Euros come with 0w-20 synthetic oil from factory/dealer new.
Arrived in 10 days... Impressive stuff from Amazon..
http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/...k/IMG_1839.jpg
http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/...k/IMG_1840.jpg
http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/...k/IMG_1841.jpg
Impressive
Nice stuff, but just checking though.
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=2&pcid=21
Isn't that close to rrp anyway?
Not here.
Expect to pay $23 per quart.
http://gllubricants.com/index.php?p=...line-Pricelist
What's the manual say to use in the CU2?
oil grades?Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBen
for australia it's"
0w30
5w30
10w30
0w40
5w40
10w40
nothing thicker iirc
Guys it's still available on amazon, $9 shipping.
Just ordered 12 quartz.
Super price for a great oil. Thanks for the link. I just bought 24quartz for my CU2 euro....will be asking the service centre to change my oil at the 1000km checkup.
1000km maybe a bit too early for full synth, don't ya think?Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroGraphite
Any reason for that?Quote:
Originally Posted by ChaosMaster
Not much really. Would have thought a thicker oil would have been better, especially one the engine has been designed with, would be better for the engine to run in with. Especially since the engine has only done 1000km and has barely run in. There was a better reason which I was told a while ago, can't remember though, just recall switching to Full Synthetic after 20k km.
Been wondering when to switch to synthetic for new cars so I've done some research on this topic... According to some sources ( http://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/...ics/myths.aspx) new engines dont require the same degree of 'break-in' as those in the past. The honda RDX actually has synthetic as FF as well, as with my previous car, the IS250.
The K24 wasn't "designed" with Honda FEO, the USDM Acura's run a synthetic 0w-20 from factory.Quote:
Originally Posted by ChaosMaster
The only reason was that synthetic oil, due to its better protection properties may extend the 'break-in" period of the car,
Considering how little breakin cars require these days I doubt it'd matter that much.
Are these full synthetic?
not just full synthetic, group 5 full syntheticQuote:
Originally Posted by m3ntAL_l2
Thanks man for the heads up on this ! Just ordered now. Was tempted to order 24 q but i dont do that many kays lol.
Seems like there are lot of knowledgeable dudes here.. any suggestion on what to get for auto tranny oil at a decent price? Will be replacing that as well coming up next service.
Bobistheoilguy.com seems to believe Amsoil Multi vehicle ATF or redline d4 ATF are superior to Honda OEM.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudy
Else you could ask if the local dealer stocks the 'new' (over 1yo now). ATF-dw1.
Still though, is there any advantage of grabbing these over Mobil 1? Mobil 1 is cheaper during sales (20% off supercheap occurs quite often).
Mobil 1 is either group 3 or4 ( depend on which grade you get.)Quote:
Originally Posted by ChaosMaster
This redline is about $11-$11.50 per liter, Still cheaper than m1 even with the 20% off.
You beat me to it Freedops..!!
Have you changed your oil to the RL 5w30 yet pitiek?
Not yet..
My 10k service is due in July, I will do it then.
I had my warranty extended when I purchased my CU2 and one of the condition was I need to get my car serviced by the same dealer which doesn't really bother me.
I assume they won't deny warranty if I ask them to put Redline instead of the crappy Honda FEO.
My redline oil has just arrived! Less than a week to be delivered to my door...impressive!
I called up my local honda service center and asked about changing my oil at the 1000km mark. He sounded surprised (even more so when I also said I wanted to change the oil filter, and providing my own oil) but said it wouldn't be a problem at all. At my current rate of km's, I will schedule my service for next weekend.
I am not expecting a huge difference in performance this time round, and a Group 5 synthetic is definitely overkill in a mildly driven honda euro. But considering this oil is costing the about the same as the standard honda feo, it won't sting the pocket too much. :) Will report back once its done!
On a slightly different note, the Redline oil is not API certified. Although it meets all the performance requirements, RL has a higher concentration of ZDDP (Zinc Dialkyl-Dithio-Phosphate) than permitted. The API standards have decreased the permitted amount of ZDDP in recent years (2004), which has been a problem with some cars.Quote:
Phosphorus (a component of ZDDP - Zinc Dialkyl-Dithio-Phosphate) is the key component for valve train protection in an engine and 1600ppm (parts per million) used to be the standard for phosphorus in engine oil. In 1996 the EPA forced that to be dropped to 800ppm and then more recently (2004?) to 400ppm - a quarter of the original spec. Valvetrains and their components are not especially cheap to replace and this drop in phosphorus content has been a problem for many engines (especially those with flat-tappet type cams). So why was the level dropped? Money. Next to lead, it's the second most destructive substance to shove through a catalytic converter. The US government mandated a 150,000 mile liftime on catalytic converters and the quickest way to do that was to drop phosphorous levels and bugger the valvetrain problem. Literally.
In the US, Mobil 1 originally came out with the 0W40 as a 'European Formula' as it was always above 1000 ppm. This initially got them out of the 1996 800ppm jam and knowledgeable consumers sought it out for obvious reasons. Their 15W50 has also maintained a very high level of phosphorus and all of the extended life Mobil synthetics now have at least 1000ppm. How do they get away with this? They're not classified as energy/fuel conserving oils and thus do not interfere with the precious government CAFE (corporate average fuel economy) ratings. (See my section on the EPA and fuel economy in the Fuel and Engine Bible for more info on this). This also means that they don't get the coveted ratings of other oils but they do protect your valvetrain. The same rule of thumb is true for racing oils like Royal Purple - because they're not classified as energy / fuel conserving, it would seem they still contain good quantities of ZDDP.
In fact, as a general rule-of-thumb, staying away from XX-30 oils and going to 10W-40 or higher might be the way to go if you have an older engine. 10W-40 and above is generally also not considered to be 'gas saving' and like the Mobil example above, doesn't mess with the CAFE rating.
If you live in England, Castrol market a product with ZDDP in the product description - 'Castrol Classic Oil With ZDDP Anti-Wear Additive' although it's not mainstream enough to be available everywhere. You'll have to find a specialist dealer. Castrol Classics. In the US, Rislone manufacture an oil supplement to boost the ZDDP content of your existing oil. Rislone Engine Oil Supplement.
Read more: http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_b...#ixzz1rou9uIqW
For the whole article, which is a very good read, try here: http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html
Now you know.... :)
Almost forgot...in my CU2 accord euro manual, it says:
Further it says:Quote:
Recommended Engine Oil
Oil is a major contributor to your engine's performance and longevity. Always use a premium-grade detergent oil. It is highly recommended that you use genuine Honda Motor OIl in your vehicle for as long as you own it.
Redline oil meets the requirements for API service SN, which is 2 grades higher than SL...Quote:
Always use an API service SL or higher grade fuel-efficient oil. This oil is formulated to help your engine use less fuel.
Higher content of Zinc over time will clog the cat converters and sometimes the oxygen sensors.
lol just read the thread. Someone mentioned oil will go off; oil is hygroscopic it does not absorb water at all. It's brake fluid that does. Fair call that it doesn't hurt to upgrade to a better oil but calling OEM spec 5w30 FEO oil crap is just outright stupid. I've seen cars with near on 300k come in for services and exhibit excellent running order like the day it left the showroom. It's a reason why Honda specifies to use Honda Motor Oil whenever possible. For those thinking you'll get some sort of 'performance' gain; you'll definitely feel a placebo effect. I proved this point (with a Toyota) going from Semi-syn fluid to fully synthetic on the same dyno, the difference was 1wkw.
Forgot to mention I work for Honda Spare Parts.
^^^ if Honda tells you to use FEO the why the hell are most dealers using castrol magnetec for?!Quote:
Originally Posted by AE092
It's not water absorption, it's oxidation, it's the absorption of oxygen (which Dino based oils tend to do very readily). Making the oils much less stable.
I know for a fact our euros were not designed with the 5/10w-30 FEO in mind... Because Asia-pacific markets are the only markets who uses the Dino FEO as OEM fill, everywhere else (Honda EU and USA, recommands a synthetic fill on their user manuals, or the honda 2.2 dtec diesels DEMAND a full synthetic oil?)
Honda Australia tells you to use FEO to get your money...
Case in point: If Honda FEO is so great why did thy come up with FEO ultra (synethetic) themselves?!
If Honda FEO dino is so great why did Honda themselves specify they will be using a *Synthetic* oil (of xw-20 weight) for their future "Earthdreams" engines?
On www.bobistheoilguy.com there atr many oil test results and see for yourself the difference.
Ps: Honda FEO isn't "crap" outright.... It's just crap for the price y'all trying to charge for it. That's all. And with the 1wkw difference is actually quite impressive. That the same amount of power that the Hondata intake manifold heat gasket will give you. I'd say that a bloody good value performance mod.
How you think oil will 'absorb' air through an air tight bottle is beyond me.
The fully synthetic option Honda brought out is/was for their performance based engines. Think FN2R/FD2R/DC5R/S2000 - The Accord Euro is not a 'performance' engine but feel free to make reference to guys putting them in EG/EK's.
You also like to take things out perspective, I didn't say FEO oil was great/good - I said its OEM spec oil thats designed to last and it's proven that. Would I run my OEM Toyota oil in my car? No, I track/circuit work alot so obviously I'd use a better oil.
1wkw 'gain' can be from anything; temperature/day/air density. Obviously you knew that.
Are.you.serious?!? Do you have any idea what happens to the oil chemical composition during use?!Quote:
Originally Posted by AE092
That apart. A conventional oil have a 2 year shelf life, synthetic have a 5 year. So yes, shit happens even when it's in a sealed fukin bottle.
Once again, are.you.serious?! You sell honda parts so obviously you know ALL the cars you mentioned apart from the s2k uses the K-series engineQuote:
The fully synthetic option Honda brought out is/was for their performance based engines. Think FN2R/FD2R/DC5R/S2000 - The Accord Euro is not a 'performance' engine but feel free to make reference to guys putting them in EG/EK's.
The k24 used in the euro makes same power as th FN2R... While having significant more torque. So what's this non performance bs?! If Honda wants a non-performance engine they would've used the R-series SOHC like the south east Asian market accords.
Last time I checked the k24a had the same tolerance level as the k20a (of course they are, it's the same friggin design)
The FEO is designed for that stupid 6mth 10k km service schedule Honda Australia shove to owners. So no, it doesn't even have a decent drain interval.Quote:
You also like to take things out perspective, I didn't say FEO oil was great/good - I said its OEM spec oil thats designed to last and it's proven that. Would I run my OEM Toyota oil in my car? No, I track/circuit work alot so obviously I'd use a better oil.
Do you are saying your dyno comparison is invalid?Quote:
1wkw 'gain' can be from anything; temperature/day/air density. Obviously you knew that.
Wow, you like getting angry don't you! Erm, yes I do know the S2000 use an F20C engine. Also you didn't mention oil during usage, the assumption was that it was kept in a bottle..
I pointed out I did a dyno comparison but you still didn't pick that there was environmental variances making the findings non-plausible. I even mentioned that in the above and you still couldn't pick it. That's ok, get angry cause I can finally use these!
http://whitsblog.com/wp-content/uplo...U-mad-bro-.jpg
http://i0.kym-cdn.com/photos/images/...jpg?1260647699
LOL
Quote:
Originally Posted by AE092
Who.the.**** compares oil in an unopened bottle?!
Oh **** it it's like talking to a Honda salesma...
Oh wait..
http://i0.kym-cdn.com/entries/icons/...4/facepalm.jpg
http://i691.photobucket.com/albums/v.../cant-read.jpg
Erm yeh... I did say I work in Spare Parts - I actually don't sell cars...
http://i0.kym-cdn.com/photos/images/...jpg?1260647699
The same people who try's to sell a door actuator for $160 when it's only $60 shipped from the states. You lot are probably worse than car salespeople.Quote:
Originally Posted by AE092
As such.
http://captionsearch.com/pix/thumb/pijobf4e8h-t.jpg
Though I'm sure you realise parts interpreters aren't actually the ones that place a price on the parts.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredoops
As Symphorced said: I don't enforce prices. Where Sales-people push for sales and accrue commission, I don't so whether you buy here or from the 'US is just fine by me. For the record, I'm trolling you just to make you angry and get you Gee'd up lol
Just a couple of questions.Quote:
Originally Posted by AE092
Do you know what the advantages of synthetic over dino oils are? or do you believe the synthetic will provide no advantage whatsoever? Performance means more than just rwkw, but you knew that right?
Just curious, but what is the purpose of stating that you work at Honda Spare parts ? Does that give you more authority? More than, say, someone who has a degree in engineering?
lol....so now you're saying u were trying to sound dumb?? i call bs. You tried to sound like u know shit but Fredoops spanked ur arse! lololQuote:
Originally Posted by AE092
Spank my arse? Go ahead, if that's the thing your into! From my first post I already put it out there it was 1wkw difference but he didn't even pick it lol and nor did I ever say I have more authority, just the mere fact that Honda oil isn't as bad as "wombat piss". I use an average branded oil but wouldn't knock OEM oil to the extent of calling it crap, that 20 Civic/Legend/Prelude ect you see tomorrow is probably using it :)
The cost is justified because apparently you get extra service when you buy locally, like extra lip service.lol.
Those 20 Honda's are more likely to be using Castrol Magnetec than your precious Honda FEO.Quote:
Originally Posted by AE092
You know better what Honda dealers ACTUALLY use (them big-ass barrels with CASTROL written on it)
I maintain my stance, comparing a group 2 dino oil with group 5 synthetic, the group 2 does not compare.
I didn't pick your point of 1wkw because this is your understanding of "Oxidation".
that's pretty much /thread there... it's like talking Shakespeare to a sheep.Quote:
Originally Posted by AE092
oh then there's this:
You work at Honda Parts..... I hope to power that maybe you know there IS a shelf life on engine oils. 2-3 years dino and 5 years synthetic in general. oil may not absorb water (I still puzzled by how the hell you managed to link "go off" and w.a.t.e.r. together, but then again you think oxidation means oxygen in the sealed bottle). Anyhow the oil does NOT hold it's technical specifications indefinitely, then there's the issues of stability of all the addictive in the oil.Quote:
Originally Posted by AE092
But hey, since you work at parts, you should ALREADY know this. No?
And please. When normal people talk about oil, we're talking oil performance IN the engine, not how friggin pretty or airtight the stupid bottle is. And if you think you know better than engine builders in terms of power benefits of synthetic oil, thats fine, just don't expect us to believe you.
AE092, just wondering - how long have you been a mechanic for?
Closing the thread since it has degenerated into a *hit fight.