Clutch Master Cylinder Replaced... Now Having Same Problems.

Hi guys,

First some history.
So about a month ago I had my clutch master cylinder replaced on my '95 Integra VTi-R. I had the basic symptoms: a loss of clutch pressure and eventually a complete loss of clutch fluid.
So the cylnder was replaced and everything went great. However just this week I've noticed similar symptoms again. Basically the friction point of the clutch is very close to the firewall again, so I hardly bring my foot up off the clutch before the car starts moving (when in gear). I don't think I've lost any clutch fluid, it appears to all be there. And the car is still driveable.

I was just wondering if anybody had experienced similar problems or had any ideas on what may be causing this? If it matters, I do have a heavy duty clutch. Although I'm not sure what brand or model it is.

TL, DR: My clutch's friction point is close to the firewall. What do?

Adjust the nut on the clutch master cylinder for more pedal throw?

Do you feel that there's a large dead area before the clutch engages?

Replaced with bnib cmc or used?

adjsut pedal free play.

Oh sorry, I should have mentioned it was a brand new replacement. Not an OEM Honda part though.
Yes there is a larger dead zone than usual. I understand adjusting the bolt, but is it likely that's the fix? Everything was fine for 2 weeks after replacement, then the issue started.

could be the slave cylinder or the hose leaking as well.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by butterfingers

adjsut pedal free play.

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How do you do this?

theres a nut somewhere behind the pedal. i suggest just go to an expert. Dedy can do it for u

attached image is specification to adjust the clutch pedal free play to factory specs. It's off the EK manual, but I can only assume it is the same for the DC2.

http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/5...utchadjust.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

All the stuff about the clutch switches dont apply as AUS models dont have them. Or at least I didnt have them on my EK when I adjusted my pedal.

The important part is just the from 1 to 4 and the measurement specs given.

hey
i was reading the problem you had with your master cylinder i had the same problem aswell

change it but i didnt use oem master cylinder it was ohk for 2 weeks then after the pedal felt like there was to much freeplay not enought clutch pedal.

so to fixs the problem look at the master cylinder and there should be a 12mm nut loosen that and you can spin the nut with your hands make sure you spin the nut all the way to the end of the tread then get a pair or plyers and start turning the shaft or rod anticlockwise its easier to mark the rod with a black line so u know how much full turn u have done at first when you start to do it just do 3 full rotation turns on the rod and u should feel the pedal gettting firmer and then try it with your foot to test it if not firm enought keep adjustinng untill it gets firm but not to much tho. try not to loosen the rod cause is can cause the rod the pop of the thread housing and its a pain to put it back on. try that see if that helps

ive personally found some non oem replacement master cylinders rubbish...

replaced my leaking one with a non oem unit and it felt crap and leaked within a month.... replaced it with an oem one when i got my clutch changed and its been good with no signs of leaking for 3 months already.

yea im fixing of going to oem should of bourt it in the first place

Thanks for your suggestions sammutn90. I will take a look at that and see if it helps. I've noticed over a few weeks that it's mostly alright if I drive the car everyday. But as soon as it sits there for longer than a day without being driven, it acts up. Then gets better again after driving for a bit. So I'm thinking I may just need to bleed the fluids again. But I will still try your suggestion and see how it goes. Thanks.

Yea no worries man just try that am i did bleed it but it didnt really make a differents on the pedal freeplay its more to do with adjusting the pedal was yours hard selecting in gear?

Have you checked the slave cylinder to make sure that it is not leaking from the piston that pushes against the clutch release fork?

@ sammutn90. I did notice it's a little harder to change gear while the problem is occuring. However it becomes easier with a bit of driving.

@ aaronng. I haven't checked the slave, no. I don't feel I've lost any fluid since the master was changed, so I presumed a leak wasn't likely.

Yeah thats what happened to mine aswell but since i have adjusted the pedal freeplay its was better now to change gear now but i need to do engine mounts for a smoother gear change and are u running oem mtf fluid thats helps aswell

My mate who did the change for me is a Volkswagon mechanic, and he took the fluid from there. So I presume it's OEM Volkswagon fluid hahaha.

U serious man change that to honda mtf

Oh I wasn't talking about transmission fluid. I was talking about the fluid in the master clutch cylinder. It's still an OEM grade brake fluid, is it that much of a problem?

As long as it is DOT3, DOT4 or DOT5.1, it's fine.