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Whats the best way to test them apart from visual inspection?
I attacked mine with a multimeter today and noted the following ressistances.
Cyl# Ressistance (Ohms)
1 10.75
2 10.20
3 7.81
4 6.70
Time to change the leads? (they've been on there for AGES!)
yup
ive got a set of honda leads ;) hit me up
LOL@Weq
I was wondering what the values should be roughly. I'm assuming the difference in values is because cylinder #1 is the furthest away and #4 the closest to the dizzy. ?
yep the longer the lead the higher the resistence.
your leads are still with in spec, posibly the high side, but not bad
Do you know what propper spec is John?
cant remember off the top of my head, but somthing like 10ohm per foot max, I think
Sorry for bringing up old post, I have a question:
When one lead is worn out, should I change just that one or change all four of them at the same time?
you're probably better off doing all 4 at once, otherwise maintenance down the track will be, oh dont replace number 2 cuz I did that 2 months ago, and your mechanic will stuff up, etc etc.
Just do it once, take the hit. :)
Plus, it's a EURO, so make sure you do the best you can to keep it in good condition.
yup but newish is less than 2500ohm per foot.... cyl1 lead is about 1 footQuote:
Originally Posted by wynode
***EDIT***
farking lol... holy thread revival! i quoted someone who knows the answer by now.
well at least it's good to know people still search :thumbsup:
but yeah better off getting them all done... or you can bring your multimeter with you to Pick n Payless lol. thats what i did for the mrs celica when i screwed cyl1 lead
***EDIT AGAIN***
zomg.... my answer about Pick n Payless is irrelevant as they wouldn;t have euros. just do as above and change them all as i don't think you can buy them individually anyway... unless the individual blue Top Gun ones Autobarn sell are universal?
having 1 cylinder not igniting optimally will screw fuel efficiency and performance.
Just get the whole lot done and replace with brand new is my suggestion.
Also a good reading with a multimeter won't always be accurate because the electric stress on the insulation at higher operating voltages will be greater and might not show when you apply only a few volts across it. You really need to do hi-potential testing of the leads to see if there is any leakage current. But that's probably taking it a bit too far :)
Anyone know what the operating voltage is?
PS: THumbs up for searching mastcell!!!
about 20 - 40kv
Thanks, just trying to be a good forum citizen :o. But searching is definitely much harder than just putting up a new post. It took a long time!Quote:
Originally Posted by wynode
It is not for my Euro. I am having problem with my faithful commuter car, a Hyundai Accent I had since 2001. I thought I have more chance finding an answer here. Thanks everyone, I think I will get all four replaced.
good thing its not for the euro, coz they dont have leads :)
noobassQuote:
Originally Posted by yourfather
....lol
yeah i didnt think the euro's had leads. i just thought they had coil packs. Correct me if i'm wrong. But its what i see. This is the same as on my mates ES civic.
Whats the pro's and con's of coil packs and dizzy's?
Coil packs don't have moving parts :)
the spark does not have to jump from an air gap throu a lead to the plug.
with coil packs the there is no lead, less resistance.
just remember operating voltage will also depend if your using a genuine coil or after market one like bosch or msd because they use higher voltage,
just to answer dsp26's question you wont be able to use the universal top gun ones from ure leading auto retailer because most honda motors require the boot to go down to the spark plus. on the other hand top gun do make leads for specific applications but most places have to order them in.
also recommend changing plugs aswell, if previous leads were bad have have damaged the plug, check for brown marks around the ceramic bit of the plug from arcing