Civic EK1 build

Hey guys,
I bought my EK CXI about 9 months ago and looked into the possibilty of it being a project car. With the amount of money I made at the time, it wasn't that feasible (and I wasn't willing) to do everything I wanted to do to it. I ended up buying a Nissan Skyline GTS-T. After 4 months I totalled the GTS-T doing some late night driving when I was 2 days off selling the civic. I've sold the GTS-T as a wreck and due to now having a full time job, have the money to focus on the civic as a project.

Here's a video and some photos of it before I started modification.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HlA2m...3&feature=plcp

http://26.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lp...4wojo1_500.jpg
http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lp...4wojo1_500.jpg
http://29.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lp...4wojo1_500.jpg

I have since removed the rear wing and installed Skunk2 Pro S II coilovers and had a scrape on the front right bar fixed.

I have ordered a JDM B18C and now need to acquire all other parts like gearbox, wiring loom, mounts, ecu, throttle cable, fuel return line, air intake filter and piping, and axles.

This is what it looks like at the moment.

http://24.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lz...4wojo1_500.jpg
http://www.tumblr.com/photo/1280/fai...vcw2doI1qk4woj
http://www.tumblr.com/photo/1280/fai...vcw2doI1qk4woj
http://www.tumblr.com/photo/1280/fai...vcw2doI1qk4woj
http://www.tumblr.com/photo/1280/fai...vcw2doI1qk4woj

Ordered these headlights

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/ODAwWDgwMA...Nw!~~60_12.JPG

Ordered new front grill

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/$(KGrHqIOKj!...GST!~~0_12.JPG

Will also be painting the silver parts on the wheels black or looking for new 16" wheels. 17's buckle too easily.

Also don't know if I want to change the number plate to a random one.

not bad mate.

imo would change tail light back to stock mirrors back to stock or spoon ones
wheels get some nice works wheels
remove lip kit and get a type r one.
and just tidy it up abit

yep if i did the lip kit myself i would choose something different, but I don't dislike it enough to get a different one.

i would like to take the tail lights to ek9 but it's all money, and yeah type r kit i would love.

Cxi brake won't hold up your B18C. You need to upgrade the brake soon as you put the B18C in, choose careful.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by FAITHLESS

yep if i did the lip kit myself i would choose something different, but I don't dislike it enough to get a different one.

i would like to take the tail lights to ek9 but it's all money, and yeah type r kit i would love.

---

You dont have to get the EK9 ones.Any facelift ones will do and saves you paying the jdm premium

ye man got those lights they look mad.

good choice

same grille aswell. needs a coat of gloss black onto though

i know brakes need to be changed and am looking for some type r integra ones. forgot to mention that :)
yeah the ek9 lights are a while down the track. i just hate the orange indicators on anything pre ek9. atm i'm happy with what i have.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by FAITHLESS

i know brakes need to be changed and am looking for some type r integra ones. forgot to mention that :)
yeah the ek9 lights are a while down the track. i just hate the orange indicators on anything pre ek9. atm i'm happy with what i have.

---

Auto Racing Technik offer me a Dc2r/Ek9 brake package for $660. I don't know is that cheap.

xeno, $660 sounds decent. are you looking to swap engines? because a brake swap is not really necessary otherwise.

Got my b18c today.

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...64526631_n.jpg

One of the bearings on the timing belt wheel for the water pump is a bit out, but apart from that I can't find a fault at this point in time.
Realised I definitely need a new clutch, water pump, thermostat, spark plugs and obviously all piping.
want to paint the head cover before the swap also.
does anyone know if removing the header cover affects performance? because it looks terrible.

you should also changed crank cam rear main seals, rocker cover gasket and gromets (since your painting the rc), timing belt and tensioner at the very least. while the motors out be cheaper and easier

congrats on motor, how much did you pick it up for?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by FAITHLESS

does anyone know if removing the header cover affects performance? because it looks terrible.

---

agreed. I removed mine. I don't think its really there to serve much purpose other than prevent you from touching the even hotter bit... but I could easily be wrong.

Ok thanks yes I will do all of those things. Want to make sure this is a build with the least possibility of anything going wrong.
Picked up the b18c for 1550

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by FAITHLESS

xeno, $660 sounds decent. are you looking to swap engines? because a brake swap is not really necessary otherwise.

Got my b18c today.

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...64526631_n.jpg

One of the bearings on the timing belt wheel for the water pump is a bit out, but apart from that I can't find a fault at this point in time.
Realised I definitely need a new clutch, water pump, thermostat, spark plugs and obviously all piping.
want to paint the head cover before the swap also.
does anyone know if removing the header cover affects performance? because it looks terrible.

---

I bought the car already got the engine swap and gli brake conversion done, but I find the gli brake not good enough. Currently getting Rx7 4 pistons cailpers with 282mm rotors conversion done.

Just looking at your engine rock cover, Are you sure you got the B18c, not the B18c2. If you don't know how to check it let me know.

The dealer said it was a jdm b18c. What is the visual difference between the two?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by FAITHLESS

The dealer said it was a jdm b18c. What is the visual difference between the two?

---

B18C is Type R Engine Power: 200 hp (150 kW) @ 8000 rpm, the RC is Red colour and B18C2 Power: 168 hp (125 kW) @ 7600 rpm, the RC is Black colour

Have look at the link below

http://kereta.info/honda-vtec-b-seri...b16b-b18c-b20/

type r engine was b18c5 or b18cr (or type r). my engine is 132.39 kw jdm b18c which often does get confused with the jdm b18c type r. i don't believe it is a b18c2.

Identification: Black valve cover with dual runner intake manifold
Red Line: 8200 rpm
Rev-Limit: 8484 rpm- 8550 rpm (*For some only, most newer model SIR/SIR-G cut off at 8254 rpm)
Power: 132.39 kW (180 PS; 178 bhp) @ 7200 rpm & 128 lb·ft (174 N·m) @ 6200 rpm
Displacement: 1,797 cc (109.7 cu in)
Compression: 10.6:1
Bore: 81 mm (3.2 in)
Stroke: 87.2 mm (3.4 in)
ECU code: P72
VTEC Engagement @ 4500 rpm
Transmission S80 (with optional LSD)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by FAITHLESS

type r engine was b18c5 or b18cr (or type r). my engine is 132.39 kw jdm b18c which often does get confused with the jdm b18c type r. i don't believe it is a b18c2.

Identification: Black valve cover with dual runner intake manifold
Red Line: 8200 rpm
Rev-Limit: 8484 rpm- 8550 rpm (*For some only, most newer model SIR/SIR-G cut off at 8254 rpm)
Power: 132.39 kW (180 PS; 178 bhp) @ 7200 rpm & 128 lb·ft (174 N·m) @ 6200 rpm
Displacement: 1,797 cc (109.7 cu in)
Compression: 10.6:1
Bore: 81 mm (3.2 in)
Stroke: 87.2 mm (3.4 in)
ECU code: P72
VTEC Engagement @ 4500 rpm
Transmission S80 (with optional LSD)

---

Do you know where to look at the engine number? What Number written on it?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by xeno

B18C is Type R Engine Power: 200 hp (150 kW) @ 8000 rpm, the RC is Red colour and B18C2 Power: 168 hp (125 kW) @ 7600 rpm, the RC is Black colour

Have look at the link below

http://kereta.info/honda-vtec-b-seri...b16b-b18c-b20/

---

any jdm b18c is stamp B18C. Whether its a type R, SiR or GSR.

the number just refers to the location.

B18C5 is a USMD Type R
B18C6 is a UKMD Type R
B18C7 is a AUMD Type R
B18C2, B18C1 and B18C4 is all VTiR/GSR motors

I had a quick look when I got it off the truck but I'll have to check again as I didn't see the engine number.

Thanks for the info.

I also need to find out what OBD this engine is. The dealer said he thought it was OBD2 but i need to be sure.

Easy way to tell, check the distributor - 2 plugs = OBD1, 1 plug = OBD2. Also Alternator plug if it's round OBD1, square OBD2.

Should also have the year stamped on the head, something like (9|4) = 1994

thanks dorikin

Judging by the intake manifold thats a b18c2. Out of an integra vti-r. Just saying.

It's already been explained. In Japan that don't have the "2" suffix, so it's just B18C for both Type-R and SiR (SiR = VTi-R in Australia).

Therefore his motor is a 132kw B18C out of a JDM Integra SiR

there is no sir integra in australia..

he has a b18c2 engine..

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by void-

there is no sir integra in australia..

he has a b18c2 engine..

---

i dont even...

its a ****in JDM B18C. in terms of performance it's in between the audm c2 and c7

your awesome charliebrown you neg me? he didnt even give the engine number you flamin hairdresser

ahhah dayum got done good

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by void-

your awesome charliebrown you neg me? he didnt even give the engine number you flamin hairdresser

---

if he didnt state the engine number, then why did you assume its a c2?

the OP was 'told' it was a jdm b18c and people are trying to tell him its a b18c2 thinking B18C is only the type r motor. its obviously a VTiR/SiR motor.

IMO you deserve the neg point..... IMO

it's definitely a JDM B18C with 132.39 KW. The stamp says B18C. It was imported from japan as far as i know from what the dealer told me.

its japanese b18c,almost same as aussie b18c2,can see manifold same

Did the headlight conversion today.

Before:
http://www.tumblr.com/photo/1280/fai...fzp8s561qk4woj

After:
http://www.tumblr.com/photo/1280/fai...fzp8s561qk4woj

Just need to adjust the headlight angle now. It's pointing upwards instead of down.

Nice one.Can you take a pic without reflection,kinda hard to see


ps. I want to smash those sidemirrors with a rolling pin justsayin

yep i'll wait till daylight tomorrow.

i totally sympathise dude. i'm considering just repainting them black, carbon fibre spoon side mirrors, or just cheap black stockies.
2 things make me furious every time i look at this car. the wheels and the mirrors.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by FAITHLESS

thanks dorikin
the year model of the engine is 93, obd1 and i'm assuming it has more k's than the dealer claimed (between 69-90,000)
this being because i checked the spark plugs and they are fairly black. could possibly be running a bit rich but could also be worn valve guides, worn rings or bottom end damage
http://26.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lz...4wojo1_500.jpg

considering doing a full rebuild :S
on the bright side it might be a good chance to install aftermarket cams, valve springs and forged pistons

---

spark plug looks perfect to me.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by EKVTIR-T

Nice one.Can you take a pic without reflection,kinda hard to see


ps. I want to smash those sidemirrors with a rolling pin justsayin

---

I'm left handed, which side you want?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Bludger

spark plug looks perfect to me.

---

probably right.

painted rims yesterday.

http://www.tumblr.com/photo/1280/fai...2vmQhKU1qk4woj

http://www.tumblr.com/photo/1280/fai...2vmQhKU1qk4woj

sooo happy to get rid of the chrome.

also ordered stock black side mirrors for $55!

for EKVTIR-T, these are the headlights with less reflection

http://www.tumblr.com/photo/1280/fai...2vmQhKU1qk4woj

tumblr keeps turning my images sideways :S

Wow you saved those wheels dude.

Looks alot naicer

now u just need oem sideskirts.. type r f+r lip, spoon side mirrors and wing and your set!

slap a k20a in it problem solved.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Chriskoss

now u just need oem sideskirts.. type r f+r lip, spoon side mirrors and wing and your set!

---

change your rear lights aswell

i had that same rear lip. your rear bars gonna need a respray when you take it off. reason ? it sits higher then a normal ctr rear lip so when you remove it youll have 2 shades of black. and that black shit they use to stick body kits on

i'm doing the engine conversion after installing stock side mirrors. basically all my money is going into that at the moment.
i do plan to make it alot cleaner, but after the conversion. performance is my main priority right now :)
so over the rice
but yes rear lights and oem skirts are the next cosmetic mods on the list.

The mirrors and the tail-lights are horrendous, but other than that, it's fine cosmetically. The wheels look much better, and those headlights should be mandatory on any EK.

ITBS and slam the slut

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by FAITHLESS

yep i'll wait till daylight tomorrow.

i totally sympathise dude. i'm considering just repainting them black, carbon fibre spoon side mirrors, or just cheap black stockies.
2 things make me furious every time i look at this car. the wheels and the mirrors.

---

Nice ! looks like another ek ready to hit the streets,i have black stock mirrors painted exact same color as yours.. power mirrors. Let me know if your keen

If you were in Vic. I'd give you some oem tails for free just so I could sacrifice those altezzas

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by nikolaz01

Nice ! looks like another ek ready to hit the streets,i have black stock mirrors painted exact same color as yours.. power mirrors. Let me know if your keen

---

I've already ordered new black side mirrors so thanks but no thanks :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by EKVTIR-T

If you were in Vic. I'd give you some oem tails for free just so I could sacrifice those altezzas

---

haha wanna swap? I'll pay postage ;)

Ok so it's been a month and I've made some progress on this build.

Visual:

I've removed the shitty chrome mirrors to replace with spoon rep carbon fibre ones.

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._2086504_n.jpg

One mistake I make occasionally is jumping into a purchase without reading the entire description. I ended up with one new OEM left side mirror instead of two :o

New front grille as well as 5000k HID's

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...46538463_n.jpg

I have a Type R rear lip to replace the current one.

Searching for some stock tail lights so if anyone has some and is willing to sell and post (and has a good trade rating) please send me a PM.

Repainted and cleaned up the B18C as well as a mugen rep oil cap.

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...55918567_n.jpg

So this is what the car looks like now:
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...17177786_n.jpg
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...67867122_n.jpg
http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...66262803_n.jpg
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...56700461_n.jpg


Handling:

Cusco strut brace. Made a huge difference to the front end. Now I can feel the rear end flexing.

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...42600298_n.jpg

Ultra Racing rear strut bar next on the list for handling as well as hardrace bushings, hardrace front camber kit, ASR subframe brace, hardrace LCA's and OEM rear sway bar.


Engine swap:

After contacting alot of wreckers and being told they didn't have the parts or that they would call back (but never did) I finally managed to find pretty much all the parts I needed with Honbits.

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...75136936_n.jpg

For air intake I went with the Injen B16A CAI.

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...67399459_n.jpg

The wiring loom is from a D16Y8 and this is where it starts to worry me a little. The engine I have is OBD1. I have an OBD2 wiring loom and ECU. There were a few connections that won't wire straight up so I've been given a conversion harness. I will need to run a seperate wire to the knock sensor as the D16Y8 doesn't have one. Hopefully it will be as simple as that but it does scare me a little. If anyone has done something like this before I'd be very interested to hear about it.

So I now have the engine, gearbox, axles, P72 ecu, wiring, mounts, starter motor, shift linkage, ignition, air intake, new timing belt and tensioner, new crank rear main seal, new spark plugs, new oil filter.

The only major purchase left is the clutch. I'm looking at this stage 2 clutch and 12lbs flywheel kit from Competition. I've heard good things regarding longevity of use and response. The price is also good.

http://i463.photobucket.com/albums/q.../CK-8026-2.jpg

So right now just learning as much as possible about the swap. Mainly wiring related. Planning on beginning before the end of next month ;)

Nice to see some updates man. Those mirrors look great compared to the evil chrome ones

Nice bits

you'll need to wire in knock sensor as well as IAB, VTPS, O2 sensor.

and the different plugs between OBD1 - OBD2 engine are injectors, distributor, alternator,

Read up buddy, this link is pretty useful http://www.civiclife.net/board/topic...in-a-obd2-car/

Thanks guys.
That link is going to help so much.

Big change of plans. The wiring for an OBD1 engine to OBD2B loom to OBD2A ECU was really getting the best of me. Thanks to dorikin and ECU-MAN for helping me out here. I spliced OBD1 connectors on to my D16Y8 loom but then realised something that I had read and I guess I'd been trying to ignore for a while. Pre facelift EK's and EJ's (1996-98) have a 1 piece loom design that follows through the firewall. Post facelift EK's and EM1's (1999-00) have a 2 piece loom design. The two are incompatible. I can't use my D16Y8 loom. Very stupid of me.
I considered using my D16Y4 loom but that's OBD2B so I would need to rewire it at the ECU (ECU is OBD2A), or buy a conversion harness for OBD2B to OBD2A. Even that might not work due to the P2K ECU currently in my car having such a strange design which I believe is incompatible with other OBD2B ECU's without rewiring. And then theres the injector problem because of the DPFI injector wiring in the D16Y4.

It's a mess. So I've decided to get an EG and do the swap into that. It will be MUCH simpler with an OBD1 B18C2 loom and OBD1 P72 ECU. I was looking for a reliable daily anyway, and that's exactly what I have with the EK1. It's just a very riced daily now though :(
PM me if you have an EG with clean paint and body work you want to sell :D

Anyway, I now have the stage 2 Competition cluth and 12lbs flywheel but didn't have the bolts for pressure plate or flywheel. Honda themselves could only find 7 out of 8 flywheel bolts in the country LOL. I can get the last one through back order or a wrecker but it's frustrating not being able to get this clutch and gearbox on. For you guys in large cities, it's pretty easy to go get parts you need. For me, everything needs to be posted. The flywheel bolts seem to need a special socket size. 17mm is the closest I have that fits but there's too much play for the amount of torque I'll be applying.

i do hope you gave the previous owner hell for those wheels...

ODG!

LHD headlights plus 5000k HIDs, Please do not drive behind or in the opposite direction of me!!

Surprisingly never been high beamed by people. 5000k isn't very bright. At least not from inside the car.

interesting, perhaps you did a good job pointing them really low :D

but on a different note good job on the mirrors, the chrome one made my eyes hurt hahahaha

looking good!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by faithless

big change of plans. The wiring for an obd1 engine to obd2b loom to obd2a ecu was really getting the best of me. Thanks to dorikin and ecu-man for helping me out here. I spliced obd1 connectors on to my d16y8 loom but then realised something that i had read and i guess i'd been trying to ignore for a while. Pre facelift ek's and ej's (1996-98) have a 1 piece loom design that follows through the firewall. Post facelift ek's and em1's (1999-00) have a 2 piece loom design. The two are incompatible. I can't use my d16y8 loom. Very stupid of me.
I considered using my d16y4 loom but that's obd2b so i would need to rewire it at the ecu (ecu is obd2a), or buy a conversion harness for obd2b to obd2a. Even that might not work due to the p2k ecu currently in my car having such a strange design which i believe is incompatible with other obd2b ecu's without rewiring. And then theres the injector problem because of the dpfi injector wiring in the d16y4.

It's a mess. So i've decided to get an eg and do the swap into that. It will be much simpler with an obd1 b18c2 loom and obd1 p72 ecu. I was looking for a reliable daily anyway, and that's exactly what i have with the ek1. It's just a very riced daily now though :(
pm me if you have an eg with clean paint and body work you want to sell :d

anyway, i now have the stage 2 competition cluth and 12lbs flywheel but didn't have the bolts for pressure plate or flywheel. Honda themselves could only find 7 out of 8 flywheel bolts in the country lol. I can get the last one through back order or a wrecker but it's frustrating not being able to get this clutch and gearbox on. For you guys in large cities, it's pretty easy to go get parts you need. For me, everything needs to be posted. The flywheel bolts seem to need a special socket size. 17mm is the closest i have that fits but there's too much play for the amount of torque i'll be applying.

---

no eg, must use ek pay the extra dorra!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Boznian

no eg, must use ek pay the extra dorra!

---

not about dorra

i got my CC clutch kit form the usa for 180 including shipping when is brisbane could not even get one from repco ect ect for under 290 trade price and seems to be a good clutch

Yeah pretty crazy ay. I checked it out at repco and autobarn. Way overpriced. Was $600 or so for an exedy not heavy duty and without flywheel at autobarn

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by FAITHLESS

Yeah pretty crazy ay. I checked it out at repco and autobarn. Way overpriced. Was $600 or so for an exedy not heavy duty and without flywheel at autobarn

---

shift performance exedy clutch 400 for dc5r so for ek maybe cheqper

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by butterfingers

shift performance exedy clutch 400 for dc5r so for ek maybe cheqper

---

nothing to do with ek. vti-r dc2 clutch.
i've seen exedy clutches cheaper in other places, but i'm happy with competition. we'll see how good it is when i get this engine in an eg.

Fml just found out my tranny is from a b18b. Wrecker didn't even let me know.

doesnt that irritate the flying ****k out of you?

yep now i have a good engine with a shit gearbox. wtf.

been out of action.

nice updates

it's time to give up.

all parts are in the parts for sale thread.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by FAITHLESS

it's time to give up.

all parts are in the parts for sale thread.

---

don't give up bro!

dafuq, wasn't even a long process.

why give up so easily?

I really should have bought a half cut. It's so hard piecing things together when you live so far away from them. I've lost a lot of money and am selling everything at a loss.

Misread the receipt when I was skimming over it.

post pics of GB please.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Bludger

post pics of GB please.

---

just checked the code on the gearbox. It's a Y80. I thought B18C7 had S80 tranny.
Pics will be up soon.

s80

N3E
LSD

stamped in black,.

wtf. not lsd. bar through diff.

http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg809...pg&res=landing

http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg521...pg&res=landing