dc5r gear crunch......

Hi guys I'm about to get a dc5r however the owner says the gears are currently starting to crunch sometimes when its in reverse so I'm trying to find solutions before i go ahead and buy the car and avoid any tranny problems in the future.


Is there anyone here with experience regarding costs for the following options
am i better of getting a new gear box replaced or just rebuilt ?
how much would it be for each of the options + labour ?

I'v been reading around and a rebuilt is around $1500 or so ???
I haven't been able to find a price for a new gear box though.

or what would be the best solution for me ?

any help is appreciated.

I'm probably way off. Someone please correct me but;

Rebuild could set you back 1500+ add your time/labour to take out/refit/would you like a new lsd

'New' gearbox 2500?
Wreckers box 2200??
+ labour/time

Has PO given you any ideas on what the crunch is?

Crunching when going into reverse, or while reversing?

The former is possibly more of a clutch issue than transmission issue. The latter is definitely a worry.

There are no synchros on reverse gear, so it's not like you're changing into reverse while driving. Might be a simple case of changing oils, check clutch wear / travel, maybe even a high idle could be the culprit

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Originally Posted by Hondarally

Crunching when going into reverse, or while reversing?

The former is possibly more of a clutch issue than transmission issue. The latter is definitely a worry.

There are no synchros on reverse gear, so it's not like you're changing into reverse while driving. Might be a simple case of changing oils, check clutch wear / travel, maybe even a high idle could be the culprit

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recently began crunching slightly, sometimes, when put into reverse. Doesnt happen every time, but it happens. is what the current owner says

regardings the crunch just got a reply from the owner and he said its due to the lighten flywheel the revs drop too fast due to the lighter flywheel so he has to rev match when shifting otherwise it feels like the gears are locking you out. anyone got any experience with this ? lighter flywheel causing problems ect. ? all the other gears are fine no grind or crunch but the occasional crunch on the reverse gear.

Lightened flywheel causing crunch into reverse? Sorry but that's just crap. It can make gear changes a bit harder to get smooth, but shouldn't have any effect on reverse. What you should be thinking is did he put the clutch back together correctly? If he's pulled the flywheel to replace or machine it, has everything been assembled correctly? What clutch did he use? Is it properly adjusted?

i am the owner of that dc5r for sale. No i did not say the lightened flywheel causes the issue in reverse, i said the lightened flywheel feels like you get locked out of gear when up shifting unless i rev match in between, ie what you said "gear changes a bit harder to get smooth". Jdm yard completed all the work on this car. i bought the competition clutch and lightened flywheel from them, and they installed it along with a new oem slave and master cylinder.
I took the car back to them approximately 20xxxkm after i had this done, as this is when i felt like the issues arising, Kiet test drove it and said its most likely gearbox related, he said "it doesnt feel like clutch related".
I have all the receipts to prove the work.

Just some input

(on multiple vehicles and setups) Never had a lightweight flywheel play with my ability to shift or more likelihood of "crunching".
Crunching tends to be a gearbox issue.

Correct. Crunching when changing gears is usually worn syncros. Crunching going into reverse is more likely a dragging clutch or poor driving style.

When I said a lightened flywheel can make it harder to change gears smoothly I didn't mean baulking going into gear (again can be worn synxhros though I've seen this problem with heavy duty clutches at high rpm. In one case I saw it fixed completely by changing to a less compressible racing brake fluid). A lightened flywheel can make gear changes more jerky as revs drop more quickly on changes. That's what I meant by harder to change smoothly.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RA73DR

i am the owner of that dc5r for sale. No i did not say the lightened flywheel causes the issue in reverse, i said the lightened flywheel feels like you get locked out of gear when up shifting unless i rev match in between, ie what you said "gear changes a bit harder to get smooth". Jdm yard completed all the work on this car. i bought the competition clutch and lightened flywheel from them, and they installed it along with a new oem slave and master cylinder.
I took the car back to them approximately 20xxxkm after i had this done, as this is when i felt like the issues arising, Kiet test drove it and said its most likely gearbox related, he said "it doesnt feel like clutch related".
I have all the receipts to prove the work.

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Out of curiously, does your clutch pedal vibrate if you depress it right after the free play?? You can depress the clutch 1-2cm depending where your free play ends with your hands to feel it clearly, but normally can be felt using your foot.

My DC5R gearbox used to do same thing. It used also pop out of 3rd if i was rough. It used to crunch going into 2nd if i launched the agro.

So took me ~2 weeks in total to fix.

I think it was about $700 for clutch and 2nd hand fn2r flywheel.

I think Sam took like 2.5k for the rebuild + parts.

say about another $200 on fluids, seals, resurface, shipping, metal clutch line etc etc smallar things.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by amant02

My DC5R gearbox used to do same thing. It used also pop out of 3rd if i was rough. It used to crunch going into 2nd if i launched the agro.

So took me ~2 weeks in total to fix.

I think it was about $700 for clutch and 2nd hand fn2r flywheel.

I think Sam took like 2.5k for the rebuild + parts.

say about another $200 on fluids, seals, resurface, shipping, metal clutch line etc etc smallar things.

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Isn't that fixed with better fluid?

Fn2 gearboxes are well known to pop out of 3rd with shit/old fluid

Thought it would be the same with dc5

I have no idea what the cause was. My fluids were changed a few times. Penrite Progear 75w-90

All i know these problems were less inherent after I got it back.

Note - I rebuilt because I snapped the final drive.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by amant02

I have no idea what the cause was. My fluids were changed a few times. Penrite Progear 75w-90

All i know these problems were less inherent after I got it back.

Note - I rebuilt because I snapped the final drive.

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75w90 isn't the right fluid for Honda, it's 75w80

Tim told me why I can't remember though lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by amant02

I have no idea what the cause was. My fluids were changed a few times. Penrite Progear 75w-90

All i know these problems were less inherent after I got it back.

Note - I rebuilt because I snapped the final drive.

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snapped the final drive ?

Twice that I have fixed this issue it was from hektik roll back burnouts and or wrong/low fluid.

Which was it for you ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bennjamin

snapped the final drive ?

Twice that i have fixed this issue it was from hektik roll back burnouts and or wrong/low fluid.

Which was it for you ?

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ahhahahahahahhaahhahaahahahahahahhahahahahaahhaha

Launching with my foot down.

I know I broke it. I just didn't know why 3rd and 2nd caused me issues, cos I was told they were fine and didn't need replacing.

Im pretty sure in this but I've used 75w-90 across all my honda's box's.

I even use the same one for the STi.