Dodgy Sound Deadening your doors

Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!

This by no means is the best way to do it its just the way i know how to.

Aim: Deaden the doors

Required:
Dynamat
3mm Mdf (protective glasses and dust mask to wear while cutting the mdf)
Wax and grease remover
Roller
Rags
Razor
Waterproof tape
Jigsaw
Cardboard
Spray paint



Notes for applying dynamat
- Make sure the surface is cleanned with wax and grease remover so the dynamat sticks well
- Once its stuck on it wont be comming off easily so line up the sheet before you apply
- Avoid getting air pockets, if you do get some cut a slit to let the air pocket out
- Becareful of the edges of the dynamat, its quiet sharp and can cut you easily if you rub against it without gloves.
Additional notes thanks to RAD


Steps 1: Preping the door

Start by removing the door panel so you see what your working with, im doing this on a ek civic but you can follow the same principal for other cars.

http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...2/IMAG0150.jpg

Once you have the door panel off the fun begings, you need to remove the plastic weather shield by just pulling it off and then you need to clean the glue off, cleanning the glue is a messy task so i didnt get pictures as my hands were covered in it.

You start by scraping up the excess glue, i just use bits of cut up plastic packets to scrape it up.
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...2/IMAG0169.jpg

Once you have most of it cleanned off just use wax and grease remover on a rag to wipe off the rest of it. Now that the outer skin is cleanned wipe down the inner skin with wax and grease remover aswell and then your door is preped.
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...2/IMAG0153.jpg

Step 2: Covering inner skin

Cut sections of dynamat that you can fit through the service hole and start applying, i dont pull the backing off the dynamat untill its inside the door ready to place otherwise i tend to get it stuck to the service holes or itself when i try and feed it through. Once i have the backing off i stick an edge down and roller my way along evenly so the sheet goes on nice and flat.

http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...IMAG0190-1.jpg

I covered the inner skin in 1 layer completely and then put a second layer behind the driver. you can get away with using alot less but i prefer to over do things rather than not do enough. http://www.dynamat.com/faqs_faqs.html#text3082anc

Step 3: Covering service holes

First we make templates, get some cardboard and cut it to a size just bigger than the service hole and jam it through.
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...2/IMAG0185.jpg

Hold it up against the back of the service hole and trace around
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...2/IMAG0186.jpg

Once you have done that cut out the cardboard and trace onto your 3mm mdf
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...2/IMAG0188.jpg

Repeat for your other service holes, you will usually have one service hole for each door that has metal rods going through it so you can either leave that hole open or cut your mdf to fit as close as possible to it. Sometimes you will also have wires for power windows ect coming through a service hole so just pull them to the corner of the hole and trace around them so the mdf cutout will allow space for them.

Once they are all traced put your mask on and cut your mdf then give it a spray of paint to help waterproof it.
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...2/IMAG0203.jpg

Now you have your cutouts ready you can cover the service holes, i put multiple strips of tape on the service hole to cover it and help keep water off the mdf(top right service hole in pic) Then you just put the mdf cutout over the tape and tape the outline to hold it inplace.(bottem service hole in pic)
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...2/IMAG0204.jpg

Repeat for the other service holes, dont get any tape on the metal rods as they need to move to lock/open your door.

Step 4: Covering outer skin

This is the easy part, i cover the service holes, where the driver mounts and any little holes in the outer skin, ek has plenty of little holes so i just covered most of the outer skin. I used a roller first then used the handle of a screwdriver to rub the dynamat into all the corners
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...2/IMAG0205.jpg
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...2/IMAG0211.jpg


Now thats done you can chuck a dynaxorb pad behind the driver(Thanks to Trism for recommending this)

http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...2/IMAG0197.jpg

And mount all 6.5 inchs of focal goodness

http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...IMAG0272-1.jpg

Then put the door panel back on and Welcome Abourd dodgy sound deadened doors.
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...IMAG0274-1.jpg

great write up

and

good pic coverage

+ rep

http://fringebowlteamblog.com/images...p_clap_gif.gif

how many kg of dynamat all up?
i wonder how effective they are compared to oem sound deadening

I cannot rep you again yet.

But this is good.

You will be rep'd at a later date MF.

Got damn. Awesome stuff as usual

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mocchi

http://fringebowlteamblog.com/images...p_clap_gif.gif

how many kg of dynamat all up?
i wonder how effective they are compared to oem sound deadening

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For the doors i used about 3 sheets from a bulk pack for each door plus mdf and tape, each sheet is about 1 kg according to my scales so would be about 3-4kg a door.

If your worried about adding weight you can just dynamat the inner skin in 25-50% coverage focusing on behind the woofer then just cover the service holes in tape and mdf. would greatly reduce the dynamat used for each door. I was not concerned with weight so just used heaps of it lol.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lilthug

great write up

and

good pic coverage

+ rep

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by dougie_504

I cannot rep you again yet.

But this is good.

You will be rep'd at a later date MF.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by trism

Got damn. Awesome stuff as usual

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Thanks lads:thumbsup:

Will this reduce any road noise on those long country trips?

Not really. This is more to create a solid enclosure for the speakers.

To reduce road noise, you need to put something like http://dynamat.com/technical_specs_dynapad.html

Under the carpet.

great write up

rep tbm captures

This will come in handy one day...

negged

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sensei_

Will this reduce any road noise on those long country trips?

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As Trism has said, deadening the doors is mainly for the speakers, if your trying to reduce road noise you can use the dynapad hes recommended and you can also deaden the wheel archs with brush on deadener, ive deadened the archs on my car and it helped alot.
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...2/IMAG0155.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TbM

As Trism has said, deadening the doors is mainly for the speakers, if your trying to reduce road noise you can use the dynapad hes recommended and you can also deaden the wheel archs with brush on deadener, ive deadened the archs on my car and it helped alot.
[IMG]http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j480/tbmindustrys2/IMAG0155.jpg

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Thanks alot for your insight. May consider a full sound proofing of the wheel arches, trunk, doors, and maybe even the headliner. Depending on how much time/finance i have

repped! How much did it end up costing you?

great work!!

I've always been meaning to ask - wtf is that gluey shit, and what's that piece of plastic for?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by androo

repped! How much did it end up costing you?

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hard to say as i bought a bulk pack of dynamat and used the left over to do the roof and boot ect. the bulk pack was about 220 delivered and i used 6 out of the 9 sheets on the doors, i used more than you need to and also have a 2 door civic so the doors are larger than average so you can get away with using less. they have door kits which cost less and is enough to do most doors.

The 3mm mdf and the other bits and piecies are cheap and i had alot of them lying around anyway so dunno how much they cost.

dynaxorb pads were about $40 iirc

Wow
How much did you spend on dynamats?

Edit: my bad didnt see the post above me

Im guessing you got from amazon us??

Quote:

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Originally Posted by curtis265

great work!!

I've always been meaning to ask - wtf is that gluey shit, and what's that piece of plastic for?

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I have no idea what that glue stuff is called but it is one of the most annoying substances i have ever worked with, sticks to everything and is just ****ing annoying lol, as far as im aware its just there to hold the plastic weather shield in place.

As far as im aware that piece of plastic is there to keep the water from getting in to the interior, your window seals will often leak a bit so if its not there you can get water coming in through your door trim.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by manonastick

Wow
How much did you spend on dynamats?

Edit: my bad didnt see the post above me

Im guessing you got from amazon us??

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i got it from elite electronics but i needed it in a rush so you can find cheaper places in the US if you can wait.
Ive used 1 bulk pack so far and im thinking ill get another one to do the floor and boot some more as i used more on the doors than i thought i would. Also looking into getting dynapad to cover the floor.

did ur dynamat come with a roller? or u brought that separate?

i search everywer in melbourne for that fkn roller and no place has it, wat a fkn joke, i had to use a screw driver instead.

A good idea would be to use contact on the mdf?

http://directlyyours.com/shop_image/...79c4baf75f.jpg

do up both sides then use that water proof tape on the edges.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by honda_zivic

did ur dynamat come with a roller? or u brought that separate?

i search everywer in melbourne for that fkn roller and no place has it, wat a fkn joke, i had to use a screw driver instead.

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i bought my roller, think its a stinger one. some of the dynamat packs on ebay come with a roller.

IIRC ive read you can get a roller from hardware stores, its not a proper one one but will do the same job.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ericl33

A good idea would be to use contact on the mdf?

http://directlyyours.com/shop_image/...79c4baf75f.jpg

do up both sides then use that water proof tape on the edges.

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yeh i suppose you could use that, i doubt it would actualy seal the mdf tho.

i like putting a layer of waterproof tape on the service hole to cover it so no water can come through, then paint the mdf and place it over the top of the covered service hole even if the tape leaks a bit and the mdf gets a bit wet you shouldnt have a problem if you have given it a decent coat of paint.

Nice write up mate, but it ain't that dodgy! A few times i've cut out MDF panels to cover service holes in the doors, but for anyone that's concearned about the wood swelling, teflon chopping boards work well too.

A couple of additional thing i'll add;

- The roller is only good for getting the sheet laid out over the panel. I preferred to use a cheap trim removal tool (the kind you buy in a set at SuperCheap) and drag it across the sheet, it helps to press as much of the sheet to the panel.

- Use a knife to cut slits in your sheets, air pockets won't stick.

- More is not always better, and you don't "need" to 100% cover the panel. You get to a certain point where, the more you add, the less effective the extra sheets become.

- I don't remember the honda's, but if you really want to do a "dodgy" job, you can glue the trusion bar to the door skin. By factory, many cars are glued trusion bar to skin, but over time the glue dries and comes off. You can use Sikaflex, or dodgy clear silicone for the join. This effectively turns one easy to vibrate panel into two smaller, harder to vibrate panels (if this makes sense).

Thanks for the extra info RAD, im just a diy'er so dunno the best way to do things lol.

I forgot to mention cutting slits to let air pockets out ill update the diy when i get a chance, thanks for that.

I did mention you can use less dynamat i just like to overdo things :)

My trusion bars were attached quite well to the panel so i let them be, the braces on my roof were a bit loose tho so i sikaflexed them to the roof skin while i was dynamatting the roof.

http://d1204.hizliresim.com/w/3/423u5.gif

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TbM

As Trism has said, deadening the doors is mainly for the speakers, if your trying to reduce road noise you can use the dynapad hes recommended and you can also deaden the wheel archs with brush on deadener, ive deadened the archs on my car and it helped alot.
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...2/IMAG0155.jpg

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What's that stuff and where can we get it? CL9 has plastic arches though, would that matter?

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Originally Posted by ChaosMaster

What's that stuff and where can we get it? CL9 has plastic arches though, would that matter?

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Its called brush on body deadener and i got it from supercheap auto, was about $30 for a tin i think
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...IMAG0006-1.jpg


Mine has plastic there too, you just take the arch cover off and there should be metal there, i only did the rear part of the front arch as the rest of the arch is in the enginebay so no need to reduce road noise in your engine bay, i fully coated the rear arches.
Heres a pic to show the arch liner after ive put it back over the deadened arch.
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...2/IMAG0263.jpg

ohh, you did the front as well....

front wheel arch isn't directly joined to interior though....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ericl33

ohh, you did the front as well....

front wheel arch isn't directly joined to interior though....

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not sure about that, on the ek it looks like it gets pretty close towards the bottem rear of the front arch so i just gave it a couple of coats, had plenty of deadener and dont care about adding weight so thought why not. Sounds like its made a difference to the road noise from the front tyres.

Very impressive DIY here. The amount of photos really helps those who want to try it :thumbsup:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TbM

not sure about that, on the ek it looks like it gets pretty close towards the bottem rear of the front arch so i just gave it a couple of coats, had plenty of deadener and dont care about adding weight so thought why not. Sounds like its made a difference to the road noise from the front tyres.

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actually, i maybe mistaken.

sorry, so just deaden the parts that are in contact with interior....?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ericl33

actually, i maybe mistaken.

sorry, so just deaden the parts that are in contact with interior....?

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Im not 100% sure either was pretty tired when i was doing it lol, did seem pretty close iirc. even if its not connected i probably would of done it anyway cause i tend to over do things.

Yeh as far as im aware the main parts to do are the ones that are incontact with the interior, i fully did the rear arch and just the rear half of the front arch
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...2/IMAG0159.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EKVTIR-T

Very impressive DIY here. The amount of photos really helps those who want to try it :thumbsup:

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Thanks block :)

Dont forget to use a dust mask while cutting MDF, dont want that cancer yo.

what's so bad about mdf?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ericl33

what's so bad about mdf?

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The sawdust is carcinogenic,due to the glue used

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EKVTIR-T

The sawdust is carcinogenic,due to the glue used

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did not know, I've breathed a fair bit of it already....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ericl33

what's so bad about mdf?

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the dust is carcinogenic, yeah from the glue.

can i just hold my cheast and not breath?

IV73CI returns ^

wrong thread?

The new Bludger more like it

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Originally Posted by EG52NV

The new Bludger more like it

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there is only 1.

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Originally Posted by grifty

Dont forget to use a dust mask while cutting MDF, dont want that cancer yo.

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good point, ill add it to the diy thanks for that, i never wear one but if your worried about those things its a good idea to use them.

How did you make the speaker rings? Do you have any draws?

That could help me!!

Take a piece of cardboard, and trace the shape needed. Transfer template onto MDF/plywood and your set. Use a jigsaw/router for best results.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sam98

How did you make the speaker rings? Do you have any draws?

That could help me!!

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I just bought some 1 inch thick spacers for 6.5inch speakers, i suck at cutting spacers so was just easier for me to buy some and cut the edges off to fit under the door panel rather than making my own.

You can follow what Sensei_ has posted if you want to make them yourself or you can try supercheap/autobahn/repco ect if you want to buy some, mine were only about $10-$15 iirc.

+ rep to you Sensei_

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TbM

Its called brush on body deadener and i got it from supercheap auto, was about $30 for a tin i think
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...IMAG0006-1.jpg


Mine has plastic there too, you just take the arch cover off and there should be metal there, i only did the rear part of the front arch as the rest of the arch is in the enginebay so no need to reduce road noise in your engine bay, i fully coated the rear arches.
Heres a pic to show the arch liner after ive put it back over the deadened arch.
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...2/IMAG0263.jpg

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Sweet, thanks. If only I could rep you some more.

Awesome DIY, and to be honest, that is more a more comprehensive job than I have seen come out of some 'professional' car audio stores.

I'm about to do exactly this to my EP3 as I have a heap of gear to install in it. Just curious as to your thoughts on the Dynaxorb pads, is there a noticeable difference? The guys in the UK seem to go crazy for them, but I haven't seen them used here before now. I have a feeling that my side intrusion beam might get in the way of these, so I was considering just wrapping the beam in a layer of Dynamat and doing the inner and outer skins in the same way that you have.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by -JC-

Awesome DIY, and to be honest, that is more a more comprehensive job than I have seen come out of some 'professional' car audio stores.

I'm about to do exactly this to my EP3 as I have a heap of gear to install in it. Just curious as to your thoughts on the Dynaxorb pads, is there a noticeable difference? The guys in the UK seem to go crazy for them, but I haven't seen them used here before now. I have a feeling that my side intrusion beam might get in the way of these, so I was considering just wrapping the beam in a layer of Dynamat and doing the inner and outer skins in the same way that you have.

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Thats why i dont let "professionals" work on my car lol.

This is the first time i have used the dynapads as they were recommended to me by trism, i installed it all at once with the dynamat so its hard to say what effect the dynapad has, but going from nothing to having dynamat and dynapad is a huge difference. They are quite cheap so if you want to get the best out of the speaker then might as well go for it.

with regards to the intrusion beam as far as im aware there is no need to wrap it as its a fairly solid bar so shouldnt resonate, if its not attached to the door skin well you can skiaflex it to the skin to give the skin more support, mine was still attached well so i didnt bother.

Too easy, thanks mate. I will see how I go when I pull the door trims off again. I had one off on the weekend to make a template for my spacers (which are being CNC cut this week sometime) and I noticed that the beam goes directly behind the speaker, so I was worried the Dynapad wouldn't fit directly behind the speaker, but I will have another look when I get into it proper.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by -JC-

Too easy, thanks mate. I will see how I go when I pull the door trims off again. I had one off on the weekend to make a template for my spacers (which are being CNC cut this week sometime) and I noticed that the beam goes directly behind the speaker, so I was worried the Dynapad wouldn't fit directly behind the speaker, but I will have another look when I get into it proper.

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Np, if the beam goes directly behind the speaker then you might be better off looking at eggshell foam, thats the other thing trism recommended i could use behind the speakers, you would be able to mould this around the intrusion bar and cover the area behind the driver.

THANK you!

Any tips on stopping water from getting though to speakers after applying dynamat? did you stick the plastic weather shield with the grotty sticky stuff back on top of your dynamat after dynamatting?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by simonhaha

Any tips on stopping water from getting though to speakers after applying dynamat? did you stick the plastic weather shield with the grotty sticky stuff back on top of your dynamat after dynamatting?

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I havent had a problem with rain getting to the back of the speaker, if your seals are rooted and leaking you could glue a peice of plastic inside the door above the speaker to block water from hitting the back of the speaker.

No i just covered the service holes in tape then mdf then dynamat which seals the door negating the need for the weathershield as you can see in the pic below.

http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...2/IMAG0211.jpg

Thanks mate, this really helped a lot. I just recieeved my bulk of dynamat today. Would this be enough to do my 2 front doors and boot lid?

and... would it be ok if i just stuck the dynamat straight over the service holes? Cant see myself using a electric saw cutting those MDF shapes

Cheers
Simon

not sure if sticking dynamat is advisable over service holes, but wont the dynamat "move" when you crank the speakers, and not create that "airtight" seal that you are after.

you dont even need to cut the holes to size/shape. just a small square piece and some bolts will do the job if you were that lazy :p

think tape is even easier than bolts :D

just that cutting wood is a pain the the buns. Dont wanna buy or go near an electric saw. Would cutting pieces off say a hard binder folder do the job? Its like semi cardboard/woodish.
and just dynamat over it?

ive seen people on youtube just lay dynamat right over the wholes without covering them, seems like TMB is doing more which seems right..

or any other alternatives? Thanks guys

wont tape rattle? but yes, alot easier than bolts

TbM - you know with your door cards what did u do to them to fit the mdf spacers with the speakers

Quote:

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Originally Posted by simonhaha

Thanks mate, this really helped a lot. I just recieeved my bulk of dynamat today. Would this be enough to do my 2 front doors and boot lid?

and... would it be ok if i just stuck the dynamat straight over the service holes? Cant see myself using a electric saw cutting those MDF shapes

Cheers
Simon

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yeh it should be plenty i did my doors and roof with a bulk pack.

just dynamat is better than nothing but you should use mdf.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by simonhaha

think tape is even easier than bolts :D

just that cutting wood is a pain the the buns. Dont wanna buy or go near an electric saw. Would cutting pieces off say a hard binder folder do the job? Its like semi cardboard/woodish.
and just dynamat over it?

ive seen people on youtube just lay dynamat right over the wholes without covering them, seems like TMB is doing more which seems right..

or any other alternatives? Thanks guys

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its 3mm mdf you can cut it with a hand saw easily if you dont have electric saw. you can use plastic but it would need to be thick enough to not flex.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sensei_

wont tape rattle? but yes, alot easier than bolts

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no, tape doesnt rattle

Quote:

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Originally Posted by blabla

TbM - you know with your door cards what did u do to them to fit the mdf spacers with the speakers

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cut them to fit around the spacer and trimmed the egdes off the top of the spacers.

i think i explained it in this thread
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...onda-Civic-Ek1

BlaBla i found this in my sent items i think it explains it more, if you need more info let me know, i didnt take alot of pics sorry as i just did it quickly to get my speakers mounted.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TbM

What ill do is cover the basics of how to install it then if you have any questions or if im not making something clear let me know and ill explain more.


I simply mounted a 6.5 inch x 1 inch mdf spacer to the door by countersinking 3 screws through the factory screw holes that hold the door trim around the speaker(those 3 screw holes around the speaker hole).

once that was mounted i cut the door plastic out so i could start test fitting, you need to cut out the section around the speaker so it will fit over the spacer.
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...2/IMAG0479.jpg

You just roughly cut it out then put the door trim back on the door and see if/where the spacer is hitting the door panel, if somethings hitting trim it off, i took the top edges off my spacers so i wouldnt have to cut off as much plastic. sorry for the poor pic but if you can see where the wood has been exposed on the spacer thats where ive cut it but once you line up your panel you will see where you need to cut.
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...2/IMAG0272.jpg

keep trimming untill your door panel fits back on then your done, first door took me a little bit but once you know how much you need to cut out the next is much quicker, i used a retractable razor blade to trim the door.


This should give you 75 ish mm depth to the window if i recall correctly, which should be enough to fit most speakers,

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Most people could skip on the diffuser as most wouldn't notice the difference. I'd say the Dynamat and sealing the doors to create a resonant chamber for increased midbass and overall frequency output integrity would make the biggest difference.

Also, the mounting and sealing of the speaker to the door through MDF should make a good difference.