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Hey guys, I just wanted to know what type/kind of amp do I need to power (RMS Power/Watts/Channels)
2x Rockford Fosgate Punch P2 Subwoofers (Dual 4 ohm voice coils)
Peak Power: 800 watts
RMS Power: 450 watts
http://i46.tinypic.com/r76fj5.jpg
& 4x ROCKFORD FOSGATE POWER T16 6" CAR SPEAKERS
Peak Power: 140watts
RMS Power: 70 watts
http://i48.tinypic.com/sd0gte.jpg
Please help me out!
Do you have a photo of the back of the actual subs? are they a dual voice coil or a single voice coil?
^they're dual voice coil.Quote:
Originally Posted by LIVE DC5
dual 2 ohm or dual 4 ohm
They're dual 4 ohmQuote:
Originally Posted by LIVE DC5
Look at a 1000w RMS mono bloc amp
wire both subs in paralell (pos to pos, neg to neg)
you will need the amp to be 1OHM stable to support the amount the subs will load it down.
sorry if its confusing
Oh okay, So can a mono run 2 subs? and will it be pumping 500RMS to one sub right? Oh & how about the speakers? I wanna run them off a amp to for full potential power.Quote:
Originally Posted by LIVE DC5
a mono amp can run many subs depending on what resistance the subs load it down, hard to explain, but 2 yes, easily.
yes 500w RMS to each sub which is perfect. To amp the speakers, well it is a better option, but bang for buck many dont see the difference. I'd recommend running them with no amp, see how they go. if your not happy with how they perform add the amp, but be prepared to fork out another $500-700 for something decent installed.
What sort of car is it in and how much are you looking to spend?
Okay cheers. I'll prob run a mono block then. & for the speakers how many RMS do I need for the amp? Can't you get like $200 ones that will run the 4 speakers ?Quote:
Originally Posted by LIVE DC5
Honda Civic EG Sedan ( Granny car) but yeah good for mates to tag along in a 4 dour! and I'm looking around to spend $1000.Quote:
Originally Posted by LIVE DC5
Ahh ok nothing wrong with that, better then carting people around in a 4 door.
yeah mate id ditch the amp speakers idea for now, expensive task.
And wanting big bass im asuming?
the trick with sound quality on a low budget is to get small low powered speakers, so they are going to do the job alot better with the small amount of power offered by the CD player. where are you from and where are you buying the gear from?
The thing is the head unit only has 200 watts it self :( aha so what if I run these 4 140 watt speakers how many watts/rms would be coming into 1 speaker from the 200watt head unit? 50 watts? Or something else..Quote:
Originally Posted by LIVE DC5
And I'm not sure yet
^^ 50w per channel..
Doesnt matter if u only run 2 speakers and connect them .. It will provide 50w to those each speakers..
What u also want is to have a decent Pre-out voltage from the Unit to your amp i.e 5v pre-out as this will provide some additional boost to your amp and gains settings on your HU.
Also depending on how many output RCAs will determine how many amps and what type of amps you can connect to your HU.
How many RCA outputs would I need for 2 subs and a mono block? 2 is it ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Rage King
ok well a head unit is 200w total, thats 4 channels at 50w (max) in theory yes they are underpowered alot but theres alot to take into account than just power, you will find its still a great match so dont stress.
the higher voltage of pre out is a big helper for the amp, gives the amp a stronger signal to work off, better sound/more efficent. a mono block will have the one RCA input (pair RED/WHITE)
and 3 pairs will be better in the long run for running multiple amplifiers.
if your paying around $300 or so for a head unit thats a pretty good chance that your going to get 3x RCA outputs AT 4-5v
A decent amp to power the two subs will be more like $400 or more, and you need a good wiring kit - 0 gauge with a 150A fuse or more.
What type of speaker box do you have for the subs? Ported would be best, with 3" or bigger ports.
Otherwise, you'd be better off with just one sub - it will still kick hard.
I would run the othe speakers off the deck, as suggested. will be fine.
Oh okay yes I'll be running this of a Kenwood KDC-U453 head unit probably/maybe not sure yet which has 2 Preout (2.0V), Rear/Subwoofer SwitchableQuote:
Originally Posted by LIVE DC5
Would you's have any other suggestions for Subs and head units? Because all I want is hard solid bass!
I haven't came to a decision yet, But I'm thinking about Alpine too.Quote:
Originally Posted by -JDM
Mono blocks are generally used as the term of running 1 powerful sub (1chan bridged mode)Quote:
Originally Posted by -JDM
But if your going to use a 2/1channel mono block then you will only need to run 1 pair of RCAs from the HU (sub-out) then connect these two RCAs to your amp input. Then hook up your output channels 1 & 2 to each of your subs (2).
If your planning to run and utilise your dual voice coils setup on both subs then you will need a min of 800wrms per channel.
So if 1 sub is 450rms @ 4ohms.. Then you use DVC to lets say 2ohms then your new total will be approx 850wrms per sub (cant remember the exact formula). So in saying this you will need at least a min 800wrms amp to run 1 sub.
Yes I think ported! Cause I want all that bass going everywhere! And yeah probs 3"+.Quote:
Originally Posted by SQXPRT
Typical young guy thing lol, ive been in retail for 5 years and i would not put you past a pioneer. Strong sound easy to use and there using 4v output in there mid-high end range, kenwood and JVC have merged into one company as of early last yr and they keep having software issues especially with ipod and USB.
if you want something loud and reasonably cheap that wont fall to bits look at dual kickers, 600-800w RMS big tuned ports they hurt when you get them going, you do sacrifice a bit of sound quality but
I think that kenwoods are entry level seeing that its only got 1 pair of rca sub/rear pre-outs with 2v.Quote:
Originally Posted by -JDM
U can still use this HU to run 1 amp and 1 or 2 subs..
Again, it will come to the decision on how much bass/power you want to hear/feel. The amp will be your biggest challenge.
My suggestions would be;
Buy the pioneer package that comes with the 6inch speakers $130rrp (approx). This HU has way more options with regards to high/mid/low filters / frequency settings built in the HU. As well as for the sub control too.
Unlike kenwoods they only have high/mod/low without the option to finer tune the frequencies and gains.
Amp;
If your planning 1 sub @ 4ohms the a 600wrms amp will do the trick.
If 2 subs @ 4ohms each then a 1200wrms amp will be sufficient.
Then if you plan to much round with DVCs then you will need a much higher amp output.
4gauge amp kit will be sufficient..
0 gauge is way too big... Unless your planning to run a 3cap farad...and enter the sounds offs at the auto salon comps.. Lol
A mono amp is 1 ch regaurdless to how many subs you run off it, i ch in and 1 ch out. ohms is a rating on resistance levels generally everytime its halved the power level doublesQuote:
Originally Posted by Rage King
if an amp is 400w rms at 4 ohm
it will be roughly (depending on quality and tolerence) 800w rms at 2 ohm
Thickness of power wire is also determined by distance for a small car running around the 1000 rms mark im with Rage King 4 ga is fine
Okay. Don't worry about the Rockfords! I'm going into Alpine now aha.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rage King
I'm 98% sure now that I'm gonna get a Alpine 1800W Type R 12" sub
4-Layer Dual Voice Coil 4 Ohms
(RMS
RANGE 300-600w)
with a Alpine 1100W Mono Block Amp (RMS 550)
Is this a near perfect/good set up? :|
Stuff the set up I was talking about before or whatever.Quote:
Originally Posted by LIVE DC5
How about ...
A Alpine 1800W Type R 12" sub
4-Layer Dual Voice Coil 4 Ohms
(RMS
RANGE 300-600w)
with a Alpine 1100W Mono Block Amp (RMS 550)
Yay or nay? Sorry for being so noob. :/
^^that combo is fine.
Ive got a 12in fusion power transplant sub which can run 4/2/1ohms @ 1ohms its rated at 2200wrms lolwut!!
Though i only ran a jaycar response digital monoblock which i had it setup at 1ch .. With capable output of 1600wrms.. It wasnt enough output power to my subs to hear/feel the full potential but it did its job to my listening ears... Also i sure my amp wasnt producing that much output power due to just running a 4gauge +power and no farad cap.. My lights would flicker at night at full blast!! Lol..
If i had a farad then ill be close but since the power was relying on the cars battery + oem alternator and other vehicle running necessities i was still happy.
Be sure to read and follow the owners manual for the amp operation and settings. And with any subs - be sure to know what is the optimal cubic per sq / liters for the box capacity...
Otherwise youll blow something up and could cause major fire hazard.
Gl champ and let us know what u went with..
here is the specs of my amp currently - i guess my earlier figures could be wrong as i wasnt sure.. hehehe
Response 1000WRMS Linkable Car Monoblock Amplifier
Monstrous, bleeding-eardrum power and high efficiency in an extremely compact chassis. It has dual MOSFET power supplies and is stable driving 1 or 2 ohm loads. In addition, you get variable bass boost, adjustable phase shift, low pass filter and master/slave operation. Optional remote bass gain controller.
• Speaker short, over current, thermal and DC protection
• 4 AWG power terminals
Specifications:
• Power output:
• 1000WRMS @ 1 ohm mono 14.4V
• 600WRMS @ 2 ohms mono 14.4V
• 1800WRMS @ 2 ohm linkable, dual mono 14.4V
• Low pass filter: 30 - 250Hz
• Bass boost: 0 - 12dB
• Phase shift: 0 -180°
• Dimensions: 300(L) x 170(W) x 50(H)mm