My 95' dc2 vtir is crunching at high revs going from 3rd to 4th? are the syncros on the wait out?
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My 95' dc2 vtir is crunching at high revs going from 3rd to 4th? are the syncros on the wait out?
Probably. Check clutch operation and bleed the clutch hydraulic system if it hasn't been done recently. Change gear oil if it hasn't been done recently. If it still crunches after that, then yeah, synchros or slider/gear dogs are gone.
Cheers chez, say it was the synchros how much would i be looking at bill wise?
It's 99% the synchros , which it typical for this gearboxes . If you are in Sydney , come over and we will check it for you and give you a full quote . We do all the time gearbox rebuilts .
Here is also a link :
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...s-gears-etc%29 . We supply and fit parts .
If you are in Melbourne talk to Josh@Sleeping . But if you are in Adelaide go to Sam so he can see it on the spot .
Im in brisbane mate, bummer :(
What is a rough quote for syncros?
or does it depend each job
There are variables but I charge around $1600 for all bearings, seals, small parts, all synchros and all sleeves. This includes a properly shimmed diff and input assembly, bead blasted case, hot tanked gears etc. basically good as new. Some charge less.
1600 sounds cheap for a specialised gearbox mechanic. regular workshops usually charge customers above 2k
Natey , I would suggest then to do all the steps that Sam has suggested as they are the most cost effective and then if it still continues you will need synchros (suggesting to also change bearings , cause it will be open)
We charge depending on the engine . As there is price difference between the parts for Bseries to the Kseries as well as in any other series .
@mocchi , since you are in Melbourne , have you talked to Josh@sleepingperformance ?!
what the hell are you talking about lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Extremer!
I am just reffering to your comment that some other workshops charge 2K and I am just suggesting in similar situation , to talk to Josh , cause he does a really good job and doesn't over charge . I know and understand that you just wanted to mention that the price of Sam is cheap , it was just a refference , nothing more .
Here's a review from members http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...ed-them-before. I've never used them personally, but at one time there was a club in Brisbane called HondaOz and HondaCare used to host a Saturday check your car out day for their members, worth a try.
ohQuote:
Originally Posted by Extremer!
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/customa...ar28992_21.gif
Mocchi, if you're in Melbourne, try giving OTRD A call. Good workmanship and prices
guise stop telling me to call people i dont have broken gearbox
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/customa...ar11984_26.gif
PM Vvvtec or TbM, they own pnp auto in brissy.Quote:
Originally Posted by Natey
instead of giving you a gearbox quote, they will try to convince you to do a K swapQuote:
Originally Posted by RenzokukenJ
Rebuild vs secondhand(lowish k's) gearbox + install, which would be more cost efficient(im a poor teenager)
A hard question to answer objectively. Used G/box. Any guarantee of condition or K's (proof)? Can you drive it before it comes out? Any return policy? (extra expense to you if it has to come out for return). Cost difference between used + fitting and reco'ed + fitting? How long do you intend to keep the vehicle to justify the difference in price of a reco to get the value out of it. Will the used box give you the peace of mind that a reco would?
Unfortunately only you can answer these questions.
So i got it checked out, gearbox is shagged apparently. where do i go from here?
As you've mentioned in your first post that the crunching is at high revs and you're financially challenged, if it's running reasonably OK otherwise, just lay off the hard shifting and keep it going till you can afford to do something about it. Not what you bought it for, no doubt, but in the circumstances..................
Rebuild the box you have then go have some fun
I'm in the same situation, busted box and not sure to rebuild or second hand box. Chez/stndrd from your experience, whats a rough estimate on rebuilding a S80 (itr) gearbox? including all the gears (1-R) not just synchros and bearings.
It'd be unusual to replace all the gears, they don't really wear out like other components in a gearbox do. The only ones that usually need replacing are the final drive (they strip), and sometimes 2nd (worn engagement dogs) or third gear (thrust damage). The cost would be inhibitive to replace all gears, you'd be better off either buying a second hand box and rebuilding that, or buying a brand new complete gearbox, or even getting an aftermarket gear set from gearX or something. I'd get it checked out 'on the bench' so that it can be properly quoted on. James at Extreme Project World is in Sydney, and is a trader on here who rebuilds them regularly.Quote:
Originally Posted by cceebz
cceebz , is the gearbox still on the car ?! If so you could bring it over , so we can go for a test drive and go from there . As chez00 says it will be really expensive changing all the gears except if you go with shorter gears etc. .
Need someone in Brisbane to offer me their services?
pm vvvtec or tbm.
they can help you easy.
vvvtec messages are full :(
Ill pm u soon natey.
FixedQuote:
Originally Posted by Vvvtec
Inb4 six speed
Natey - before you spend too much money try this simple fix - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mZsuorFV6EU
I know it seems like it might not work but I tried it with my LSVTEC that I've built; B16a gearbox was crunching really badly on the 2nd to 3rd shift at 6500+ rpm up shifts.
I can tell you it was a significant crunch too - my mate in a Evo 6 in the next lane heard it when we took off from the lights on night......
I did this simple fix and now have a further 15,000km on the car with no issues - no more high speed crunch.
In case the link doesn't work - what you do is start the car (DO NOT DO THIS IN YOUR GARAGE) find someplace with a bit of room in front of the car; pull the handbrake on tight - really tight; then without pressing the clutch pedal in, select the gear that the crunch is happening in - eg if its 3 to 4; push the gear selector towards 4th gear - don't push it so hard that you actually go into gear but press it to the point that you see the rpms on the car dip your just prelaoding the tops of the synchro cones and allowing them to be deglazed, hold it in this position for about 1 to 2 minutes and then release; reapply again 1 to 2 minutes after waiting about 3 minutes; and a 3rd and final time.
As mentioned above once the synchro rings cones have been deglazed they will allow the oil in the gearbox to 'bite' better and help the next gear get up to speed prior to the change in gear hence no more crunch.
Take the car out and see whether your gear crunch has gone.
This will cost you nothing other than your time and you might feel a bit stupid if you push too hard and stick it into gear - hence the handbrake being on and stalling the car.
It seriously worked on my B16a - I was right at the point of pulling the box to drop the synchros and replace.
1ht86teg, this worked a charm... no more grinding?
Hi Natey,
Is the 'box still performing well? Would hope so as my LSV is all good still without the grind/crunch.