Brake Pads + Rotor Combo.

Hey guys,

so interested in peoples opinions on which pads and rotors to use for the S2000.

Apparently people in the US Running Centric Blank brake pads plus OEM AP1 Brake pads, so I was just wondering what would be the best combo for street and some occasional spirited driving and mountain driving and possibly street.

I was looking at some slotted rda/ dba and some ferodo pads, but apparently there not good for the street driving, and build alot of brake dust.

Can people give me the pros/cons on what to get.

Cheers

why are ferodo pads no good for street? load of nonsense

they do dust though.

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Originally Posted by u mad?

why are ferodo pads no good for street? load of nonsense

they do dust though.

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What he said :) they are fine on the street running them my self just dusty that's all

Ferodo DS2500 are fine for street. You may have been reading reviews for the DS3000 and above. Those will eat your rotors on the street as they wont be in the proper temp range.

Nothing wrong with dust :D

Rda/dba blanks with feredo ds2500 using that on my car for street and track really like them

should i even consider slotted or should I just get blanks ?

seems like alot of people are using blanks

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Originally Posted by Giraffe

should i even consider slotted or should I just get blanks ?

seems like alot of people are using blanks

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Blanks will be fine. You don't brake any where near hard enough on the street for slotted

S2000's are known to crack dics under heavie braking, slotted have more weak points so will crack easier.

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Originally Posted by Cartoon

Blanks will be fine. You don't brake any where near hard enough on the street for slotted

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Originally Posted by VTI-RRR

S2000's are known to crack dics under heavie braking, slotted have more weak points so will crack easier.

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thanks for that guys, which blank discs do you guys recommend?

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Originally Posted by VTI-RRR

S2000's are known to crack dics under heavie braking, slotted have more weak points so will crack easier.

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no...

the reason behind cracking is heat. Slotted rotors DO help dissipate heat a little better.

Having said that, most people in the states that heavily track their cars use blanks because the slotted rotors don't last longer enough to justify the extra cost.
For a lot in the states, the cheapest blanks they can buy are the best because the only last a few track days anyway.

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Originally Posted by VTI-RRR

S2000's are known to crack dics under heavie braking, slotted have more weak points so will crack easier.

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I think you're thinking of cross drilled than slotted...

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Originally Posted by daevilone

no...

the reason behind cracking is heat. Slotted rotors DO help dissipate heat a little better.

Having said that, most people in the states that heavily track their cars use blanks because the slotted rotors don't last longer enough to justify the extra cost.
For a lot in the states, the cheapest blanks they can buy are the best because the only last a few track days anyway.

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Heat is definitely the main culprit, but if you look at all cracked slotted rotors - the crack commonly begins from where the slots are :) Even on 2 piece rotors, it can start from the slots or where the rotor ring connects to the hat via the sliding bolts.
On street though even with spirited driving - slotted rotors are fine.

As for pads - if you don't mind a little bit of noise and dust, Project Mu HC+/HC 800 are fantastic performers on and off the track. Responsive, consistent pedal feel and fade resistant - rated from 0-800 degrees with a nice Mu range. But they might be a tiny bit overkill for your needs from the sounds of it?
I'm personally not a fan of the DS2500 as the pedal feel is a bit... void because of the lower initial Mu bite but they do hold up ok otherwise :)

I recently installed a set of dimple drilled and slotted rotors with ebc yellow pads all around teamed up with goodridge braided brake lines and they are absolutely amazing. I had the pads and rotors cryogen treated and have given me a good bite when cold and amazing stopping power when hot. My braking into a corner is much later providing me with corner speed and a more liner feel in the pedal. Dont worry about dust as dust is a small price to pay for a good braking system. You can view pics of my setup on instagram by following me @topl3s

good luck with deciding

I went with these:
http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Bra...000&option=All

http://www.wilwood.com/Images/BrakeK...10309-R-lg.jpg

The oem rotors are fine. If you don't plan on tracking 5+ times a year you are wasting your money. I agree with recommending the hc+ project mu's. They can be noisy with the first push of the pedal but other then that they are fantastic. Easily sourced in Australia for a semi decent price.

If you want a car that stops extremely well, buy good tyres that are suited to your driving conditions.

Mu HC+ and RDA or OEM blank rotors. My setup and stops perfectly. Go for slotted if you want the looks :p. Pads take time to warm up but they bite very well.

im also running ds2500 for street and track. pretty sure it has the same braking coefficient cold and hot (.5) which is why its a perfect street/track pad

yeah sweet, i just got some RDA Slotted F + R/ DS2500 / Hel brake line and OEM Brake fluid, should be sweet.

oem brake fluid to my knowledge isnt rated for track work. it may boil. id recommend putting in high temp fluid. i use penrite Sin for street/track

Hey guys where are you sourcing your oem rotor or something similar, Im running the 300mm rotor up front and completely stuffed a rotor at the track yesterday, cracked all the way back to the stud, got a non matching pair that I can roll with for a few days, cheers

Are you after some rotors? Buy or loan?

I've got my originals and some slotted rotors lying around gathering dust (and probably rust) if you're interested.

Mate interested in both, send me a pm and I'll give ya call, need to get car back on the road asap

Hey Thanks AusS2000 for the old rotors, got me out of a jam, still deciding on whether to blow $$ on Mu's Pro SCR or stick with the cheaper Dixicel/BDA T3s or test some brembo rotors ?? anybody run brembo's ?

This OEM S2000 300mm rotor had only done 20,000km previously, with no visible cracks, did maybe 20 laps on sunday before a 1 lap shootout at the end of the day, consistently in the 43s on sunday, conditions were a little warm (24 C), discovered the crack after an inadequate cool down lap, (less than 1km) had to drive home back to Kensington B-). Tyre's were Z214 soft, pads were Hawk DTC60, Brembo 4 pots of an Acura.

http://madmick3006.com/ahngallery/up...5/bb7aac38.jpg

DAMN thats a crack


step 1 is ducting if you don't already have it.

the consensus in the US is to buy the cheapest blanks you can find as no one could get solid results that spending more cash on rotors equalled more life.

The baller option is the racing brake 2 peice oem sized rotors, or simply a BBK...

Yeah I reckon ductin could be a goer, heaps of space to run it, to be honest Marulan is the tuffest of all the tracks I've seen on brakes, even thou speeds arent above 140kmh, its has 6 heavy braking spots in just over 1km, zero chance for a proper cool down. Gary the owner of Marulan reckons he'd never seen a Crack so wide there before !

ah it was at Marulan. 43 is a good time! I've melted some pads there before, weren't track pads though.

Agree with it being a hard track on brakes though, also on general cooling. I had to take frequent cooldown laps last time I was there.

Yeah its a funny track, cooked fluid their previously when I was running OEM 282mm, was the first time into the 43's and TBO it had the grip to slip into the 42's, Topped the timesheet 2 against 40 odd cars B-)

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Originally Posted by Stevil

Hey Thanks AusS2000 for the old rotors, got me out of a jam

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Pleasure, glad I could help out.

And good to meet you too. Let me know about that Bee Wee.

I have always used slotted rotors and never cracked , I have raced for 12 years with dba or rda, with ebc yellow stuff pads are my choice. Best value for money, others may be SLIGHTLY better but cost twice as much
Never use hawk pads as they embed molten metal into your wheels.