[MY07] Accord Euro MY07 2008 Manual - Clutch slipping already! - help

Hi all,

I noticed recently that when going up a slight hill in 2nd or 3rd gear, when i put my foot down a little further on the gas to generate more acceleration, the car would suddenly start reving very high, it would go from 2000revs to 4000revs really quickly and yet i would not move any faster, then if i let go, the clutch seemed to pick up and then i could accelerate again.

So i took it straight to local Honda Service Center. They tested the car for me and said its clutch was slipping and needs replacing.

I cant belive it, the car is a Jan 2008 build. So its only 4.5yrs old. Thats rather early to need a clutch replacement i would have thought.

I was not hard on it either. Previous owner i purchased car from in 2010 was a doctor, it was a fleet car.

Anyway, the service guy said i could wait until it got worse before replacing it. As i had no issues on flat roads, it was just a bit awkward on some gradual steep hills.

They quoted me $2620 for parts and labor to replace the clutch + the fly wheel. Is that a good price?

Anyone else had any issues with the clutch on their Euros? This seemed really early for me to be replacing it...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jimoss

They quoted me $2620 for parts and labor to replace the clutch + the fly wheel. Is that a good price?

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http://images1.wikia.nocookie.net/__...com-357923.jpg

Go aftermarket, you could get exedy performance clutch thingy for less than Honda OEM (probably 1/2 what dealer quotes)

For flywheel, if you want more performance, this is the perfect time for you to upgrade your flywheel into a light weight one.

I believe a member here (Wuism) from WA has a Comptech lightened flywheel for the euro for sale.

PS: even if it's a company car, how long clutch lasts really depend on style of driving and maintanince

Age isn't really a factor to clutch wear, it's the km's travelled and driving style (much like motor oil). I don't see why you would want to change your flywheel though, I'ld think changing the clutch would be enough. A new flywheel would make it more responsive though (assuming your getting an aftermarket lightened one) otherwise there really isn't a point in changing it.

I agree with Freddy about getting a Exedy clutch though, especially if you want it to last you can grab a higher performance one. Do note though that the higher the performance rating, the higher the spring rate meaning you'll have a heavier clutch pedal. Not so good for city driving.

Afm yay!!!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ChaosMaster

I agree with Freddy about getting a Exedy clutch though, especially if you want it to last you can grab a higher performance one. Do note though that the higher the performance rating, the higher the spring rate meaning you'll have a heavier clutch pedal. Not so good for city driving.

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Thanks for your help Chaos!

I dont have a really good knowledge of cars in general, including my car - I know terrible huh?!? But I am trying to learn now.
I have reading the forums a bit, I believe my car needs a K20A2 compatible clutch (and if i need a new flywheel a K20A2-sized flywheel). Is this correct? It is a Accord Euro MY07 2008 model 2.4L 6sp manual.
EDIT: I searched http://clutchfinder.exedy.com.au/ and i believe i found my car. The: CL Euro CL9 4 cyl 2.4 K24A Petrol EFI 16 DOHC 2002 2007.

It recommended the HCK-7506 OEM Exedy Clutch OR the HCK-7506HD.
If my car is not modified at all, and i am not planning on modding it, is there any benefit of getting the HCK-7506HD?
What are the benefits? does it just mean the clutch will last longer. And i may get some better performance in terms of rev's?

Also i got a really really really really noob question. What is the difference between the CU2 and CL9 i see mentioned everywhere on the forum. Are these different classes of Honda Euro car models? What model is mine? and Whats the diff between CU2 and CL9?

Also where is a good place to get an Exedy clutch? Is it safe to source off Ebay? From what I have read on the forums, lots of people are purchasing them off ebay. Are there any good ebay sellers that anyone has delt with recently to source clutches and flywheels? Because most of the posts I could find were 2-4yrs old regarding ebay exedy clutches. Everyone seems to mention the name "gripforce US" an ebay us seller. Is this the guy: http://myworld.ebay.com.au/gripforce...id=p4340.l2559

Also are there any good auto parts online stores anyone can share with me?

I would like a good quality performance clutch, but I dont want one that is too stiff and that bites really low and doesnt engage easily, as I do quite a lot of city driving. I heard some people on the forums complaining about the high performance exedy clutches as being hard to bite and engage.

So maybe something inbetween oem exedy and performance exedy?

Also when speaking to Honda Service guy he said that sure if i get a lighter flywheel, then i will be able to get more rev's. Which can translate to better acceleration. But then he said often it will mean less torque, because heavier flywheels give you better momentum as something heavier is spinning around, so he said you may get less torque with a lighter flywheel. Plus lighter flywheels may not last as long and wont be as well built.
Is this true? And does a lighter flywheel make much of a performance improvement in the euro?
And will it make my fuel consumption significantly worse by gaining more rev's?

I am trying to weigh up the benefit of a lighter flywheel...

Also i have no idea on what different types of exedy clutches and flywheels you can get and what are the benefits of each type.


I found this one:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EXEDY-OE-...item256a43299f

Which is the:
KHC10 F54025FX model
* EXEDY OE CLUTCH KIT
* F1 CHROMOLY LIGHTWEIGHT FLYWHEEL
Says that it supports: 2003 - 2007 Honda Accord (2.4L 4cyl DOHC; K24)
Which i believe is what will work with my car?
For $302.00 USD + $241.41USD shipping - now i heard people got gripforce to do the shipping for $99USD instead of $200+USD... So i can try and get that deal too?

I have read in the forums that people didnt think much of the F1 flywheels though.... Not sure if i should go for this instead:
1) HCK1005 - EXEDY PREMIUM OEM CLUTCH PRO-KIT SET: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EXEDY-PRE...item5d31f61847
US $184.94

2) HF02 - EXEDY RACING NEW CHROMOLY FLYWHEEL RSX BASE L TYPE-S : http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EXEDY-RAC...item256b752368
US $260.20

= US $445.14 (not inc shipping).
So an extra US$143 to get the exedy flywheel with the OEM clutch

Note:

**** IT SAYS THIS the HCK1005 OEM clutch is a 5 Speed. but my car is a 6speed manual = ME CONFUSED. Wierd! ****

Does that mean my model exedy OEM clutch is this one?
* HCK1009 - EXEDY OE OEM CLUTCH PRO-KIT SET 2008-2010 HONDA ACCORD: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EXEDY-OE-...item5d30a1fee7
US $235.99

Im confused as the exedy website recommends i use HCK-7506

Ok, I'll try to make this simpler.

Only your Clutch is worn. OEM spec clutch is just that, a direct replacement. The HD is a heavy duty clutch, which basically means it has a higher spring rate. The reason for the higher spring rate is higher friction. Think like dragging a empty box, as compared to dragging a box with 10kg worth of stuff in it. There's more friction force. The only reason you would want the HD is if you've modified your engine significantly (or tyres) to the point where the friction between your OEM clutch and flywheel isn't enough. But this isn't the case as you haven't done anything to your car yet. So going HD clutch will only mean a heavier clutch pedal but no difference in real world performance.

With the flywheel. Your OEM one is fine, you don't need to change it. A lighter flywheel allows your engine to rev faster when there is no load on it. Basically means when your changing gear or in neutral, the lighter flywheel will make your car rev faster, making it feel much more responsive. It'll also loose revs faster as well, meaning if you change gears slowly, you'll miss the matching revs. A lighten flywheel will not make your engine produce more power, nor will you accelerate any faster. The reason manufacturers have weighted flywheels in the first place is for 2 reason. 1. So make the engine more livable. What I mean by this is that when you change gears, the revs drop slowly instead of dropping to 1k rpm in an instant and thus requiring you to heal toe to drive smoothly. 2. It smooths out the power pulses in each revolution using it's weight as momentum. A 4 cylinder only fires twice per rev, and without the flywheel, that would feel lumpy as.

My recommendation would be to just grab an OEM Clutch and be done with it. The OEM can handle slight increases in power as well, so if your getting CAI + Headers + ECU, and that's about it, it's more than enough. If you were going to add super sticky tyres (245+ extreme performance) on top of those mods and go racing (full throttle off the line etc) then I would grab a HD or even a racing clutch as they use ceramic which is a lot tougher.

Oh, and installation will cost you more than the clutch itself. Just a warning. If you are going to grab a flywheel, it's cheaper to get the flywheel done with the clutch together as taking the thing apart is a bitch (although putting it back in is a lot worse).

Thanks heaps mate.

I heard that Gripforce us on eBay is a great place to get the oem exedy clutch from.
But I'm still confused as the exedy clutch finder website recommends i use HCK-7506.

When I look on eBay USA they are selling a 2003-2007 accord 2.4l DOHC 4 cyd K24A oem exedy clutch but it's model number HCK-1005.

Is this because of the difference between exedy us and exedy australia?
Will that us one work on my Aussie accord euro? Because the engine specs look the same, but I am very worried that it says "5speed" when mine is a 6speed manual. I would think the clutch would still work with a six speed? Is that right because I thought only the gearbox and not the clutch would be different between a 5speed and 6speed.

Any help would be great, thanks guys!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ChaosMaster

My recommendation would be to just grab an OEM Clutch and be done with it. The OEM can handle slight increases in power as well, so if your getting CAI + Headers + ECU, and that's about it, it's more than enough. If you were going to add super sticky tyres (245+ extreme performance) on top of those mods and go racing (full throttle off the line etc) then I would grab a HD or even a racing clutch as they use ceramic which is a lot tougher.

Oh, and installation will cost you more than the clutch itself. Just a warning. If you are going to grab a flywheel, it's cheaper to get the flywheel done with the clutch together as taking the thing apart is a bitch (although putting it back in is a lot worse).

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Thanks mate. I do have 4 brand new Bridgestone adrenalin potenza re002 tires which are high rated I believe, but that is all so not worth the performance clutch then.

Also how much do you think I should need to pay for the labor on average not inc the parts?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jimoss

Thanks heaps mate.

I heard that Gripforce us on eBay is a great place to get the oem exedy clutch from.
But I'm still confused as the exedy clutch finder website recommends i use HCK-7506.

When I look on eBay USA they are selling a 2003-2007 accord 2.4l DOHC 4 cyd K24A oem exedy clutch but it's model number HCK-1005.

Is this because of the difference between exedy us and exedy australia?
Will that us one work on my Aussie accord euro? Because the engine specs look the same, but I am very worried that it says "5speed" when mine is a 6speed manual. I would think the clutch would still work with a six speed? Is that right because I thought only the gearbox and not the clutch would be different between a 5speed and 6speed.

Any help would be great, thanks guys!!

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I would be safe and go with what Exedy Aus is specifying. As you mentioned, the US had a different transmission, which means possibly a different size transmission housing. Normally, the number of gears don't matter, but the size does. E.g. K20 engines are meant to be only different in stroke and head, but their not. Even the clutch is different diameter.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jimoss

Thanks mate. I do have 4 brand new Bridgestone adrenalin potenza re002 tires which are high rated I believe, but that is all so not worth the performance clutch then.

Also how much do you think I should need to pay for the labor on average not inc the parts?

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If stickier tyres is all you got then OEM is fine. As I said, only if you had done all those engine mods + the tyres and a lot of race starts, then I would grab the performance clutch, otherwise, I wouldn't bother.

I'm not sure about the labor charge. Last time I changed a clutch, I paid $100 for labor, however I'm friends with the mechanic (when I said friends, we're actual friends and not the type people usually talk about just knowing). I also helped out with the change over. I'm guessing labor alone should be ~$300-$500 depending on the amount of time needed. Very rough estimate though.

Do change the spigot bearing as well at the same time... mine squeels once in a blue moon when you balance the clutch up a slope and the cause is the bearings. Change it when you change the clutch

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tron07

Do change the spigot bearing as well at the same time... mine squeels once in a blue moon when you balance the clutch up a slope and the cause is the bearings. Change it when you change the clutch

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Thanks for the tip. I will get that done at the same time.

A mechanic i spoke to also suggested that I change the rear engine mount while it is possible to get access to it (since im replacing the clutch). While these technically would only need to be changed after 120,000-200,000km mark from what i have heard, they tend to cost not too much $30-100. So do you think its worth replacing it at 70,000km? Or is it over kill?

Might as well if you are keeping the car.

Prevention better than cure

If you were to change the rear engine mounts, might as well change all of em.... then again the car being only less the 5 YO, the mounts should still be in good condition. if your car have no vibration in idle, cant really feel the engine, I dont see the point to change the mounts. I dont feel any vibration in my 06 CL9, so I dont see why your 08 built need to change mounts, my mileage is around 60+k, slightly less then yours.