as title suggests, the central locking doesn't work at all.
I bought the car for my daughter today, lovely car with this as its only unsolved issue, 361,000 klms tight feel and runs like a champ ! :D
so, got it home, done the cycling of the ignition thing with the fob, battery is good so no drama there but didn't work.
so, checked fuses, no broken fuses, all in the proper place, only one missing underneath and number 16.
Sorry the first post is an issue ! :o
Anyone experienced this ?
Also note, I have found some info that others have had drama with aftermarket stereos. This has one but the previous owner has NFI if it worked before .
Got another chance to have a look as I need to wait till she goes out , got it parked down the street :D (her birthday on Thursday and she's been home all week on holiday ) and noticed that the interior light doesn't come on when the door is opened but the light works when switched on, probably related ?
Opened up Flexi rubber cover in door jamb, no broken wires there or under dash at connector.
What car
What year
Have you checked what fuse 16 is for?, it should say on the box cover.
How do you know the keyfob battery is good?
Just cause the LED lights up does not mean much, an LED would draw much less current than a central locking transmitter.
Being an electrical issue as well it could be battery issue.
General rule of thumb, when dealing with an electrical issue, start at the battery.
Check to make sure all terminals are free of corrosion, and all the clamps are free of corrosion and are on tight, check the chassis ground connections.
You mentioned the light does not come on which would suggest the door open switch sensor is damaged in some manner, unless you get the door open warning.
The best way to test these is by removing it and testing with a multimeter on continuity mode and press the switch.
Most if not all work on a normally closed method so when the door is open, the button is pushed and the circuit is open.
Make sure the button does not stick
Found a YouTube video of a 98/00 civic which was same after new stereo installed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Grayfox
Seems a wire needs bridged between the two multi plugs behind it.
I'll check that as there's no other known issues that I can find.
The 6th gen is not like the 7th when it comes to electrics.
I cant see how a stereo would cause a the power locking to fail
I found a 7th gen workshop manual and it had nothing in it about electrics as it seems to be a cut down PDF when the original manual is a HTML based thing.
Is it possible that the fob isnt' actually the correct fob for the car?
The fobs are year specific. Any chance the previous owner has mixed up fobs/replaced fob with a random one?
What's the sticker on the back of the remote say?
possible that the actuator isnt working at all, can you hear any slight clicking indicating that its pulling the pin in the door?
depending on which civic you have bought for your daughter, you can pick them up from jaycar for 15 bucks and are easy as pie to remove. just a matter of taking the interior door skin off
Yeah, i can find nothing wrong at all. I am a heavy diesel fitter to trade so limited experience with this kinda thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Grayfox
justy seems to be some info regarding aftermarket stereos causin ginop central locking and interior light drama...i have both ! (door doesn't turn light on but it works on switch in roof).
assumed so, sticker is worn off....keys don't open central locking either but will open individual doors through lock....so i'd say it's not fob related.Quote:
Originally Posted by curtis265
all 4 doors are inop, for all 4 to go would be lottery numbers chance.Quote:
Originally Posted by RenzokukenJ
Once she gets the car tomorrow as a surprise birthday present, I'll be able to delve into it more in the driveway during daylight rather than waiting till she goes out then frantically check fuses etc in the dark. :D
I am pretty sure it's stereo related...I'll pull that stereo out and see what's what cos the car hasn't been tinkered with other than that....
Most probably if all 4 doors aren't working, I'd say either the fuses are gone, or someone has just messed up all the of the wiring and you may need to do some surgery to get everything back to normal.
I'm in the same boat, bought a 2008 civic type r, boot light doesn't work and boot doesn't seem to register it's opening... Good fun that will be to fix!
more than likely, whoever installed it may not have known a power feed from stereo is needed for remote locking or light....gotta be something stoopid..:thumbdwn:Quote:
Originally Posted by RenzokukenJ
Do you want the wiring diagrams for the bootlight and boot switch?Quote:
Originally Posted by RenzokukenJ
I have the full workshop manual for the civic hatch from 2006-2011.
I definitely do!Quote:
Originally Posted by Grayfox
These are large sized images
https://dl-web.dropbox.com/get/bootl...YfPjqj9h8WSlNA
https://dl-web.dropbox.com/get/bootl...0caZRmzxejXsrQ
This is the manual
https://www.dropbox.com/s/y5uyzkn39c...Manual.7z?dl=0
The manual not specifically for the FN2 but they would share the same wiring harness and they do share the same boot door.
You will need 7zip to extract it and you have to run the manual in Internet Explorer as the whole thing is ActiveX based.
Ballin thanks man
Got centre consol almost out this morning before we headed to qld transport for driving test .
Coildnt get fully it from what seems to be the flap control cable for the heater controls. Seems to be tight and not allowing enough slack to get to rear fascia screws. Ill have another look later when time permits.
okay...(well, not okay)...go tthe centre consol out, had to remove the two push rod clips for the heater and flaps. not too fussed , just fidgety.
new loom had been wired onto old one as normal, tape jointed but all ok so I am sure it's a home done job (i'd pay a sparky to do it properly).
so, what we have (to summarise ) is..
no interior light on door switches(any of them) but works manually on roof switch).
no central locking from fob nor key but key opens door organically.
brake light on dash is lit, fluids fine, switch to hand brake, also fine.
no blown fuses at all, swapped out the relays for central locking and still same....
there has been a hands free kit in here at some point, no sure what it was tapped into etc but no major hacking is obvious.
next thing to do, get codes from scanner and see whats what.
if all else fails, the Air con/auto spark I use will get it to chase down(and recharge AC too..).
Don't ya just love easy electrical work ? :D
Took drivers door off today and checked wiring for breaks, switches etc, all good.
Checked all door light switches....all good.
Proper head **** this thing ..
Does central locking work with the key in the door cylinder?
Yeah, see post #9Quote:
Originally Posted by curtis265
Then it would be a transmitter or receiver issue would it not?
Do you have a flip key or is it a normal key?
Normal key with a fob. Keys work fine as they have code for immobiliser. (Green key light on dash) .
Think its a power supply issue as the interior light is inop off door switches too.
multiplex unit.....
built into lower dash fuse box....arse...
Honda Part**** 38200-S5A-A31
http://honda-tech.com/acura-rsx-dc5-...ic-si-2802801/
all people with exact same issues....
apparently a recall was done on these units, maybe this was never done on this one...?
watch video if interested but more importantly, see the comments.....loads, all with same shitty issues...
hope it helps others out ! :)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdtIljAK88Y
I got some cousins up wurtulla way, usually go to the dreamtime with them good blokes
Eh unna let me know cuz I'm keen for a sniffQuote:
Originally Posted by Vvvtec
yeah bruz bring your tidda and we'll charge up get some duri happening, just gotta watch out for the gunjies this time lolQuote:
Originally Posted by RenzokukenJ
fukin dem gins distractin me met with dem dere lullis ay fuk me kunt eh heeeeQuote:
Originally Posted by Vvvtec
No ****in idea what that was fellas...:D
Yh buz