Replacing 2003-2006 Dual Zone HVAC/Radio/CD Head unit with a 10.6" Surface Pro2

I'd thought I'd post a bit of this install as part of it pertains to controlling Dual zone HVAC after the Radio/CD Head unit has been removed.

I started another thread on removal and basic modifications here:http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...VAC-Head-unit.

More information here: Gen 7 HvacRelocate2

I've removed that 5 year old Car-PC system which was quite complex and requires a lot of wiring from the trunk which was the location of the PC, DAB/FM radio, Phone, Audio DSP, Audio AMP, various micro controllers for PC shutdown, start up, remote volume and 2nd battery control and more.

Here are the first pictures of the cut down HVAC board with HVAC remote control interface and optional PC interface - all in the now very small compact HVAC control unit. It's the Grey plastic box in the middle of the picture, the two green OEM HVAC Plugs & cables can reach to the top of the opening.

There are a number of locations where this smaller board will now easily fit. For anyone not familiar with the Audio/HVAC unit, it completely fills the area from just below the AC outlet vents near the top of the picture and down below the bottom of the picture. The HVAC board, before I cut it half, was almost the same size as the opening, it looks so small now because it is now mounted on the back wall of the opening.

http://www.brisdance.com/Honda/images/HvacPcbInCar.jpg


Side view to give an idea of depth - The Grey cable on the right is the Audio interface cable just hanging around after I removed everything.

http://www.brisdance.com/Honda/images/HvacPcbDepth.jpg


Same as above.
http://www.brisdance.com/Honda/images/HvacPcbDepth1.jpg

I have the Surface pro2 working on the test bench with everything plugged in. The next step is to run the 3 required cables to the rear mounted USB components which again are - Mobile Phone module, USB DAB/FM Radio module, USB DAC Module for audio from the tablet, USB DSP audio processor, and Remote volume/ AMP mute/Audio source control and mixing (PC- Phone - Radio) module along with USB power control.

Only wires needed from the front mounted tablet are 2 USB cables, one going to a 6 port HUB and the second USB cable dedicated to the Audio DAC, and the 3rd wire is for some hardware feedback status.

Here is the basic layout of this system - Not shown is the Hardware Control/Display for the Climate Control in the event of a computer failure.

http://www.brisdance.com/Honda/image...let-Layout.jpg

serious work there.
Good job.

Awesome work. i love this level of commitment. I am suprised there aren't more manufacturers bringing out 7" Car DVD Players running Android and the facility to run an internal 2.5" hard drive (to keep it small). If they use a quick start Operating system it shouldn't be much of an inconvenience for the person using it.

Would love to see how you go with this. Subscribed :)

Fredoops, cl9_luxury, thanks for comments.

Biggest problem for the Dual Zone Climate 2003-2007 Accords, is that you can't fit anything in place of the OEM Head unit - Well there are some Chinese units that are supposed to replicate the OEM Climate Control system, but of course they don't. Single AIR Accords models are easy - Full climate control is a different beast.

Lot of guys doing Android tablets in the lower cubby or mounted in a modified AC-Vent cover top unit. This is all fine if you just want a GPS-Media-Connected device but not if you want to interface to, for example, the OEM Climate Control Microprocessor as I am doing - and you have to if you remove the Accord Head Unit - or integrate a DAB-FM module or interface directly with various vehicle sub systems - and not be limited by OBD2.

I hope to have everything but the Tablet in by the weekend, the tablet will be mounted in a basic test frame until I work out viewing angles / tilt and how deep to recess it. Also need to get the Vehicles PWM dash-light signal controlling the Tablets Backlight for correct Night time viewing. I had this with my Previous install and feel that it's an absolute must have. The Front End software completely hides the fact that it's a Tablet, it looks and behaves like an integrated Head Unit. I'll get post pictures as the install progresses, hopefully in a positive direction -still a bit of SW re-coding and hardware to sort out though.

FYI for anyone into DIY electronics and Car computers.

Ran in to a few problems with the +5v USB supply:

The 30A device I had on hand has a FATAL FLAW in the design - As 12v dips below its input level threshold - think starting SOME vehicles - this Switch mode supply pulls (not drops) but actually pulls its output +5v rail to ground for a few hundred milliseconds. That means any USB HUB that passes the TABLET or PCs +5v USB voltage will cause the TABLET or PC to see a momentary short to ground. Even if a HUB doesn't pass +5v (most do) it will causes OS corruption as some drivers fail as ALL USB devices either reset or power up in an indeterminate state.

I didn't want to waste time for something on line to be delivered, so I decided to build one myself.

This is so simple and ended up having a really elegant way to power the HUB's under full control of the Tablet/PC.

This supply is simply an LM2576 - either an adjustable version or a fixed 5v output version. I could only get the Adjustable version which adds two resistors to the build. Local Jaycar had them at a rip off price of $14.00 but it's 5 minutes away so I went for it.

Circuit is simple - the Fixed 5v version only needs 4 external components.

Input is 7 to 40 volts. - I can get down to 6.5 volts and still hold 5v with USB fully loaded.

Output is 5volts @ 3A. You can also get a 5A version.

http://www.brisdance.com/Honda/images/SM5VUSB3s.jpg

Now the best part, this device has a ENABLE pin, however the logic needs to be inverted with a transistor (as I've shown in the crude drawing) This simple control solves all timed start-up and shutoff problems that I was going to have with the other inverter.

Reason: Some of the 12 USB devices and 3 HUBS that I have connected to the ONE USB output available on the Surface Pro 2 Tablet, are very particular about supply rail timing with USB data flow.

How: In the 1st HUB, I simply unsoldered the +5 USB wire that's in the cable connecting the HUB to the Tablets USB port.

This does two things:

1: Stops the Tablet or PC from trying to supply 1.3A to the USB devices (before the HUBs are powered) - and therefore corrupting the USB devices and its own port.

2: The unused +5v line from the tablet now controls the enable line, this turns the 3A 5v USB supply on and off fast enough to look exactly like the Tablets own 5v supply timing.

Yes you can power the USB ports first - BUT - as I have found out the hard way, every so often a USB device will disappear or be incorrectly initialised. Then you have the problem of when to power off the external 5v USB - you have to wait until the PC/Tablet has powered down or Hibernated - this time varies, before removing 5v USB power.

With this simple mod, as soon as the Tablet or PC powers on it immediately enables the 3A USB supply via the Tablets USB 5v output. When a Tablet or PC is ready to power off, it drops USB 5v, which immediately switches the external USB supply off.
No relays, no timing problems - simple!

Another bonus - NO interference to DAB or GPS signals like other commercial devices I have used.

Small Update:

Got the rear control unit almost finished and running on the bench. This unit fits behind the Amplifier in the rear left recess in the trunk.

http://www.brisdance.com/Honda/images/BootCtrl.jpg


Also the installed DAB-FM radio, Mobile Phone and Hands free echo canceller mounted underneath the rear parcel tray. Easy to get at, easy to replace or work on. Completely out of the way, far below the level of the speakers and the rear seatbelt housing.

http://www.brisdance.com/Honda/images/TrunkLayout.jpg


There is almost nothing to mount in the front of the vehicle - Just one HUB and a couple of USB cables. The two GPS receivers are in one case and share an external aerial so that's just two USB plugs. Same for the HVAC and Vehicle interface Controls micro.

Only real wiring is the connector to the Controls micro running to the trunk I/O box on the rear controller. Once again on this install I retain the iDrive system I built that sits between the front seats and controls everything without the need to touch the screen - obviously full steering wheel button control retained, a REAL volume control - and auto volume level with vehicle speed.

Also new layout:

I got totally sick of the USB DAC not randomly initialising or chopping sound for no reason. Tried the Line out from the Tablet and it's as good as the DAC on this unit, tested with my high quality double shielded audio cables from the front to the trunk mounted Amp / DSP unit and it's perfect - no noise just perfect.

New Layout:

http://www.brisdance.com/Honda/image...et-Option3.jpg

Some damn fine work going into all this,....well done indeed!

Finished the following recoding my FE. FE = Front end Software. IE Software that makes it look and act like a fancy vehicle integrated display screen/head unit.

1. Auto Reverse camera detection, capture and display.

2. Auto selection and control of DAB or FM aerial relay.

3. Auto Hibernate - Sleep or Shutdown (depends on what default action has been preselected in FE setup - totally independent of Windows settings.

4. Auto selection of Phone/DAB-FM audio and override of DAB-FM audio when Phone rings or is in use.

5. Auto Enable of the 4ch Amplifier under FE control and auto Disable on Tablet (FE) closing, no noise clicks or pops.

6. General recoding for the - totally simplified - power on/off requirements with a Tablet.


Thing of interest:

A: Total USB and Tablet consumption in Sleep is 3.5 watts.

B: Total USB power when running is 7.6 watts.

With the vehicle in accessory position and listening to music, radio or doing a bit of web surfing, total computer power is 7.6 watts. Add amplifier consumption, dependant on volume of course. The Tablet runs on it's internal battery in Accessory position and will last 5 to 6 hours. In other words, the vehicle battery should see no more that a typical head unit.

Power on to FE running with music playing is 6.5 seconds from Hibernate.

From sleep - well - it's almost instant.

Cold Boot is around 3 seconds - BUT - it takes time for all background tasks to complete.


BTW I ended up having to do a work around for this POS Video capture device for the Reverse camera.

The problem is with the driver to Hardware capture device interface. The capture device/driver makes the familiar sound of a USB device being plugged in at resume or cold boot, it then either works or fails with a message that the USB hub has device with no HW identifier and the device itself disappears from available Video devices.

There is no way to software reset or restart a device that is not there - resetting the unknown USB device in device manager Hub list does nothing because the Device hardware is locked and will only operate if physically removed and reconnected.

Solution A: Get a different device, but most appear to be a few years old in design and based on Win7 drivers (as this one is) although stated to be verified as working in Win8.

Solution B: I fitted a tiny 3 pole relay (5 volts, Data +, Data -) in an equally small case in line between the Capture device and the USB port - actually looks quite good - it's controlled by my FE.

I coded the FE to energise the relay for 500ms, this disconnect and reconnects the Capture device - same as unplugging. It does this as soon as the FE has control, no more problems or hangs when the reverse Display SW tries to talk to the flaky driver in an indeterminate state, or shows nothing because the device has not initialised. Ridiculous that I have to go to this trouble.

Anyway - everything is now working 100% - all I need to do is terminate the control plug in the trunk and plug this Rear control unit in.

Next is fitting a new control interface processor to my version of an iDrive that is sitting in the console between the front seats - going to re do this once everything is in and running, then its on to fitting the Tablet.

This needs to be stickied

Small Update:

More delays - very hot weather - too hot to work on the Vehicle. However the delay was a blessing as it gave me time to reprogram the Controls microprocessor interface and mount it in my old iDrive panel, which will revamped in the near future.

Here are a few (poor pictures) as I'm trying to take a quick photo without a stand (it's around here somewhere) in low light so that the tablet screen is not black from the flash.

This is the complete system running and connected as it would be in the vehicle.

All vehicle wiring has been run and terminated. I've also taken the time to document everything, draw the circuits and every connector and wire colour. A slow tedious process but so important down the track.

http://www.brisdance.com/Honda/images/BenchRunning.jpg


Below - Final finished trunk mounted control unit.

Messy wires running to LEDS are for TEST indicating Status of:
Amplifier mute, Switched 12v to DAB and Active aerial, DAB -FM aerial, and reverse detect.
http://www.brisdance.com/Honda/images/FinalBootCtrl.jpg

My old iDrive panel with the new controller mounted underneath:

This completely controls the Tablet Front End software (FE) without the need to touch the "touch screen".
Includes a real digital volume control with press touch mute/unmute.

http://www.brisdance.com/Honda/images/iDriveNewCtl.jpg

FYI for anyone interested in more technical information:

This is the circuit of the Controls Micro and iDrive panel. Combined with it is the Rear Trunk control panel. Tends to make it look more complex that it really is.

Of interest is the Digital Pot (variable resistor / volume control) I found. Very simple device to use and can be used on it own with two buttons. I'm driving it from the control micro, the micro is decoding an optical rotary encoder (volume control). The FE also drives the device via the control micro and this is used to auto adjust audio levels with noise and speed.

http://www.brisdance.com/Honda/images/DataSwitchNEW.gif

Finally - Trunk Control unit installed: See Post 11 for a picture of the tablet and the system running on the test bench.

Wires lying around are for Amplifier speakers, power, remote on/off (mute) and 1 of the 5 audio leads - 4 short leads from the bottom of the control board (4Ch DSP out) are not connected as yet.

http://www.brisdance.com/Honda/images/TrunkCtrlin.jpg

Below - the amplifier connected and locked in place over the control unit.

The trunk install is finished but for a cover plate over the Audio cables.

http://www.brisdance.com/Honda/images/AmpandCtrlIn.jpg

I just powered the system up for the for the time in the vehicle - always an anxious moment - waiting for smoke, or worse :eek:

A few weeks ago I managed to get an old Radio board, the only purpose was to get the Head unit interface Socket off the board so I could use it to just plug this new install into the existing Head unit cable with No other connections to the Vehicle. This gives me lights on/off, Dash lights PWM (brightness), Accessory 12v, Steering Wheel control line and ground. I have also linked the front left/right speaker pins in the socket to the rear left/right socket pins lines. This means the rear speaker connectors are now front left and right speaker lines. The Amplifier is in the trunk and of course drives the rear speakers directly and now the front speakers via the bridged lines. No extra cables.

This is such a neat simple install as far as interfering with the vehicle existing wiring, now there are no taps or changes to anything in the vehicle wiring looms.

It powered up perfectly: :)

I was eager to hear the sound (noise really) as I'm running audio out from the Tablet back to the Trunk mounted audio mixer, audio switcher, DSP and Amplifier - I was forced to do this because of troubles with USB Audio DACS I had tried, anyway with special heavy duty doubled shielded cables (only audio cables I'll use in a vehicle) its PERFECT, absolutely no noise, as clean as.

Big plus - DAB - FM sensitivity has improved 100% - far more that I had hoped for - No Video cables, noisy Mainboards and their dirty switch mode supplies and circuits to interfere with signals.

Now comes the Hard part - Mounting of the Tablet should be relatively easy but the Dash insert - That is going to take some time and effort but because of the results - I'm really looking forward to getting it completed.

As soon as I get the backing plate in I'll post a video of the system running.

Did a test drive yesterday - everything worked, however it will take a few trial and error fitments to get the best angle for viewing the reflective screen of these Tablets.

Warning Technical info on testing of the charger and thoughts on charging current and voltage.

There are 3 wired connected between the AC charger and the SP2 charging connection.

The centre pin is a sense connection (very thin wire) anyone trying to make sense of this without a CRO (oscilloscope) will be confused.

This line is a control line for the AC charger from the SP2 and is a 5v pulse that is present whenever the battery is charging. Without this connection the AC charger limits the available current and chops between 0 and 12 volts.

As you may know the SP2 battery can get quite hot when charging and testing the AC adaptor on a 78% charge reveals a DC input of 11.65 volts @ 3.3A.

Do you want this kind of charging current in a vehicle situation? I don't, as I believe it could shorten the life of the battery?

Testing with a current limited (3A) DC bench supply on an SP2 with 78% battery indicates:

SP switches to Charging @ 8.6V

Switches back to Battery @ 5V

Current @ 8.4V = 3mA

Current @ 8.6V = 800mA

Current @ 9V = 1.8A

Current @ 10v > 3A

As the SP2 Battery charges and current drops below 1.7A (fixed supply of 9V) the internal charging circuit starts chopping the charge current? Increasing the voltage and increasing the charge current to 1.7A stops it chopping.

Seems like it wants a min of 1.7A charging current and this may be what normally happens when the battery is charged to 100% - once it gets close to 100% charging current drops and increasing the voltage does not increase current above the Tablet power requirements.

Interesting point: The SP2 will switch to external power and not charge - but still runs from the external source.

The SP2 @95% charge, drawing 800mA from the Ext DC supply and "not charging" was set to Hibernate: Current dropped from 800mA to 25ma. So holding charge current is 25mA and when powered up, the SP2 is running from the external charging supply.

In the process of testing:

SP2 @ 100% - dropped DC voltage until current is around 25mA.
Wait to see what % of charge is reached before current increases and at what level the battery sits.

Goal: To determine the best voltage to use for holding the battery at near 100% while the external DC supply fully powers the SP2 - looks to be around 8.6 to 9 volts.

Thought so far:

I can use a simple linear 5A 3 terminal Voltage regulator - $6.00 - (no need for another noisy switch mode supply) add a current limit of say 1.5A and we should be good to go.

At the moment it's reporting Battery 96% charged - AC plugged in @ 96% and NOT charging.

Results to follow.

Hi Mike...don't know of many TO3 package 3 terminal regulators that can handle 5A. I think most are rated to 3A but this is not continuous...or is with good active cooling! Yes you should be good to 1.5A...but just!

Brendan

Hi Brendan, yes the backing plate and compartment for the tablet it a big sheet of thick aluminium so cooling for a T03 device is not a problem. I'll be adding current limiting to 2A in any case so even a 3A device will be fine. Most current it will see will be charging and from then on around 800mA. Allowing for an input from the Alternator of 14.8v max and dropping this via a protection diode to around 14.3v will see around 6V @ 1A. Worst case has been 1.8A. Alternator output usually varies around 13.2V to 13.8V after a few minutes depending on load 90% of the time, so 90% of the time looking at 5V @ <1A. Will not be a problem.

Edit: Found - LM338 1-32V @ 5A, TO-3, will be easy to add current limit and set the desired Output voltage - which after further testing is 9V.

Yep, well done. PDIP across the regulator @3A will be 14.8V - 9V = 5.8V x 3A ~ 17.5Watts. So, well within the TO3 specs. Even better if you use a Schottky for reverse protection as this will drop VIN, 14.8V, by around .4V ~.6V or so.

This is looking real nice indeed! Well done.

Brendan

Thanks, slowly getting there, BTW max current will be limited to 1.8A so worst case is 11W and 90% of the time <9W.

1. Basically finished the backing plate and almost set on the position.

2. Made a vehicle Charger/PSU for the Tablet.

It's night time and I just fired the system up after installing the Charger/PSU, couldn't wait till morning, besides fire is easier to see at night :eek: So I snapped the 1st picture of the Tablet sitting on the Backing plate with everything connected and running. Again bad photo - no flash.

The Cover plate clips in and follows the curve of the dash. This is just the outer shell in aluminium, once I'm happy with it I'll be moulding curved and bevelled side pieces, again this is right at the start of making the cover plate/tablet surround so don't expect anything flash.

I was surprised just how much curvature is in the dash which is evident in the photo, this was never going to be a flush install in any case but from this rough picture I hope you get the idea.

http://www.brisdance.com/Honda/images/TabletDash1.jpg

FYI just a few of the (FE) Front End software features:

Auto Hibernates when vehicle is switched off. Auto mute/unmute on close, open and cranking.

The Mode button on the steering wheel switches (scrolls) through Phone, HVAC, GPS and Home screens and Radio or Music screen - whichever is active, each is announced so no need to take my eyes of the road.

Passenger and Driver temps are adjusted by the iDrive encoder (when the HVAC screen is showing) and temperature is announced - again no need to look.

Steering wheel Channel up and down buttons change song or DAB-FM station, the iDrive encoder and buttons between the seat control everything as well.

When GPS is showing, iDrive encoder zooms the Map in or out, changes view etc.

When Music player is on screen the iDrive encoder Scrolls the play list and pressing the encoder select a song.

If Phone rings and caller is in the phone book then Phone screen auto selects and call is answered with announcement of caller name, music/radio mutes/pauses and when call ends it unmutes and returns to the last screen.

If caller is unknown - auto switched to Phone screen, mutes as before and displays the Phone number (if available) one press of the iDrive encoder answers, another press hangs up.

Of course all of this can be controlled by the touch screen.

OMG

that is awsome

always wished someone would mod a honda with a tablet.

please post up some youtube vids.

does this look like it also applies to the Accord Euro CL9?

We have the same interior so yes

Fredoops & kryptonite, thanks for nice feedback.

FYI here is the prototype car cradle and SP2 tablet power button on/off control using a solenoid.

I eventually came up with a way to control the tiny SP2 On/Off button. There are enough problems with the power button on a Tablet without the SP2 throwing a sloping side panel and button at you, it causes the SP2 to try and shift upwards away from the pressure being applied to the switch, add to this the fact that the switch have VERY LITTLE travel before it operates and it becomes a pain if there is any movement in the tablet, this last prototype works even if the tablet tries to shift, as you will see from the video there's not much holding the SP2 down, it's own weight actually.

Fortunately I have room behind the top of the cradle to allow a medium size solenoid to be used and room for 4" leaver. Relatively small solenoids (such as this one) have a limited range of movement and there is very little torque at start - they need a small amount of slack movement to start if the load is tight. There is also a trade off between the amount of movement and the fulcrum point that allows the solenoid to move the switch.

Anyway it works. The Video shows the solenoid being energised to turn the SP2 on and off. In the vehicle the SP2 is turned off via the Front End Software through Window services. The solenoid is only used to bring it out of Hibernate, Shutdown etc or to Force a shutdown if there is a SW/HW problem. Either way it will be under control of the Controls Microprocessor.

The cradle is just lying on the desk and as it's very light it moves easily so any awkward looking movement of the docking slide is due to this.

The slide now allows me to have the main curved facia fixed, the only removable part will be the tablet surround insert. This has greatly simplified the install and makes removing the SP2 tablet simple and quick. There will be a small leaver coming from the bottom of the Docking slide through the lower face plate so that the docking plate is not accessed through the small opening left for the Tablet surround insert.

If you look at the top left of the tablet when I pick up the 12v solenoid cable you will see the mechanical leaver press the on/off button.

Turn on.
http://www.brisdance.com/Honda/Video...SP2CradleA.AVI

Turn Off.
http://www.brisdance.com/Honda/Video...SP2CradleB.AVI

FYI a few pictures to give an idea of how the SP2 mounts and the removal process.

First a picture of the Tablet sitting on the Docking Cradle plate without the Dash Cover plate. The Dash cover plate will be fixed in place and fills and follows the shape of the existing dash.

The Docking slide is at the bottom of the Tablet, the opening below is part of the aluminium frame I have built that follows the inside cavity from top to bottom, it bolts in place using the existing bolt holes and attachment points as the OEM lower Pocket and upper Radio/CD/HVAC control unit. Behind the Tablet Cradle is a shelf that holds the 10 port USB2/3 HUB and at the top of the frame behind the top part of the tablet is the Charger/supply for the SP2.

http://www.brisdance.com/Honda/images/Sp2NoCoverA.jpg

Now a view of the SP2 sitting in the Cradle with the outer fixed Dash cover plate installed. At the bottom of the opening is the Docking slide that holds the USB plug and the Audio Line out plug.

I haven't made the cover trim insert as yet, it will sit over the outer fixed Dash cover plate and will clip in and hold the tablet against the Cradle plate and basically lock it in position.

When installing the Tablet, it is held by the lower edge and placed into the cradle, top first, and raised slightly, the tablet is then placed flat in the cradle and sits on the lower pedestal, it can't move as it's held in a frame, there is plenty of room to raise the docking slide with one finger and the tablet is ready to go. Place the (unmade) cover trim into the opening and the tablet is locked in place.

Removal is the opposite, remove cover trim, lower the slide (it can only move an inch) and lift the tablet out through the opening. This is a 5 second task.

http://www.brisdance.com/Honda/images/Sp2wCover.jpg

Below is the Tablet removed from the docking Cradle, the Docking slide is slightly out of view.

http://www.brisdance.com/Honda/images/Sp2Removed.jpg


All of this has to cleaned up and parts of it redone, these were the prototypes to get everything fitted correctly, It all comes out like removing the OEM Radio/CD/HVAC unit and lower pocket, only a lot easier. I'd estimate a 5 minute job to remove it all.

Now on to the fun part - making everything look nice.

I've been doing a bit of driving with it and so far everything has been working perfectly.

Couple of quick shots of the fixed outer Dash cover plate filled and painted black - soon to be vinyl wrapped. Before that, I'm going to attempt to make the removable Trim insert plate in fibreglass and use the fixed outer Dash plate as the base to shape the fibreglass and get a perfect fit.

Below is one of the Diagnostic screens: This one has the new Surface Pro2 Battery Monitor, Lower Left Meter currently showing 100% - Its blue so it means the SP2 is running from Vehicle DC and not charging, The meter colour changes to RED if the SP2 is on Batteries and changes to GREEN when charging. The Diagnostic screens are bought up via a switch in the centre console.

http://www.brisdance.com/Honda/images/Sp2wCoverBL.jpg

Below is the full HVAC screen.
http://www.brisdance.com/Honda/images/Sp2wCoverBLH.jpg

Below: GPS screen was so bright it closed iris on cheap camera.
http://www.brisdance.com/Honda/images/Sp2wCoverBLG.jpg

Below is the DAB Radio screen with colour info/picture decoder.
http://www.brisdance.com/Honda/images/Sp2wCoverBLR.jpg

Thought I'd post a view of the centre console cavity of the Honda. Now I know the metal work may not look pretty but I'm limited to the tools I have - a drill, a bench vice and a few hammers, and the metal work has gone through a few alterations as I trialled the best way to get the tablet mounted.

As indicated in the text on the picture, all this installs and removes similar to the OEM Head unit and lower pocket. I have made this from aluminium - fairly thick for rigidity. The lower opening is filled with a large "C" section shaped aluminium frame, mounted on top is the 10 port USB HUB. Behind the "C" shaped enclosure/bracket are the SRS computer and various cables. The "C" section leaves over an inch space between it and the Vehicle cables and controllers behind it. There is plenty of room for other devices in this "C" shaped enclosure. When the SP2 Cradle mounting plate is installed it mounts across the top Bracket down to the top of this "C" enclosure and ties the two together to form a very rigid and strong unit.

Virtually the only connections into the Vehicle wiring is the Audio HVAC head unit Plug, I removed a socket from an old radio board so that I could just plug it in. There are only 4 cables coming from the trunk - 5volt USB power, Audio cable, USB to the rear HUB and the Control interface cable. The Control cable goes straight to the iDrive panel between the front seats.

The white USB drive plugged into the HUB is for Password security - It auto logs into the OS from a cold boot, later I'll incorporate a key fob transponder.

Half way down you can see the cut down Climate-Control / Audio head unit PCB (in the grey enclosure) None of this would have been possible without successfully cutting that in half.

http://www.brisdance.com/Honda/images/BehindCradle2.jpg

Finally I'd like to repeat the fact that DAB and FM reception has improved out of sight with the Tablet install. Those of you who have looked at my old system will know that I built an RF shielded case for the M4 switch mode supply, and mounted the mini-ATX PC in the trunk with the PSU, and both inside another large aluminium case - I virtually eliminated interference from the PSU but could not get rid of all the noise from the MB and numerous cables.

Dismantled the install in the dash - cleaned up all metalwork and painted - reinstalled and grabbed this shot. Still without the trim insert but certainly clean (or is that vacant) when the Tablet is not running.

BTW Flash darkens everything a bit - IE the mats and seats are CLEAN light cream.

http://www.brisdance.com/Honda/images/SP2FullDash1.jpg

So, I think I've run out of time with Xmas almost here and a few jobs around the house neglected over the past month. But the 10.6" Surface Pro 2 is in and working perfectly - I've prettied up a few off the Front End software screens, updated Garmin PC StaNav software to 2015 maps and cleaned my grubby paw marks from the trim. It's time to take a break - Wishing everyone an early "safe Holliday" and festive season :wave:

Reviving thread and hope Mike is still around.

I found this currently being sold in China for the accords.


A fully integrated android 4.4 head unit.

Aircon control in the software

car dvd player gps navigation for honda accord 7 2003-2007 Android 10.1" car Stereo Radio dual / Single Zone Climate Control
http://s.aliexpress.com/ZB3UnUbI
(from AliExpress Android)

Hi Fred, still around now and then. As you know the earlier units from China were poorly made and HVAC was not implemented correctly, hopefully this unit is a lot better, certainly seems to have a more substantial HVAC controller, shame about our exchange rate. It would be interesting to hear of anyone who has tried one, I'll take a look at a few of the USA Honda forums and see if I can find a mention of it.

BTW 8 month ago I removed the SP2 and built a Head unit using a Honda fascia, it uses the same OEM mounting and vehicle plugs. I also retained the Hardware HVAC controls along the bottom of the fascia AND the lower cubby is back in. The complete system runs from a tiny $90 Aniol mini PC that mounts to the inside rear wall of the glove box, it's so small that it leaves the complete glove box free, and only draws 4 watts, runs virtually cold.

It takes 4 seconds to remove the Mini PC - no tools needed (Velcro). I revamped and simplified the entire system. It has worked faultlessly and is so good that I would not change it. For anyone interested here is a link. http://www.mp3car.com/forum/general/show-off-your-project/-surface-pro-out-ainol-minipc-in

Cheers.

it actually only retains around 300 odd dollars in China, so i might actually get one.

interesting