Oil usage

Hey, I have a 94 Sedan with a d16y1, about 220Km's.

It's using a lot of oil, im guessing about a litre of oil for each tank of fuel.
It's defuinitely not leaking, i have double checked this, it must be burning it as there is black soot over the back of my car, and smokes on hard accelerating.
The oil im using is penrite 20w60.
On startup it splutters a bit of black stuff onto the driveway.


I originally thought it was the rings, but tested the compression and all 4 were 180 psi.

I was then told it could be the valve stem seals, is there a way of checking this? Could it be anything else?

sounds like wear and tear. valve stems are going gone by the sound of things

A compression test will not always show that the oil control rings have worn excessively. If you get your mechanic to carry out a leak down test you should be able to check both oil control rings & valve stem seals.

valve stem seals would be much cheaper them rings to fix wouldnt it, because you can do it without removing the head? how much am i roughly looking at for either one?

Where are you located?

It is to hard to say how much it will cost without stripping down and inspecting. I would recommend removing the cylinder head & getting it sent off for crack & pressure testing and a reface while you get the valve stem seals done. In regards to rings, the block MAY require some machining depending on the condition of it, but at the very least, the cylinders will require honing and I would replace bearings as well.

Depending on what you plan on doing with the car, it will probably end up cheaper to look into a 2nd hand D16Y1 or upgrading to a B or K series (depending on budget)

Im in brisbane, and i thought about b16/18 swap but i estimated around 4k, (is this correct)
i thought that if it was just seals it would be alot cheaper.
I didnt think it was that wrecked because the engine still runs great, doesnt seem sluggish or anything.

Do you think its needed to remove the head? coud it be that the seals are the majority of the problem? or would that be rare?

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Originally Posted by caljones

Do you think its needed to remove the head? coud it be that the seals are the majority of the problem? or would that be rare?

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by stndrd

It is to hard to say how much it will cost without stripping down and inspecting. I

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this.

yeah yeah sure, i guess ill take it into someone local and see.

Cheers.

To do a decent b series swap you will be looking at around 4k as you said (that includes new t/belt kit, fuel pump & clutch)

It is highly recommended that you remove the head to do valve stem seals. I would be having a chat to an engine builder before you do much more

id set aside 5 for an engine swap always better to be prepared for unforeseeable circumstances. b18 into my ek came up to 5

Buy a bottle of stop leak and pour it in your engine oil - if it stops the smoking (gradually), then you know it's the seals. Cheap temp fix I guess. Otherwise, not recommended but a cap of brake fluid would do the same. You didn't hear it from me.

Peace.

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Originally Posted by caljones

Hey, I have a 94 Sedan with a d16y1, about 220Km's.

It's using a lot of oil, im guessing about a litre of oil for each tank of fuel.
It's defuinitely not leaking, i have double checked this, it must be burning it as there is black soot over the back of my car, and smokes on hard accelerating.
The oil im using is penrite 20w60.
On startup it splutters a bit of black stuff onto the driveway.


I originally thought it was the rings, but tested the compression and all 4 were 180 psi.

I was then told it could be the valve stem seals, is there a way of checking this? Could it be anything else?

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Dry compression would not tell if oil rings are bad. what you should do is to pour a lil bit of oil in each cylinder. if the compression goes up. that's mean oil ring are bad if they stay the same than the seals are bad.
Honda from what i know they use 1 oil ring and 2 compression ring, so possibly oil rings are cracked, broken... Just do wet compression again.
Note: after you finish the wet compression it's gonna smoke hell a lot for 10-15min

I know my car uses about half a litre of oil over a few months of usage... and it's very old... Mine mostly smokes on startup, so I'm fairly sure it's valve guide seals... I got quoted $320~ for it or $600~ for it and sump gasket.. but that is tasmania prices, and awesome mechanic.. so yeah... (by awesome I mean one who isn't honda dealer.. and only charges like $77 an hour)

I'd be doing the valve guide seals anyway... car is old, probably worth doing...

Mine never smokes on startup, so does that mean the stem seals are good?...

It still burns half a litre every 1000km but I guess that's what a h22a does.. some like to drink lots of oil.
....and I'm using Honda oil with 270,000 on the odometer.

Any suggestions on what else to do at 300,000km timing belt change?

Engine still pulls strong and fuel consumption is good...it has been pretty much the same for the last 100,000km

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hmetro24

Dry compression would not tell if oil rings are bad. what you should do is to pour a lil bit of oil in each cylinder. if the compression goes up. that's mean oil ring are bad if they stay the same than the seals are bad.
Honda from what i know they use 1 oil ring and 2 compression ring, so possibly oil rings are cracked, broken... Just do wet compression again.
Note: after you finish the wet compression it's gonna smoke hell a lot for 10-15min

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Do this even if all cylinders read 180 psi?
(this is the correct pressure ive read.)

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Originally Posted by migoreng

Mine never smokes on startup, so does that mean the stem seals are good?...

It still burns half a litre every 1000km but I guess that's what a h22a does.. some like to drink lots of oil.
....and I'm using Honda oil with 270,000 on the odometer.

Any suggestions on what else to do at 300,000km timing belt change?

Engine still pulls strong and fuel consumption is good...it has been pretty much the same for the last 100,000km

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that's prettyfkingood

Quote:

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Originally Posted by caljones

Do this even if all cylinders read 180 psi?
(this is the correct pressure ive read.)

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yes even if all cylinders read 180psi \Dry compression
if it read higher than 180psi with wet compression than its oil ring

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hmetro24

Note: after you finish the wet compression it's gonna smoke hell a lot for 10-15min

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or you can crank the engine over and spit the oil back out the spark plug holes.