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Hi Guys,
My 4WS is throwing a few tantrums. Checked the codes and its a 62. With a bit of research I think an ECU resolder is in order. Hopefully that will solve a few of the issues.
My problem is I have very little experience with soldering/removing old solder. I can take it out but I was wondering if anyone would like to earn a slab o' beer for doing the electrical side of it?
I live in Melbourne......please help!
Remove the 4WS all together, it's generally regarded as being a all around useless feature that causes more problems then what it's worth.
If you're keen on keeping it just youtube a how to solder video then go to Jaycar and get some simple bread board and some random cheap components and just keep soldering until you're confident.
Soldering is shit easy I picked that up back in year 8 in high school and I can still solder very neatly to this day.
Cheers, I guess if I screw it up I can always just keep it permanently off. Im trying to do a few motorkhanas but im not sure that the 4WS actually does much to help in the first place but wouldn't mind keeping it working....
It won't help a single bit for racing, it's all around considered useless - There's a reason why Honda dropped it all together.
well its not like it ever will make a difference to the speed around a track but at 30kmh and less maneuverability is what motorkhana is all about
Might be good to actually test it with and without the four wheel steering at the khana event.
I've not seen any straight up comparison but everywhere I read generally has the same consensus as not worth it.
Maybe while you're fixing it add in a switch to quickly turn it on and off and let us know the difference?
if you have a soldering iron do it yourself
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...4WS-ECU-Repair
Cheers ECUman, I found that via the search a little while ago. Dont know if I trust my solder skills but youtube has given me a few pointers. Just went and got myself all the kit needed to do the repair from radioparts tonight. Will see how it goes next weekend when I get some time to do a repair at home.
WRU, not sure if I will worry about a switch yet. Hand brake turns are the same whether the back wheels are turning or not so when I actually have a think about it there is no real point to fixing it anyway... haha
One week after a ECU resolder and no error codes.....fingers crossed I actually fixed the bugger.
Reflowed mine too and it works fine for around 5 minutes and then comes back on,i was like "yes it's working,oh darn lights back on!" must be a sensor.
At least i know the solder is good now,i have yet to read the code error.
what codes do you get. did you do the rear actuator sensor re learn procedure when you first staterd the car when you refit the 4WS ECU ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Irish R
You know what? As soon as I read your post my 4WS light started coming on again. ECU man, I recalibrated the ECU by doing that full left turn, right turn and repeat on starting up but not resetting the rear actuator. How does one actually do that? I was getting code 62, still am for that matter.
No mate,i'll get the code off it tomorrow,so many Gremlins at the moment just it is not an urgent one but an annoyance!Quote:
Originally Posted by ECU-MAN
First time i have heard of the rear actuator sensor.
Code 62 refeeres to either the rear actuator motor, 4WS Control Unit or wiring being at fault. I know you have resoldered your ECU, did you inspect all solder joints in the ECU, did you miss any. Did you happen to take any pics of the PCB when you finished relowing the dry joints. You problem may not be your ECU or it still could be.Quote:
Originally Posted by RussBurger
resetting the Rear actuator is a complex job. Im not goint to explain how to do it here but it involves
- a 4WS alighnment where the rear actuator must be locked using the honda lock tool during alighnment,
- Front Main Sterring angle sensor adjusted corectly
- Front Sub Steering angle sensor adjusted corectly
- rear sub steering angle sensor adjusted corectly
get any of the above 4 processes wrong and you will have a world of pain with the 4WS system.
Rear Actuator actually has two sensorsQuote:
Originally Posted by Irish R
Right, I think im just going to say bugger it. It does not seem to be worth the effort. I didn't take photos of the dry solder joints but I did all the ones on the controller PCB as well. I dont really want to waste any more money or time on it. Can you take it out with out running a 4WS light permanently on?Quote:
Originally Posted by ECU-MAN
^^I'm not prepared to spend any money or any more time mine either but i will chance a quote from Honda just to amuse myself.
When i had my 4WS unit out and drove it the light remained out on the dash.
Done similar with my my Pajero,the Super Select lights were giving me a headache with all the flashing,bulbs removed,it works fine,i'm happy no adverse effects on your vehicles driving just bloody sensors giving up..
dont disconect the ECU, leave it connected, remove the globe from the cluster. The ECU in fail safe mode should keep the rear rack in the straight ahead possition.
Im afraid it doesn't happen like that. When the fail safe mode comes on the electric motor disengages. The wheels are kept in a straight line using the resistance of two heavy duty springs. Only problem is if you catch a bump or channel in the road the car jerks (almost violently) to either side until the back wheel realign. Its one of the most scary things I have felt while driving. I'm looking for a locking pin to actually lock the rear actuator in place to prevent this but with a bit of research they say never to drive with them in....Quote:
Originally Posted by ECU-MAN
Im not sure what to do really....I want to either fix it or lock em with out spending tonnes of $$ chasing around the problem
Ok so I have a bit of an update. After thinking that my car was about to run off the road because of all this crazy wobbling going on I took my car to my mechanic. I got him to check out all the steering components after I put some new tie rod ends on myself. Turns out everything up front is all square, the back too mechanically. Just for good measure I got the whole thing realigned as well. Still no good, so I took it for a drive with a go pro2 looking at the back wheel steering angles while there was an error code....and...turns out the back wheels do move slighty causing the car to jerk to one side until it corrects. I can put the video up on youtube a bit later on.
I have now decided to let a pro do the resoldering of the relays in the 4WS unit to see if that corrects the problem permanently since last time I did it it lasted a week or so. Hopefully things will be a touch better once I get it back.
Another update.... I just got my ECU repaired by a professional. Chucked it back in the car, error light came on again after start up which made me a little disappointed. Woke up the next day drove to work and no more error light since! Hopefully it works for a longer time than when I repaired it.
did you do the learn procedure on first start up ?
Yeah I did the procedure. Since last week the error happens on and off. Some days fine, other days on the whole time.