Hondata S300 DC5R

Just wondering if this is a direct plug in and away you go or done it need to be tuned?

I want to buy myself something for xmas and thought this would be good. Only mods i have are high flow cat and muffler. I want to get headers but if i don'y have to i wont. I would rather the ECU. I dont want to do any other mods to my car as i have been told the inlet side to the DC5R is really well put together.

I dont want to go k-pro as i plan on doing nothing else. Will this particular ECU be any good?

Sorry if this already exists.

S300 is for B series. Kpro is for K series.

Why don't you want Kpro?

Do you realise they are both the same thing, just for the two different series' of engine?

OH, lol. I thought they were just different ecu. Sorry i am new to it all. K-pro is just expensive right now. If thats the case i will get some headesr from JDM yard instead to reduce the noise of the high flows i have on there now.

We all have to start somewhere :)

You're looking at $1150~ new from the states for Kpro.

An aftermarket header will make more noise over stock too, btw.

Jesus, lol. I guess i will be saving for that one, lol. That can be my tax return :P

I heard they will make it a little quieter only cause its a little high pitched right now get a little annoying.

Is there an upgrade you could recommend?

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Originally Posted by White Noise

Jesus, lol. I guess i will be saving for that one, lol. That can be my tax return :P

I heard they will make it a little quieter only cause its a little high pitched right now get a little annoying.

Is there an upgrade you could recommend?

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Generally, the smartest way to go about it is to get your intake/header/exhaust sorted BEFORE getting a tuning solution, ie: Kpro.

Get your motor breathing nicely, then finish it off with a tune to maximise your results by getting your new setup working well together.

Your K20 is a very good motor, and will respond well to those simple breathing mods (n/a speaking ofcourse :p) It will sound nice a feel very good to drive, with a nicer midrange and a bit more useable power.

Really, it all comes down to your budget, if I were you I'd jsut stick a nice intake on it, you'll get some nice topend with a cold air intake, and the sound will make you smile every time :)

Repped^

Retuning is expensive. Consider tuning as the icing on the cake. No point making the icing before the cake is done. So you need a lot of $$$ for initial mods before an ecu and tuning is worthwhile.

If I could relive my green P's I would mod my stock airbox by chopping off the resonator chamber, looking back the gains i comparison to cost are negligible [ I had a gruppeM ****ing boss yes and does give gains but is it worth the 1k+ price tag? UP to you I wouldnt again].

Get a lightened flywheel. When I had my K24 DC5 it was the best mod I ever did.

I heard cutting that part out of the airbox helps alot as apposed to buying a gruppe M or something similar. Might give that a crack tomorrow. I think i will go for the headers next.

What would a lightened flywheel achieve? Should i get the Heavy Duty Clutch too? What would this do?

Thank you heapos for the help guys :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by White Noise

I heard cutting that part out of the airbox helps alot as apposed to buying a gruppe M or something similar. Might give that a crack tomorrow. I think i will go for the headers next.

What would a lightened flywheel achieve? Should i get the Heavy Duty Clutch too? What would this do?

Thank you heapos for the help guys :)

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The thing with a GruppeM is that it allows for colder air to mix and combust with the fuel. If you can't justify spending the money for it, you could try the Tegiwa intake (gruppem replica), Injen CAI or just a short ram intake. Not too sure how much difference cutting out part of the airbox would do. Guess it wouldn't hurt to try?

Lightened flywheel will allow for the revs to pick up a little quicker. Your car will accelerate a little bit quicker, but at the same time you need to shift faster because the revs will also drop faster. A typical stock clutch wouldn't be able to handle the harshness of track driving or lots of extra torque very well. Having a heavy duty clutch allows makes the clutch 'bite' a lot harder. So you may find it a bit annoying for daily driving. Depends on the person and how 'heavy duty' the clutch is. If your DC5 just has the basic bolt-on modifications, you don't really need a heavy duty clutch. But if you did get one, stage 1.5 or stage 2 is plenty enough. Anything above that is useless unless you have a highly modified car, track car or just like your clutch to have an aggressive bite. Also take note that if you decide to do get a lightened flywheel and clutch, you should get them done at the same time because they all have to be removed whether you're replacing just one of them or both.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by funworld

The thing with a GruppeM is that it allows for colder air to mix and combust with the fuel. If you can't justify spending the money for it, you could try the Tegiwa intake (gruppem replica), Injen CAI or just a short ram intake. Not too sure how much difference cutting out part of the airbox would do. Guess it wouldn't hurt to try?

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Yes.

From my own personal experience, $250 or whatever for an Injen isnt worth it. Its how I blew my K20A2, plus the gains arent really that big. You can live without it, its nice to have but dont get carried away like I did. When I parted out my Mugen headers + hi flow cat and GruppeM, my car did lose its "oompf" but it still went because of the lightened flywheel. From removing the resonator chamber with an angle grinder, I enlarged the inlet of the airbox significantly. Felt more responsive and the guy who bought my car took it for a drive and said it screamed. I wouldnt know I've been driving it for too long and got used to it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by funworld

Lightened flywheel will allow for the revs to pick up a little quicker. Your car will accelerate a little bit quicker, but at the same time you need to shift faster because the revs will also drop faster. A typical stock clutch wouldn't be able to handle the harshness of track driving or lots of extra torque very well. Having a heavy duty clutch allows makes the clutch 'bite' a lot harder. So you may find it a bit annoying for daily driving. Depends on the person and how 'heavy duty' the clutch is. If your DC5 just has the basic bolt-on modifications, you don't really need a heavy duty clutch. But if you did get one, stage 1.5 or stage 2 is plenty enough. Anything above that is useless unless you have a highly modified car, track car or just like your clutch to have an aggressive bite. Also take note that if you decide to do get a lightened flywheel and clutch, you should get them done at the same time because they all have to be removed whether you're replacing just one of them or both.

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Dont go stage 2 I had one. It was good for racing and spirited drives but stop start, it made an annoying screech sound. Plus was really picky with how it liked to be used to be smooth. If anything go Exedy Heavy Duty.

Lightened flywheels arent as annoying as people say they are. I find it easier to drive with over stock because it takes less throttle to rev. Plus when you down shift without heel toeing there's not much jerking and lurching because that heavy weight has been lightened.

Funworld's right with the hiyting two birds with one idea stone, but you should also ask yourself how long your going to keep this car and how often it will be on the track or at wsid.

Thanks Funworld and DakDak :)

Sounds like i should just go a lightened flywheel and keep my stock clutch. Nothing wrong with it so why fix what isn't broken. Any particular ones i should go for brand and most importantly quality wise?

I plan on keep the car car for a long time. i dont really do track but we have good mountains here so Touge is my thing :) Just after a little quicker acceleration.

I had an Exedy lightened flywheel. It weighed about 4kg I think from memory, the stock one was around 8kg+ ! If your going to keep the car for about 2 years and the clutch doesnt look like it'll last that long replace it. How many km's have you got on your car? Stock clutches last about 120000km on average depending if its had a hard life or not.

I was running a stock dc5r clutch with a K24 for ages. They're rather decent.

Just keep the hard launches to a minimum and burn outs, dont ride it etc the stock clutch will last for quite awhile.

Ok, so i just spoke to Adelaide Clutches (Also knows as Australian Clutches). They have a kit with a heavy duty clutch and lightened Cr. Mono flywheel for $820.00 inc gst and delivery. Wondering if anyone has a better clutch for a similar price? i hear these ones are on par with Exedy so cant be too bad.

Also anyone have a rough price to install or could i do it myself with a tech manual? Anyone want to do it for me? I can help...morally of course, lol.

I have 159000kms on the car right now. Clutch has never bene changed but doesnt feel bad at all.

I hear that the engine light might come on if i change these things. Is this true?

Can get yourself an Exedy sports organic clutch and flywheel combo from the states for ~$500, i got myself an 3puk stage 2 and 4kg flywheel for $640 landed.

Thanks Monique. I will have to shop around but i will look in that states.

Probably a stupid question but will that fit in a AUD DC5R model?

Im happy to fit it for you if your located in melb

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Monique

Can get yourself an Exedy sports organic clutch and flywheel combo from the states for ~$500, i got myself an 3puk stage 2 and 4kg flywheel for $640 landed.

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+1 :thumbsup:

Can you guys suggest a site. Im having trouble finding a combo kit. Im not too good with the internet.

Thanks STNDRD. Im not in Melbourne but i would drive down there. Its only 8 hours away. How much to install it all once i get it? Probably wont be for around 2-3 months. I just want to research it all first but its definitley my next mod then some headers.

Give me a call on 0412785187 and we can discuss

Will do mate :D Like i said wont be for a few months but the trip will be fun :) I appreciate the offer :)

IMO I wouldn't go 3puk for a daily street driven car, you don't need that kind of 'bite' with that power level and it shutters unless you don't mind that. I'd reccommend sports organic or heavy duty clutch exedy of course. Labour for installing a clutch could be around $200-$500 depending where your going. With the engine light issue it won't come on if everything is installed correctly.

Regards
Thanh

3puk feels nice

Never felt the shutter feeling before but i doubt i would like it. I have emailed a few companies now and the guy you recommened Monique. Just waiting on replies now :)

I hope this mod is worth it but from what i keep hearing it is the best thing to mod :)

3puk is not good for daily driving unless you're driving with a high powered engine [Which you need such a clutch to effectively transfer the torque]. 3puk in general are unsprung so you can't ride it [No give, its either on or off] and there isn't much clutch material on it so it wears out faster. You'll be surprised how fast you can wear out a race clutch with daily driving. Other issues apart from shutter and no riding the clutch is chatter, its a given. You must also ensure that your master clutch cylinder is up to the task [Otherwise the clutch won't cleanly engage or disengage basically half sticking it making it wear out etc], as is your gearbox because you need to be a very clean shifter otherwise you'll botch your shifts and put more wear on your syncros, etc. This is amplified if you're driving with a light weight flywheel.

Another thing to note with the lightweight flywheel, you must remember that because the lack of momentum, you will experience more 'loss' when you have A/C on or passengers in the car, it will feel like the car's engine is struggling. I had to launch my car at 5k just to go up a slightly steep incline with passengers and A/C on with the 3.8kg Flywheel...

In general, if your car is stock/near stock [Bolt-ons + ECU] then usually a HD [Heavy Duty] Clutch is the way to go. You have increased clamping power/efficiency in torque transfer while retaining near stock clutch drivability. HD are different between companies but they usually feature a sprung full face clutch and stronger pressure plate =)

Exedy 3puk is a sprung clutch and feels great.

How long has it lasted for you?

I think mine was either a 3puk or 6puk and it didn't survive 8mths...

Then again I think 10,000RPM+ and 200PS+ doesn't help for daily LOL

So i finally have decided what i am getting for my clutch/flywheel combo.

I spoke to Scott (recommended by Monique, Thanks Monique :D )

He has suggested Exedy Stage 1 clutch and Exedy 8.9 pound (4kg) flywheel.

Now just to import from the USA then save to get it thrown in :) I wil keep this thread updated.

I really appreciate all the help :D

While you are at it , change your rear main seal with genuine OEM Honda item

Have no idea what that is, lol. Is it expensive?

$20 part that will save you hundreds later

Quick question... rear main seal purpose is?

It is an oil control seal that prevents oil escaping past the end of the block at the end of the crank

Thank you much mate

Ok. And this is done when doing the flywheel and clutch im assuming?

Yes. Once you remove the flywheel you have access to it

Sweet :)

I really appreciate all the advice guys.

I will be sure to get one :)