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Hey Guys and Gals,
Looking to do an engine swap from my 92 EG.
It currently has a D13B2 in it and I'm looking at purchasing a D16Y5.
The D13 is Carby and the D16 is OBD-2 MPFI.
I'm wanting to know how hard this conversion will be from a carby to a mpfi.
Also what do I need to complete the conversion.
P.S. I have already searched around and read up on it but I wanted to put my own questions out there.
Thanks,
Quote:
Originally Posted by Karlbee92
OK, I expect some that have never been asked before.
Hard.Quote:
Originally Posted by Karlbee92
This is not a new question. This has been answered before. Please try harder.Quote:
Originally Posted by Karlbee92
You'll find all you info here. http://www.google.com.au/search?hl=e...c+carby+to+efi
OK. Nothing new here. It's been done one zillion times already, both locally and in just about every country in world.Quote:
Originally Posted by Karlbee92
So it's a Breeze. The 'economy EG' Honda released in the early 90s to counter claims their cars were too expensive for the average consumer. Not many highlights but the chassis is still OK. A reasonable starting point.Quote:
Originally Posted by Karlbee92
My first question is "Why a D16Y5 OBD-II" engine? Has someone given you one for nothing? It's the only reason I can think of for using it.
My advice would be to stick to the SOHC VTEC D16Y1 OBD-I engine. Not too hard to find, and reasonably simple to transplant.
You will need - - -
engine and (preferably) gearbox (better ratios 2nd & 3rdin the D16Y1 box). I'm assuming your car is manual - it it's auto then that's a whole new ball game which begs the question "Why bother?"
EFI setup - fuel pump, tank, hoses
ECU P28 (auto or manual - conversion is simple from auto to manual)
Wiring - easy to just use complete D16Y1 loom to enable VTEC etc
Cluster - with tacho
That's for starters - you'll also need some manuals, lots of patience and some experience with a soldering iron, a spanner, and an engine hoist.
Good luck.
Peter
(Been there - done that a few times now)
Thanks for the response :DQuote:
Originally Posted by jdm_b16a
I'm getting the Y5 because it's going to cost me $500 for the engine, gearbox, ecu, wiring harness and engine mounts.
The D16Y5 is the VTEC-E verson engine. It's a detuned D series, built for economy motoring.Quote:
Originally Posted by Karlbee92
D16Y5
VTEC-E
Found in :
1996–2000 Honda Civic VTI
Displacement : 1,590 cc (97 cu in)
Bore and Stroke : 75 × 90 mm (3.0 × 3.5 in)
Power : 127 hp (94.7 kW, 129 ps) at 5,800 rpm
Torque :111 lb·ft (? kg/m, ? Nm) at ??? rpm
Valvetrain : SOHC VTEC-E(4 valves per cylinder)
Fuel Control : OBD-2 MPFI
Head Code : P2J
ECU Code : P2N
Piston Code : P2MY
I cannot think of one good reason why anyone would want to spend all that money and time installing this engine, especially when you can pickup a D16Y1 for half that.
That's just my opinion of course.
What are you hoping to achieve by doing this tranpslant (seriously) - drivability, economy, EFI reliability, power???
Peter
I can't really find any others for any cheaper.Quote:
Originally Posted by jdm_b16a
I'm looking for an upgrade from the D13 (which is why I was actually considering getting the D16Y5) because it's still more powerful. Where in NSW am I able to pick up decent price engines?
Keep an eye out when they come up for sale right here on this forum.
lol phuc dat for $500 you could purchase a B20B8 engine+B18B gearbox
if ur in sydney i can point you in the right direction
Where abouts can I find that?Quote:
Originally Posted by GSi_PSi
pm sentQuote:
Originally Posted by Karlbee92
All well and good but just keep in mind you're looking at upwards to $1K for engineering certificate, plus emissions and noise testing here in NSW. Some engineers charge even more.Quote:
Originally Posted by GSi_PSi
This is because of the increase in power over your original engine. A leap from 1300cc to 2 Litres and a heavier engine (in the B20B) will also require a brake upgrade (at the front at least).
You're also looking at $300-$500 for custom engine mounts to convert the B20B to the D engine bay.
Not sure of the wiring situation, but probably require an auto electrician to wire it up (maybe - depends on how knowlegeable and handy you are)
Peter
PM sent
if u were in WA, there is a d16a8 turbo for sale for $500, fix the valve seal and you are good for 200fwhp.
it was posted yesterday, shouldnt be that hard to find.
true about the engine certificate, the engine mounts are the same as B16a-b18c-b18b mounts so provided you do a lil search can be had for as little as $150 for themQuote:
Originally Posted by jdm_b16a
the wiring is no different to a B18c swap, using EG5 loom, will need to use a OBD1 gsi ecu if you dont want any CEL when it looks for the vtec..
I also recently helped out a mate with his car cause he wanted to rego his B18C swap in carby eg. having an increase in capacity for a 1.3L eg to installing a B18C is allowed
as it goes on the largest engine coming out for that model of car, so 1.6L is the largest engine so the B18C can be done with no engineering no hassles.
So instead of a B20B8, the op might be better off with a B18A/B engine. certainly will give a B16 swap a run for its money provided you mate it to a good gearbox.
OBD2 and OBD1 chassis' aren't compatible without alot of work. At the very least go for an OBD1 B16A swap. You will not be able to use the OBD2 loom from the D16Y5 due to the one piece design integrating through the engine bay to the ecu.
IMO it's alot of work for a pretty average engine.