Maintenance thread for EP3 TYPE R

Hi guys,

I recently purchased an EP3 Type R and am looking at servicing all aspects of the car.

I tried doing a search for spark plugs and oils but found it all very scattered and confusing. I thought a thread like this would be great for everyone to share what they are using to maintain there care and also to pass on recommendations to others

Engine Oil: Castrol Edge 5W30
Comments: The only oil I have tried so I cant really compare

Oil Filter: ???
Comments:

Brake Fluid: ???
Comments:

Transmission Oil: Honda MTF
Comments: The only oil I have tried so I cant really compare

Spark Plugs: ???
Comments:

Air Filter: ???
Comments:

Please feel free to copy, paste and edit the template.

Looking forward to your replies.

*Updated with Oil Filter and Brake Fluid

I use:

Engine Oil: Redline 5w30 and Castrol Edge 5w30
Comments: Both burn way too much and will not be using it again. Will be using Anglomoil Roadmaster 500 10w40 next.

Transmission Oil: Honda MTF

Spark Plugs: NGK ZFR6FIX-11

Air Filter: GruppeM

Diff Oil: Non existant.

Brake fluid: OEM Honda Dot4. Not bad but had a lot of brake fade when I took it to the track. Now using Motul RBF600 which I cannot fault. Will be trying ATE Super Blue next as it is cheaper than the Motul.

Thanks for the reply. Updated what I missed!

Yes when using Castrol Edge mine burns too.

I've used:

Engine Oil: Mobil 1 5W30, Royal Purple 5W30, Pentrite Enviro 5W30, Castrol Edge 5W30, Penrite 10 Tenths Racing 5W30
Comments: I will be sticking with 10 Tenths Racing since it is decent for its price and i dont track it everyday so it is suitable for daily driving. I didn't burn any oil while using multiple companies. My engine is fine with 5W30.
Side note: If you're burning oil, go for a thicker grade like 5W40 or 10W40. Common issue with the EP3s

Oil Filter: Honda Hamp, Honda OEM and Ryco Z547
Comments: Same shit different smell

Brake Fluid: Castrol Super Dot 4
Comments: Works really well and did not boil after 3 years + 1 track day

Transmission Oil: Motul 75W90,Honda MTF and Castrol Syntrans 75W85
Comments: Motul was rough on cold starts and it will be hard to get into second gear. Honda was fine but only lasted around 10,000 - 15,000kms before it starts to feel a bit crap. I am currently using Syntrans and it still feels fine after 10,000kms and a track day.

Spark Plugs: BKR7EIX-11

Air Filter: Honda OEM and K&N
Comments: For the price i would pick K&N since it is re-useable.

Engine Oil: Castrol Edge 5W30 for track and sometimes daily (currently using it for daily use) it burns around 100-200ml every 2-3 weeks depending on how hard I push it. I've also use Calibre 5w30, from supercheap for daily use a few times, felt fine and you get 5.5lt which is a bonus. So more oil to burn, and it isn't as painful on the wallet. I'm thinking of trying a castrol edge 5w40 or 10w60 for my next track outting. A mate of mine uses the 10w60 without any burning on his k20 eg.
Comments: See above

Oil Filter: Nippon Max
Comments: Cheap and good filter for the price.

Brake Fluid: Castrol super dot 4
Comments: works fine for track and daily use.

Transmission Oil: Honda MTF
Comments: Only tranny oil I've tried for the EP, super smooth. Good oil for the price.

Spark Plugs: I've been using the NGK BKR6EIX -11 for the past few years. However, you can also use the NGK IFR7G-11K (these were in the car when i got it). I've also tried one set of NGK ZFR6FIX-11, but they were harder to find and costed slightly more.
Comments: The NGK BKR6EIX -11 are relatively cheap where I get them, readily available, none of them have failed on me so far.

Air Filter(s): I had a trust OEM replacement filter in the OEM air box when I bought the car. I replaced that with a pipercross OEM replacement, and ran a custom CAI flex pipe to the airbox, which gave a small gain. I then ran a custom short ram intake with a 3A Racing pod filter, good gains, loud vtec cross over, sucked in a lot of heat from the engine bay/headers. Now I'm running a gruppe M.
Comments: If you have the money, get the gruppe M. Or if your on a budget get an injen CAI kit.

Thanks for all the replies guys. Looks like there is starting to be some consistency.

Is there a difference between BKR6EIX-11 and BKR7EIX-11 or was it a typo?

its the same plug, just different heat ratings. the 6 is the hotter plug.

Too many options with the plugs lol.

Is there one that would be recommended more for daily driving duties?

I don't know too much about heat ratings..

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RPS.13

Engine Oil: Castrol Edge 5W30 for track and sometimes daily (currently using it for daily use) it burns around 100-200ml every 2-3 weeks depending on how hard I push it. I've also use Calibre 5w30, from supercheap for daily use a few times, felt fine and you get 5.5lt which is a bonus. So more oil to burn, and it isn't as painful on the wallet. I'm thinking of trying a castrol edge 5w40 or 10w60 for my next track outting. A mate of mine uses the 10w60 without any burning on his k20 eg.
Comments: See above

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Read somewhere calibre full synth is the same as castrol edge. Do you know anything about that?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by charliebrown

Read somewhere calibre full synth is the same as castrol edge. Do you know anything about that?

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Calibre is made by Castrol iirc but unsure if same formula as Edge...

Calibre full syn is off the shelf ages ago. It does not exist anymore

FYI: Calibre is rebranded Caltex and not Castrol. Hence the red star caps on the bottles

Quote:

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Originally Posted by stienerv2

Calibre full syn is off the shelf ages ago. It does not exist anymore

FYI: Calibre is rebranded Caltex and not Castrol. Hence the red star caps on the bottles

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Been very long since I worked at SCA Lolz

Engine Oil: Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w30

Oil Filter: OEM

Brake Fluid: OEM

Transmission Oil: OEM

Spark Plugs: NGK ZFR6FIX-11

Air Filter: Gruppe M

Fuel filter: OEM

Coolant: OEM

Engine Oil: Penrite HPR5 5W40 / Penrite 10 Tenths Premium 0W50 / Penrite 10 Tenths Racing 10W40

Comments: HPR5 is what I recommend the the daily drive. For cars that get used on the track, I would go for either the 0W50 or 10W40. The Racing 10W40 is guaranteed not to sheer (meaning it will not loose it's viscosity and break down to a 10W30 or 5W30 like alot of other oils will do) and this is what I recommend to all my customers, but I tried the 0W50 in my race car and found that I only burnt off approx 250ml for a whole track day at Winton. I am going to give it another shot to see how it goes, but will most likely end up switching to the 10W40


Oil filter: Repco ROF51 / Ryco Z547 / K&N

Comments: Repco & Ryco great for everyday. K&N has a magnet and is good for hard street/track work


Transmission Oil: Penrite Trans Gear 75W80 / Penrite Pro Gear 75W85

Comments: The Trans Gear is the way to go if you car is purely used on street and the occasional track day. Replaces OEM MTF and exceeds OEM specs. Pro Gear is great for those guys who give there car alot more stick, but the first few minutes require a more gentle approach due to the slightly thicker viscosity. Both oils have been used on track by myself and customers and the Pro Gear is the pick of the two for track


Spark Plugs: NGK (can't remember exact part number but I have used a custom spec for my track car, otherwise just use OEM spec)


Air Filter: DR1FT


Brake fluid: Penrite Super DOT4 / Penrite Racing Brake Fluid

Comments: Again the Super DOT4 is used for daily drivers. With a dry boiling point of 275 degrees, I reckon this will keep up on the track, but may start to experience break down after a few extreme heat cycles. Used the Racing Brake Fluid with a dry boiling point of 315 degrees at Winton and it was as solid after a day as when I unloaded it from the trailer in the morning


Coolant: Penrite 4 year Green

Comments: Good stuff. Haven't had any issue's with it and will keep using it. Also alot cheaper than OEM from memory ($50ish for a 5L bottle of concentrate). I also prefer to change coolant every 4yrs/100,000km over the 200,000km/8yrs that Honda recommends as most people tend to forget and not change, leading to electrolysis


P/S: Penrite HPSO

Comments: The name says it all (Honda Power Steering Oil). Good quality stuff. I find that it stays cleaner for a bit longer vs OEM

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EP3TYPER

Too many options with the plugs lol.

Is there one that would be recommended more for daily driving duties?

I don't know too much about heat ratings..

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For daily driving I would recommend whichever one listed is cheaper.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DreadAngel

Been very long since I worked at SCA Lolz

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Which store did you work at? I am still there lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EP3TYPER

Too many options with the plugs lol.

Is there one that would be recommended more for daily driving duties?

I don't know too much about heat ratings..

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from what i gathered...
correct me if im wrong but just something ive kinda noticed from when i was looking at spark plugs ages ago...

k20a2 runs heat range NGK - 6, Denso - 20
k20a runs heat range NGK - 7, Denso - 22.

the higher the performance of your car, the colder you go.

im currently running Denso SK22's.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mikeyy168

from what i gathered...
correct me if im wrong but just something ive kinda noticed from when i was looking at spark plugs ages ago...

k20a2 runs heat range NGK - 6, Denso - 20
k20a runs heat range NGK - 7, Denso - 22.

the higher the performance of your car, the colder you go.

im currently running Denso SK22's.

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NGK recommends JDM K20A runs the 6 heat rating ZFR6FIX so not too sure

I got different recommendations from a lot of people.

A lot of the info I found was for k20a2. Which was 6. But anything I found on JDM k20a was 7.

Not sure - it's been a while. But runs pretty smooth!

Engine Oil: Valvoline Synpower 5w40
Comments: No burning at all, full synthetic, can be found on sale at super cheap often.

Oil Filter: Honda OEM HAMP filter.
Comments: Its what my mechanic uses, and well, it's OEM as fkk

Brake Fluid: Penrite Racing Super Dot 4
Comments: Has decent dry and wet boiling points, half the price of Motul, but Motul is the bomb

Transmission Oil: Honda MTF
Comments: I tried the Cusco LSD MTF but found during cold starts the gears would not shift into 1st or 2nd sometimes, the oil is very thick. Honda MTF made shifting feel all buttery smooth.

Spark Plugs: NGK IFR7G-11k
Comments: pretty much what everyone else uses

Good guys, looks like we are seeing some trends. Hopefully this helps some members like it has helped myself.

Hey guys,

What oil would you be running on an EP3 with 35kms?

5W30 for sure =)

Can you guarantee it has 35,000km? Just because the odometer says that figure, doesnt mean it does. Allow for double that to actually be on the motor.

I would run a 5W40 to be safe, but if you're still burning oil run a 10W40

I can confirm it has 35kms. I purchased it myself from Japan.

In the case of genuine kms, is 5W30 best?

Can anyone confirm how much gear box oil the ep3 takes? some are saying 1.8L then I found one guy saying 2.5L

Thanks

roughly 1.7-1.8L andrew. 2 bottles will do ya

cheers man

Yo, where do you guys buy your Honda MTF fluid from? Am i guessing directly from Honda? I'm from Sydney, where would be the cheapest place?

I assume that's the best fluid for the EP3 based on the comments in this thread saying it's buttery smooth shifting vs say Motul..

For the OEM HAMP oil filters I'm looking to source them from JDM Yard. Where do you guys buy all the OEM honda servicing gear from like seals and timing belts?

Thanks, sorry in advance if these questions sound retarded..

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EP3TYPER

I can confirm it has 35kms. I purchased it myself from Japan.

In the case of genuine kms, is 5W30 best?

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I want the answer as to why this is better and most people are using this vs 5W40 in the manual?

A late bump but i figured a thread like this could do with it to help others.

My car is a 100% daily driver and it also runs a Cusco 1way so OEM oil is not recommend, We had to do a little research and testing to come up with this mixture of good on the street and this is the perfect range for track/hills also, Have taken it on a few spirited runs and not a single difference as the heat begins to climb.

I also let my car get to about 50-60 degree's (2minutes of idling) before i actually drive it, this helps ALOT with the LSD especially and the transmission since this oil is thicker and it is recommended by Cusco also to bring the oil more into its heat efficiency range.

Engine Oil: FUCHS TITAN 5w40 prev FUCHS TITAN 10w40
Oil Filter: RYCO Z547
Brake Fluid: FUCHS DOT4
Transmission Oil: FUCHS 80w90 Supergear LS
Spark Plugs: NGK BKR6EIX-11
Air Filter: APEXI Pod
Fuel filter: OEM
Coolant: FUCHS

If you live in the south west, Mekong Spares in Canley Vale is so far the cheapest I know..

Btw, where are all the old ep3 fellas gone to?? :)

^all sold man.

I can only think of Peter, Perry and Dylan who are left.

Hoping to get my EP3 tomorrow, will do oil this weekend, and drive belt as pre inspection said it's worn. Is it easy enough to get through Honda here? and for the oil my car won't be tracked (maybe in future) so go with 5W40 ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ntonio

Engine Oil: FUCHS TITAN 5w40 prev FUCHS TITAN 10w40

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What's so great about Fuchs Titan, if you don't mind me asking (I don't know anything about it)? :)

I am quite happy with Penrite "Racing" oil - it's the cheapest Group 4 based oil you can buy.

I run 5w30 as the fn2 won't see the track (because it's too slow!.........) - the 5w30 has friction modifiers so might pick up a kW or two to help the fn2's glacier-esque (lack of) performance.

I suppose 10w40 would be good for a tracked EP3, that verson doesn't have friction modifiers - either are not bad for $55/bottle on special.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tseesinngwailo

Hoping to get my EP3 tomorrow, will do oil this weekend, and drive belt as pre inspection said it's worn. Is it easy enough to get through Honda here? and for the oil my car won't be tracked (maybe in future) so go with 5W40 ?

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I ran 5w40 before (there was a special on shell helix ultra), but I am sure the 5w30 feels better.

I don't see why you can't run 5w30 in a non-tracked car, as that is the spec of oil that Honda specify. I don't think there is any need to run a 40-weight, unless tracking the car.

I noticed the Clio RS folks run 5w40, but let's be honest, their engine is no K20 now is it? ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JordanMugen

What's so great about Fuchs Titan, if you don't mind me asking (I don't know anything about it)? :)
I am quite happy with Penrite "Racing" oil - it's the cheapest Group 4 based oil you can buy.
I run 5w30 as the fn2 won't see the track (because it's too slow!.........) - the 5w30 has friction modifiers so might pick up a kW or two to help the fn2's glacier-esque (lack of) performance.
I suppose 10w40 would be good for a tracked EP3, that verson doesn't have friction modifiers - either are not bad for $55/bottle on special.

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It is locally made in Australia VIC + NSW and its great, alot of my friends run it in 400kw+ highly tuned cars, So all my dailys have run it and i love the stuff, in the end 95% of EP3 owners ive met all say the same thing 'Its just a daily' so the way i see it get an oil that suits what you do.

I see this alot with people and the facts really are right infront of you, a racing oil or a high performance blend of oil is designed and tested when an engine is being raced and at extremely higher than daily driving temperatures, So if your not seeing the track then your definitely not sitting at 9000RPM as you drive to the shops, So how is a racing oil in anyway suited to your driving? Its not within the heat range.

To break it down further, with the 1way i wasn't to sure which oil to choose alot of internet mechanic forums i found said 80w140 which is suited for track driving, which instantly i wasnt too sure of but im not a FWD person to really know but with the ability to change oil and get oil very easily i figured id test it out, so i got it.. Put it in and it was ABSOLUTELY horrible.. Gear lock out when cold, extremely aggressive on the clutch plates literally the car was way to ruff for my liking, it was just not enjoyable for atleast 5minutes till the oil came to heat which then it was great. The oil was perfectly fine.. But my driving was not suited to it.
But at the same time this is bad until the oil came to optimal range i was causing alot of wear on my gearset and lsd.. With no benefit at all.. Within 10minutes i was at work.. and my daily commute is me driving at 40-60kmh doing stop/start so this wasn't good for what i was doing at all so i had to change.
Cusco even said that this oil should be "Competition" only, which is funny cause there documents dont exactly match up. But thats a different discussion.

So i spoke with some others who said Honda MTF is great and i spoke with Cusco, Cusco said dont use Honda MTF due to aftermarket LSD, And i spoke with people at fuchs and pretty much outlined exactly what i do with the car all said 80w90 which is more street and can be okay for track days also.

Put the 80w90 in and the car was amazing to drive, Followed exactly what cusco said with letting it warm up for the 2minutes which i do anyway and nobody can spot the car has a aftermarket LSD till you make use of it. Drives like standard... and that my friends is what i wanted.
Ive now told a few friends with other FWD cars running aftermarket LSD and street driving and they all love it.

Hopefully this breaks it down a little for you, all oils are good just get what is good for YOU, not the internet mechanics.

Hey All, can anyone confirm the correct part number for the serpentine drive belt for a 2002 EP3R ? I have 7PK1632 ? Honda Blacktown won't look anything up for imports!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tseesinngwailo

Hey All, can anyone confirm the correct part number for the serpentine drive belt for a 2002 EP3R ? I have 7PK1632 ? Honda Blacktown won't look anything up for imports!

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That would be the correct part number for OEM parts
But Gates & Dayco cannot/forbidden to make that length
Aftermarket usually go up by 5mms at a time
The closest you'll get is 1630/35/40/45

OK Thanks, Blacktown Auto Spares have a 7PK1635 so it shouldn't matter to have 3 mm extra? or would i get the 7PK1630 ?I assume adjustment by a few mm is OK either way

^ a few mms is okay.

Normally a tolerance of 10mm is okay. So 3mm is nothing.