2008 8th Gen Accord 3.5L V6 Auto 100,000km service.

Hi all,

Just got our first Honda and shes a 2008 Accord 3.5L V6 Auto Luxury model with 98,000kms.
She's had all logbook servicing done to date but not the 100,000.

I've had a read through the logbook at what is required but was hoping i could get some Honda-experience'd help at what i should be looking to do.

So far i have come up with:
- Front brake pads
- Timing belt kit
- Inspect water pump
- Iridium spark plugs X 6
- Penrite HPR5 (To be used where 5w30 is needed) X 5L bottle
- Penrite Fully synthetic ATF 4L X 2 (flush the gearbox once)
- Engine oil filter

Rear brake pads look fine and cannot see any oil leaks in the engine bay or from what ive been able to see under the car. Will have it over my brothers pit at his truck centre when servicing.
Anything specific to this model of Honda that i should be looking for or should look to replace?

Would love any advice or comments

Thanks,
Glen and his extremely happy partner who now has an Accord and is rubbing it in his face whilst he drives his 3T patrol to work daily.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by shadowchild93

Hi all,

Just got our first Honda and shes a 2008 Accord 3.5L V6 Auto Luxury model with 98,000kms.
She's had all logbook servicing done to date but not the 100,000.

I've had a read through the logbook at what is required but was hoping i could get some Honda-experience'd help at what i should be looking to do.

So far i have come up with:
- Front brake pads
- Timing belt kit
- Inspect water pump
- Iridium spark plugs X 6
- Penrite HPR5 (To be used where 5w30 is needed) X 5L bottle
- Penrite Fully synthetic ATF 4L X 2 (flush the gearbox once)
- Engine oil filter

Rear brake pads look fine and cannot see any oil leaks in the engine bay or from what ive been able to see under the car. Will have it over my brothers pit at his truck centre when servicing.
Anything specific to this model of Honda that i should be looking for or should look to replace?

Would love any advice or comments

Thanks,
Glen and his extremely happy partner who now has an Accord and is rubbing it in his face whilst he drives his 3T patrol to work daily.

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8 litres of atf is good enough for a 2x2 flush not just once since you only get approx 3 litres out each time.

BTW you should be changing the atf every 40k km or less. Not the 80k stated in some manuals

Also if I remember correctly there is a transmissionfilter sitting on top somewhere.

Should be replacing that too.

For the love of god
Please do not BABY this era of V6's
The new VCM system (which deactivates the rear bank of cylinders) causing major engine bore damage, requiring a new bottom end
Keep driving it at different rpms and always make sure the oil is topped up

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Fredoops

8 litres of atf is good enough for a 2x2 flush not just once since you only get approx 3 litres out each time.

BTW you should be changing the atf every 40k km or less. Not the 80k stated in some manuals

Also if I remember correctly there is a transmissionfilter sitting on top somewhere.

Should be replacing that too.

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Thanks, will keep that in mind about the gearbox quantity of oil. I guess i will have some left over if i grab the 2 X 4L. Will definitely do the ATF swaps quite reguarly but was just not wanting to leave it until 120,000. Thanks for the advice. I had a quick look for a transmission filter but from what i found online, it looks as though the transmission filter for the V6 auto is actually inside the gearbox itself and isnt easy to get out. Might have to do a little more research into it!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jasemas

For the love of god
Please do not BABY this era of V6's
The new VCM system (which deactivates the rear bank of cylinders) causing major engine bore damage, requiring a new bottom end
Keep driving it at different rpms and always make sure the oil is topped up

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Thanks for your reply! Wont be babying it by any means of the word but i wont be thrashing it either. I'm more than happy to keep her revving when warm and more than happy to feel the effects of VTEC! A little quicker than the patrol for sure. I've read that they can use oil so as its quite new with us, i'll check oil levels regularly and make sure it isnt. (or if it is, will top it up accordingly).

I'm thinking that 5000km oil changes sound like a good idea for this type of motor and we'll either run it on 95 or 98 octane. Should i do the filter every 5 or 10 thousand kms?

Is there anything i can do to prolong the lift of the motor? I saw there was no way to deactivate the VCM. Is there anything i need to be aware of to keep the motor happy other than regular oil and filter changes and variable revs? (I guess for variable revs, as it is an auto, i could just drive manual with the paddle shifts to get the revs a little higher without having to be foot flat each time?)

Get an oil with a good dose of zinc (zddp). It coats cylinder bores to compensate for the VCM.

Penrite HPR5 is a good start

I don't see the need for a 5k oil change interval if a synthetic oil is used. Can probably stretch to 7.5k. Just keep an eye on it.

Thanks for that information on the oil with zinc! I figured i would go with Penrite HPR5 as it is what Penrite recommends to be used with this motor on their webpage and from what ive been told, Penrite seem to sell quality oils.
Is Penrite HPR5 what you would recommend to you or would you recommend something else? I can get the HPR5 at a good price through a mate at a local Auto1 so, if this will be great for it, i will use this.

Previous owner's mechanic was using Castrol Magnatec Professional 15/40 but that seems a bit too thick to me, at least when cold - Hence the reasoning to use the HPR5 from Penrite. If 5k services are better for the motor than 7.5, then i'd prefer to do that but if there would be almost no difference, im open to slightly longer oil changes.

Does filter every 10k if im servicing every 5k sound good? If i were servicing every 7.5k, would i do a filter each service or every 15k?

Filter every service.

I use Penrite myself. So it's good

15w40 is not suitable IMO.

Thanks! Will grab HPR5 for the motor and do filter each service. Will also grab Penrites ATF fully synth oil for the gearbox! Cheers

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Fredoops

Filter every service.

I use Penrite myself. So it's good

15w40 is not suitable IMO.

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What kind of ****wit uses 15w40 on a new motor

/sigh

Damn Aus mechanics and their backwards thinking
Always with their thick oil *she'll be right mate* mentality

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jasemas

What kind of ****wit uses 15w40 on a new motor

/sigh

Damn Aus mechanics and their backwards thinking
Always with their thick oil *she'll be right mate* mentality

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My thoughts exactly! Its not hard to check what oil a motor needs. This was a petrol injection workshop who apparently had won multiple awards. I'll stick with what Penrite recommend and trust myself over mechanic's advice.

You can also try penrite racing 10tenths 5w30 which has a much higher zinc content.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Fredoops

You can also try penrite racing 10tenths 5w30 which has a much higher zinc content.

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Oh yeah

Just wait til Repco have a 35/40% off Penrite oil weekend :P

I stock up

Edit Post: We are due to have one soon :P or if you have an RACV/RACW card wait til its 30% off weekend

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Fredoops

You can also try penrite racing 10tenths 5w30 which has a much higher zinc content.

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I've never heard of this before. Just had a little look though and from what i can gather, its a big step up from the normal fully synthetic range as far as performance and zinc content goes, which may be better for the high-ish revving VCM motor in our accord? From above, the extra zinc may help out the motor when the single bank of cylinders isnt running? I had a quick look at it, looks like Supercheap sell it for $76. I'm more than happy to spend that if the protection is going to be much greater. (and yeah, keeping in mind SCA have their discount weekends) (Didnt know about RAC actually! Tell me more? :D)

Misses wont drive the accord hard when she is driving it, so if the oil will help there with the zinc, then great! I on the other hand, will happily drive with the paddle shifts give it a good time

Part 2 of my most recent post, after some research.

HPR5 5w40 has 1050PPM of zinc... HPR5 is API rated at SN/CF (Which is the latest rating of API)
RACING5 5w30 has 1320PPM of zinc... RACING5 is API rated as SL/CF (Which is an older rating of API)
RACING10 10w40 has 1240PPM of zinc... RACING10 is API rated the same as HPR5 (which is the recommended oil on Penrite's website)

Would it be worth running (And can the motor actually handle on a long-term basis) the RACING10 to get the Zinc benefits, but also keep the API rating to the latest? (From research, the RACING5 exceeds the SL rating, but cannot find anywhere that proves it meets or exceeds the minimum for the later SN rating which the Accord motor may or may not require - cant find what the accord 3.5L needs). I have a feeling that the 10w40 may be too thick but, cant work out how important the rating is.

Thought you might all like to know what Penrite think on the discussion of Racing5 oil vs HPR5 for my specific Honda Accord. Please see below, looks like the Racing oil will be the oil for me :)

"The Racing 5W-30 will be fine.
Its additive package is that used to make API SN oil but because of the really high zinc level it can only claim API SL. This oil uses PAO and ester as the base, making it shear-free as the conventional polymers used to get the “multigrading” can be left out of the mix. It’s definitely the better oil."

Neither or is fine tbh. You can swap in between really. Whichever is on special lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by shadowchild93

Thought you might all like to know what Penrite think on the discussion of Racing5 oil vs HPR5 for my specific Honda Accord. Please see below, looks like the Racing oil will be the oil for me :)

"The Racing 5W-30 will be fine.
Its additive package is that used to make API SN oil but because of the really high zinc level it can only claim API SL. This oil uses PAO and ester as the base, making it shear-free as the conventional polymers used to get the “multigrading” can be left out of the mix. It’s definitely the better oil."

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Pretty sure the API spec for Accord is SL/SN
Any oil meeting the vicsocity requirements nowdays easily surpasses that rating

BTW
Repco are having 40% OFF RRP SHELL & VALVOLINE OILS THIS WEEKEND

Valvoline synpower 5w30 is a good oil with a decent dose of zddp as well

I'm using penrite premium 0w40 lol... go winter.

BTW the most recent API ratings are very cat converter friendly.

High zinc/zddp for long term reduces the effectiveness of your cat converter. Hence oils with high zddp don't get the latest API.

I already run a high flow cat so I really dgaf.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Fredoops

Valvoline synpower 5w30 is a good oil with a decent dose of zddp as well

I'm using penrite premium 0w40 lol... go winter.

BTW the most recent API ratings are very cat converter friendly.

High zinc/zddp for long term reduces the effectiveness of your cat converter. Hence oils with high zddp don't get the latest API.

I already run a high flow cat so I really dgaf.

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Reduces the effectiveness of the cat converter to stop emissions or may reduce flow through it? Regardless, if we have any issues with the exhaust, i'd be more than happy to look into getting a higher flowing exhaust for it haha

Zinc coats the honeycomb cat thingy

ah okay, good to know!