Comptech Titanium Strut Brace fits Euro

Well it took me a few hours of work last night and a few extra zip ties but I managed to get my Comptech Titanium strut brace to fit on my Euro. :D

The A/C lines definitely are the main problem, but a bit of foam insulation and some zip ties to hold them firmly against the strut brace should do the trick. They shouldn't move at all while the car is running and neither will the strut brace, so there shouldn't be any rubbing.

There were a number of other metal brackets removed which held brake booster and power steering tubes in place, but they were easily supported by ziptying them to the strut brace or other mounting points.

Now I would not expect a company to sell the solution that I have put together as I am sure that most customers would feel a little uncomfortable about the number of zipties that I ended up using, but it fits, it works and I don't foresee any rubbing or wearing problems with the way it has been setup. ;)

Photo's will follow of the end result, I didn't take too many along the way as it is really just a matter of removing things methodically that will get in the way. I will however take photo's of all the brackets removed, where they were located and the adjustments to replace them.

If I had my time over, I would probably buy the Cusco strut brace which is a much better fit because it is designed for the right hand drive CL9 and also a hell of a lot cheaper (Comptech charge US$319). Having said that, I do have an unhealthy obsession with titanium and billet alloy (and steel for that matter!) and quite simply I love the way it looks in the engine bay.

That alone and the uniqueness of this mod in Australia makes it all worthwhile.

Photo's soon and an account of whether it makes any difference to the handling when driving ... :D

Rod

Ahhh... Next time get the post up with pics first!! You're making me itch while I wait LOL!

Well done - love the Comptech bar. I would be one of the customers that wouldn't want zip ties holding brake booster, etc!

Let us know how it goes. I think the front end is stiff enough - but interesting to see how you find it.

hehe - Just read that closed Faiz post about understeer/oversteer - when he really is talking about a wheel alignment. Very funny indeed. There is no way with his driving ability he can get that car to oversteer

Well the brake booster itself is still held in place by proper brackets, but it is just the vaccuum hoses which are now "guided" by zip ties as opposed to metal brackets.

Sorry ... photo's will explain all shortly ...

Rod

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Originally Posted by jolt

Well the brake booster itself is still held in place by proper brackets, but it is just the vaccuum hoses which are now "guided" by zip ties as opposed to metal brackets.

Sorry ... photo's will explain all shortly ...

Rod

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ahh sounds good. love the titanium but fark $319US is not cheap.

Yeah we want Photo's :D

http://www.prosperion.com.au/rod/titanium/

Well I have finally put up some photo's of the Comptech Titanium Strut Brace installed on my OzDM Accord Euro. The descriptions should be pretty self-explanatory but I'm happy to field any questions if they're not clear.

Here is one of the photo's ...
http://www.prosperion.com.au/titaniu...gine%20bay.JPG

I have also included some photo's of my Spoon Socks :D , Injen CAI, Hondata Heatshield and AEM Bypass Valve which were also recently installed.

Overall I am really happy with how clean and neat the engine bay looks now. I was at first a bit nervous about the number of zipties I used, but I now think it looks neater, cleaner and more professional than OEM!!

As I mentioned earlier, for the cost next time I would buy a Cusco strut brace designed to fit a right hand drive CL9 in the first place. :rolleyes:

Extremely happy though with the TITANIUM look and how unique this mod is. ;)

Rod

wow! great fotos there! well done :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

What does an AEM bypass do?

great shot of engine bay btw!!

If you drive into water deep enough to cover the pod filter on your CAI, then you risk sucking up a whole lot of water and hydrolocking (seizing) your engine. Then your best case scenario is a full rebuild, otherwise if there is any damage to the block which can't be repaired, you're up for a whole new engine.

The AEM bypass valve is basically like a rubber coupling but with dense foam sides and some rubber flaps inside that open up with an increase in vacuum in the intake. The idea is that in normal conditions it is easier to suck air through the pod filter than through the foam of the bypass valve. Then if the pod filter of your CAI is submersed in water, it is easier to suck air from the engine bay through the foam than sucking the water through the pod filter and up the CAI.
http://www.aempower.com/productSubCatImages/3_1_f.jpg

From what I know, AEM do not make a valve that will fit the K&N Typhoon kit, they only have models to fit their own CAI and the one from Injen.

More information available here:
http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/te...ted/index.html

Does that all make sense? Basically it's an insurance policy against killing your engine when it rains and since this car is my wife's, whilst I might make sure that I don't drive through deep puddles, there's no way I can expect her to do the same. Especially since she thinks the mod's are a waste of money and ruining the car anyway!! :rolleyes:

Rod

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great shot of engine bay btw!!

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Thanks, it's really dirty though and could do with a good clean. :)

Rod

Rod,

So what you're saying is the by pass valve also sucking air all the time?
wouldn't that defeat the purpose of CAI?

I see you blocking the rocker valve, that would build up pressure inside the crank wouldnt it? best to get a oil filter or somesort.

Oh, the comptech strut bar is yummy!! Looks so much bigger than the Cusco one that Learner has on his car

Quote:

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The AEM bypass valve is basically like a rubber coupling but with dense foam sides and some rubber flaps inside that open up with an increase in vacuum in the intake. The idea is that in normal conditions it is easier to suck air through the pod filter than through the foam of the bypass valve.

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Here is a photo of the inside of the AEM bypass valve which shows the rubber flaps. Basically it stays shut and sealed until the pod filter is submersed and it needs to suck air from the engine bay, so in normal conditions the CAI still achieves the desired effect. :)
http://sportcompactcarweb.com/tech/0104scc_tested03.jpg

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I see you blocking the rocker valve, that would build up pressure inside the crank wouldnt it? best to get a oil filter or somesort.

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I'm not sure what you mean ... :o

Rod

Nice... So I take it as it fits perfectly with no issues then :) but 319 Big Ones... WOAH! Then again it's SEXY!

You mentioned you got the Hondata Heatshield, do you mean the Intake Gasket coz I've been looking for one, even PM the bloke that does Hondata here but have yet ti get a reply... How much was it? did u install it yourself? I've read installation is not that simple and you have to drain the coolant...

Wow the comptech strut bar does look real sexy on ur car Jolt...

Thanks for the info about the AEM bypass valve that is really something i need during winter if my injen goes into CAI mode. My mugen front bar has holes on the side and front that will definetly suck water if it rains...

Where did u get ur AEM bypass valve?? From online stores in the US or through ur friends??

Hey!! I never said it was a perfect fit!! :D

Hondata heatshield gasket and AEM bypass valve came from the same guy in the USA I bought the Injen intake from.

I didn't install the heatshield myself, I chickened out of that. I do have a PDF copy of some instructions including photo's of how to do it though and yes it will involve draining the coolant.

I will post them on the same website for download soon. Heatshields cost about US$55 plus shipping through ebay or another online seller but it is closer to $155 shipped in Australia I think!!

Rod

tat looks ggggreat jolt