Printable View
Was wondering if anyone has ever rebuilt their engine's at a workshop, not DIY! How much did it cost in total for labour + parts?
I've tried looking all over for information on the costs associated with it but can't seem to find any, would be great if someone could point me to a previous discussion that I missed.
You need to tell us what spec you're rebuilding to... Standard Refresh? High Comp NA? Turbo/Supercharged? Stroker?
And what parts you intend to buy new, reuse [Caution with what you reuse], etc etc etc...
Amount of machine work, etc etc etc...
Next time search lad.
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...e-New-amp-Used.
I was looking for the same thing aswell for rebuilding I got quoted from 3.5k-6k depending on labour cost etc.
Contact MSC in northside, they can hook you up with a pre-rebuilt engine.
Sorry about that, just to rebuild as a standard refresh, with brand new stock parts.Quote:
Originally Posted by DreadAngel
hahaha cheers mate but no F20C :pQuote:
Originally Posted by amant02
Thanks mate, so 3.5k - 6k for a complete rebuild to stock specs with brand new OEM?Quote:
Originally Posted by Giraffe
No need to say sorry, just saying we need as much information as possible to give you the best answer.Quote:
Originally Posted by arcenite
3.5k will be for a very basic rebuild, would say 6k rebuild + some machine work like port and polish, head decking, CC Adjustment, etc...
Well you certainly couldn't complain about that. I spent a bit more than $6K rebuilding to as new, with lots of new parts, my old Triumph TR7 engine.
It is so good now, that with just a little bit of luck, it should have almost half the power of my S2000.
Cheers mate, so I would be looking at $7k tops then prob? Is that inclusive of labour?Quote:
Originally Posted by DreadAngel
hahaha but nothing like a good ol' vintage carQuote:
Originally Posted by Hasbeen
Like previously mentioned ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by arcenite
Depends on spec...
stock specs mate :DQuote:
Originally Posted by DreadAngel
$7K I would say involves a fair bit of machine work etc...
$3-4k would be stock spec with clean up machine work, replacement of consumables [Gaskets, Seals, Water Pump, etc] cleaning up of running parts, etc.
Been a while since I've done stuff like this so maybe wrong but shouldn't be too far off either.
Good stuff mate :)Quote:
Originally Posted by DreadAngel
How come you are looking to rebuild?
Just want to know what the possible additional costs are like when buying a cheap s2k :)
Building back to oem spec - ~5k
The car's more likely to have been in accidents from the rear letting loose than have a dead motor.
If you were to buy a cheap s2k with engine troubles and spend 5k on a rebuild, would it not have been wiser to just spend the extra money on a good s2k to begin with?
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/customa...ar29948_16.gifQuote:
Originally Posted by Super-DA9
that wise old owl
good excuse for engine swap
sr20 or 2 jay z
sr20? you cheeky kunt lol
sr20det i mean
not groce na
Yeah definitely, just weighing my options at the moment. I've been bringing in s2k's to workshops only to look at crappy comp's, even though the body's straight.Quote:
Originally Posted by Super-DA9
Will never swap an F20C for an SR20DET :sQuote:
Originally Posted by EKVTIR-T
Ahh shiet really? what kind of compression figures were they getting?Quote:
Originally Posted by arcenite
Highest were 215, lowest was 190 for a 122,xxx km one way past 5% differences. Currently about to check a 100,xxx hopefully I'll get better results.Quote:
Originally Posted by Super-DA9
To get a low km's 70,xxx k's could cost $22,000 and up and compression may not even be close to perfect. In contrast, I could get a cheap $15,000 one, use the engine until it fails and rebuild it, giving me a brand new engine. But this is assuming both chassis are straight etc., and the only difference are engine comp's.
So far it's difficult to find an S with decent engine comps, most of them have been flogged, burning oil etc. I haven't seen a bent chassis as of yet, regardless of mileage.
The engine comps might be off but if it doesn't lose much oil and drives well enough - would you really spend 5000?
You are buying an old car don't forget
This is good advice. Anything above 200 seems okay to me, but also remember compression testers are supposed to be used to check for consistency between cylinders, they aren't completely reliable when it comes to max figures.Quote:
Originally Posted by curtis265
Yeah if they're all consistently above 200 and within 5-10% that's fine, I'm aware that it's an old car so I'll be happy with anything above 200. But if it's more than 10% apart between highest and lowest, it's just a ticking time bomb. If one cylinder's 215 and the other 190, it's not been taken care of at some point during its life. I'd want an engine that's been warmed up/down properly and has had regular oil changes.Quote:
Originally Posted by curtis265
I'm only willing to spend that money if it's really cheap lol, I'm just weighing my options at the moment so I'm fully aware of the costs involved down the road if required. Instead of just buying one and then go oh sh*t later on hahaha.
Yeah they're meant to fall within 5-10% between the highest and lowest. But the closer they are the betterQuote:
Originally Posted by Super-DA9
Yeah that's right. Consistency is a good indicator of how well it's been maintained as you stated.Quote:
Originally Posted by arcenite
So sad to see S2000's that haven't been taken care of =/, there're so few in Australia.Quote:
Originally Posted by Super-DA9