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So I've been thinking (merely pondering) about doing a k20 swap into my eg civic and have noticed the rediculous price difference in regular k20s and type r k20s and have also seen that most people usually swap out a done of stuff including ecu - so bolt ons and tuning aside what are the differences in the internals of lower and higher powered k20s?
EP3 K20 is 198bhp
DC5 K20 is 220bhp
K24 is from an Accord, and 189bhp, only useful for bolting a K20 head on
With exhaust, intake and a map, you can easily make 230-240bhp on a K20, and a K24/K20 hybrid can easily make 280-290 with a good tune. Even seen 300 out of the box.
thats decent - but whats the actual difference? the size? the ecu? the displacement?Quote:
Originally Posted by SimonF
the numbers after the letter indicate the displacement. 20 means 2L, 24 means 2.4L
Time to do some reading
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_K_engine
Displacement is an obvious difference..
K20 = 2L
K24 = 2.4L
Everything you mentioned is different. All come with different ecu's from factory, the K24 is a marginally taller motor.
The K20 is high revving motor peakier powerband, where as the K24 is more of a freight train, pulls hard with a lot of torque, which the 2L variant doesnt have.
Accord motors are cheaper as they are much more common coming from a family car, whereas the K20a2/R costs alot more as its somewhat rarer + comes with the Type R tax...
Stock for stock the K20a is a better motor, but the K24 has alot of potential just waiting to be unleashed aswell.
thankyou! you're the only one who'se answered my question! So if I were to build - a k24 would be the starting point.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vvvtec
I would build the motor before dropping it, basic way to look at it, like most honda motors k20a lacks the torque (which i dont think) swapping the bottom end to a k24 is like stroking k20 from 2.0L to 2.4L (dramatic increase in torque) and u keep all the bells and whistles of the k20 head.
Look at the build treads in the motor section before starting.... its a lot of work involved. This swap isn't for a car that is for street purposes only. The complications wont stop! even after the transplant.
The K20/24 is a very good build but at that price you could be driving a much MUCH more modern civic (ep3r). Think about your options and what your looking for. If your a p plater I wouldn't recommend this swap at all, its illgeal for you to drive a eg with a k20 powered. No joke the transplant will cost you as much as freshly imported ep3r.
If your after more power explore a built b18c/7. Cheap, reliable, legal (easy and cheap to make it so) and powerful, or if you already have a DOHC vtec head look at the b20 builds.
My 2cents.
Edit: Also you WILL NOT make the money back from selling the car. Check the forsale section there are k20s up for sale for so long as the owners are trying to make a small % of what they spent. Still no sale.
The price differences as mentioned earlier rarer donor car, demand is quiet high vs the limited amount made in factory. For the cheaper variants, they just don't make the power for the $$ spent on the conversion (k20a3)
And of-course the internals are different, youtube ALOT video documentary about the k20a and its variants, Honda made different engines for different purposes - Race car (k20a/k20z), Lower Emissions more fuel efficiency at the cost of power (k20a3)
Honda even made a 4WD version of the k20 for the CRX lolol.
Yes, K24 is an excellent place to start!Quote:
Originally Posted by russell.94
But has been mentioned, the Kswap is a very demanding conversion, not only on your wallet, but your patients. If you want to have a swap that is really 'worth it', you need to be prepared to sacrifice alot of time and money on researching and buying parts. And i emphasise the money part lol.
But from personal experience, i can tell you that the knowledge you can and fun you have along the way cannot be given a dollar figure. For me, my kswap has been an amazing journey, and i dont regret it whatsoever, so far atleast lol.
I should add, theres a reason the Kswap is expensive. Its on a completely different level from your usual Bseries swap, and thats with a stock motor + bolt ons ans a tune.
But at the end of the day, you need to decide in your head what you really want to achieve. Because by the time you have your Kswap on the road, you probably could have bought something newer/nicer/comfier/faster for the money. But you sure wont get the thrill you do from a kseries, i say that from personal experience.
Just go a boosted B
Easier,cheaper and more power
B series is dead m8. Move on.
But B20vtec turbo makes 150kw atwQuote:
Originally Posted by u mad?
food for thought is all I'm after, cheers for you contribution dudeQuote:
Originally Posted by Vvvtec
No worries :) Ill take uou for a spin in mine when its done ;)
Also remember that there is a big difference between the Type R and base model K20A engines as well as the K24A from the Accord Euro vs all the other K24A engines from the Accord/CRV.
sounds good!Quote:
Originally Posted by Vvvtec