b20 vs b18c stroker kit

Hey Guys,

Tax time is coming around, getting pretty excited what to do with the money that was stolen by the govt and now getting returned. (Im all for the tax system)

I been thinking about doing some work to my eg:

b20 build is cheap, and its oem

Saw a stroker kit for the b18c, it cost nearly as much as a b20 setup would set me back.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Brian-Cro...item27c72cbb9d

So the question is, Is the stroker worth while? I mean has anyone here done it?

What are the implications for it? Since i have her opened up should i do the head as well? (this may blow the budget out of wack) Taking a shot in the dark here, I'm guessing head work will be required, with a re tune of the hondata? Fuel system? New tbs? New headers?

I know all about the k20 and b20, i guess my question is for the stroker kit.

Current Setup:

B18c stock insides - major done recently while the gearbox was out.
4.7 FD wit LSD - rebuilt recently by FactoryGearbox with HD clutch
Injen CAI - cleaned and polished yesterday
ITR full exhaust system
5tud conversion
Tien Superstreets
Hondata - Professionally Tunned
dc2 control arms

I have gone thru google and this site.... there isnt much available on stroker kits. B20 on the other hand, enough information that i can do it at home (theres even a step by step guide WITH PICTURES)

Going for the poor mans k20, as k20 swap cost as much as a deposit on a house.

id say go with the stroker kit

I have never been exposed to a stroker kit, or a car that has been stroked (sounds so dirty)

What should i be expecting...more torque? Monster increase in hp?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ericl33

have you thought of d15b option?

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Troll?

My question i think is how reliable is the stroker kit?

LOLs what does d15b have to do with the two options of opinion on b20 or b18
im keen on this too.

hrmmmmm anyone here with a stroker?

my original plan was to go a k series. but when my engine blew i didnt have the fund so i went a b18cr
i could do the k series now but then that mean i wasted my time sanding and respraying my engine bay :(
so im looking at ways to to either get more milk out of the b18 or go a b20 bottom with b18 head.

B20 is much better

Stroker,gets a whole new internal refresh,still got crank girdle,its stealthy so looks oem from outside

Look at the high hp american b builds,they stroke the b18c not use b20...


http://www.importtuner.com/bseriessh...412it_bseries/

Quote:

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Originally Posted by amant02

I have never been exposed to a stroker kit, or a car that has been stroked (sounds so dirty)

What should i be expecting...more torque? Monster increase in hp?

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Stroker kits depending the amount of stroke they add, will add generally more torque across the rev range and modest power increase at most.

Its not that simple though cause increase stroke changes the characteristic of cars. Longer stroke usually means the engine isn't as erm 'responsive' due to the increase also may limit your redline due to mechanical forces straining the internals.

For Turbocharged car, it allows the engine to 'spool' a larger turbo quicker due to the increase exhaust gas being released.

A lot of generalisation, there will be exceptions of course however most of it stands correct in most cases.

yeh i seen heaps of builds from the states but we're in aust.
how reliable is it etc.

Gonna cost a lot more to stroke it anyway.

Just go d15b will be cheapest

What bout k26?

I say buy a b20 block, vtec conversion kit, new bearings, vrs kit..ect, arp b18c rod bolts and head studs, rs machine 84.5 type r pistons and rings.

Send your cylinder head, b20 block and your b18c crank to a machine shop and have the crank linished, block resurfaced and bored to suit new pistons and new pistons fitted to b18c rods.

When you get the block back reassemble engine with your new parts, i suggest buying an aftermarket girdle for the b20 main caps or reuse your b18c girdle on the b20 block but you will have to use the b18c main caps and get the machine shop to allign hone b18c main caps to the b20 block...do the cheaper option out of the two. This setup should give you a b20 with oem reliabilty

Also while your cylinder head is being serviced i would advise you ugrade your valvetrain to suit aggresive cams if you decide to upgrade later on.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gen2 CRX

I say buy a b20 block, vtec conversion kit, new bearings, vrs kit..ect, arp b18c rod bolts and head studs, rs machine 84.5 type r pistons and rings.

Send your cylinder head, b20 block and your b18c crank to a machine shop and have the crank linished, block resurfaced and bored to suit new pistons and new pistons fitted to b18c rods.

When you get the block back reassemble engine with your new parts, i suggest buying an aftermarket girdle for the b20 main caps or reuse your b18c girdle on the b20 block but you will have to use the b18c main caps and get the machine shop to allign hone b18c main caps to the b20 block...do the cheaper option out of the two. This setup should give you a b20 with oem reliabilty

Also while your cylinder head is being serviced i would advise you ugrade your valvetrain to suit aggresive cams if you decide to upgrade later on.

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Whats a gridle? When i google it its womens apparel?

i used to have b20... i loved it. go b20 :) cheaper!

Girdle is a brace which reinforces the main caps. The b18c is the only b series with a girdle. Search b18c girdle.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gen2 CRX

I say buy a b20 block, vtec conversion kit, new bearings, vrs kit..ect, arp b18c rod bolts and head studs, rs machine 84.5 type r pistons and rings.

Send your cylinder head, b20 block and your b18c crank to a machine shop and have the crank linished, block resurfaced and bored to suit new pistons and new pistons fitted to b18c rods.

When you get the block back reassemble engine with your new parts, i suggest buying an aftermarket girdle for the b20 main caps or reuse your b18c girdle on the b20 block but you will have to use the b18c main caps and get the machine shop to allign hone b18c main caps to the b20 block...do the cheaper option out of the two. This setup should give you a b20 with oem reliabilty

Also while your cylinder head is being serviced i would advise you ugrade your valvetrain to suit aggresive cams if you decide to upgrade later on.

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The girdle wont do shit, if your cylinder wall is not even rounded and constantly see's 8,000rpm on a hot day with no tune

the only thing unreliable about the b20 is the cylinder walls........in my experience some b20's have the edges slightly thinner than the whole circumference of the bore,
not sure if this is some bad batch of them but these are the ones that have detonated in my experience

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GSi_PSi

The girdle wont do shit, if your cylinder wall is not even rounded and constantly see's 8,000rpm on a hot day with no tune

the only thing unreliable about the b20 is the cylinder walls........in my experience some b20's have the edges slightly thinner than the whole circumference of the bore,
not sure if this is some bad batch of them but these are the ones that have detonated in my experience

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How can you say a girdle wont do shit when it is designed to stabilize the crankshaft at high rpm to stop the block from twisting which helps keep the cylinder walls straight. I think when you know a block has thin cylinder walls it would be nice to make sure they stay straight at 8000+rpm.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gen2 CRX

How can you say a girdle wont do shit when it is designed to stabilize the crankshaft at high rpm to stop the block from twisting which helps keep the cylinder walls straight. I think when you know a block has thin cylinder walls it would be nice to make sure they stay straight at 8000+rpm.

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I always thought that the block girdle was designed to keep the bearings at an even wear rate. Fair enough, the block girdle might help, but both b20s i seen blow up had
block girdles installed still ended up cracking a sleeve. I have photos of the bore on these b20's when they were built and from the pixels you can tell the bore is not evenly round
throughout.... the b20 i had installed in my integra had the bore evenly round and thick throughout the whole circumference, i guess honda is not perfect.

how can you say that bout Hondas F u lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GSi_PSi

I always thought that the block girdle was designed to keep the bearings at an even wear rate. Fair enough, the block girdle might help, but both b20s i seen blow up had
block girdles installed still ended up cracking a sleeve. I have photos of the bore on these b20's when they were built and from the pixels you can tell the bore is not evenly round
throughout.... the b20 i had installed in my integra had the bore evenly round and thick throughout the whole circumference, i guess honda is not perfect.

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If the cylinder walls on b20s are as bad as you say and the OP gets a B20 block with low kms and the cylinder walls are not really worn you can get away with std size pistons and just a hone so you can keep that extra .5mm of cylinder wall which is nothing really.

ive gone 85mm on mine haha with the stock sleeves
doesn't look that bad
http://img818.imageshack.us/img818/3076/img6746vc.jpg

phuc dat

what's wrong haha

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EKVTIR-T

phuc dat

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Isnt that a bit much?

should be ok just till i build the b18 block i have that will be sleeved and forged

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SLOBRO

ive gone 85mm on mine haha with the stock sleeves
doesn't look that bad
http://img818.imageshack.us/img818/3076/img6746vc.jpg

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i raise you with this

see how my cylinder walls are all even and thick?
and yours is dangerously thin at the top

which is why it has survived 50,000kms, over 9000 ! rpm

, 10,000kms of that being with no tune.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AWcglbj5sWMhttp://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._3215932_n.jpg

Can you imagine the heat at that thinnest point

:) .....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EKVTIR-T

Can you imagine the heat at that thinnest point

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yeah, especially considering there's no contact with the coolant there

Im leaning towards a b20 now, thanks for the input guys. Its cheaper, and i wont be keeping the car for any longer then 30000KM's and Ill hardly hit over 8500Rpms these days.

Final questions:

Is a re balance of a b20 setup really necessary? Or could i get away with it? (home job)

Is the girdle worth while? Or could i get away with it?

Ill be getting a re-tune before i hit vtec.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EKVTIR-T

Can you imagine the heat at that thinnest point

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I'm no expert on thermal dynamics, but I would think the heat would dissipate quickly.

can an expert please comment.

I am an expert, and the heat would dissipate real quicksmart no worries.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CivicEGSI

I am an expert, and the heat would dissipate real quicksmart no worries.

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Thank you CivicEGSI i'll make sure i have a very good cooling setup lol

destroke the b20:)

another good thing by stroking your b18 block you will save money on getting it engineered so a little less headache lol